1:32nd scale RAF BE2c

Hi all,
My build of the Fokker D.VI is nearing completion.
Therefore I thought I'd have a crack at one of the 'Lukgraph' model in my stash.
I'm going to have a crack at the resin and 3D printed 1:32nd scale RAF BE2c model.

The subject aircraft has been changed - see the current aircraft further down in this thread.

Mike

Front Lewis fixed to fire above the propeller arc? Recce stalking recce?!? 🤔

Ah yes. The RFC's "Blitzkampfflugzeug" (Battle Plane). Teach the hun a lesson what ! Good choice Bagger.

Hi all,
First up will be the engine.
As you can see the complete engine is 3D printed, with probably only ignition leads to add.
So in theory just separating the five parts from their supports, removing any residual support tags and sanding away any obvious layer striations.
We'll see

Mike

Mike that 3D engine look pretty clean and well formed. It's great that all the leads are on the bottom side which should be well hidden when mounted in the craft I would think.

I have never seen a 3D model aircraft parts so this should be intetesting to follow!

Hi Rob,
The ignition leads route from the magneto on the lower rear of the engine and up through a firewall and then between the cylinder banks to the plugs on the inboard side of the cylinders.
As such they'll probably not be seen once the cowl cover is fitted over the engine,

Mike

Mikei; nice touch with the rust weathering around the casing bolts

Under certain lighting and focusing, I bet that could pass for the real full scale thing!

You know me, always try to make it realistic

Mike

That RAF-1 engine is amazing work, what being so tiny 'n' all. Leave the cowling off Bagger ! Or at least the option to remove it.

Hi all,
OK back to reality
The engine is completed as far as possible.
I've added the ignition leads and support rails, even though in reality the leads passed through the internal engine firewall.
As expected, painting a complete 3D printed engine wasn't that easy.
Sanding any print layer striations is not really possible on such detail.
I've not fitted the exhaust manifolds yet as I want to align them correctly to the exhaust stack pipes and fuselage later in the build,

Mike

Hi all,
Preparation of the fuselage and basic cockpit.
The fuselage halves were sand to remove resin artifacts from the mating edges.
Plastic 0.8 mm thick strips were secured to one fuselage half to aid with fuselage alignment during assembly (no locating pegs or holes).
The 3D printed cockpit side frames and bulkheads were assembled, including sanding the top curved edges so fir the contour of the fuselage when joined.
The actual aircraft had 'windows' in the fuselage to allow daylight to illuminate the instrument panels.
The two instrument panels were secured to the cockpit frames to align with the windows.
These are moulded as solid, to be painted silver and covered with acetate sheet.
Instead, I've cut out the three windows to match the supplied photo-etch window frames, which will have just the acetate sheet inserts,

Mike

Hi all,
After checking how the pilots seat was fitted in the BE2c, I believe the kit supplied photo-etch seat cradle is based on the 'Vintage Aviator' reproduction aircraft.
However the actual Wicker seat seems to have been mounted on a plinth which was attached to the cockpit side frame and cross member and braced by wires at its front corners.
There I've represented this using 0.5 mm thick plastic card and 0.8 mm diameter plastic rod.
The following photographs shown the modification as well as the dry fitting of the assembly with the 'Barracuda' resin pilot and observer seats.
Note that in general, the observers seat had a higher back rest than that of the pilot.

Mike

Hi all,
The cockpit assembly is finished.
Note that I changed the scratch built pilot seat support frame as the kit armoured seat 'cradle' is correct for this version of the BE2c.
Built OOB apart from:

The kit supplied 3D printed seats replaced with BarracudaCast’ British wicker AGS seats (BR32234).
Instrument decals replaced with ‘Airscale’ Generic WW1 instruments (AS32 WW1).
Added a observers half firewall as protection from the engine.
Ckpit bracing is 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament and blackened 0.4 mm diameter Nickel-Silver tubes.
Kit photo-etch seat belts/straps replaced with ‘HGW’ seat belts for the RE8 (HGW132027).

