OT - Fokker pair No.2

Hi all,
The first of the Fokker D.VII pair is completed.
So now I'm starting the second of the models, the 'skeletal' model.
This will be a full view model with 3D printed parts from 'Shapeways'.

The donor engine is from the 'Wingnut Wings' Fokker D.VII (OAW) built with the following replacement 3D printed components:
Created by Bob Monroe ('Flugzeugwerke') and available from ‘Shapeways’.
Mercedes D.III Oil Pump,
Mercedes D.IIIa Cylinders (hollow),
Mercedes D.IIIa Crankcase,
German Aircraft Magneto,
Mercedes Cylinder clamps,
Gun synchro mechanism,

The aircraft structure will be the 3D printed Fokker D.VII structure.
Created by Richard Andrews ('Aviattic') and available from ‘Shapeways’.

Shapeways

There will be other after market parts used.

I thought I'd start with the engine, which had to modify slightly as the internal mountings in the 3D sump and block are too small to accept the kit supplied propeller shaft.
Instead I've made one from brass micro-tube to fit not only the 3D engine but also the 'Proper Plane' Heine propeller.

Mike

Hi Mike, The linked images are not showing for me.

I forgot my site host servers are undergoing maintenance (yesterday and today) - hopefully my images will show up by tomorrow,

Mike

Those are beautiful models. Especially that HANSA-BRANDENBURG W.29. Thanks for the link. Enjoyed them all.

Ah, now the links are working!

Error 503 on the host server - apparently the ISS pool had to be refreshed 

OK now,



Mike

Hi all,
A few more engine bits prepared.
Spark plugs made from micro-tube and 'RB Motion' aluminium nuts.
'Taurus' manifold locking rings - cut and sanded to fit the 3D printed engine,

Mike

Hi all,
A couple of magnetos each made of four separate 3D printed parts.
The ignition leads support tube made from micro-tube.
The magneto drive modified to fit the 3D engine with a brass rod for the magneto drives.
Also the cylinders are mounted onto the engine block,

Mike

Hi all,
Starting to assemble the engine accessories now.
So far the spark plugs, ignition lead support tubes, camshaft, air pump, coolant drain tap and cylinder base bridging clamps.
Still plenty more to do,

Mike

Looking good Mike. Can you explain the difference between resin and 3D printed parts? I assume you went with 3D printed because they’re better. Are they more detailed? Or is it because they could be printed on demand and thus more readily available? Just wonderin’.

Normally a kit will be created using styrene ('plastic'), which can vary dependent on who makes the kit. The two halves of the sprue mold are machined from steel and styrene under pressure is pumped into the mold, which when separated ejects the parts sprue.
Some styrene is harder and therefore can be more defined in detail. Also these kits normally have location pegs and holes, so alignment of parts is not a problem. Parts are cemented using styrene cement, which melts and welds surfaces together.
Resin kits are made either as production runs or as short runs and, like sand casting, use master patterns to create the molds (similar to vacuum molded kits) in which the resin is poured. Those companies that retail resin as standard, such as HPH Models, are usually of better quality than those from short runs, which can have more problems, such as warping, small air blow holes and mis-molding (short shot). I have some resin parts which are obviously created in a small one man workshop. Some resin kits have no locating pegs or holes so can prove tricky to align parts and parts need to be cemented using CA adhesive, which bonds surfaces together, as styrene cement has no effect on resin.
The new comer is 3D printing, which although it has come a long way, still has its limitations. Various materials are used but for the parts I'm using, acrylic is the base material.
Expense is one disadvantage and small parts can be brittle (dependent on the material used) and even fine printing still leaves 'layer lines' on the surfaces.
However, printing from CAD type design software can produce small and detailed parts. For example look my earlier shot of the 3D printed engine block compared to the kit supplied part.

As the exposed structure for this model is 3D printed, I thought I'd try the 3D printed engine parts available as well.
So far I'm quite impressed with the level of detail although the surface 'layer lines' are evident on close inspection. They can be sand or scrapped away, but this is not really a practical option when working with small complex parts,

Mike

Mike, thanks for this thorough explanation. Imagine one day when we all will be able to 3D print parts for our models right at home. I suppose one day they’ll come up with a way to eliminate the layer lines. Probably increase the resolution to a level that is indiscernible to the human eye. Technology!

