Well, I have no idea when part two of my review will be published (and I'll probably get in trouble with the boss) but I'll just add it here in the replies...
Saitek X-55 Rhino H.O.T.A.S. Review Part Two-Saitek X-55 Rhino H.O.T.A.S. Flight Control System
Preface: This is part two of a review of the Saitek X-55 Rhino H.O.T.A.S. not a comparison to any other HOTAS system.
As previously stated in my earlier portion of this review, the new drivers and H.U.D. software were to be updated and include a calibration application. For Saitek, this is new! You can get the new drivers and H.U.D. software
HERE . Previously the end user would have to “calibrate” their controller using Windows Calibration “Wizard”. The Windows Calibration “Wizard” is, in my opinion anything but a “Wizard”.
Now that the drivers and H.U.D. have been updated to include the calibration application, I will take a more in-depth look at how to calibrate the stick and throttle quadrant. I will also go over some of the technical data for both the stick, and throttle quadrant I may have missed. I will also provide my gaming experience in the following games/flight sims:
• Flight Simulator X With Acceleration Pack
• DCS A-10 C
• Flaming Cliffs 2 (A-10 A)
• IL2 1946 (patched to v4.12m)
• Strike Fighters Project 2
• Strike Fighters Project 1
• Combat Flight Simulator 2
I will use each centering spring (red, yellow, blue and green), for the stick and, no spring. I will attempt to explain how it F.E.E.L.s in each of the sims. That said, as I stated earlier, I find that the red spring (shortest) is more to what I’m used to F.E.E.L.ing (CH Products FighterStick). Your mileage may vary.
Calibration Steps: Calibrating the stick:
The stick has hall sensors that can be reset with the new calibration routine. Simply go to the settings page in the H.U.D., select the Stick, and click CALIBRATE AXES as seen below. Both axes will calibrate and center the stick.
Calibrating the throttle quadrant:Saitek, with the release of a calibration application for the stick, still depends on the Windows Calibration “Wizard”. The Windows Calibration “Wizard” however, will not calibrate the mini-joystick as it is not seen in the Windows Calibration “Wizard” as an axis (X or Y) to be calibrated. You can however, “calibrate” the X (left throttle) and Y (right throttle) axis, both rotaries on the right throttle handle, and, both rotaries on the base. You can access the Calibration “Wizard” by going to: Control Panel\Hardware and Sound\Devices and Printers. From there you can select a controller to calibrate. Or, if you have FSX installed, you can access the “Wizard” from there too. With that said, let’s go through the calibration steps for the throttle quadrant…
Once opening the Device Calibration Wizard, click next to continue. Set your throttles to 50% (marked on the throttles) and click next.
DO NOT move your throttle handles around in circles as the “Wizard” tells you to. It is a good idea to click the Display raw data box to eliminate any guess work in calibrating the position of the throttles. Move them fore and aft their full range (0-1032 raw data). Center them at 511-512 and click next. The next two axes to calibrate are the rotary axes on the right throttle. Click next…
Rotate the top rotary (Z Axis) all the way up, and all the way down, click next.
Move the bottom rotary (X Rotation) all the way up, all the way down. Next are the two rotaries (RTY 3 and RTY 4) on the right side of the base of the throttle quadrant. Click next.
Rotate RTY 3 all the way through its range, and click next.
Rotate RTY 4 all the way through its range and click next.
After calibrating RTY 4 and clicking next, click Finish. Now you can test what you’ve calibrated. This concludes the calibration of the throttle quadrant.
Technical:Throttle Quadrant:
The throttle quadrant has an array of toggle switches (3) along the aft portion of the base of the quadrant and the Mode (1-3) switch. The mode switch is just that, a hardware mode switch and selects each hardware mode by turning to M1-M2-M3. You can set up programming in each mode for each button, switch position or, HAT position. Typically, programmed modes are: Navigation, Air to Air, and Air to Ground. Along the right side of the throttle quadrant there are four toggle switches and two rotary dials. Each of the switches is momentary and is spring loaded back to their center position. Each switch moves forward and aft. Each HAT can be programmed as an eight or four way HAT. On the left throttle there is a two position “switch” and a scroll wheel. The locking mechanism for the two throttles is on the left throttle. On the right throttle, there are two rotaries with two buttons (one for each rotary), two HATs, a mini-joystick/mouse, a sliding switch (SBK), and three buttons (two forward and one just above the mini-joystick). The two rotaries on the right throttle have center detents. Neither throttle have an idle, or afterburner detent. On the left side of the base, there is a throttle tension adjustment.