The forward engine support frames and fuel tank are still to be fitted,

Mike

Holy S****

Hi all,
I forgot to add a fuel contents indicator tube onto the pilots instrument panel.
Added now using 0.4 mm diameter Nickel-Silver tube, partially dipped in 'Tamiya' Clear Yellow (X24),

Mike

Ooh, that would have been a tricky install after the panel had been installed!

Looking quite brilliant.

Hi all,
Change of plan.
I've decided to model a different BE2c squadron aircraft.

No.13 Squadron:
No.13 Squadron RFC was formed on the 10th of January 1915, equipped with twelve newly built RAF BE2c aircraft and was dispatched as a Corps reconnaissance unit to France in October 1915.
The squadron served at Savy in France during 1916. Later the Squadron was also equipped with RAF BE2d and BE2e versions.
The role of reconnaissance was maintained until the armistice. In April 1917 the squadron was re-equipped with the R.E.8.

BE2c Serial No.2635
RAF BE2c, Serial No:2635 was built by Ruston-Proctor and was delivered to the newly formed squadron as factory fresh.
The aircraft were finished overall in Clear Doped Linen (CDL) with white wheel covers and battle ship grey painted nose panels and cowls.
The wheel covers were painted as roundels, which was at the pilots preference.
On the 23rd of April 1916, a squadron making was allocated , which consisted of a narrow black horizontal stripe, which was applied to the sides of the fuselage and spanned between the front of the pilots cockpit and the leading edge of the tail plane.
This marking was retained when the aircraft were replaced with the R.E.8.
This particular aircraft has a Type C camera mounting rack on the fuselage starboard side.
The aircraft was also fitted with racks for carrying 112lb ‘Cooper’ bombs.
A Lewis machine gun was fitted for the observers and a second for the pilot. Ammunition drums were carried in racks mounted on the sides of the fuselage.
It’s unclear whether BE2c Serial No.2635 was lost in action or retired and struck off charge.

Mike

Hi all,
The fuselage is now closed up.
The join between the two halves (CA adhesive) needed some filling and sanding.
I airbrushed grey primer over the fuselage which shows up any joint or seam gaps etc.
Then re-filled and re-primed and sanded until a smooth joint was achieved.

After test fitting, I'll be leaving the engine out until towards the end of the build as it makes it easier for painting and applying decals etc.

Mike

I am astounded at the fine detail work you are able to do, Mike. Seriously - I wish I had hands that steady, it's really impressive to see these machines come together!

Cheers!

Hi Rob,
Actually it was.
I didn't spot it until I'd closed up the fuselage

Mike

Hi all,
One area of the fuselage may need to be addressed.
The underside of the nose is too square in shape and should be more rounded.
This can be seen on the following photographs, the last of which is the reproduction BE2c at the 'Vintage Aviator Ltd'.
The nose on the kit looks more like that of the R.E.8.
Whether this can be rectified remains to be seen,

Mike







RE8 nose

Hi all,
With careful sanding (to avoid breaking through the corners) the kit nose can be re-profiled,

Mike

Wow, excellent!

Hi all,
More corrections required.

The kit instructions indicate that the left and right tailplane's should be attached to the rear sides of the fuselage, using two rods.
The illustration shows the inboard ends of the tailplane's being 90 degrees to their leading edges and noticeably clear of the fuselage sides along their entire length.
However, it seems that in reality, the inboard ends of the tailplane's were angled to follow the sides of the fuselage and the only noticeable gap was at the rear, where the fuselage tapered to its end.







Also, the plywood rear decking is tapered to align with the linen covering over the fuselage stringers.
I think 'Lukgraph' assumed that as wood, it wasn't profiled, but fitted horizontal.
Unfortunately it can't, like the nose profile, be sanded, as the fuselage skin is too thin and would be open up.
A more obvious, but not as easily rectified, error on the kit.



Mike

Incredible work Mike. Of course if I posted that every time I thought it, there'd be a new posting every time I opened one of your model threads.

Hi all,
Tailplane's:
I cut the inboard ends of both tailplane's to match the fuselage sides.
This only needed a small amount of trimming so doesn't alter the span of the tailplane's much.
The fuselage was drilled through with 0.8 mm diameter holes at the tailplane location points.
Two lengths of 0.8 mm diameter Brass rod were secured through the fuselage using thin CA adhesive.
Both tailplanes were drilled with 0.8 mm diameter holes to match the added rods.
The tailplane's were test fitted to ensure they were horizontal to the fuselage and at 90 degrees to the fuselage centre line.