Hi all,
The engine has progressed a bit more now with the addition:
The conical valve springs
Crankcase breather pipe
Magneto drive assembly with two 3D printed magnetos
Two air pump to crankcase pipes
Decompression valve.

Still have to add ignition leads, intake manifold with locking rings, water pump, coolant pipes, oil filler pipes, sump oil sight glass.
There's also a couple of other pipes plus engine controls.

Mike

Hi all,
The 3D printed parts are detailed but as can be seen from the shot below, some are very small.
This is a pair of machine gun synchronization mechanisms, each made up of four separate parts.
The biggest problem is separating them from the base block without damaging them!!

Mike

The engine looks fantastic Mike! Keep us posted on what tools you used to separate the 3D printed matter. If the material is dense in nature it could be problematic. Knife or saw!!

Trouble is the acrylic material used tends to be brittle so is very difficult to remove without damaging it,

Mike

Hi all,
The end is in sight for this engine build.
I've added the decals, ignition leads, gun synchronization mechanism, oil sight glass, generator and drive, cylinder fuel primers, water pump, intake manifold with locking rings, crankcase breather pipe and additional pipes.
All that's left is to add the engine mounted throttle and spark advance (ignition timing) controls - the remainder of the control runs can't be added until the engine is fitted into the fuselage (with the cockpit),

Mike

Mike

I guess you were able to cut the 3D printed parts without damaging them. The engine looks really impressive.

What kind of tool did you use to separate the 3D parts from their base?

Hi Rob,
Yeah I used a fine modelling saw to cut away most of the base block then carefully sanded the rest off.
Bob Monroe, who created the parts, suggested a saw from 'RB Productions and fixing the base block to something larger so it was easier to hold whilst cutting it away, but I'd already done it by then.
I have that saw coming though, for future use,

Mike'

Would that saw have been produced through a photo etch process. I understand that is a common approach for very thin craft saw blades.

Hi Rob,
Yes - Radu Briznan at 'RB Productions' makes most of his tools by photo-etch.

I've added the control linkage to the top of the twin carburettors, which consist two levers, connecting rod and cable pulley.
Also the connected levers on the top of the attached 'speed controllers;.
I also created the frame mounted throttle bell-crank and the two cross bars on the forward fuselage frames, which are missing from the kit parts,

Mike

Hi all,
The final on-engine control linkage has been added, which is the spark advance (ignition timing) for bottom magnetos.
For now the engine will be put to one side so I can make a start on the cockpit,

Mike

Mike, for a minute I thought the top picture was of your model!
That is a fine job. Can’t wait to see the cockpit build. I bet you’ll be adding glass to the dials and painting the needle tips with the fluorescent paint.

Hi all,
The kit supplied fuselage side frames married to the 3D printed fuselage.
This required cutting both, as both have a pilots seat frame and only one can be used of course.
As the join between the two could be a weak area, I chose to fit them together using brass micro-tube.
This gives more rigidity to the join of the fuselage and allows the fitting of the pilots seat frame from the kit (part A26),

Mike

Just marvelous engine detail Mike. I for one, really appreciate all the construction notes. It's like taking a model building course. So...when does the video come out!!

Mike, WOW! Don't know what else to say.

Hi all,
Well time to start the fuselage build with controls, pipework etc,

Mike

Hi all,
Cockpit floor with controls and seat done,

Mike

Interesting to see a lozenge pattern used behind the pilot seat! I wonder why they did that.

Model looks really nice and I am anxiously awaiting it's completion.

Best Regards

Hi all,
I've started on the cockpit pipework.
The pipe connections under the fuel tank.
Behind the instrument panel is the fuel valve manifold (made of micro-tube) connected to the pilot's four selectors. Two pipes out are for connecting the supply from the main and auxiliary fuel tanks.
From the bottom of the manifold will be the two supply pipes to the engines duel carburetor.
Electrical cables added to the rear faces of the starter magneto and ignition switch.

Mike

Hi all,
Now things start to get complicated!!


Mike

Mike, I would say it got complicated a while back! Great model.

