Hi all,
I'm now starting on the 'Wingnut Wings' 1:32 scale model of the Roland D.VIa fighter.
This aircraft was unusual in that its fuselage had a fuselage clad in overlapping plywood planks, known as ’lapstrake’, which was similar to that used on clinker built boats.
This proved to be as strong, but lighter than existing constructions methods provided, which was an important factor for a fighter aircraft.
Also the lower wings were located under, not into, the lower fuselage.

It's the Roland D.VIa, Serial No: 3615/18 during 1918 (Jasta unknown).

Mike

Died in an air race, if I remember right

I've always like the Roland but how did it compare to the Albatross and Pfalz?

It was faster, much higher rate of climb, and more manoueverable, arguably second only to the BMW DVII. Other than that, a dog.
Harder to manufacture, only available in limited numbers, coming from a factory that was prioritised for license built versions of other machines.
Cheers,
shredward

I sometimes feel high level politics gets in the way of logical assessment .
Take for example how top brass in the military over and over again tried to scuttle the A10 warthog before they even had an approved replacement in production. And that was an effective ground support aircraft that front line units loved.

Hi all,
A few updates.
I'm working on the fuselage internals and the engine.
The fuselage halves were two-tone, as were the cockpit side frames.
The engine bearer frame was a single colour.
As I normally do, the slight weathering effect was done using the 'Flory Models' dark dirt clay wash.
The rudder, elevator and ailerons control lines were added using 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament and blackened 0.4 mm diameter tubes.
Other detail, such as pipes, seat harness etc will be added after the cockpit assembly is built and before closing up the fuselage.

The next stage, after completing the engine is to assemble the fuselage,

Mike







Here's the engine.
As most of the engine won't be seen, it's just the basic engine with the addition of ignition leads and the pipe at the front cylinder.
The replacement exhaust pipe is from 'ReXx',

Mike



 

...as if that ever affected your detail! still looks beautiful

Hi all,
Just a quick update.
The cockpit structure is now complete and ready to be fitted into the closed up fuselage.
I had to sand the outer surface of the two cockpit side frames and cockpit frames quite a bit, as for some reason the fuselage wouldn't close up fully with the cockpit test fitted.
I know tolerances are tight, especially on WNW kits so I made sure there was no paint etc on any mating faces.
Even so the gap at the underside seam of the fuselage was large, indicating something wasn't fitted correctly.
Everything look correct so I'm not sure where the obstruction was - probably around the fuel tank area.

Anyway, it's sorted and ready to move onto closing up the fuselage,

Mike

Hi all,
The fuselage is now closed up with the cockpit front decking panel fitted.
I'm replacing the kit supplied machine guns with resin equivalent weapons from 'GasPatch'.
These needed to be modified slightly so that would fit down and into the weapon slots in the front decking panel.
This required the removal of the front mounting and synchronizing cable from the underside of the breech blocks.
In addition the lower part of the cocking mechanism on the right side of the left weapon was removed.

Now it's onto preparing the fuselage for the application of the 'ProperPlane' wood effect decal set for this aircraft,

Mike

Hi all,
The wood effect decals with 'scarf' joint plywood joints (from 'ProperPlane') are now done.
These are probably the most difficult decals I've applied.
The 'scarf' joint strips and the fin, rudder and lower wing fairing were tricky, but the fuselage decals were something else.
They are four separate fuselage long single decals.
Not 'cookie' cut and with no marking or transparent areas for the fuselage raised details, such as access panels, pulleys and fittings.
Cutting these into sections was not really feasible as any slight overlap of the decal joins would show up as dark (double thickness of the decal.
Therefore when you lay down the decal, it rest on top of all the raised detail, like one pole holding up a tent.
This causes wrinkles and fold over of the decals.
I eventually worked around the problem but not without a few tears (patched) and wrinkles (fortunately on the underside), but these are certainly not for the less experienced modeler.

The decals are similar to those from 'Aviattic' in transparecy, but are not as strong.
They were laid onto a base coat of 'Tamiya' Dark Yellow (XF59) to darken the effect.

Next up is creating the masks for painting the large yellow arrow marking along the sides of the fuselage, which of course will cover a lot of the decals,

Mike

You did well not to waste the decals. Having looked closely I can see quite clearly what a difficult task that was. I shudder at the thought of undertaking it.

Looks really well done, what I can see. Seems like the decals settled down quite well on the raised surfaces around the access port near the tail and on the front forward section.

Best Regards

Mike, this takes the cake Sir! The scarf joints are over the top. Well done! I’m with Mr. Wiggins, she would have been thrown against the wall before I finished that job. Well done mate.

Thanks guys.
There is some doubt now over the authenticity of this particular colour scheme.
It seems that it was based on what is apparently the only known photograph of Emil Schäpe seated in a Roland fighter.
The Windsock Data file states that he is seated in a Roland D.VI but doesn't state whether it is a D.VIa or the later D.VIb version.
The photograph shows what appears to be the top of a multi-headed arrow marking on the side of the fuselage.
The late Dan-San Abbott interpreted this as the yellow arrow and this seems to have been accepted by painters and illustrators, such as Bob Pearson's profile I'm basing this model on.

