Need a good router for Xbox and PC gaming. Recommendations??

Been having a lot of trouble with my internet connection lately. Replaced my modem from Comcast and I'm hoping that'll solve the issue but they seem to think the router is the problem. I have a Cisco/Linksys wireless N router and I'm looking to replace it with a dual band, perhaps with the newer AC technology.

My priority is Xbox Live and PC Gaming (both directly connected), second priority is web surfing for my daughters and wife, wirelessly.

Any recommendations?

ps - Oh, and I need something super easy to setup. I know less about routers/networking than I know about women.

Linksys model WRT610N

OR OTHER SIMILAR MODELS THAT ARE MADE FOR THE xBOX 360, MEANING THEY COVER ALL THE BANDS, opps cap lock... usually says made for consoles or xbox on it or has a sticker.

If you want to go AC, expect to drop some bucks. One of the best is the ASUS ASUS RT-AC66U:
http://www.amazon.com/RT-AC66U-Dual-Band...rds=asus+router

Dual band (simultaneous, unlike some where you choose one or the other). I bought the model without AC and LOVE it:
http://www.amazon.com/RT-N66U-Dual-Band-...rds=asus+router
Also no issues with 2 360's online at the same time, right out of the box. Pretty good parental controls, but not as good as my old beloved Dlink DGL-4500.
Both of the Asus models are simultaneous dual band.
I won't have another Cisco/Linksys, just never had good luck with them lasting. DLink I also like.

Thanks for the input. Last night I bought the Linksys Smart Wi-Fi Router (EA6300). At this point it's "insurance" as I haven't installed it yet.

Since swapping out the modem I haven't had any disconnects (that I'm aware of). I'll keep this new router in the box for awhile longer and see if the issue re-appears.

This Linksys is an "AC" 1200 with simultaneous Dual Band. Should be good.

But, I know the Asus models have been highly recommended as well. They had an Asus model at Best Buy. It was right next to the Linksys on the shelf but it wasn't an "AC" and it was the same price as the Linksys ($149.99).

If I don't get any disconnects over the next few days I'll probably just return the router.

My current router is a Linksys WRT160N V3. It's mostly been ok but there is one odd thing about it. If I try to power cycle it by unplugging it from the back of the router it'll often take over 100 attempts of plugging it back in before it powers up properly. That's not an exaggeration, it literally took OVER 100 attempts of un-plugging it and re-plugging it to get it to work after power cycling it yesterday. Very strange and extremely annoying. Once it's up and running it seems fine but, sheesh!

Hi Leemz,

Personally, I would have gone with an ASUS model, but to each his own. I admit I haven't tested any of these on an XBOX, but the Linksys dual-bands I've used with internal antennas have mediocre range.

Can I recommend that you put your router on a large cooling pad? I think it will extend the longevity.

Yup, made up my mind. After reviewing the ASUS RT-N66U, that's the one I've settled on. I'll return the Linksys a.s.a.p.

The reviews I've read and watched won me over with the performance and interface. I was always lost trying to find my way around in the menus of my Linksys. The ASUS seems much easier to navigate.

Plus, ASUS has their own YouTube channel with a lot of videos for setting up their routers.

Thanks for the input!

You should be aware that range of AC is lower than N, so you might lose wifi where you would normally manage a connection.

The Asus router is not AC and it has 3 external antennas so, if anything, I'm expecting an increase in range (for my wife's iPad and my daughters' laptops). I'm hard-wired with my PC and Xbox so I should be fine either way.

I'm going to return the Linksys and get the Asus but I'll do it NEXT weekend. Tax-free weekend in Massachusetts next week so I'll save a few bucks!

Ok, so I got the new ASUS RTN66R router all set up. Pretty easy. Haven't had any disconnects (knock on wood).

But, I have no idea how to set it so that I make sure my PC and Xbox use the 5G band while everything else (iPads, laptops, phones, etc.) uses the 2.4.

Can anyone step me through it?

Glad you like it! I like how easy it is to navigate. My DGL-4500 had even more options, but wasn't very friendly to get around on. This one gives me full bars on the far end of the house where the 4500 was usually at 1 or 2 due to interference from the kitchen (which is between the bedroom and router). No issues with Live on 2 360's, didn't have to set up port triggering or anything.

You'll set up 2 different networks, the 2.4GHz and the 5GHz. They'll have different names, so just remember which is which, like this:
DEAsafehouse03
DEAsafehouse05

-On the left, click Network Map
-Then, on the right you'll see a box with 2 tabs, 2.4GHz and 5GHz. It's on 2.4 to begin with. Set up the SSID and key for the 2.4 network, then hit the 5 tab and set that one up.

Then on your devices that can use 5, set them up on the correct network, they'll see both when searching for a network.

Thanks, RK.

I've done that, but how do I tell my PC and/or Xbox to use the 5G network? Both are hardwired to the router with a LAN cable. Does the dual band thing only work for wireless?

Sorry if that's a completely newb question. I consider myself reasonably savvy when it comes to computers but the networking end of things is like learning to speak Klingonese.

If you're using a wire, wireless frequencies would be irrelevant, don't you think?

The differences between the 2 freqs are 2.4GHz has greater range/penetration of obstacles, but doesn't go as fast while 5GHz supports faster speeds but is more easily blocked.

If your PC and Xbox are close enough to the router to use a patch cable, you could easily set them up to use 5GHz instead. However, there's realistically no reason to do that unless the wire is failing or runs through an area where it looks ugly or whatever.