Hi all,
The pilot's seat and support frame now fitted,

Mike

Hi all,
The pilot's hand operated fuel pressure pump pipe is done.
Also the rear gun support frame and the instrument panel are fitted,

Mike

This is more detailed than the real thing! I just keep on marvelling every time you post new photographs. Stunning work Mike.

Mike I am loving this!! It is getting very crowded in that frame and I bet quite challenging to connect all the lines and cables in such confined space.
Amazing patience you have Sir!

Hi all,
A few more things added:
Fuel lines from the underside of the fuel tank to the fuel gallery behind the instrument panel.
Grease line from the pilot's 'screw down' pump to the engine mounted water pump.
Fuel drain line from the underside of the fuel tank to outside of the fuselage bottom.
Oil line from the oil tank (in the fuel tank) to the engine driven oil pump.

Now it's onto the wiring up the magnetos and adding the throttle and spark advance (ignition timing) controls,

Mike

Mike, just what tools are you using to feed those lines inside the frame. I know you can't get your fingers in there.
Do you have the frame held in a clamp and then use tweezers in both hands?

Best Regards

Hi Rob,
Just two tweezers as the frame is way to fragile to clamp in any way,

Mike

Hi all,
Tachometer drive added from gun synchronization mechanism.
The two carburetor fuel feed pipes from the gallery behind the instrument panel,
The two machine gun trigger cables from the control column to the gun synchronization mechanism,

Mike

Hi all,
Leads fitted from the magneto starter behind the instrument panel to both engine driven magnetos,

Mike

Mike what are you using for the electrical leads and did you have to paint them?

Hi Rob,
The leads are made from 'T-Force' XPS Match Sinking 0.148 mm line (Trabucco),

Mike

Ha Ha, so you must be a fly fisherman also!!

Hi all,
'Spark Advance' control (Ignition Timing) fitted from cockpit lever to engine magnetos linkage rod.
Made from 0.3 mm brass tube, 0.1 mm Nickel-Silver rod and scratch link.

Mike

OK,I get it now, you have a disassembled Fokker in your back yard and taking pictures as you get her back together! Fantastic work Mike.

MFair, your killing me!!

I can see why you might think that! It's an amazing piece of work isn't it!

Robert, as I am working on the Pfalz D.IIIa I ask myself all the time, “how does he do it?!” Yes Sir, it is amazing.

Hi all,
Throttle control run added from pilot's throttle lever to the linkage on the dual carburettors.
Scratch made from 0.1 mm Nickel-Silver rod and 0.3 mm brass tube with the pivot lever created from 'spare' photo-etch,

Mike

Hi all,
Control cable for the hand operated throttle added.
Lead wire 0.2 mm diameter, from hand throttle on the control column, down and under the floor, up side frames and across the throttle quadrant.
Then down the other side, under the floor and back up to the hand throttle.

Mike

Mike is that lead wire spot glued in several locations to the frame and what type of glue did you have to use with it?

Yes it is - CA adhesive as normal styrene cement won't touch anything other than the kits parts.
CA for lead or copper wire, acrylic 3D printed parts, brass or Nickel-Silver micro-tube.

Mike

Thanks Mike

Hi all,
Generator lead and seat connector fitted.
Generators were not standard fit, but were installed to some aircraft to power heated flying suits later in WW1 and if carried, wireless transmitters.
Made from 0.4 mm diameter Nickel-Silver micro-tube and 0.148 mm diameter match line.


Mike

Much more to do?

Hi Rob,
The cockpit and engine are more or less done.
I'll need to add the synchronization drives from the mechanism to the guns but only when I get to fit them.
Now I'm starting on the radiator and coolant pipes then ALL I have left is to completely rig the fuselage, paint and rig the wings, scratch make the undercarriage fairing and axle assembly then build it all including rudder, fin, tail plane and elevator then rig all of the flight controls.
So not much

Hi all,
Radiator with photo-etch front and rear cooling core and scratch made pilot operated flap (to control engine cooling),

Mike

I'm gettting a chubby just looking at this stuff.
Cheers,
shredward

The Radiator is beautifully weather with a nice patina

Trust me Ted - it's giving me a hard time as well

It certainly has been a LONG journey to erect this replica.

