Hi all,
Normally I never work more than one model at a time, but I'm waiting for decals to arrive for my 'Aviatik 'Berg' D.1 build.

Therefore I thought I'd make a start on another 1:32 scale 'HPH Models' resin kit.
This is the Italian 'Macchi M-5 single seat float plane fighter.
I know already there may be some areas of this model that will need some attention, so we'll see how this one goes,

Mike

Oooh, the Italian theatre!!!
Maybe OBD is watching!!!

Hush your mouth child!
And glad to see your keeping busy SB. We’ll be watching for pics.

Oh, Porco Rosso...

Hi all,
I've removed all of the major parts from their resin backing sheets or blocks and cleaned away any residue and flash.
The fuselage fin support is moulded with a slight curve on the top edge, which needed to be flattened.
There were no substantial 'blow holes' on any of the parts, but there were a few rough spots, especially under the rear of the fuselage. It looked like it had been filed to remove resin?
The main problem to sort was that the various struts have steel reinforcing struts moulded inside, which should protrude from the ends of each strut for location into the model.
However most struts had at least one that only protruded from one end. I had to drill a 0.5 mm diameter hole into the end of the strut, where I thought the pin should have exited.
Once the end of the pin was seen I carefully twisted and pushed the pin up through the strut until it protruded from the end.
Tricky as you know how brittle resin can be when stressed - however it worked.

The next step is to 'open up' the cockpit and two forward ports in the top of the fuselage, which by the way is moulded mostly as a solid piece so is pretty heavy!!

Mike

Hi all,
My research is throwing up more apparent anomalies - this time with the flight controls.
The kit instructions show both the rudder and elevator control 'cables' exiting from an open aperture in the fuselage support fairing for the tail plane and fin/rudder assembly.
These cables are attached to the rudder control horns at the base of the rudder itself and to control horns only under the elevator halves.
However it seems that:
The rudder cables exited the fuselage at the base of the support fairing and were routed back to the rudder control horns, which were in fact attached the rudder post and below the rudder assembly.
The elevator 'cables' it seems were more likely to be a push/pull rod which was connected to the elevator control horns only under the elevator halves. This method of control would only require control horns on one side of the elevator as it was a push or pull control.
Finally the model does not have aileron control cable exit openings in the rear decking behind the pilot, from where the cables were routed up and into the underside of the upper wing.
As an aside the model does not have the filler cap for the fuel tank, which should be located at the right side at the top of the rear decking panel.

This is all detailed, with illustrations etc, in the PDF build log I'm compiling as I go along.

However before I sort that lot out I need to 'fettle' the tail unit as the there are a few issues to be corrected there as well,

Mike

Hi all,
I've 'fettled' the basic tail unit.

Fuselage support fairing re-profiled and drilled.
Tail plane drilled.
Fin re-profiled and pinned.
Rudder pinned.
Elevator halves pinned.
Rudder control line exit holes in fuselage drilled.
Support fairing aperture opened up for elevator controls.
Rear fuselage notched for rudder post.
Rudder post added to rudder.
Photo-etch rudder control horn added.
Assembly all test fitted.

Just elevator control horns then its on to the cockpit end,

Mike

Looks good! I wish Macchi M-5 was in WOFF . The old seaplanes have some really interesting and varied designs.

Mike, you sure don’t let any dust settle on you tail! No pun intended. A very interesting subject. Looking forward to seeing the next beauty from the Sandbagger Aircraft Co.

Hi all,
A little more progress.
The ailerons have been rounded off at the leading edges and pinned to the upper wing for animation.
The fuselage support fairing for the tail plane/elevator/fin and rudder has been hollowed out to allow the elevator controls to be fitted from inside the fairing.
I've replaced the elevator control horns, which seemed over scale, with two from a 'Parts' 1:48th scale set.
The cockpit area and ports in the decking have been opened up,

Mike

Hi all,,
Just a few updates for the Macchi.
Engine support bearers with added photo-etch bearer plates (kit part), cross bracing anchors (Gaspatch) and added nuts (RB Motion).
Also drilled out three lightening holes into the resin top struts and 'opened up' the fasteners around the engine cowls and the nail heads on the top of the forward fuselage.
The kit now supplies alternative wing floats but no support struts, so these were made from soft soldered 0.7 mm diameter brass tube.
I've also added all of the rigging points around the aircraft.

