Joined: Jun 2017 Posts: 3,831RedOneAlpha
Senior Member
RedOneAlpha
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 3,831
LEGE
Originally Posted by ArgonV
How exciting! My stuff should be here next week. Also got the TS-PC base. What pedals did you go with?
The newer T3PM which are bundled with the recent T248 wheel. DBond has them too. These will have to do for now, the ones I wanted were to expensive for now (DC Simracing DC2). There made 40km from were I live.
Win10 Pro(x64), i7 8700k @ 4.7Ghz, 32GB ram DDR4, Sapphire Pulse AMD RX 6700 12GB, M.2 PCIe NVMe (x2) 480GB + 960GB, 447GB SSD´s, Samsung G6 32" , Logitech G13, G502, Warthog HOTAS, CH Pedals, Simagic Alpha Mini, and Formula Extreme FX, DC Simracing DC1 pedals, GT Omega ART cockpit, TrackIR 5.0. AUDIO: Aiyima A07 Max, Topping E50 and L50 stack, Polk Audio Signature Elite ES20 , and Shennheiser HD 560s. DAP: Hiby R3, Hiby Seeds, and iBasso IT01, Sharp MD-MT 80H Minidisc.
The pedals are in! They are used as was stated in the auction, but only just slightly. Going through getting them set up for the position of my gaming chair. I think I want the pedal heads more angled and not as flat faced? Also, I'm NOT mounting this to a rig, so I believe I want to go with softer springs. What is everyone that has the T-LCMs setting in the calibration tool for the force setting?
Congrats on the fine sim racing kit! How do you like them?
Does anyone else have T-LCMs here? Not sure that you aren't the only one. Load cell is a neat concept, braking according to how hard you push, not how far you push, feeling like real brakes. Not tried these myself, but I like the idea.
My pedal board sits at maybe a 30 degree incline? Didn't know how I'd get on with this set up, but it's just perfect. Part of the equation is your seating position, how high or low you're slung. The racing seat I have puts the pedals just right and I like the incline, but I'm also slung pretty low compared to your average computer desk chair. Bolting them down is the final perfect piece of the pedal puzzle, while I perplex this pathetic palooka with my powerful pachydermous percussion pitch. Sorry, I got rolling on the alliteration and couldn't stop. Bugs Bunny quote.
I'm having such a good time returning to sim racing I'm even thinking of going with a new wheel, even though I just bought this one. I like it fine, but I think I'd like a T 300 or even better, better. And my son uses a cheap Logitech which he doesn't like. He's a drifter -- kids dontcha know -- and his wheel doesn't auto-center like the T-248 does when you let go of it and evidently that's 'really important for drifting, dad'
So I'm kicking it around and if I do I plan to keep the T3PMs and give Ben the 248 and the T3PAs that come with the 300. But it's just an idea and not set on this wheel anyway.
No, now go away or I shall taunt you a second time!
Joined: Jun 2017 Posts: 3,831RedOneAlpha
Senior Member
RedOneAlpha
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 3,831
LEGE
Originally Posted by ArgonV
Thank you! That'll give me a good baseline to start at.
The wheel should be here tomorrow. Can't wait!
Your welcome.
I suggest you get, If you don´t have one already that is, a dedicated power strip with a on/off switch for the wheel base. It turns out that even If the wheel base Is not In use with your PC off, It still drains a bit of power from the supplied power source. I was hearing a very faint buzz while all my gear was turned off on my desk, at first I could not pin point were It was coming from (I have two PC´s In my desk area), until I put my ear real close to the wheel base chasis. So best thing to do (If you want to), Is to switch off your power strip were your wheel power supply Is plugged Into. There´s other reasons to do so that I will get Into once I do my personal review (wheel will self calibrate each time you turn on the PC).
I did get In touch with TM support about this to find out If this was a normal behavior for this wheel base, but so far no reply. Others who I asked seem to have the same behavior, so It might be a common thing for the TS-PC wheel base.
Win10 Pro(x64), i7 8700k @ 4.7Ghz, 32GB ram DDR4, Sapphire Pulse AMD RX 6700 12GB, M.2 PCIe NVMe (x2) 480GB + 960GB, 447GB SSD´s, Samsung G6 32" , Logitech G13, G502, Warthog HOTAS, CH Pedals, Simagic Alpha Mini, and Formula Extreme FX, DC Simracing DC1 pedals, GT Omega ART cockpit, TrackIR 5.0. AUDIO: Aiyima A07 Max, Topping E50 and L50 stack, Polk Audio Signature Elite ES20 , and Shennheiser HD 560s. DAP: Hiby R3, Hiby Seeds, and iBasso IT01, Sharp MD-MT 80H Minidisc.