Hi all,
Radiator flap control now fitted.
Made from micro-tube (0.4 mm and 0.1 mm diameter), photo-etch pulley and 0.125 mm copper wire for the loop handle,

Mike

Mike I have to ask, what are you using for reference material regarding placement of all the components. It almost seems that you have a copy of the blue prints!

Knowing where to attach/place all those parts boggles my mind!

Hi Rob,
I use the internet and various publications, although some are 'best guess' as there's not a lot of text or illustrations on these controls:

Osprey Aircraft of the Aces - Fokker D.VII aces Part 1-2 (Norman Franks/Greg VanWyngarden).
Albatros Productions - Windsock - Data file No.9 - Fokker D.VII (P.M. Grosz).
Albatros Productions - Fokker D.VII Anthology 1, 2 and 3 (Ray Rimell).
Kagero Publishing - Fokker D.VII The Lethal Weapon (Tomasz J. Kowalski and Marek Rys).
Wingnut Wings - Instruction manual (Kit No.32027).
Windsock Modelling Special No.3 - Building the Fokker D.VII (Ray Rimell).
Various online resources (e.g. Wikipedia and the Aerodrome forum).
Albatros D.III - Osprey Publishing (James F. Miller).

Mike

Hi all,
Radiator side stays fitted,

Mike

Hi all,
The front end gas been weathered up a bit to keep it aligned with the associated Fokker D.VII model.
It's ready now for cross brace rigging and the fitting of the twp machine guns with their synchronization drive cables,

Mike

Mike, you had me hanging on the edge of my seat over the last few days with no updates from you on the project. I was afraid you had gone on vacation!!

Heh - no it's just that rigging is very time consuming and as I'm using 0.08 mm line through 0.4 mm tube, I have to take breaks to rest the old eyes

Mike

He He! I just couldn't resist chiding you!
It's an awesome piece of work Mike.

I'm already thinking about how you will display it to take advantage of all the detailed work you have put into it. I suspect it will be a very large dio format with two aircraft in it and I suspect it will be a challenge to avoid crowding..
I'm thinking more along the lines of a rectangular long display so that the fully finished model doesn't obstruct the view of the undinished one. You have a knack for dioramas so I know it will look great!

Hi Rob,
Yeah that's about it - keep it simple and uncluttered,

Mike

Hi all,
Rigging has started now.
Difficult to make out some of the rigging as I had to tie back the flight control lines as they were getting in the way.

So far:
Double bracing across the top of the fuel tank.
Double bracing across the underside of the cockpit floor (2 sets).
Double bracing across the frame bays adjacent to the pilot's seat.
Double bracing across the rear of the pilot's seat support frame.
Double bracing across each vertical fuselage frame.

Done with 0.08 mm Mono-filament, 0.4 mm Nickel-Silver tube and 1:48th scale turnbuckles ('Gaspatch').
The same needs to done on each of the frame bays on each side of the fuselage as well as those under and on top of the fuselage.

Mike

YIKES!!!

Mike that is a veritable spider's web. What an undertaking!! You get max points for patience and persistence!

It's really looking spiffy mate! That should win best of show hands down!!


Best Regards

Un believable, Great work.

Hi all,
The top fuselage frames are cross braced.
Onto the sides now, then the make and fit the top decking panel and finally cross brace the bottom fuselage frames,

Mike

Hi all,
The fuselage side frame bays are now cross braced.
Now to make and fit the top decking panel and finally cross brace the bottom fuselage frames,

Mike

Hi all,
The fuselage rear decking panel fitted.
Now to cross brace the bottom fuselage frames, then it's onto the tail skid assembly,

Mike

Hi all,
The fuselage bottom cross bracing is done, which completes the fuselage bracing.
Also the tail skis has been fitted, with 0.125 mm copper wire suspension springs and 0.2 mm lead wire retention cable.

Now it's onto making the cockpit surround padding and fit the two modified 'Gaspatch' machine guns with their synchronization cables,


Mike

Hi all,
I realized that the fuselage rear decking panel was incorrect.
I made it such that the front edge butted up against the rear of the pilot's seat support frame.
In fact the decking seems to have passed over the seat frame, forming the rear cockpit surround, then onto the top of the cockpit side frames.
After several tries and five broken bracing wires, I think it's just about there now.