Stick:
The stick itself is detachable as previously mentioned in the first part of my review. Removal of the stick allows for the changing of the spring centering tension using one of the four springs supplied, or no spring at all. With the ability to remove and replace the stick this MAY lead Saitek to produce other types of stick handles (F-15, A-10, P51…). We shall see. On the forward portion there is a pinky switch, a pinky button and a trigger (single stage). On the left, there is a single button. At the top, there are two HATs (H1 and H2) that can be programmed as both eight and four way HATs. There is a point of view HAT, and (for me) a weapon release button. On the right there is a single button accessible using the index finger just above the trigger. If there are no rudder pedals present in your arsenal of gaming human interface devices the stick can also twist and perform the YAW (rudder) function. Or, it can be un-programmed to twist in the H.U.D. Un-programming the stick does not mechanically stop the stick from twisting. It does however; remove any input if inadvertently twisted during flight or ground operations.
How does flying F.E.E.L. with the following spring? No spring:
As you may imagine, there is no centering spring tension. There is no tactile reference to center of the X and Y axis of the stick. This does not affect the spring tension for the twist function of the stick. I found flying with no spring tension, awkward. At no point during flight could I just, let go of the stick. Aircraft in FSX I flew were: Bell 206 Jet Ranger, AH1W Cobra, F/A 18C Hornet, and Piper Cub. I specifically flew the two helicopters because no spring tension is said to be more user friendly to flying helicopters for me, not so much. Flying fixed wing aircraft, as stated at no time could I center the stick, in flight, and let it go. Aircraft I flew in DCS A-10, well, I flew the A-10 C with similar results. I found flying Flaming Cliffs 2 (A-10 A), same results. I found flying IL2 1946 (F4U Corsair and P-38E Lightning), same results. Flying the F4N Phantom in Strike Fighters 1 and 2 without spring tension, not fun either. I found flying CFS 2 (F4 U Corsair), same results. Overall impression flying without a spring installed, not impressed and would not recommend flying without a spring installed.
Red spring: As stated, the red spring is more to what I’m used to F.E.E.L.ing when I fly with my CH Products FighterStick. It has a F.E.E.L.ing of being light and precise with a tactile F.E.E.L. for the center of the X and Y axes. All aircraft flown (mentioned above) were much (in my opinion) easier to control. And, I could take my hand off the stick, take a swig of my coffee, beer… and go back to flying.
Yellow spring: Now things are getting a wee bit stiffer and I have to work at moving the X and Y axes off center. Not as precise and a definite tactile F.E.E.L. for center.
Blue spring: Much more stiff and a lot less precise due to me having to fight the stick wanting to position itself at center.
Green spring: Continuing to use the green spring may replace my daily regime of weight lifting. Using the green spring I found to be a lot of work to move the stick off center in either of the axes. There is most definitely a tactile F.E.E.L. at the center of the two axes. Again, I found myself fighting the stick to position it precisely. Those of you that have flown with a Cougar or the X-65F may be more accustomed to flying with the green spring.
Game Controller Options:
Once you have a profile for a game loaded and the profile is assigned, you will want to go into your controller settings for that game and assign the axes accordingly…
FSX with Acceleration Pack-Assign the throttle axes…
Once the throttle axes are assigned, you will want to insure the throttle sensitivities are set to 100% this will insure that 100% thrust (afterburner in aircraft that have afterburner) can be achieved...
DCS A-10 C-Flaming Cliffs 2 (A-10A)-IL2 1946 (patched to v4.12m)-Strike Fighters Project 1-Strike Fighters 2-Combat Flight Simulator 2-Stick Assignments:
Throttle Assignments:
As stated, your mileage may vary. This concludes my review of the Saitek X-55 Rhino H.O.T.A.S.