Now the fuselage (possibly),

Mike

Hi all,
Here's the re-profiled fuselage rear decking panel.
This was done by sanding away the decking panel, the cutting a new panel shape from 0.2 mm thick plastic card.
That was glued in position then sanded with the flats of the fuselage stringers re-instated by scrapping.

Mike

Hi all,
A few more areas of the model that anyone building it might want to be aware off.

1. The instructions have no call out for the parts, apart from the supplied photo-etch parts.
This could cause some confusion with the cockpit, as parts are supplied to make a trainer version.

2. The instruction give the impression that the lower wings butt up to the sides of the fuselage.
In face there should be a gap between the wings and fuselage, exposing the front and rear spars and attachments.
This is important as if the lower wings are not positioned correctly, the interplane struts to the upper wing will tilt inwards at the bottom, when they should be vertical.
I've added a brass rod through the fuselage for extra support and added tube spacers for the necessary gap between wings and fuselage.









3. The rigging diagram in the instructions fails to show the interconnecting aileron control wires between the upper and lower ailerons.



Also only one drag wire is shown from the engine bearers to the upper wing, whereas there were two, one to the top of the forward cabane struts and a second to the top of the forward, inboard interplane struts.





4. The rigging diagram in the instructions shows only two bracing wires for the fuselage cabane struts, whereas there were actually four.
A wire was attached to the tops of the two rear cabane struts and also the forward cabane struts.
These wires were routed through openings at each side of the pilots decking panel and into the cockpit, where there were attached to the cockpit side frames.





5. The gravity fuel tank (behind the engine) and the main fuel tank (under the observers seat) were interconnected with a fuel transfer pipe.
A fuel supply pipe was also connected between the gravity tank and the engine.
That pipe won't be seen on the model, but the gravity to main tank pipe can be seen from the observers cockpit.
I added this pipe using flexible black tube.



6. The 3D printed tail skid is intended to be butt glued to the rear, underside of the fuselage.
I felt, given the size and weight of the final model by prove to be too weak.
Therefore I reinforcred the centre strut of the tail skid using 0.5 mm diameter rod.

Apart from that, it's all going quite well

Mike

Hi all,
Another fix required.
The rigging diagrams in the kit instructions fail to show a single bracing wire fitted outboard from the bottom of the inboard front interplane struts.
This wire was routed diagonally up to the underside of the front spar of the upper wing, midway between the inboard and outboard interplane struts.

Mike

Good catch. Remarkable attention to detail. But rather careless and negligent behaviour by the kit maker. They should be informed of these oversights in a respectful yet firm manner and encouraged to correct these unfortunate mistakes.

Hi Catch
I did message them explaining the apparent errors/omissions and suggested they might want to look at the planned BE2 e/f versions.
They thank me but said it was too late to correct and they hoped modelers could correct the model where necessary.
Not really good for a model costing £180 ($318 AU),

Mike

Indeed!

In any event, I'm very much looking forward to the finished product (with amendments). The Quirk has that Edwardian steam punk look that only that period could produce. God bless her and all those that sailed in her. I really love those early buses!

Hi all,
A few updates.
I've primed then masked off the wings, fuselage and other flight surfaces, then pre-shaded the internal structures.
This was over sprayed with white primer to 'knock back' the pre-shading.
The linen effect decals will be applied before the kit markings.
The fuselage nose was painted with 'Tamiya' Neutral Grey (XF53) and the cockpit decking panel and under fuselage with Dark Yellow (XF60), in preparation for applying wood effects.

Mike

Hi all,
The Clear Doped Linen (CDL) decals have been applied on the fuselage, wings, ailerons, fin, tail plane's and elevators.
The 'LukGraph' supplied CDL decals supplied with the Premium kit are very much like those from 'Aviattic'.
They are quite strong and adhere well to the model surfaces.
The kit supplied marking decals were applied onto the CDL decals.
The Serial No.2635 had to be made from spare decals, as the kit does not have the markings for this particular aircraft.
The black stripe marking for No.13 Squadron was from the 'XtraDecal' black strip set (XPS1).