Now onto making the padded rim to fit around the cockpit rear decking and after that, the machine guns,

Mike

Mike that must have been one of those claasi, 'OH SH_T" MOMENTS FOR SURE!
Having to redo all those finicky bracing wires!!
I think you owe youself a dram of fine scotch and a break!

The model is looking great mate!

I build a lot of models, mostly in 1/72. You don't get the kind of detail seen here when working in that small a scale, but you can accomplish a lot. I once had someone comment on the rigging on one of my WW1 models, and was asked how I kept track it all. I replied that it wasn't just hit or miss - every single cable has a place to be and a purpose for being there. I've found that as you start complex rigging it actually becomes a lot simpler when you realize that you're running each cable from and to a specific point. It all starts to make sense, and by the time you're done you can look at it and where others might see a mess, you see a tremendous pattern and logic to it all.


I have to agree. It's a stunner.

Hi all,
Both machine guns are now fitted along with their synchronization flexible drives.
These drives are connected between the bottom of the gun breech blocks and the gun synchronization mechanism, fitted to the rear of the engine cam shaft,

Mike

Hi all,
I've added the padding rim around the fuselage decking panel and onto the top of the cockpit side frames.
This was done using 2.0 mm diameter plastic tube which was sanded to form a grip for painting.
Then it was slit along one side and located over the decking and secured in position with thin CA adhesive.
Finally it was primed, painted 'Humbrol' leather (62) and 'Tamiya' Hull Red (XF9), sealed then given a clay wash and finally sealed with 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC-311).


Mike

Hi all,
Tail unit assembled from the 3D printed parts.
Very fragile once separated from the support frame, so should prove interesting.
The elevator was missing the inboard trailing edge profile, presumably missed during printing process.
Therefore I had to make the profiles using 0.8 mm brass tube.

Mike

Mike

Do you have plans to separate the tail and rudder flaps and apply hinges? That would be a real challenge due to those fragile parts.

Hi Rob,
No I've fixed it all in position as it's too weak to be movable.
I'll make dummy hinges etc though, just to add a touch of realism,

Mike

Hi all,
Well the fuselage is completed, apart from fitting the engine exhaust and the propeller.
The Rudder and Elevator control runs have been connected with the turnbuckles under the pilot's seat.
Also the tail plane to fin bracing cable.
The entire fuselage has been weathered and sealed.

So now it's on to the lower wing, followed by scratch building the skeletal undercarriage assembly, which unfortunately is not available as a 3D printed part.

Mike

Mike;

It looks magnificent Sir!! A splendid superior piece of work!

Can I suggest that you "NEVER ATTEMPT TO SHIP IT ANYWHERE" !!!!

Best Regards

Hi all,
The 3D printed lower wing is detailed enough, but as normal there are details that can be added to make it more authentic.
Early production Fokker D.VII aircraft were fitted with bracing tapes that were routed across the wings between the front and rear wing spars and between the rear wing spar and the wing trailing edge.
These tapes were routed in a diagonal ‘zig-zag’ form, up and over each wing rib.
However later production aircraft were fitted with 10 mm square strip wood as replacements for the earlier tapes.
The 3D printed wings represent the later, strip wood version.
Although these strip wood struts can be left to make the model build easier, I've chosen to remove the wings strip wood struts and represent the earlier bracing tapes.

In addition, the two wing halves, when test joined at the centre section spars, showed a higher than expected dihedral angle.
Therefore I had to shave away material from the spars to achieve the correct angle.

Finally the leading edges of both wings were fitted with 'saw tooth' plywood fairings, which will need to be scratch made, as will the trailing edge support wire for attaching the linen covering.

So far:
Spars adjusted.
Strip wood bracing removed.
Diagonal bracing struts added to inner and outer trailing edges.
Holes drilled at the wing strut attachment points for attaching the wings internal cross bracing cables.
Wings scrapped clean of wax support material, assembled and primed.

The upper wing, which is in three sections, will require similar treatment.

Mike

Never realized the internal wing had early and late variations. What source did you reference that from Mike?