The doubts centre on three things - The aircraft in the photograph is a later Roland D.VIb (not a D.VIa), the arrow marking was a lightning bolt marking (not an arrow) and the fuselage was not varnished wood but in fact painted.
I've looked again at the photograph and to me at least, the fuselage marking looks more like an arrow head that lightning bolts.
Also I believe wood grain can be seen on the fuselage planking, although it is very faint. That said this was plywood strips, which wouldn't have much wood grain as such.
As to whether this is a D.VIa or a D.VIb is difficult to tell as the main differences were the D.VIb had a different engine and radiator cowl under the nose of the aircraft, neither of which can be seen on the photograph.
One possible clue for it being a D.VIb is that the two machine guns have extended cocking handles, which from other photographs the D.VIa didn't (standard cocking handles).
Maybe one day someone will come up with photographic or documentary evidence to settle these doubts,

When I build a model I like to try where possible to apply colour schemes that are not often modeled, which is why I chose this particular scheme.
I also didn't want to cover the wood effect decals with too much paintwork.
However, given the uncertainty of this colour scheme I've decided to switch the scheme to the Roland D.VIa, Serial No. 3615/18, which had no personal or Jasta fuselage markings.

Mike



 

I have seen many of Dan San Abott's interpretations to be revised by recent research.
I wouldn't take his opinion in color shemes interpretation as the holy bible, like it was taken by modellers and illustrators a few years back.

Hi all,
The basic fuselage is now finished.
As I said in the previous posts, the original colour scheme I was planning to do is in doubt, as to its authenticity.
In addition, any masking or masking tape laid onto these decals, no-matter how gently, started to lift the decals.
Having spent time and effort applying the wood effect decals, I didn't want to risk destroying them with masking.
There I chose a an authentic scheme that has no personal or unit markings.

The metal fittings were brush painted with 'Tamiya' Grey Green (XF76).
Padding was 'Humbrol' Leather (62) with hightlights of 'Tamiya' Hull Red (XF9).
Other metal fittings were 'Mr. Colour' Stainless Steel (213) and 'Tamiya' Black (X18)
'Weathering applied with 'Flory Models' Dark Dirt clay wash.
Sealing coat is 'Alclad' Light Sheen (311).

Now onto preparing the wings, ailerons, tail plane, rudder and elevators for the lozenge decals,

Mike

Looks beautiful Mike. Can't wait to see the finished product.

Hi all,
Just a quick update.
The 'Aviattic' four colour faded decals have been applied along with the kit decals.
The lozenge decals were applied on a white, pre-shaded gloss base coat.
The next step it to seal the decals with a clear semi-matte before applying the weathering wash.
Then onto pre-rigging the wings,

Mike

.

wow - - I mean - - just wow

All those metal fittings against that lapstrake fuselage is over the top!

.

Fantastic work indeed!

Hi all,
Subtle weathering applied and sealed.
As usual I used 'Flory' Dark Dirt fine clay wash and sealed it with 'Alclad' Light Sheen lacquer (ALC-311).
So now it's onto some sub-assembly and pre-rigging,

Mike

Hi all,
Apart from the cross bracing wires, the landing gear is complete.
The lozenge wheel covers were cut out using a 'Thinnerline' circle cutter.
I'm now working on pre-rigging, the first of which are the aileron control lines.
These are 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament and 0.4 mm diameter tubes, chemically blackened.
Turnbuckles are the metal 1:48th scale from 'GasPatch'.
Holes of 0.2 mm diameter were drilled through the ends of the upper wing control levers (for the rigging lines).
These can't be finished until the upper wing has been fitted.
Now onto the rest of the pre-rigging,

Mike

Hi all,
All of the pre-rigging of lines is now done and ready to be attached to the various parts of the model before assembly starts.
The tricky areas were the rudder and elevator, which need to be rigged before assembly starts.
All turnbuckles still need their centre section painted,

Mike

Hi all,
The actual aircraft model is more or less complete now.
However, I'm still waiting for the figures from 'Model Cellar' to arrive from the USA.
So for now this model completion is hold.
A few shots of the fitted 'ProperPlane' propeller and 'ReXx' exhaust.
Of all the rigging, the trickiest were the aileron control cables from their levers in the upper wing.

So, whilst waiting for the figures, I can start thinking of the next model to start?

Mike

Hard to believe we aren't looking at a restored Roland in a museum.
Cheers,
shredward

I wholeheartedly agree, Shredward!

The wood paneling (among many other things) looks fantastic!

Mike, That is another excellent model you have completed. Cudos! what is the material of the wheel covers made of? Is it Decal?

You stated, "So, whilst waiting for the figures, I can start thinking of the next model to start?"
How about creating some more shelving display cases! You must be getting rather strapped for space by now!

How about an updated pic of your current shop arrangement and display.

Best Regards

Hey Ted,
Hope you and yours are keeping well and safe.
I know from our skinning days you have access to data of all sorts.
I wonder, do you have anything (data, profiles etc) on the Fokker D.II?

