Pfalz D.IIIa

Hi all,
Thought you might like to see my latest WNW model completed - Pfalz D.IIIa of Hans Muller (12 victories) of Jasta 18, during April 1918.

Now working on a Morane Saulnier Type N of the RFC, during 1916 (same 1:32 scale, but not a WNW model).

Wow, you have a patient hand for that, Sandbagger!
Looking marvellous! I like it how the pilot's face is not painted too much, like some
hobby modellers do - they build a fine model, but make the face look like a carnival mask.
Yours looks reaölistic and human - great job!

Just in case you should not know RODEN aircraft kits - here is a link to their 1:32 scale models.

RODEN WW1 Model Kit 1:32

Absolutely love it!!Wasn´t it too hard to add the wiring and the turnbuckles?

Rigging is tricky - made from 0.12 mm monofilament with the turnbuckles from Gaspatch models with 0.30 mm brass or nickel tube for the cable grips. My first models had turnbuckles that I made from micro brass tubing, but the Gaspatch are good and do save a lot of time.
As you would expect, some of the rigging cables on the finished model slacken off, but are tightened by waving a heated soldering iron very carefully along and close to the rigging line. The heat shrinks the monofilament and tightens the line. Of course, too close and it will melt and break.

Gaspatch turnbuckles...umm, went to check their site and they sure look good!!

beautiful work !! thanks for sharing Sandbagger

by coincidence, check out my latest images in the screenshot thread - very similar livery!

cheers, Ron

Absolutely beautiful work sandbagger

Sandbagger,

Very nicely done Sir!

I'm wondering if you use a clear matte topcoat finish on your pilots clothing. I always did because it helped reduce the shine in some paints. I'm also wondering what brand paints you use. Most of my models were WWII aircraft and armour.

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Wonderful work Sandbagger. The detail is super.

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What Wingut Wings kits would you recommend for a "beginner" Sandbagger?

I use Tamiya acrylics by brush and Iwata airbrush. The gloss, light sheen and matt coats are done using Alclad laquers and by airbrush. Although Alclad are 'hot' chemically, they can be used over acrylics, as long as the acrylic is allowed to thoroughly dry first. I tend to use light sheen for both aircrat and figures.

So far I've made the WNW Pfalx D.XII, Pfalz D.IIIa, SE5a and the Fokker E. I.
I've still the FE2b, DH 2, Sopwith Snipe, Roland D.II and Fokker E. II through E.IV.

I'd guess something without much rigging , like the Junkers models or Fokker D.VII models.
If you want to try rigging, then check out the WNW site. Each model listed shows the instructions where you can check out the page showing the aircrafts rigging. You can then decide which, if any, you might want to tackle.

Amazing work! One of my favourite aircraft and Jastas. It never ceases to amaze me just how some people are able to create such works of art. Just trying to attach those tiny cables would probably be enough to drive me crazy!

Sandbagger the weathering is excellent!

That is where clamps, magnifying glass and tweezers come in handy. the clamps free up your hands to work on the items and the clamps allow you to move the object in many rotations as needed. here is a pic:

Absolutely lovely build Sandbagger! I love that mini dioramas as it complete model. WNW are all grear kits. As someone mentioned Roden offers older Pflaz 1/32 with guns inside fuselage.

Adore your rigging attachments detail. Something I am not good at.

Here is Roden build I made time ago if interested in kit differences, yeah WNW wins on moulding detail and fitting.

http://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=303&t=72919

http://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=69211

Looking forward to see next Sandbagger. I currently finishing Fokker E.V 1/32 from Avis.

That is very well done, Amazing!

A very impressive build Ataribaby - my congratulations.
I see from your build photographs that we both work in very similar ways, especially with using tooth picks and bluetack

Hehe yeah!

Btw if you have your other builds pics i will be grateful to see em. WW1 has never enough inspiration to see how others handle weathering, wood and so on.

Mainly building "cheap" 1/32 Roden WW1 offerings and finished only one WNW so far, Roland DVI, with WNW Fokker DVII in stash.

Beautiful model and thank you for sharing.