The Jedi Master

New firmware from last Wednesday:
http://support.asus.com/download.aspx?SL...aPRqqZuiBsRlS5W

Yeah, if you're wired, then the wireless network doesn't apply to you. If you have other devices that you DO use on the wireless, if that device doesn't support 5GHz then that SSID won't show up. Not all are capable of 5GHz.
My firmware is a few updates behind, but not sure it's worth doing until I see an issue. I'll probably hold off.

So.....if I'm wired with a patch cable, am I automatically getting the best speed possible on this router or is there something I need to do ensure it? PC is like, literally, less than 2ft from my router and my Xbox is about 6ft. away. It just never made sense to me to use the wireless for my PC and Xbox because of the proximity but I need the wireless for the iPad and laptops.

I'm still getting the occasional disconnect but it doesn't seem as bad as it was with my Linksys.

You'll get the best speed based on the abilities of the router and devices. Your laptop or tablet might have a network card slower than the router is capable of. Same for the pc and xbox. That router won't be the weak link though.

I don't think I've ever seen a device with say a 10Mbps Ethernet but an 11g or n wireless connection that let it work faster. Almost all have a 100Mbps Ethernet connector, which is fast enough practically speaking. Yet wireless generally tops out at 54Mbps unless you're lucky with your 11n connection.

I personally bypassed my router for my PC because regardless of using wire or wireless it won't go faster than about 28Mbps, but my cable modem gives me 60 if I don't use it.

Besides, wireless is vulnerable to interference all the time, while a wire is far more hardened. It's better to use a wire unless you can't reach or there are cosmetic considerations.



The Jedi Master

My netbook connects at 320 Mbps, but that's really only beneficial for moving files on my LAN.
I got a usb wireless adapter for my pc when it's in the bedroom, but I think that one tops around 100-150 Mbps.

Ok, so I got my new Asus RT-N66R router and it all seems to be working fine.

However, for the first time ever, I'm trying to host an rFactor race with a friend.

The rFactor documentation tells me I need to open ports 34397(UDP) and 34447(TCP). But, being the complete newb that I am, I have NO idea how to do this.

For me, IT/networking stuff is like trying to understand the writings of a Klingon with dyslexia.

Can anyone tell me how to open these ports either through my router or through the Windows firewall (or does it need to be through both)?

Access the router by IP address (default: 192.168.1.1).
Default user: admin
Default password: admin

Go to the WAN tab on the left, then virtual server/port forwarding tab at the top.
Enable port forwarding.
Fill in the ports "34397, 34447" no quotes of course, local IP (the pc you're playing on), select "both" for protocol and then Add. Then Apply at the bottom.

Check the drop down for the pre-filled in games for an example if you need.


If you don't know your gateway IP and IP of the pc, then open a command prompt (on 7, just type CMD in the search box on the start menu).
type, no quotes, "ipconfig"

Find default gateway, that is your router and it's IP address. Use that to open the interface.
Find IPv4 Address, that is the IP of the pc you're currently on.

Thanks RK. I was able to follow your instructions perfectly.

Unfortunately, it still doesn't work.

When I try to host a race, it let's me into the game but my car doesn't show. Even if I use a stock car and a stock track.

Any chance there's something with the Windows Firewall that's preventing it from working? Should I disable the Windows Firewall?

As with all things regarding networking, I'm stumped yet again. Ugh.

Easiest way to test is to just turn it off. Since this is with someone you know, I'd do that.
Otherwise, check the list and if you don't see it, add it manually:
Control Panel\System and Security\Windows Firewall\Allowed Programs

Might have to ask an rFactor expert, I don't know much about it. Kind of sounds like you're running a server only.
If your friend is able to connect, it doesn't sound like a firewall issue.

Hi Leemz,

Findports.com says that you also need to open ports 34297 for both TCP & UDP.

Yes, you will also need to open these ports in your Windows Firewall AND in your router. I don't know what version of windows you're using, but this guide will give you the general idea for how to open ports in Windows firewall:

http://www.rfactor-league.com/rFactor/ConfigPorts.html

I also respectfully recommend that you disable these ports once you're done playing.

Well, for some reason that is beyond my understanding, it "appears" to be working no. I didn't do anything differently.

I say "appears" because I haven't actually had my friend attempt to join yet but it does let me create an online game and I can join and race in it myself with AI. I couldn't even do that before. Hoping to test it with my friend sometime this weekend.

@Phoenix,
I think Port 34297 is just for LAN play (at least according to the rFactor documentation).

But, thanks for the link, I'll check it out.

I think I might have figured it out (sort of).

It worked when I was logged in as "Admin". When I logged into my normal account, it went back to not working.

But, my normal account has full admin privileges so I don't really understand why it won't work when I'm logged into that account.

Anyway, I'll try to test it for real online with a friend today.

Well if it does not work I'll be glad to help you through getting it setup.. Also there are 3 ports you need to open for Online play in that link for the firewall.. IF you need a Port Open it will NOT be for LAN Play as you need NO ports for LAN Play as it is all inside your Own network..



http://www.rfactor-league.com/rFactor/ConfigPorts.html

Best thing to make sure the Ports are Open is to DL and Run "Simple Port Tester" Please Don't use thos online port checkers.. Go here and DL and Run this simple port tester:


http://www.pcwintech.com/simple-port-tester


When you test the 3 ports for rFactor and they come back as Open you can almost be sure it will work Online.. IF the ports come back as open and your friend has trouble connecting it is probally on his end..

Testing your Ports eliminates you as being the problem in the network.. I can be on TS3 if you want to get walked through it..


EDIT: Her e are the ports Required for rFactor:

rFactor 34447 TCP .... 34297, 34397 UDP

I haven't used rfactor in years, but IIRC some settings are in the profile, not the main directory. So if you run as a different user, it doesn't matter if you have full rights because the game will be looking in the wrong place.




The Jedi Master