1:32nd scale Lloyd C.V

Hi all,
The build of the Junkers J.1 is coming to a close.
So next up is the 1:32nd scale resin/3D printed Lloyd C.V from 'Lukgraph'.

On October the 4th, 1917, Feldpilot (Zugsfuhrer) Adolph Wiltsch and his Observer Roman Schmidt were flying Lloyd C.V Serial No: 46.01 from Flik 13 on the Russian Front.
They were attacked by three Russian ‘Sopwith’ type aircraft.
They managed to evade these attackers and Schmidt managed to shoot down one in flames.
This was Schmidt’s third aerial victory.

Mike

You're full of obscure surprises bagger. I've never knew the Welsh built aircraft but I'm glad to see it.

Actually it was initially going to be called the Evans C.V, part of the TAFF (Tactical Air Fighter Force).
It wasn't very successful though as it had a lot of leeks.

Mike

What a strange looking machine! What's that over the top wing? It looks like a fuel tank to me but I cannot fathom why they would put it there...?

As always, I'm thoroughly enjoying following your builds Mike. Your attention to detail always leaves my jaw hanging open.

Cheers!

As far as I am aware gents' - a machine gun was mounted in that coffin-shaped box above the top wing, on the Lloyd (not to be confused with fuel tanks). The Hansa-Brandenburg D.I also had such a strange gun-mount contraption.

Cheers all & happy flying with original gun mounts,
Von S

Yes it's a Type II VK gun canister.
A fuel tank was fitted instead of the gun canister, but only to the series 46 aircraft,
The aircraft had a tendency to side slip and enter a spin.
Eventually it was relegated to the training role,

Mike

Hi all,
Having completed the basic chapters for the Lloyd C.V build log, I've found a few bits that will need adding.

Addition lower wing support rods.
Increased depth of support rods in upper wings.
Cockpit cross bracing wires.
Pilot cockpit control rods and wires etc.
Pilot cockpit flight control cables.

Plus the following.


Mike

Hi all,
The six kit supplied 3D printed exhaust pipes are not chamfered at the ends and not bored out internally.
Also, when fitted, the exhaust pipes should be angled slightly rearwards, which the kits pipes are not.
Therefore, I discarded the kit pipes and replaced them with rod and rubber tube.

The two supplied 3D printed halves of the cooling pipe are intended to be butt joined to the engine and to each other. This is a weak method of joining parts.
Therefore I cut out and replaced the larger diameter portion of the front pipe and replaced it with Brass 1.4 mm diameter tube.
The ends of the pipe were drilled and pinned into the engine, using 0.3 mm diameter Brass rod,

Mike

Hi all,
My assumptions for how the engine cooling system worked are:

The engine driven water pump on the lower, rear of the engine, supplied water to the six engine cylinders.
This supply was pumped through a pipe interconnected to the lower right of the cylinders.
The water flowed up inside the cooling jacket of each cylinder and flowed out into the the return in the camshaft housing.
From there it flowed through the external forward pipe over the camshaft housing and into the base of the radiator.
It was then drawn around the inside of the radiator housing then down through the radiator to be drawn back to the water pump through the external rear pipe.

The external overhead cooling pipe supplied in the kit is in two parts and joined together.
The radiator just sits on the top of this pipe.
However, it seems this is not correct as can be seen from the following photographs taken at the time.
The supply to and the return from the radiator are separate pipes, which given the above would make sense.

Mike

Hi all,
I decided to modify the radiator pipes to better represent those fitted to the actual aircraft.
The 3D printed rear pipe in the kit was discarded and a replacement made from 1.0 mm diameter rod with a 90 degree bend in the radiator end.
A hole was drilled into the water pump on the rear of the engine and also into the underside of the radiator.
The forward facing extension to the pipe was added with 1.0 mm diameter rod and 1.2 mm diameter tube.
The forward 3D printed pipe in the kit was modified with a 1.2 mm diameter end tube and 1.0 mm diameter 90 degree bent rod.
A 1.4 mm diameter tube was cut and fitted to the pipe stub on the top, front of the camshaft housing.
A hole was drilled for this pipe in the underside of the radiator.
Although dry fitted for now, it can all be added after the fuselage, with engine, has been closed up,

Mike

A masterful understatement bagger perhaps missed by some. It saddens me to see the continuing saga of these incompetent kit makers forcing you into unplanned historically accurate corrections. It's a testament to your character that you continue enthusiastically without complaint. I dip my trackir cap to you and look forward to the completion of yet another fascinating project. The Quirk's a hard act to follow but ....

