Ok I've switched to version 20160818upd1 and that seems to work better. I erased the Arduino, threw a quick program together and ... I'm getting button presses!!! Now I just need to map them all properly.
#4381858 - 09/28/1701:48 PMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
- how to get rid of MMJ-reset thing? I have renamed my joystick to B-X and it is visible as B-X in Control Panel/Devices and Printers, but when I try to see the properties (settings of game controllers) it is still recognized as MMJ-reset. The same for games...
How to overcome it? In my laptop B-X is shown in both places.
Last edited by sunrrrise; 09/28/1701:48 PM.
#4381876 - 09/28/1703:00 PMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: sunrrrise]
- how to get rid of MMJ-reset thing? I have renamed my joystick to B-X and it is visible as B-X in Control Panel/Devices and Printers, but when I try to see the properties (settings of game controllers) it is still recognized as MMJ-reset. The same for games...
How to overcome it? In my laptop B-X is shown in both places.
Try using USBDeview to remove/uninstall ALL instances of the joystick from the Computer (registry) ...turn on the option to see all devices even if not attached 1st , you should do this if you ever change the VID and or PID too.
Ok I've switched to version 20160818upd1 and that seems to work better. I erased the Arduino, threw a quick program together and ... I'm getting button presses!!! Now I just need to map them all properly.
Great news .. so just a firmware issue then? or did you do some rewiring too? curoius cos my Micros and pro micros arrived and i hope to have time to do my second set soon.
A while back i thought Mega_Mozg was working on a new Firmware but I havent heard anything more in a few months ...anyone heard anything, perhaps on other Forums?
- how to get rid of MMJ-reset thing? I have renamed my joystick to B-X and it is visible as B-X in Control Panel/Devices and Printers, but when I try to see the properties (settings of game controllers) it is still recognized as MMJ-reset. The same for games...
How to overcome it? In my laptop B-X is shown in both places.
Is what I post just above:
"About VID/PID, every time you change device name - that "MyJollyJoy"... is need erase the previous VID/PID from WIndows register.
This don't prevines MMjoy2 work and their use in games, but Windows Games Control return a error if you try access the device there."
If you change the device name, change de VID/PID too, or erase the previous name from Windows register. For Windows device name are tied to VID/PID number.
#4381936 - 09/28/1708:13 PMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
Yeah, I did that but each time I remove all devices by VID/PID I was still seing MMJOY-reset. Then I saved all desired config to file, remove devices, replug joystick and upload configuration directly from the file. I don't know why but it helped Thanks!
I just discovered that I can use 14bit resolution for TLE5010! It is strange cause I can calibrate and set center in MMJOY on ~8196, but for Windows the cursor was in the corner. I had to recalibrate using Windows's tool. Strange, anyone else faced similiar problem?
#4381962 - 09/28/1710:40 PMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: sunrrrise]
- how to get rid of MMJ-reset thing? I have renamed my joystick to B-X and it is visible as B-X in Control Panel/Devices and Printers, but when I try to see the properties (settings of game controllers) it is still recognized as MMJ-reset. The same for games...
How to overcome it? In my laptop B-X is shown in both places.
Try saving with poll at "-"
#4382003 - 09/29/1703:25 AMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Kb1rd1]
A while back i thought Mega_Mozg was working on a new Firmware but I havent heard anything more in a few months ...anyone heard anything, perhaps on other Forums?
At the Warthunder forum mega_mozg wrote that the project is actively developing within the framework of VIRPIL products. I think that MMJOY2 will only benefit from this.
#4382326 - 10/01/1701:48 AMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
1 When using TLE5010 sensors and placing the magnets on bolts does it matter the metal in the bolts?
Currently have 304 Stainless and there is still a slight magnetic pull.
2 When gluing magnet to bolt how accurate does one need to be in placing magnet in centre?
3 It is I guess possible to have a slightly bit more glue under 1 side of magnet than other and this would cause the magnet to be very very slightly tilted. Would this be much of a problem?
#4382452 - 10/02/1708:46 AMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Barra]
Czary
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 46
Lodz, PL
Hi, as I've made my DIY rudder based on MMjoy2 here is what i know : 1- I've placed magnet on the M10 stainless bolt- it works fine. 2- My accuracy on placing magnet is within 0.5 mm. 3- I've used heat shrink tube with glue when placing magnet on the end of the bolt - so when I heated up the tube it shrinked all way around, placing magnet at the center. Diagram show my magnet mount. http://simhq.com/forum/tmp/4797.png
Last edited by Czary; 10/04/1712:37 PM.
#4382526 - 10/02/1702:59 PMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Venor]
A while back i thought Mega_Mozg was working on a new Firmware but I havent heard anything more in a few months ...anyone heard anything, perhaps on other Forums?
At the Warthunder forum mega_mozg wrote that the project is actively developing within the framework of VIRPIL products. I think that MMJOY2 will only benefit from this.
Thanks for the report Venor , lets hope he still has time to develop MMjoy2 as well.
1 When using TLE5010 sensors and placing the magnets on bolts does it matter the metal in the bolts?
Currently have 304 Stainless and there is still a slight magnetic pull.