Now it's onto scribbing in the wood panel lines onto the fuselage,,

Mike

Hi all,
Not represented in the kit is the fuel filler for the tank.
The initial versions of this aircraft were based on the Lohner T.1, which had an oval fuel tank, connected by a filler tube to a filler cap on the decking panel.
However the production Macchi M.5 had a cylindrical fuel tank. Drawings of this aircraft don't show a filler tube to the decking panel.
Photographs instead show what seems to be a cover plate over an aperture in the decking panel.
My assumption is that when this cover plate was removed, it gave access to the filler cap located on the tank itself.

Mike

Hi all,
Just a couple of updates.
The fuel filler cap access panel has been added and is now 'dished' into the decking panel, as seen in the previous photograph.
Also the model had a pre-moulded circular access panel on the left side of the rear decking panel.
As I can't find any evidence that it existed on this aircraft, I've assumed it was supposed to represent the fuel filler cap access panel.
If so it was the wrong shape and size and on the wrong side of the decking panel.
I've removed it. If I'm wrong it can easily be re-instated.
I've built the wood trestles and beaching trolley, although they need to be cleaned, stained etc and have the photo-etch parts added.

I'm off for a two week break tomorrow so no more updates until I get back,

Mike

Make sure the right fore engine bearing strut is thicker/wider than the other three!

Hi all,
As my build of the Austro-Hungarian Aviatik 'Berg' D.I is complete (apart from the display case), it's time for me to get back to the Macchi M.5 build.
Thanks to input from other modellers I have more information that I'll need to include in this build,

Mike

.

You are a non-stop masterpiece-building machine, Sir.

.

Hi all,
I thought I get back into the Macchi M.5 by hitting the beaching trolley and trestles first.
The four tie rings on the corners of the beaching trolley are metal rings.
The photo-etch parts supplied in the kit are flat and two-D.
Therefore I cut away the 'rings' from the photo-etch parts and replaced them with rings of 0.5 mm diameter lead wire.
I also modified the photo-etch tie ring holders to suit the replacement rings.

Also in the photograph you can see protective padding, which I'll be adding to the trolley and trestles.

Mike

Hi all,
The beaching trolley and support trestles are done.
The metal wheel rims were annealed to make them easier to bend and to give a better 'used' look.
The wood beaching trolley and trestles were stained with 'AK Interactive' wood wash, then sealed with 'Alclad' Flat (ALC314).
The top padding was represented with 'Tamiya' Rubber Black (XF85) and algae staining by water based ‘Derwent’ Inktense 24 pencils.
Wear on the padding was from sponging 'Tamiya' weather set E (green) and dirt on the axle from 'Flory Models' dark dirt wash,

Mike

Hi all,
True to form this kit has already shown problems.
The instructions indicate where the forward bulkhead and pilot's seat support should be located.
The bulkhead locates on the hull bottom (effectively the cockpit floor).
If the instructions are followed, it will result in the hull bottom not fitting into the fuselage as the bulkhead would be too far forwards.
The pilot's seat support location is such that, when fitted, the pilot's seat is too far rearwards in the cockpit, so needs to be moved forwards on the seat support.
This means the control column is then too close to the seat.

The forward bulkhead is shown in the correct location.
The pilot's foot boards assembly may need to be modified to move the control column forward and away from the pilot's seat

Mike

Hi all,
I've cut away the centre foot board and rear cross member on the hull floor. This allows the control column to be positioned more realistically, otherwise it would be too close to the seat.
Also allows fitting of the 'V' shaped seat support.
A notch was cut into the centre cross member on the hull floor to allow the torque bar of the control column to be adhered to the hull floor (better support)
These changes will allow the control column to be positioned further away from the front of the pilot's seat,

Mike

Hi all,
I've modified the pilot's foot boards and seat support to:
Cut away the centre foot board and rear cross member on the hull floor. This allows the control column to be positioned more realistically, otherwise it would be too close to the seat.
Added more lightening holes in the seat back, as per the official drawing.
Added the 'V' shaped support (made from thick paper) below the seat. This also housed the control column torque tube, aileron control bell crank and aileron control pulley and control cables.
Added nail head indentations to the foot board to cross member joints.