Now onto applying the wood effects to the fuselage,

Mike

Looks great Mike - delicate enough to fly.

The heaviest part I bet (apart from the chunky engine) is the balls of steel needed to go fly in one.

Hi all,
Wood effect Applied using 'Windsor and Newton' Griffin Alkyd Raw Sienna.
Some shadowing applied to wings and fuselage using 'Tamiya' Smoke (X19).
Cockpit padding brush painted with 'AL Interactive' Brown Leather.
Nose number 1 airbrushed with mask cut on a 'Cricut' Air 2 cutter.

Now onto further weathering,

Mike

This is true although it is said Camel pilots required huge balls to counteract the gyroscopic effect of various rotary engines. They were the most successful pilots.

As for the Be2, they tell me beauty and the devil are the same thing. And while beautiful to look at, she was the very devil to fly in wartime.

Her beauty however will be revealed in all her glory by the Bagger in the fullness of time.

Hi all,
Well it happens
I accidentally spilled a bottle of White Spirits over my modelling workspace and, unfortunately the model.
I tried to dab it off but it had already dissolved areas of the applied decals on all of the models parts.
As I had no CDL decal replacements and no wanting to purchase and wait for replacements, I decide to go to Plan B.
This required the removal of as much of the decal as possible, leaving some in place as weathering effect.
The fuselage took the main hit, but fortunately not inside the fuselage.
So I've stripped all of the decals (CDL, roundels and black stripes).
The black stripes were airbrushed and replacement roundels and 'lift here' decals were applied.
My plan is to apply 'Flory Models' Dark Dirt and Grime fine clay wash (which I normally apply anyway).
Hopefully the wash will compliment the residual CDL decal to give the model a well worn, war weary look.
We'll see,

Mike

Oh no God no ! Anyone but her ! Please tell me this didn't happen bagger and you were just being mischievous.

NOOOOO!

maybe it was damaged because of the hangar burning after a Hun bomb attack?

The frightful nightmares continue. I awaken drenched and shaking. I shall never touch white spirits again.

Hi all,
PLAN B.
Damaged CDL decal, fuselage decals removed.
Black squadron stripes airbrushed, fuselage and 'Lift Here' decals replaced.
'Flory Models' Dark Dirt and Grime clay washes applied.
Sealed with 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC-311) clear lacquer.

Hopefully a more dirty, 'war weary' finish.

Mike

Hi all,
The kit supplies a photo-etch carrier for three spare ammunition drums for the Lewis machine guns.
Various profiles and photographs show these carriers to have storage for different amounts of ammunition drums.
The photograph below show a captured No.13 Squadron BE2c with a four drum carrier, as does the colour profile I'm using for this model.
Therefore I chose to make this type of carrier from 0.2 mm thick plastic card.
This was primed white then airbrushed with 'Tamiya' Dark Yellow (XF60).
I then brushed Windsor and Newton Raw Sienna (Griffin Alykld).
The four ammunition drums are those from the replacement 'GasPatch' Lewis Mk.1 stripped half heatsinks (32-32052) set.
They were airbrushed with 'Tamiya' Gloss Black (X1), then with 'Alclad' Steel (ALC-112).
The rounds were brushed painted with 'Mr. Colour' Brass (219) with 'AK Interactive' Brown Leather (AK3031) for the hand straps.

Mike

PLAN B is looking great bagger ! You have saved her and dare I say, I think she'll be an improvement, God bless 'er.

Hi all,
The engine is now fitted, including the upper auxiliary fuel tank and it's tube connecting it to the main fuel tank under the observers seat.



The kit supplied top cowl is supplied as either resin or photo-etch, but neither seem curved enough at the top when fitted.
Also the RAF 1a engine had baffle plates fitted between the engine cylinders and these are not provided for in the kit.
Therefore it looks like I'll need to make the cowl and baffles instead,

Mike

Hi all,
A few more observations of areas of the model not included.

Later versions of the BE2c had an access panel on the right side of the fuselage and rear of the pilot’s cockpit. This panel is not included on the kit fuselage and will need to be created.