Hi all,
The basic engine is nearly finished.
Just the ignition leads to add.
The control rods, pipes and exhaust pipes will be added later in the build.
As usual, painting a complete 3D printed engine is not that easy.
Personally I'd prefer to paint parts then assemble the engine, but that's the way 3D printing is taking us,

Mike

Hallo Mike,

a short question:
I see in the panel-picture above a gauge "bank indicator". I was surprised, because I did believe, that this gauge was developed between WW1 und WW2. Is it an error of mine?

Greetings

Good spot.
I think the illustrator took a bit of 'poetic license' with that illustration.
Although bubble indicators were is use, certainly not the modern type illustrated,

Mike

Hi all,
The basic engine is now complete.
I've added the ignition leads, spark advance and throttle control rods and other pipes.

Mike

Hi all,
The fuselage components have been prepared for assembly.
The wood finish is 'Tamiya' Dark Yellow (XF60) over painted with Windsor & Newton’ Griffin (Alkyd) Burnt Umber oil paint.
The ammunition drum is a spare from a 'Gaspatch' Parabellum set, as its more in-scale than the kit supplied 3D printed part.
Now it's onto the control rods and cables before the fuselage is assembled and closed up with the engine,

Mike

Hi all,
The internal fuselage detail is now complete.
I've added Control cables and cross bracing using 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament.
The spark advance control rod is 0.4 mm diameter Nickel-Silver tube, as will be the throttle control rod.
The throttle control rod will be added after the fuselage is closed up, so it can be passed through the left side of the instrument panel frame.

I may add a map to the gunners table,

Mike

Hi all,
I'm intending to add a flare and a grenade ammunition rack.
So I thought I ought to add the flare and grenade pistols to the gunners cockpit.
Both 'spares' from previous 'Wingnut Wings' models.
The stowage containers were made from photo-etch and 1.4 mm diameter tube.
I also added a map,

Mike

Hi all,
Fuselage closed up now, then and the throttle control rod added (0.4 mm Nickel-Silver tube),

Mike

It's coming along very nicely bagger. Nice usage of leftovers.

Hi all,
I've not posted in the last few weeks, as we took a holiday abroad.
The first time in three years due to the Covid restrictions etc.
The four of us arrived home yesterday.
Yes, you guessed it!!
I have Covid, so does my wife and the wife of our friends we went with.
Anyway, once we're back to normal I'll crack on with the Lloyd model.

Mike

UPDATE: All four of us now

Hi all,
After closing up the fuselage I found a problem with the rear fuselage cabane struts.
The two rear struts on each side were slightly bowed due to the angle they were fitted.
The bottom of two struts had also cracked (3D printed and not reinforced with rods).
Therefore, I cut the struts away and replaced them with shaped Brass tube and internal rod.
This also makes the struts stronger for bearing the weight of the upper wing halves,

Mike

Hi all,
I've prepared the fitting of the upper and lower wings, including test fitting of the six interplane struts.
I found the best way to do this was to permanently fit the lower wings first.
The lower wings have only one integral locating rod and no location for the rod into the fuselage.
Having only one rod meant that the wings would pivot in the fuselage, making wing alignment a problem.
Also, the rod in the right lower wing is located farther rearwards than that in the left wing.
Therefore, the rod would be visible inside the cockpit.
I chose to cut away that rod flush to the wing root.
I then drilled an extra 1.0 mm hole in the left wing root and two holes in the right wing root.
Into these I secured 1.0 mm diameter Brass locating rods.
The fuselage was then marked and holes drilled through the sides of the fuselage.
Both wing locating rods are now not visible from inside the cockpit and the wings are positively located in the fuselage.
The upper wing halves needed to be drilled for 1.0 mm diameter joining rods that locate into the two slots in the top of the fuselage cabane strut assembly.
The locating holes for the six interplane struts were then drilled into, but not through their location points in the wings.
The integral strut rods were cut to 2.0 mm length as they were too long.
The struts were then temporarily held in their locating holes in the upper wing, which was then test fitted into the lower wings and cabane strut slots.