Ah good to know. When my wheel isn't in use, I disconnect the whole thing entirely (it really gets in the way). I'll probably coil the wheel's power "brick" up on my gaming chair and unplug the power cord from the outlet when not in use - we'll see.
Joined: Jun 2017 Posts: 3,831RedOneAlpha
Senior Member
RedOneAlpha
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 3,831
LEGE
Originally Posted by ArgonV
Ah good to know. When my wheel isn't in use, I disconnect the whole thing entirely (it really gets in the way). I'll probably coil the wheel's power "brick" up on my gaming chair and unplug the power cord from the outlet when not in use - we'll see.
Great, just for the record, here below Is TM reply with regards to the power supply...
Hello Mike,
Thank you for your enquiry and for contacting our Thrustmaster technical support.
You are describing a low buzzing noise inside the unit when it is connected to your computer USB and to the power outlet. You can hear this noise even when not using the wheelbase.
We inform you that it is normal : when the wheel is connected to both the USB and the power outlet, it is then "On", and draws a bit of power, even if you are not actively using it. In such cases, we would advise to disconnect the wheel USB, simply to save energy.
We wish you a pleasant day and remain at your disposal for any further information.
Win10 Pro(x64), i7 8700k @ 4.7Ghz, 32GB ram DDR4, Sapphire Pulse AMD RX 6700 12GB, M.2 PCIe NVMe (x2) 480GB + 960GB, 447GB SSD´s, Samsung G6 32" , Logitech G13, G502, Warthog HOTAS, CH Pedals, Simagic Alpha Mini, and Formula Extreme FX, DC Simracing DC1 pedals, GT Omega ART cockpit, TrackIR 5.0. AUDIO: Aiyima A07 Max, Topping E50 and L50 stack, Polk Audio Signature Elite ES20 , and Shennheiser HD 560s. DAP: Hiby R3, Hiby Seeds, and iBasso IT01, Sharp MD-MT 80H Minidisc.
The feeling of the new wheel and pedals is great! My driving is already improved. I am however having a slight issue: During some heavy use and on rough roads where the FFB is strong, I am seeing what I term "ghost inputs" from some of the buttons of my wheel. I'm going to check the pins on the swapable rim - and see if they are loose, bent or maybe broken.
Anyone else seen anything like that? I did some research, and this apparently happened a lot with the T300 base and rims.
I have not, but congrats on the new kit man! That's a sweet setup and hope to see you out on the track.
The thing that comes to mind about your trouble is what is known as 'clipping' where the FFB calls for more strength than can be delivered. Probably unrelated, but the common approach is to set FFB strength lower than max, around say 75% to cover for this.
I don't think this makes ghost buttons so probably the wrong issue.
No, now go away or I shall taunt you a second time!
Joined: Jun 2017 Posts: 3,831RedOneAlpha
Senior Member
RedOneAlpha
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 3,831
LEGE
Your very well surrounded ArgonV
Congrats on your new set-up! Where do you have the "drink" button map to? Remember, If you drive don´t drink!
With regards to your ghosting, yes It a good Idea to check your pins as you say. What I do, so there´s no USB conflicts (which could be the Issue), Is have all my flight gear, and offboard audio recording gear hooked up to a USB hub that has Individual on/off buttons. My TS-PC power plug Is plugged to a on/off power socket, so when ever I turn that off, the whole wheel set goes offline, and all I have to do Is turn on whatever I have plugged Into my USB hub to get those online. If I want to use my wheel, I turn off whatever Is on on my USB hub, and then power up my wheel from It´s on/off power socket. If I want to fly, I do the opposed.
You might also consider getting some gloves, basically because these alcantara wheels can get ugly and dirty due to sweat and gripping over time. At the moment I am using a pair of MBT Spiuk gloves, but these are winter gloves so I am looking for something lighter like maybe the Sparco Meca 3 gloves. MBT gloves can do you fine though, as long as there light and not to heavy padded.
Win10 Pro(x64), i7 8700k @ 4.7Ghz, 32GB ram DDR4, Sapphire Pulse AMD RX 6700 12GB, M.2 PCIe NVMe (x2) 480GB + 960GB, 447GB SSD´s, Samsung G6 32" , Logitech G13, G502, Warthog HOTAS, CH Pedals, Simagic Alpha Mini, and Formula Extreme FX, DC Simracing DC1 pedals, GT Omega ART cockpit, TrackIR 5.0. AUDIO: Aiyima A07 Max, Topping E50 and L50 stack, Polk Audio Signature Elite ES20 , and Shennheiser HD 560s. DAP: Hiby R3, Hiby Seeds, and iBasso IT01, Sharp MD-MT 80H Minidisc.