Later versions of the BE2c had either one or two circular access panels on the left side of the nose, on the triangular panel. This panel is not included on the kit.







Also most BE2c aircraft had a twin pitot tube fitted to an outboard interplane strut. Also not included in the kit.

Mike

Hi all,
The weapons are now finished, although the observers Lewis will be finally positioned on its swivel mounting once the rigging etc is completed.

The Lewis machine gun for the observer was mounted on a tubular swivel arm located centrally between the observer and pilots cockpits.
The Lewis machine gun for the pilot was mounted to the side of the cockpit and angled to fire obliquely outboard.

Both weapons and the spare ammunition drums are the ‘GasPatch’ Lewis Mk.1 stripped half heat sinks (32-32052).
The observers weapon has a 0.3 mm diameter rod fitted to allow it to swivel on the gun mounting.
Similarly the pilots weapon has a rod fitted to locate it into a hole drilled into the side of the fuselage.
I chose not to use the kit supplied photo-etch mounting for the pilots weapon as is was way to flimsy.
Both weapons were primed with 'Tamiya' Gloss Black (X1) then airbrushed with 'Alclad' Gun Metal (ALC120).
Then ‘Mr. Colour’ Super Metallic - Super Iron (203) was dry brushed over the weapons.
Finally 'Tamiya' Hull Red (XF9) was applied to the handles and 'AK Interactive' Brown Leather (AK3031) to the drum straps.
A light wash os 'AK Interactive' Kerosene (AK2039) was applied over the ammunition drums.

Mike

It is heartening to see a professional overcoming, erm, shortcomings shall we say, of the kit makers. You are making an oft maligned lady into a thing of beauty bagger. I'm much obliged.

Hi all,
On most BE2c aircraft, linen was wrapped around the four fuselage cabane struts and the landing gear struts.
This was done to protect the struts and to help prevent the wood from splitting.
To represent the linen wrapping I used cut thin strips of plumbers Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) tape.
This tape is by nature very thin and will self-grip to tools and your fingers, so patience and repeated cutting will be necessary.
The tape was secured in position using thin CA adhesive.
Then airbrushed with 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC311), treated with 'Flory Models' Grime wash and finally clear coated again.

Mike

Looking great, Mike! I'm always impressed with your attention to detail and your ability to salvage a project after a mishap is inspiring.

Cheers mate!

Hi all,
Well, the most difficult part of this model build, the top engine cowl, is done.
Without going into detail (as it's covered in my build log), I had to effectively scratch the cowl.
The kit supplied photo-etch or resin cowls were discarded.
I used the centre section of the photo-etch panel, annealed and bent into shape.
The retaining straps from the cowl onto the cylinder head bolts, the cylinder baffles and the fire wall were made from 0.2 mm thick plastic card.
The centre support strut under the cowl and into the engine block is painted 0.4 mm diameter tube.

Now it's onto pre-rigging,

Mike

Good Lord, that is a most handsome bonnet the lady wears! I'm so glad you discarded the kits version bagger, and proceeded in a realistic fashion despite the difficulty. 5 stars.

Hi all,
Just a few updates.
The bomb racks, wheels, interplane struts and propeller.
I'm now finishing off the eight 'Hale' heavy case Mk.II/C bombs,

Mike

Hi all,
A couple more updates.
The photo-etch camera mounting, which represents the CFS Mk.II/C mounting.
Also the three fuselage windows are done.
The photo-etch frames for the two square side windows were secured in position over the created openings, using thin CA adhesive.
I then infilled the frames with 'Microscale' Krystal Kleer, which once cured leaves a transparent film.
The opening in the larger rectangular window is too large to apply Krystal Kleer straight off.
Therefore I cut a very thin strip from the supplied windscreen acetate sheet.
The strip was just long enough to span across the centre, underside of the photo-etch frame.
This effectively creates two smaller openings for applying the Krystal Kleer.
The frame was then added to the fuselage in the same manner used for the side windows,

Mike

Hi all,
The eight 'Hale' 20lb heavy case MkII/C bombs.
The red and green stripes were decals taken from another model kit.

Mike

I never get tired of following your builds.
Just freakin' fantastic!