All in all not an easy wing installation, but rigid enough when test fitted.





 

I've also prepared the tail unit, as all of the parts have no locating rods.
I've added location rods of 0.5 mm and 0.8 mm diameter Brass rods.
I cut the elevators from the tailplanes in order to have them angled down slightly.





Now it's onto preparing the landing gear,

Mike

Hi all,
The landing gear has been prepared now.
I've added the following:

1.4 mm diameter Brass tube into the drilled through wheels to provide a more positive fit onto the integral 1.2 mm diameter axle rods.
'EZ' heavy white stretch line to represent the 'Bungee' type suspension cords.
0.4 mm diameter Nickel-Silver tube, bent and fitted to represent the axle restraining cables.
Flattened 0.6 mm diameter Brass tube with integral 0.4 mm diameter Brass rod to represent the crew footstep.



I've also made two crew steps from flattened 0.5 mm diameter Brass tube.
These were fitted to the fuselage left side at the observer's cockpit and to the fuselage right side below the engine.



Now it's onto preparing the tail skid,

Mike

Hi all,
The resin used for the 3D printed parts tends to be very brittle.
The tail skid bracing bars need to take the weight of the model.
Also, the tail skid has no integral strengthening rods or any location into the fuselage.
As I wasn't sure if the bracing bars were strong enough, I replaced the rear bracing bar with 0.8 mm diameter Brass rod.
This was bent at one end to fit into a drilled hole in the underside of the fuselage.

Now onto how to fit the upper wing ailerons onto the wing,

Mike

Hi all,
The ailerons on the upper wing can't be attached with rods as the trailing edge of the upper wing is too thin to drill.
The kit supplies photo-etch 'hinges', which are flimsy and may not adhere well to an oil painted wood effect surface.
Therefore, I decided to modify the hinges by cutting away the hinge arms and drilling 0.5 mm diameter holes through the body of the hinges.
Brass tube of 0.4 mm diameter were inserted through the hinge bodies and holes drilled through the ailerons.
The tubes were bent forwards above and below the upper wing trailing edge.
Holes were drilled through the wing and the top tubes bent to fit into the holes.
The underside tubes were cut to end at the wing holes on the underside.
Doing this allows the ailerons to be angled on the upper wing and should provide a sturdier attachment.
The aileron control horns will be fitted into 0.4 mm wide slots, drilled though the ailerons inside the photo-etch mounting plates.

Now onto preparing for pre-rigging the model,

Mike

Hi all,
It's been a while since I updated this build.
The fuselage, wings, gun cannister and landing gear axle fairing were airbrushed with 'Tamiya' Dark Yellow (XF60).
The flight control surfaces were primed white.
These were pre-shaded with 'Tamiya' Smoke (X19).
The flight control surfaces are covered with ‘Aviattic’ Clear Doped Linen (ATT32097) decal.
The wood effects were brush painted using a mix of Windsor & Newton’ Griffin (Alkyd) Vandyke Brown and Burnt Sienna.
Grey areas are ‘Tamiya’ Neutral Grey (XF53) or Dark Sea Grey (XF54).
Metallic surfaces are ‘Alclad’ Steel (ALC112) or 'Mr. Colour' Stainless Steel (213).
Decal areas were airbrushed with 'Alclad' Aqua Gloss 600.
All parts were then airbrushed with 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC311) in preparation for applying weathering effects,

Mike

Wow! really beautiful paintwork.

Hi all,
Just a few updates.
Propeller base coated with 'Tamiya' Dark Yellow (XF60) then brushed with Windsor & Newton (Alkyd) Burnt Sienna oil paint.
'Lohner' propeller logos applied from the 'LF Models' Austro-Hungarian set then sealed with 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC311).
Radiator assembly treated with 'Flory Models' Dark Dirt clay wash with the 'Number '7' decals (modified) from the 'Xtradecal' RAF set.
'Flory Models' Dark Dirt wash also applied to the wings, fuselage flight control surfaces and landing gear.

