Allow set and analog axis to press two buttons, based on % threshold.
Quote
For example if I wanted to use a shift button to convert a joystick into a hat switch by clicking it down.
Set the (mini-)joystick to press 2 buttons in each axis,
Example Axis 1 press button 10 if is 0 to 10% Axis 1 press button 11 if is 90 to 100%
And set (mini-)joystick push button for "shift".
Thanks Sokol1, will work great so that my thumbstick can be analog in some games, but also work as a regular hat switch.
Also suggestion for a new mmjoy would be rumble support. Even though it’s not real force feedback, a small rumble motor would be great for games that use it for approaching stalls, taking hits and shooting heavier guns.
Inline advert (2nd and 3rd post)
#4461250 - 02/13/1910:19 PMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
Seems Mega_MOZG will coopilate new version of MMjoy2 firmware, increasing support for encoders (actually 6), and ask for suggestions (in il2sturmovik.ru)
Google translated, take with a grain of salt.
Quote
Yes, nothing, somehow it was laid down when the firmware was done in those times.
in new versions of VPC (and the firmware of mmjoy2 is being developed now there) the restriction on the number of encoders has been removed altogether (a slightly different button configuration mechanism). I can rebuild the mmjoy2 update. Collect all the wishes and wishes that you want to fix / add / remove - we will think how to make a new thing.
what about some export of outputs/ like led's and so... If using shift registers here also - possible for lots of outputs.
It will be a great thing if there will be a version for the "blue pill". its an ARM architecture board which is low cost and several time faster and more capable from arduino...
Seems Mega_MOZG will coopilate new version of MMjoy2 firmware, increasing support for encoders (actually 6), and ask for suggestions (in il2sturmovik.ru)
Google translated, take with a grain of salt.
Quote
Yes, nothing, somehow it was laid down when the firmware was done in those times.
in new versions of VPC (and the firmware of mmjoy2 is being developed now there) the restriction on the number of encoders has been removed altogether (a slightly different button configuration mechanism). I can rebuild the mmjoy2 update. Collect all the wishes and wishes that you want to fix / add / remove - we will think how to make a new thing.
what about some export of outputs/ like led's and so... If using shift registers here also - possible for lots of outputs.
It will be a great thing if there will be a version for the "blue pill". its an ARM architecture board which is low cost and several time faster and more capable from arduino...
Hey all, long time no talk. Been busy with Life/work. I've got some time now and have started moving forward with updating a second TQS. I've taken hat switches from a non working FLCS and am putting two if them into the TQS (Hat switch where the range knob was and the H switch where the mouse was) (I think KBird did this and that's likely where I got the original idea from).
I'm having a problem with the switches though and would like anyone's thoughts on what the issue may be. I had to replace one of the 4 small switches in one of the hat switches. Now that I've got them back together, they seem to want to do double presses, i.e. when i'm pressing Left, it either hits left and down or left and up.
I checked on my working TQS/FLCS combo and they won't do that. They will only press in one direction, i.e. down is only down, left is only left, right is only right and up is only up. Even if I try and do a circle with any of the 4 way switches, they will only let one press happen at a time.
I know I've put the pieces of the switch back together but don't know why it's doing this. If needed I can supply pictures, but I can't have "double presses" going on....
thx
Slarti.
#4462164 - 02/20/1904:43 PMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
Sharti, I could be that your new tact switch is slightly too tall and is putting against the hat switch stem?
Also does anyone know if you can mix shift registers and button matrix? I have 32 inputs through my shift registers, but I want to add one single extra switch to my build as a shift key, and don't want to have to setup a 5th shift register for it.
#4462169 - 02/20/1905:02 PMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
I'm no expert on this, Tom maybe right, are you sure you used a simple momentary tac switch? you may have a short from the new soldering perhaps? eg a solder bridge.
How is it wired? faulty button matrix maybe? ie ghosting?
Sharti, I could be that your new tact switch is slightly too tall and is putting against the hat switch stem?
Also does anyone know if you can mix shift registers and button matrix? I have 32 inputs through my shift registers, but I want to add one single extra switch to my build as a shift key, and don't want to have to setup a 5th shift register for it.
If it's just one additional button , just wire it as a single button direct , no need for a matrix.
it's been a while since I could concern myself with my hobby. It was nearly one and a half year now. I moved to a new location, but now I have much more room for the flight simulation and cockpit building hobby
I bought a 3D printer and made a DIY-Photogrametry Scanner. I hope I can make some scans of my selfmade HOTAS and improve some things that weren't possible before. Now I can make much better buttons POVs etc. This helps a lot with the cockpit and the HOTAS systems.
Great job TomVr. I also have a lot of old HOTAS parts from the 90's and used them to make my Frankensticks. I made a F-14 throttle out of an old Suncom SFS. I also tried to do a FA-18 throttle and a lot of sticks for many fighters and helos which can be changed between my different stick-bases. I hope I could improve them now with the use of 3D printed parts, because there are many things, which aren't perfect at all
All the buttons show up properly in the hardware section, but when I assign them, they don't work in windows game controller. Assigned hat switch works fine.
EDIT: I brain farted and had them all set to switch mode instead of blank.
Also the AXIS to Button ranges work, but the axis buttons just stay on when activated, and don't turn back off.
Last edited by TomVR; 02/24/1907:33 PM.
#4462836 - 02/24/1908:25 PMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: TomVR]
All the buttons show up properly in the hardware section, but when I assign them, they don't work in windows game controller. Assigned hat switch works fine.
EDIT: I brain farted and had them all set to switch mode instead of blank.
Also the AXIS to Button ranges work, but the axis buttons just stay on when activated, and don't turn back off.
Have you tried the newer firmwares? the latest has a bug or two I found so I use 2016-8-18
It is the Original Release I believe and hasn't been updated in 4 years? see the link about , use Chrome to auto translate the Russian , I think there are about 8 -10 versions?
20161101 is the one I had issues with 20160818upd1 is the one I use now.
Sokol1 I know (post #4352621) is quite old but after using my button box for some time for the pots for trimming aircraft I certainly now understand your comment. A multi turn would improve trim so much by reducing sensitivity!
Originally Posted by Sokol1
What is advisable use for trim is multi-turn - ideally 3 turn type pot, for allow fine adjust of trim. This kind of pot use gears to reduce the knob rotation over pot axis, allowing the desired precision.
The multi turn pots are a bit expensive but I will go that way way if necessary. Just wondering if any other possible method/s to adjust axis. My thought is that TLE5010 would not improve the trimming sensitivity over a pot?
I know this may be a silly question but could a trim axis be controlled by an encoder. In my mind the answer is no (I have no technical knowledge for that deduction) but I thought I might just check with the more knowledgeable people.
#4463445 - 03/01/1901:07 AMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]