Mike

Hi Mike;

I notice in the line drawing that the seat seems to have a rolled edging on it but your seat doesn't. Is this something you plan to address. It looks like the model seat is somewhat thicker than scale. Am I wrong in my assumptions?

Best Regards

Hi Rob,
No you are correct.
There's still a lot of detail to do for the cockpit area, including thinning and roll edging the seat as well as adding the bulk head seat fixing at the top of the seat.
Also the seat needs to have the access for the seat belts to pass through, as the kit instructions show them positioned over the sides of the seat, not through it,

Mike

Thanks Mike, for the clarification. Who is the kit maker? I seem to have missed that. I know you stated "HPH" but I don't recognize the initials.

Hi Rob,
'HPH Models' - they are a Czech company.
They only produce resin kits, but in 1:18, 1:32, 1:48 and 1:72 scale.
They'll also make custom models.
They're not cheap but do have some models not available elsewhere,

Mike

HPH Models

Hi all,
Pilot's seat modified:

Thickness of seat back reduced.
Seat belt slots added.
Seat back rolled edge added (0.4 mm lead wire.

Mike

Hi all,
The rear edge of the cockpit rim was fitted with shoulder padding which is not in the kit.
I represented this padding using 'Milliput' putty. Once it has fully cured I'll clean it up.

The photo-etch supplied with the kit has part 19, which is intended to represent a curved support for the top of the pilot’s seat, although I could not find any references to this type of seat support.
However photographs do show a fixture connecting the top, rear edge of the seat to the rear bulkhead of the cockpit.
I represented this fixing using 0.5 plastic rod.

The inlet and exhaust valves on the 'Isotta Fraschini' V4B engine are operated by an overhead shaft.
The kit shaft is moulded as one shaft. The actual engine had three separate shafts.
Also the shaft mounting to the engine do not align.
I'll correct by cutting away the mountings from the shaft then drill out the three segments and insert brass tubes.

Mike

Seat looks much better now Mike.

Regards

Hi all,
The valve operation on the 'Isotta Fraschini' V4B engine is strange by comparison to other in-line engines of the period.
Normally the inlet and exhaust valves on each cylinder would be operated from a single overhead 'camshaft'.
However photographs and drawing for this engine show three separate shafts, each operating the valves for its cylinder bank.
I can only assume the drive for the three shafts is located below them in the lower half of the overall housing, which is not represented on the kit part.
The kit part, including the inlet manifolds seems to have been modelled more on that fitted, for example, on the Daimler-Mercedes in-line engines.



I've modified the overhead operating shaft by cutting it into the three sections, removing the kit shaft and replacing it with 1.8 mm diameter tubing.
This required some re-profiling of the operating shaft mountings at each end of the engine (radiator and propeller shaft ends), including 2 mm extension to fit to the end vertical drives.
The tubes still need to be blocked at each end as the shafts were solid, not tubular.



This has also shown up several other areas of the engine that require attention (so far):
Both inlet manifolds and the two carburettors are incorrectly moulded - the manifolds too long and wrong shape - the carburettors are joined, but in fact were separately located.
No spark plugs location.
No water pump supplied in the kit.

Mike

Yikes....lots of work to do!

Hi all,
The radiator assembly done.
This needs to be done now and added into the radiator housing and engine bottom fairing.
Then I can start to work on the missing components at the forward end of the engine, such as magnetos, pipes etc,

Mike

Hi all,
Work continues on modifying the kit engine to represent what the engine actually looked like.
I've now added a 'camshaft' below the 3 vale lever shafts from 1.8 mm diameter tube.
Also added a pair of 'Taurus' magnetos and a drive shaft (from the spares box).
Finally the drive at the rear end of the engine (1.0 mm tube and drive head modified from spares).