Beautiful, thanks for sharing. Especially that newer Pfalz will be my next WNW order.

I see some Kellerkind Miniaturen figures. I love them and use a lot with my kits.

Yes Kellerkind are most choice - I have used others but the problem is that one manufacturer's idea of a figure at 1:32 scale can be different to another manufacturer's scale. I have figures which seem way to tall for the scale.

Here's a couple of Napoleonic models I did some time ago:

WOW love minis as well, just never brave enough to make one without airplane.

Here is my babies, its great to find someone with same interest in 1/32 WWI

Only Roland is WNW, others Roden, Bebe is Special Hobby and Razor is AVIS - some obscure Ukraine company, got that kit at local flea market.

All minis are Kellerkind. Really adore his sculpting of details.

Btw that engraved metal label sheets are awesome.

Sandbagger;

How do you make the name plates and what do you use. I also find the grain and lamination look of the Props amazing. Are they after market or original with kit? Beautiful work overall on your models!!

Ataribaby;

very nice work there! The wiring on the DH2 is a handful!! Did the lozenge come as decal with the kit or some other means?

Lozenge comes with kit, both with Roden or Wingnut Wings. Just both not have best "Historical" colors so sometime I use sand color filter to make it more nice to me or I buy aftermarket lozenge from HGW decals.

http://shop.hgwmodels.cz/cs/17-meritko-132

Wiring on DH2, well no more. Once in lifetime is enough!

I used this guide: http://www.bobsbuckles.co.uk/dh.2-rigging-guide.html

Propelers are base sand color and then make woodgrain with brush and art oil brown color. Laminating layers are just drawn or masked and airbrushed before wood grain process

or there is aftermarket real wood propelers, used that for WNW Roland



here is wooden propelers:

http://wooden-propeller.eshop-zdarma.cz/index.php?category_id=23

Rob:
The plaques are after market - I order them from a UK based company for each model. Same for the acrylic display cases - - made to measure for each model (keeps the dust off).
I now get the props from Dog Craner in the UK - They are hand made and just look better than I could paint.


Atarbaby:
I like very much your weathering techniques and the extra detail you add, like the small boy, engine drip tray, wheels chocks etc.
I agree that some model decals are not weathered (faded) enough - overcoating with airbrushed tones does help reduce the colour and as you said, there are after market decals that will do the job as well.
The DH2 (and I guess the FE2b) look to be a real challenge with the rigging. What do you use for the rigging lines?

Thanks for the links, especially the wood propeller site - might come in handy for me if Doug can't supply the prop I need.

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For RAF flat wires I use this transparent elastic knitting-in

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Prym-Knitting-...g-/281256253289

for german wires and control wires for RAF I use EZ-Line Fine rigging thread - 0,15 mm - Charcoal

http://www.nordlandmodels.com/product/ez-001-fine-rigging-thread-0-15-mm-charcoal:15853/

Both elastic and works like charm and first one costs near nothing. Its same what is over priced RAF rigging on WNW web store.

Acrylic cases are great idea, wife and dust are worst enemy to this stringbags

BTW do you glue planes to stands? Me not as it allows you to take them to short "maintenance" flight from time to time

That Pfalz XII is georgeous. Will be my next WNW order as their new releases will be bit off my price tag for a while - flying boat Felixstowe and Hansa float plane.

Great work SB -

This is a link to a site I go to everyday. It has modelers displaying their work and from time to time they have WWI aircraft. If you follow it some of these folks will melt your brain as they turn a regular model into a museum quality piece with the level of detail and accuracy they build into these.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/47751/

Awesome stuff, good work!

I use 0.12 mm monofilament for rigging as the EZ type material tends to fray when cut and therefore doesn't easily slide through the micro tubing I use as the cable grips at the turnbuckles.
Also I think the monofilament, when tightened, gives the whole model more rigidity than the flexible EZ types.

I do fix the finished model to the display base. I drill 0.8 mm holes into the wheel tyres and tail skids then CA glue lengths of paper clip wire into the holes. I then drill holes into the base and CA glue the wirs to the base.

Thanks for the link - a very good modelling site - those people are good