Now it's onto pre-rigging the model before assembly,

Mike

Hi all,
The observer/gunners machine gun.
I chose to replace the kit supplied 3D printed machine gun parts.
I used the more refined resin ‘Schwarzlose’ 07-12 unjacketed weapon (17-32112) from ‘Gaspatch’.
The ammunition drum was a spare from a previous 'Wingnut Wings' build.
The kit supplied gun mount needed to be modified with a 0.4 mm diameter rod to fit the weapon to the mount firmly.
'Alclad' Gun Metal (ALC120) was airbrushed over the machine gun.
'Alclad' Steel (ALC112) was airbrushed over the ring mounting rails and lightly over the machine gun.
'Tamiya' Hull Red (XF9) was brush painted over the trigger handles.
'Tamiya' Weathering Master (Set B - Soot) was sponged around the muzzle of the barrel.
Ammunition belt was brush painted with 'Tamiya' Desert Yellow (XF59), 'Mr. Colour Brass (219) and Copper (215).

Mike

Hi all,
The underside of the upper wing, landing gear, aileron control horns and aileron control cables have been pre-rigged.
Monofilament of 0.12 mm diameter with 'Gaspatch' 1:48th scale Anchor Points and Type C turnbuckles.
The rudder and elevator have been fitted to the fin and tailplanes with added photo-etch hinges.
The modified ailerons have been fitted to the upper wing.

Mike

Great stuff... such detail!

Hi all,
The pre-rigged upper wing assembly has now been fitted.
I never use wing alignment rigs or jigs, but fit wings and struts by 'eye'
This wing fit was easier to do most of the other models I've built.

Now it's onto final rigging,

Mike

Hi all,
Getting close to finishing the Lloyd C.V model.
Final rigging done, tail unit completed, landing gear, radiator and gun cannister fitted.
Just a few bits to add - observers weapon, windscreen, crew steps, flare racks and propeller/spinner.

Then it's onto the figures and display case,

Mike

Hi all,
Aileron control cables fitted.
Blackened 0.4 mm diameter Brass tube and 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament,

Mike

Hi all,
A few more bits added.
Propeller and spinner, exhaust pipes and flare rack.

Just the windscreen, crew steps, observers gun/mount and an anemometer to fit, plus.
Also, final weathering,

Mike

Hi all,
Final bits added.
Observers machine and ring mounting.
Windscreen, which was modified from the kit supplied as it was too large.
Airspeed Anemometer added to forward, left interplane strut ('Gaspatch' with scratched photo-etch mounting).
Crew steps added - made from photo-etch and 0.5 mm diameter wire.

The only thing left, if it can be done satisfactorily, is to add the metal cover plates over the flying wire turnbuckles at the lower wing roots.
Then it's onto the figures,

Mike

Another exceptional model. You must have an amazingly steady hand to paint some of the finer details. Interesting color scheme too. It almost makes the wings look like they were made of wood.

Actually, the whole aircraft was covered with 1.2 mm thick Birch plywood, which was protected with a Shellac coating .


Mike

Hi all,
I've represented the cover plates that were fitted over the flying wire turnbuckles at the lower wing roots.



These were made from 0.2 mm thick plastic card.
The raised centres were pressed out using the small 'ball' end of a paper embossing tool.
Holes were punched through the plates to represent the securing bolts.
Painted with 'Alclad' Duraluminium (ALC102) and weathered with 'Flory Models' Dark Dirt clay wash.

That's it for the model itself.
Just the figures to finish,

Mike

Hi all,
Figures done.
Both are the 'Yellow House' German aviators (YH32005) set.
Brush painted with 'Tamiya' acrylics,

Mike

Hi all,
On October the 4th, 1917, Feldpilot (Zugsfuhrer) Adolph Wiltsch and his Observer Roman Schmidt were flying Lloyd C.V Serial No: 46.01 from Flik 13 on the Russian Front.
They were attacked by three Russian ‘Sopwith’ type aircraft.
They managed to evade these attackers and Schmidt managed to shoot down one in flames.
This was Schmidt’s third aerial victory.

As usual a fully detailed Adobe PDF format and bookmarked build log of this model can be downloaded from Gallery 4 on my website (link in signature).

Mike

bump

What a gorgeous and interesting model, Mike! The level of detail you bring always leaves me astounded - I wish my hands were half as steady as yours. Also love the mood captured in the poses of the pilot and observer.