It's all a bit rough at the moment and I still need to add water pump and if possible and oil pump, plus their associated pipes (where possible).
Also the ignition lead support tube etc.

Mike

Hi all,
The engine was fitted with a water pump for the cooling system.
On the actual engine the pump was located forward (radiator end) of the engine, below the magnetos and engine sump/crank case joint.
I wanted to represent the water pump and its pipe work, but due to space restrictions, I had to locate it higher on the engine than was actually the case.

The kit engine has a pronounced 'step' in the engine sump at the end facing the radiator (forward end). This 'step' is intended to fit under the installed radiator.
I've cut away this 'step' and fitted two propeller shaft housings from my spares box to recreate the previously rounded end of the sump.
To one side I've added a modified water pump, again from my spares box.

Still more to do - plugs and wiring, ignition lead support tubes, oil filler pipes and what pipe work and controls I can fit.
The whole assembly still needs cleaning up and painting of course.

Mike

Hi all,
On each side of the engine are flat section tubes that are attached at the bottom of the cylinder heads.
These tubes retain and support the six ignition leads on each side of the engine.
The kit supplies photo-etch parts which need to be bent to represent the two support tubes.
However, when created, these photo-etch tubes are much larger than shown in the photographs.
Also, once bent over, they create a flat, double thick 'plate' rather than a flat section tube.
Therefore I decided to create the two support tubes using micro-tube.

Two brass tubes of 1.6 mm diameter, annealed to soften them then semi-flattened in smooth jaw vice.
The ends were filed to a 60 degree angle then two holes of 0.5 mm diameter drilled into the inboard sides.
Brass pins of 0.5 mm diameter were secured in these holes and corresponding location holes drilled into the base of the cylinder banks.


Mike

Lemme see. You annealed the tube (or did you buy it that way?), flattened it, and drilled an .020" hole in it? With what, a laser? I have pin vice, but I've never seen a bit that small!
You make it sound so easy, and I'm like-


Simply amazing work.

I swear Mike, you do such beautiful and detailed work that for a second I thought the engine photo was your model. In fact, I'm not so sure it isn't.

Thanks guys.
You can obtain drills that are as small as 0.2 mm diameter - I have drills from 0.2 mm increasing in size by 0.1 mm up to 1.0 mm diameter.
The micro-tube or micro-rod can be either Brass, Nickel-Silver or Aluminium and in diameters of 0.1 mm upwards.
I heat anneal photo-etch parts (over a cigarette lighter flame) to discolour and soften the thin metal, making it more pliable for bending.
I do the same to Brass tubing to stop it from cracking at the stress areas when being crushed to form aerofoil or flatter shapes.


Mike

just awesome.............

Hi all,
I believe the cooling system operates as follows:

A coolant pipe is attached to one side of the engine. The pipe connects each of the three cylinder banks.
Coolant is drawn through a pipe from the bottom of the radiator by the pump.
The pump then supplies coolant through the engine pipe into the cylinder cooling jackets.



The coolant passes up inside the cooling jackets and out through cylinder connectors to a return pipe on the opposite, top side of the engine.
From there the coolant flows back to the radiator to be cooled.



I created the pump to cylinder feed pipe using 0.9 mm tube with 1.1 mm diameter collars. The flexible pipe to the pump is 0.8 mm diameter lead wire.
The larger return pipe is 1.4 mm diameter tube with six 0.8 mm holes drilled into one side to align with the six 90 degree pipe connectors, made from annealed and bent 0.8 mm tube.
Holes of 0.8 mm diameter were drilled vertically down into the engine lugs at one side of the valves on that side of the engine.
The connectors were then located into the engine and return pipe,

Mike

Hi all,
The kit supplied engine carburettors and their intake manifolds are not correct for this engine and need to be drastically modified to make them represent the actual engine.
The photographs below is one of several that show what the fuel supply components on the engine actually looked like, which is not how the kit engine parts are made.