2 When gluing magnet to bolt how accurate does one need to be in placing magnet in centre?
3 It is I guess possible to have a slightly bit more glue under 1 side of magnet than other and this would cause the magnet to be very very slightly tilted. Would this be much of a problem?
Hi Barra , no pics , so I don't believe you are building rudders .... how will I build some if you don't do a detailed Tutorial ?
1. gluing the magnets to the metal pot shaft in my FLCS didn't seem to matter , but using metal washers as spacers on the shaft seemed to , i think it was cos the metal washers could rotate though ( still spin) but I changed them out for plastic/nylon spacers anyway.
2. didnt seem to need to be that accurate, but I like the heatshrink idea above , once calibrated in MMjoy it seems to work just fine here
3. I don't think I was that care about the magnets , re a bit more glue on on side and all seems well , I think my magnets are about 3-4 mm from the Sensor chip but I didnt measure it.
[quote=Barra] Hi Barra , no pics , so I don't believe you are building rudders .... how I will I build some if you don't do a detailed Tutorial ?
1. gluing the magnets to the metal pot shaft in my FLCS didn't seem to matter , but using metal washers as spacers on the shaft seemed to , i think it was cos the metal washers could rotate though ( still spin) but I changed them out for plastic/nylon spacers anyway.
2. didnt seem to need to be that accurate, but I like the heatshrink idea above , once calibrated in MMjoy it seems to work just fine here
3. I don't think I was that care about the magnets , re a bit more glue on on side and all seems well , I think my magnets are about 3-4 mm from the Sensor chip but I didnt measure it.
I've taken some pics but not collated them yet.
Whole thing a lot heavier than set out to be but had a lot of help from amateur engineer neighbour who likes steel. So beggars cannot be choosers. Currently set magnets with gaff tape to test and are only about 1mm from magnet.
Hot melt glue that I had did not want to stick to bolt well so may have to go for araldite glue and it does not go off as quick.
Thanks
#4382741 - 10/03/1706:02 AMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Barra]
[quote=Barra] Hi Barra , no pics , so I don't believe you are building rudders .... how I will I build some if you don't do a detailed Tutorial ?
1. gluing the magnets to the metal pot shaft in my FLCS didn't seem to matter , but using metal washers as spacers on the shaft seemed to , i think it was cos the metal washers could rotate though ( still spin) but I changed them out for plastic/nylon spacers anyway.
2. didnt seem to need to be that accurate, but I like the heatshrink idea above , once calibrated in MMjoy it seems to work just fine here
3. I don't think I was that care about the magnets , re a bit more glue on on side and all seems well , I think my magnets are about 3-4 mm from the Sensor chip but I didnt measure it.
I've taken some pics but not collated them yet.
Whole thing a lot heavier than set out to be but had a lot of help from amateur engineer neighbour who likes steel. So beggars cannot be choosers. Currently set magnets with gaff tape to test and are only about 1mm from magnet.
Hot melt glue that I had did not want to stick to bolt well so may have to go for araldite glue and it does not go off as quick.
Thanks
lightly sand the bolt end so the glue/epoxy has something to "key" to and make sure it is de-greased eg with 99% alcohol before trying it permanently.
The light sanding may help , it gives the epoxy something to grip onto , and is the usual advice for getting 5min epoxy to stick to metal, JB Weld might work too but I think it has metal powder in it too ? so not sure if that would effect the magnetic field or not?
100% silicon should work too , but you'll need to wait overnight for it to cure before moving anything.... it sticks to Chrome/Ali etc at work so should work for that too...
Been off the grind for a few days with PC troubles. Now got an all new one and a lot less dollars:(!
With a new board (PC) I am assuming that I need to reset the existing Pro Micro that works a button box. I am of this opinion as a connection could end up with new Com port.
Am I correct in thinking that I need to open up box and do a reset?
Edited: Also Just discovered I may have to move to Windows 10 as Microsoft (security updates) not supporting Windows 7 in latest 7th Gen CPU. Does anyone know if Windows 10 and latest CPU should be a problem and if I need to do anything special?
Last edited by Barra; 10/07/1711:18 AM.
#4383744 - 10/07/1708:31 PMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
I would not of thought a new PC (motherboard) would be an issue as far as needing to reset the pro micro as everything is done via USB which is usually pretty forgiving...
I have several computers here and all are fine with Win10 ( it's basically win7 with a fancy new GUI Front end) and it's I think still possible to get Win10 free through the assistive technolgies webpage , though I am not sure what hjoops you need to jump through ..if any to do it. Even my oldest computer (P45 Q6600...8 years old?) , has Win 10 , though it is dual booted with WinXP still too. so you may or may not need the new CPU too? I have only heard vague rumours of what you have mentioned , but I find TenForums is a good place for help and advice if needed for Win10.
My concern on USB was that you add the port number to the MMJoy2 file for upload to board. I don't know much about PC's but figured that when you plug the board into a new PC it may use a different port which is then different to the loaded file detail?
Edited
I hooked up button box and tested it seems to be working ok on new 7th board and CPU - still working on Windows 7.