Mike

Hi Rob,
Yes I cut the wheel covers from spare 'Aviattic' decal paper.
No still have plenty of display shelving, although the 'stash' of unmade kits is taking up most of the spare display areas.





Mike

Thanks for posting the pics. I can see you have some space to spare for awhile yet. Nice to see the setup again. Thanks

Forget the stash. Look at all the tools!!! I can count at least 3 magnifying glasses. 23 pairs of tweezers. You probably have more sandpaper than toilet paper. Don’t mix them up!
And is that a Special Hobby kit of the Fokker D.II in question I see in the corner?

.

I want to go to there

.

Modelling is it's own rabbit hole, I see.Superb work, Sandbagger. Thanks for letting us look over your shoulder as you bring these planes back to life.

Me too!!!!

Hi all,
Heh he - solitude in the cave.
I'm only using one of the LED magnifier's - one is a bit small and the other, whilst it works OK, has a crack at the base of the lense (didn't want it falling off onto a model).
Yes eagle eye 'Fullofit' - it is indeed the Special Hobby Fokker D.II - the next model I'll be starting,

Mike

Road Trip !!!

Wow! It almost seems like you are building them faster, yet more detailed each time. Have you built any of the Gotha bombers?

Hi 'Cody',
Not yet but I have three in my stash.
The 1:32nd scale Wingnut Wings Gotha G.1 (UWD) float plane, the Gotha G.IV land based bomber.
The wingspan of the G.1 (UWD) completed is over 25 inches (63cm) and G.IV comes in at nearly 30 inches (74cm).
I also have a 1:48th scale Gotha G.V.

If I ever get the room to display, I'll build them, along with the Felixstowe, AEG and other larger models,

Mike

I'm pulling for a room expansion. I'd love to see you work your magic on that Gotha float plane.

Wow, Mike that workshop! I don't let my wife see pictures of work spaces that clean and well-organized! Someday, maybe. It's an impressive array of tools to be sure. I hope to do some modeling when I retire - been picking at some (flying) model rockets here and there - grandkids love them - but there is just no time. I'm picky about details, but pickiness has to match abilities to get the kind of results you provide.

Just a question, do you airbrush with oil based, acrylic, or both? My beloved hates the smell of the rattle cans. It gets into the house even though the shop/storage room has no cold air return. If I could find a good line of acrylics to airbrush with, it'd also save me wearing a charcoal filter respirator.

Hi all,
Yes I want to hit one one the larger model at some stage.
As for painting, I tend to stick to airbrushing acrylics, 'Tamiya' mainly.
I've used lacquers a few times, but tend to use a lot.
Lacquers are better as they dry quicker and are more hard wearing.
Acrylics are good but need thinning and for airbrushing, can tend to build up on the needle tip and nozzle, which can cause spitting of the paint.
Rattle cans are OK for larger spraying of single colours but not much use for finer areas as they can't be controlled.
Whatever you airbrush, you really should wear a respirator of the correct type and use an extraction system such as a booth to draw away the fumes.
Any substances entering the lungs, acrylics, lacquer whatever, is not good.

Mike

Hi all,
Today the 'Model Cellar' figures finally arrived from The States, so they've been painted now.
I'm just waiting for the display case to arrive, hopefully tomorrow.
Then I can wrap this one up and post the completed shots,

Mike

Mike those two figures are excellent detailed molds!! Have you used "Model Cellar" figures before?

Hi Rob,
Yes on a few models but I have many more of theirs in my stash of around 150 figures,

Mike

Hi all,
Here's the completed model of the Roland D.VIa, Ser No: 3615/18 during 1918 (Pilot and Jasta not known).
Thanks for following this build and for you encouraging comments,

Mike

Absolutely brilliant Mike, fantastic detail and workmanship.

Mike, I have run out of superlatives to describe your work so we will start over. Absolutely fantastic!

Anyone can slap a kit together. Mike's work is so far above the pale as to beggar description! (As a friend of mine born in cornwall used to say...)

Really beautiful work and composition Mike.
This one is truly special.

Regards

Fabulous piece of work, and an aircraft not often seen, so thanks. They say the devil is in the detail and the details are fantastic.

Absolutely beautiful - love the workshop too.

WM

Your work is fantastic! Each aircraft is unique, and the stories you tell while building it are a joy. I would say something as mundane as "Keep up the good work", but it seems that's what you do with each aircraft. Splendid.

Wow! Beautiful work. That wood fuselage looks real. Well done!

Wow @Sandbagger, what a detail!
And you did need only 4 weeks for the work (I estimate it from your first post till today)? I would need months ... for the first try ; then months for the second . With the third I would get it probably (roughly 1 year later)

And all your models on side 2 … great!


Greetings and go on!

Steve, he barely stops long enough between models to even take a breath!!

And if the parts don't get delivered on time, he starts the next one before he's completely finished with this one.

Wonderful work as usual Mike. Thanks for letting us watch the work progress. I must say, the wood decals really came out especially well. In the pictures, the lighting/coloring between adjacent boards make it look like you fitted the wood slats individually.

Sandbagger - just wonderful - thank you for sharing

Beu...ti...ful!