Hi Rob,
Don't worry about shipping this - it's staying right here!!
References from various drawings and books, like those below,

Mike

Hi all,
The leading edge plywood 'saw tooth' fairing is tricky to do, but can be done.
Structure drawing of 1/72 scale resized by 160%, then printed, cut out and used as a template on 0.2 mm thick plastic card.
The fairing is test fitted and adjusted where necessary then secured in position using thin CA adhesive.
Starting on the top of the front wing spar then once set, rolling the wing over the fairing and applying adhesive at the same time.,

Mike

Hi all,
The lower wing is nearing completion.
It's been painted with 'Tamiya' base coat then oils for wood effect.
Internal wing bracing with turnbuckles added.
Leading edge 'transportation 'bump stops' added.
Internal double bracing 'zig-zag' tapes installed (instead of the original 'strip wood' struts, which were removed).

I still have the trailing edge wire to install (for attaching the wings linen covering).
Also the final weathering will need to be added


Mike

Amazing work Mike. You give us mortals something to aspire too. I can’t wait to see this one finished.

Mike what are the "leading edge transportation bump stops" and where is that located?

Hi Rob,
When the wings were removed for transportation, they were stacked vertically on the leading edges as they were the strongest edge. 'Bump stops' ('stacking pads') were fitted into the leading edges to keep the leading edge surfaces clear and prevent any damage.
On the wing leading edge, you can just make out these pads, one fitted to each side of the wing, forward from the wing strut mountings.

The lower wing is finished now, with the trailing edge wire fitted and overall 'dumbing down' carried out using 'Alclad' Light Sheen lacquer mixed with 'Tamiya' Smoke (X19).

So now it's on to scratch making the undercarriage fairing and axle assembly (not available as a 3D printed part),

Mike

Mike, so did you carve your initials on a spar, or leave a good luck note tucked in the wing for the pilot? Again, your attention to detail is amazing. Next time I see a model of a DVII I can say, “I see you left off the bump stops.”

Good one MFair, I wish I had thought of that ! It's still do-able!!!


Mike:

Thanks for explaining the bump stops details.

I looked back over all your posts and couldn't find a reference to what the source material was for the wing bracing tape.

Best regards to all

Hi Rob,
Early Fokker D.VII aircraft had tapes between the front and rear wing spars and between the rear spar and trailing edge.
Later aircraft, such as those produced by OAW, replaced the tapes with strip wood.
Other had tapes and strip wood.,

Mike

Mike I didn't properly explain my question. I was interested in what material you used for the tape rather that the source reference material. Was it scratch built tape and if so what did you use?
Curious minds like to know!

Aaah - wrong sauce

It's made from 0.2 mm thick plastic card, cut into thin strips.
Pressed gently with finger tips to form it over the wing ribs then secured in place with thin CA adhesive.

Mike

Hi all,
The undercarriage fairing assembly is basically built.
Made from 0.8 mm and 1.0 mm thick plastic card, 1.2mm, 0.8 mm and 0.5 mm brass rod and tube.
The wheels are hand made by 'Steve Robson' out in Australia.

It's still to be finalized and painted etc.
I'll also need to make the struts as the kit supplied items fit into the kit fairing and therefore are not long enough to attach to the angled support blocks on each side of the exposed axle box ends,

Mike

Thanks for that Mike, I suspected it was some type of ribbon material, but then again as an after thought I suspect the weave would be too course and out of scale.

Those wheels by Steve Robson look amazing and such a small scale at that.

Yes the wheels are something else - hand made using sterling silver for the rims - real works of art.
Obviously not cheap but for this sort of model they're ideal,

Mike

Hi all,
The basic undercarriage assembly is done now.
I still have the undercarriage struts to make and attach before I can fit the assembly to the fuselage frames,

Mike

Hi all,
The lower wing is now installed, with some slight adjustments to clear the fuselage side frames and to give adequate access to the single wing strut mounting location.
Next is the undercarriage, once I've completed making the undercarriage struts from brass tube and rod,

Mike

Hi all,
Front undercarriage struts made using 1.4 mm brass tube and 0.5 mm brass rod, soft soldered for strength,

Mike

Mike, it seems 1.375 tubing would be more to scale. Just an observation As always, masterful work Pard.