It's friggin' beaut innit! And to think I reeled in burlesque horror after bagger's unplanned accidental incident. I think this bird shall be his greatest achievement of character over adversity.

I agree, catch.

"Out of crisis comes opportunity."

Great job, Mike.

Awesome detailing on these models!

Hi all,
The pre-rigging is done.
The aileron, rudder and elevator control rigging will be fitted after the wings have been fitted and final rigged.
That way the exposed control lines have less chance of being damaged during handling.
Also the landing gear and rigging will be fitted later,

Mike

I have to say, it is a little embarrassing I have to admit on seeing this grand lady's undergarments and supportive stay wires on public display in such an undignified manner but nonetheless, a lady's trappings have never been fully understood, let alone comprehended, by mere male admirers such as myself. In that vein, I cast my eyes aside in this instance but look forward with much enthusiasm to future installments of this amazing build.

Hi all,
Tricky to fit but now the pre-rigged upper wing has been fitted.
I've kept the temporary elastic bands over the wings.
This is to keep them the wings restrained until the rigging is done.
The solid lower wings can flex slightly on their locating rods, which can cause the strut joints to separate.

Now onto the final rigging,

Mike

Hi all,
The wings are now fully rigged.
This includes twin flying wires, single landing wires, incidence wires, wing brace wires, drag wires and cabane strut cross and fuselage bracing wing wires.
I've yet to airbrush the rigging to knock back the shine..
Next up is fitting and rigging the landing gear so as to lift the wings and prevent contact damage to the aileron controls (when fitted).
Then it'll be ailerons, rudder, elevator and their control line rigging.

Mike

Quite the spider web Mike! She is looking good.

Best Regards

After an earlier indecorous illustration, I'm heartened to see her fully clothed in all her glory bagger but the upright joystick is unseemly and dare I say unwarranted ?

Wow!

Hi all,
The aileron control line have now been rigged.
It's difficult to make out on the photographs as it's a larger models to focus on.
Next up is the landing gear before I move onto the rudder and elevator controls,

Mike

Hi all,
The kit supplied landing gear comprises two ‘V’ struts and the axle/fairing.
The axle is intended to be glued to the bottom of the two ‘V’ struts.
However, there is nothing to retain the axle at the bottom of the struts, except the CA adhesive under the axle and onto the bottom of the struts.
The weight of the model bearing down on the axle and wheels with only the CA adhesive taking the weight is a joint failure waiting to happen.
Therefore this needs to be addressed.
Also the ’bungee’ suspension cords are retained between two discs on the ends of the axle, which are not represented in the kit.
Finally the internal strengthening rod within the axle protrudes from either end for mounting the wheels.
However, the protrusions do not go far enough into the wheels, which is another weak point.

Onward, upward,

Mike

I love how you specifically noted that it was "tricky to fit" the top wing. As if the rest of this is no biggie....!

I see and read all this, and still can't understand how you do it!

Hi all,
Landing gear and tail skid now done.
I managed to twist and pull the axle metal rod from the axle fairing.
This was replaced with a brass rod, which was longer to fit deeper into the wheels.
The axle retainer discs for the bungee suspension cords were cut from 0.2 mm thick plastic card with a central hole to fit onto the axle rod.
The axle assembly was held into the 'V' struts with CA adhesive, backed up with 0.2 mm diameter annealed copper wire.
The bungee cord, represented by 'EZ' line White (heavy), was then wrapped across and around the axle ends, between the retainer discs.

The model now needs to be held by the fuselage.
Therefore, before adding the elevator and rudder controls and wires, I'll need to fit the remaining parts to the forward fuselage.

Mike

NO WAY!!!! C'MON!!!! What sorcery is this? Do my eyes deceive me? It is too much to comprehend the intricacies. I must lie down, defeated yet awestruck.

Hi all,
A few more updates.
Bombs and bomb control quadrant and cables added.
Hand operated fuel pressure pump added.
Engine exhausts with retaining frames added.
Windscreens added.
Upper wing straps added.
Ammunition drum rack added.
Pilot and observers machine guns added.
The tail planes and elevators added.
The fin and rudder added.
Kit supplied 3D printed wing skids replaced with 0.6 mm diameter blackened Brass tube.