Actually Mark I was intending to use 1.375 mm tubing, but sadly I'd run out so was forced to use 1.4 mm tube - I know it's not in-scale but hey ho

Hi all,
Just a lick of paint on the struts and cross bracing to attach and the undercarriage is done,

Mike

I like this paired shot of comparisons Mike. The skinned and unskinned look! Nice touch

Hi all,
I'm calling the undercarriage assembly done.
The wheels are not permanently fitted yet - they'll be the last thing to be fitted.

So now onto the upper wing and struts etc,

Mike

Mike I can hardly wait to see the finished Diorama. It's going to be cracker!!

Hi all,
The upper wing has been assembled and the plywood 'saw tooth' fairing added,

Mike

Hi all,
The upper wing is nearly there.
I just have the ailerons and their control cables and associated pulleys to add, plus the trailing edge wire.
After that it'll be fitting the wing and struts, engine exhaust and propeller, wheels and aileron control cables connected - then that'll be it,


Mike

Hi all,
The aileron outer control cable pulleys are fitted.
Made from photo-etch set intended for the Sopwith Triplane and modified to suit the Fokker D.VII pulleys.
The control lines are loosely routed for now.

Next are the inboard pulleys,

Mike

You are getting so close to finish! Only nine days left until the 14th!
It's been a long build but it is going to be worth it I'm sure!

Best Regards

Hi Rob,
Yeah getting there.
Actually it's the 16th, but its still going to be tight - we'll see,
The display case arrived today so that'll need sorting as well.

Mike

Hi all,
The inner aileron pulleys and the inner wing control lines are done.
Once I've added the trailing edge support wire for the linen covering, it'll be time to tackle fitting of the upper wing,

Mike

Mike it's been like watching a jigsaw puzzle come together. Can't wait to see the whole picture.

Hi Mike
It's been like watching a jigsaw puzzle come together.
I can't wait to see the finished picture.

In fact, how about taking a video by cell phone for the full 360 degree look when you are finished!! Just put the dio on a turntable and video while slowly turning it.
That would be so cool.

Best Regards.

Hi Rob,
Maybe - we'll see.

Trailing edge support wire added,

Mike

Mike, seems you are really close on the current masterpiece. Inspiring work!

Cheers Mark.

Hi all,
The aileron control cable exterior turnbuckles now fitted.
Next step - fit the upper wing,

Mike

Hi all,
Nearly there!!
Upper wing and wing support struts fitted.
Wheels fitted.
Twin aileron control cables (upper wing to cockpit) connected with turnbuckles.
Propeller finished.

I just need to fit the exhaust and propeller and that's it.

Mike

.

Wow! I mean - just wow!

.

Ahh Mike, almost there!

Hi all,
Last bits fitted.
Propeller, exhaust, pilot's foot step and the two rear fuselage rear lift handles.

Just the display case and base to complete this build, but that shouldn't take long to sort out,

Mike

Beautiful work Mike. Thank you for doing these progress reports. I’ve learned so much about the D.VII anatomy just by following your thread. Awesome stuff.

Hi all,
The 'skeletal' Fokker D.VII is finished now.
All I have to do is the display base, which I'll post once it's done.

I know I don't often reply to your generous comments, but rest assured they are very much appreciated,

Mike

Holy Sh-- !
I hate people who can do this sort of thing.

but you forgot the Balsa paper covering and the laggy-band for the motor
amatuers these days.....

This is your best in a long line of exquisite models. Museum quality. Did you track the total number of hours you put into it?

Mike, It looks fantastic! It's been a long road to completion but well worth the effort! I shall be looking closely at those pics for some time to come. I am seriously thinking of screen savers!!

Hope your base comes in time to complete it for the show.

Best Regards

Around 18 weeks for both Fokker D.VII models and associated figures,
Mike

Mike;

Did you get the base for the dio complete yet?

Hi Rob,
Not a great shot but here's the two models on their bases,

Mike

Hi Mike, nicely done!

Did you drill out the mirror base to glue the wheel pins in?

Hi Rb,
No the wheels on both models are real rubber and besides the wheels on the skeletal are way too expensive to drill into.
Both just stand on their bases and are not fixed (lesson learned )

Mike