The kit supplied CFS Mk.4 bomb sight has been binned.
It was so frail it literally fell off in bits!!
I'll need to make a representation of one instead.
Also the propeller will be fitted (last).
Finally the rudder and elevator controls and cables are still to be added.

Mike

This is outrageous bagger! Who are these people wot treat this grand and noble dame like some kind of cheap tart! The only good thing to come out of this will be your superior and QUALITY bomb sight. Charlatans!

Hi all,
Bomb sight recovered from kit part with extras added from 0.3 mm diameter tube and 0.2 mm thick plastic sheet.
Also the pitot tube added from 0.3 mm diameter tube (blackened).

Just the elevator and rudder controls to add then it's onto the figures,

Mike

Hi all,
Elevator control cables rigged.
Now onto the rudder,

Mike

Hi all,
The tail plane bracing wires added.
Rudder control cables added.
Propeller fitted.

That's it for the aircraft.

Now onto the figures,

Mike

Well I think you deserve a drink when this lady is done bagger, a quiet quality single malt, smooth and neat. With overwhelming pride and contained emotion, I shall raise a glass of the same in your honour and hers.

Hi all,
Figures done.
‘Model Cellar’ British RFC pilot and gunner (MC32026).
Painted using 'Tamiya' and 'AK Interactive' acrylics and 'Citadel' paints for the flesh.

Once again many thanks for your comments and encouragement - most appreciated.

I'll post the completed model once it's in its display case,

Mike

Must be a new pilot Mike! He seems far too happy!!

The model looks great, by the way!

Cheers

That's because they don't know yet they've been allotted to fly a BE2c

Mike

Hi all,
Here's the shots of the completed model.
This model represents BE2c Serial No. 2635 of No.13 Squadron, RFC, operating from Savy in France during 1916.

Once again thanks for your comments and encouragement - appreciated,

Mike

Brilliant...

Another brillant work Mike (especially after "the incident"). I particularly like the crew appearing to enjoy a chuckle together after a presumably successful mission.

Geoff de Havilland, designer of the BE.1 and father of the BE.2 would, if he could, arise from his grave and salute you bagger. Your model is a masterpiece, that of a lady of pure magnificence and grace. I cannot say more for fear of diluting your wonderful contribution to human endeavour and aviation history.

Museum quality build. Super!

Sandbagger,

Not to be too crass, but you should consider getting a vendor's booth at the upcoming WWI Fly-in. I'm sure people would be willing to pay upwards of several hundreds of dollars for each example of such quality work.

Hi BB,
Nice of you say so.
But the cost of flying from the UK to the States would far exceed what I possibly would get, even if I was willing to sell, which I'm not
Besides some of my models cost more to build than that anyway.

Mike

Just noticed the pilots windscreen has lifted at one side - sorted now

Mike

Your work is spectacular Sir, but,.... and I have hesitated to say this for a longtime, with all due respect, it is time for a new camera old boy and better resolution pictures. The detail you put into your hand craftsmanship of these models is just not showing up in your final picture showcases, and the picture taking process begs to be upgraded. Please take no insult from this because none is intended. Hopefully you receive it as a friendly FYI observation from one of your fans.

S!Blade<><

Yes I totally agree.
I did get a FinePix S8200 some years ago, but I couldn't get good results.
I have a tripod and daylight LED lights etc.
I think it's more my lack of knowledge more than the camera.
As such I just just use my IPad.
I must admit that as the models get larger, depth of field becomes more of a problem.
To get close in I have to zoom the IPad screen, hence the blurry close up cockpit shots.

Mike

Absolutely mind blowing work Mike..Brilliant

Mike,

I've long been something of a lurker on this thread and have always long admired your work. Something about this model makes it sparkle as one of the best of a stellar collection. Congratulations, sir!

Just one more look at this beautiful bird. Look at them lines. She's a looker an' no mistake crafted by a master builder. Offering large sums of money for her would somehow seem tawdry and unclean. I'm glad she's not for sale bagger, dignity intact.

Amazing work. Every one of your builds blows my mind with regard to the detail and care.