Basically:
The two carburettors need to be separated.
The two carburettors need air intake openings.
The two inlet manifold pipes need to be modified.

The vertical drop pipes were cut away from the three ported header pipes.
The three ported header pipes were cut and extended using a 0.5 mm diameter pin, so that the three ports aligned correctly with the cylinder heads.
The vertical drop pipes were shortened and had a 0.5 mm diameter pin inserted in the tops, which were inserted into a hole drilled in the underside of the extended three ported header pipes.
This was done to correctly align the drop pipes to between the cylinder banks.
The joined kit carburettors were separated and each attached to the bottom of the drop pipes with 0.5 mm pin.
Finally the 90 degree bend that was cut away from the drop pipes were used to create the air intakes under the carburettors.

There's a way to go on each of the two assemblies, such as filling and sanding and the addition of the interconnected fuel supply pipes and throttle controls etc.
Those components will have to be scratched,

Mike

Hi all,
I thought I'd explain why I'm attempting to detail the engine as much as I am.
Normally if the engine is partly or totally covered by airframe or engine panels, there would be less reason to detail the engine as much.
However the Macchi M.5, even with the engine under tray and side panels fitted, was mostly visible.
The particular aircraft I'm attempting to model is 'FRANGAR NON FLECTAR’, Serial No.7288 as flown by Tenente DV Alberto Bartolozzo, Officer Commanding No.260a Squadriglla, operating from Venice during 1918.
That particular aircraft did not have the engine side panels fitted and so the entire engine was fully exposed.
The engine is a primary focal point for anyone looking at the model.
Therefore I felt that it was important to rectify the apparent omissions and errors with the kit supplied engine.

Mike

Hi all,
On the side of the engine crank case and between the two carburettors is a blanking plate.
I believe this plate was fitted to seal what was previously the oil filler pipe for the engine sump, but not used on this version of the engine.

To represent this blanking plate, I cut a disc of approximately 2.5 mm diameter from 0.2 mm thick plastic card and secure it in position on the sump using thin CA adhesive.







Two oil filler pipes were used to replenish oil in the engine sump and were located on the engine crank case on the opposite side from the carburettors. Each was fitted with a cap.

Two 2.5 mm diameter discs were cut from 0.2 mm plastic card and secured on the sump.
The centre of each disc and into the sump were gradually drilled up to 1.3 mm diameter.
To represent these filler pipes, 0.8 mm diameter rod was slide into 1.2 mm tube. The tubes were annealed then bent to the required angle.
One end was roll cut to remove the outer tube leaving rod exposed. The other end was cut completely through.
2.0 mm plastic rod was cut to to create two 5 mm lengths and a 0.9 mm diameter hole drilled through the centre of each.
These were attached on the exposed 0.8 mm rods and secured with CA adhesive.
The top of the 'caps' were then filed down to a height of 1.5 mm and sanded around the top edge..
Lastly the two 'filler pipes' were secured in the crank case holes with CA adhesive,

Mike

Hi all,
A few more updates for the carburettors and induction manifolds.
Hollowed out the air intakes at the bottom of the carburettors.
The induction manifolds cut/joins have been filled.
Added the carburettor barrels (made from a tooth pick).
Added 0.5 mm diameter plastic rod into the induction manifolds and carburettor barrels to represent the interconnecting fuel supply pipe and auxiliary pipe.
Added control lever for the throttle butterfly valves in the induction manifolds (control rods to added later).
Added three nuts to each intake manifold header pipe.

Obviously it all needs cleaning up and priming, but for now I'll move onto creating the 12 spark plugs,

Mike

Hi all,
Twelve spark plugs with ignition leads.
Made from 0.5 mm diameter tube with 0.28 mm diameter copper wire (annealed) leads.
Fitted into 0.6 mm diameter holes drilled into both sides of each cylinder bank.

Now it's onto the really tricky valve operating gear,

Mike

.

Daaaaaaaaaaaaamn!

.

Hi all,
I've been working the last few days on ways to better represent the valve operating gear for this engine, as the kit supplied photo-etch is not very realistic.
After trying converted photo-etch, card and other methods, I decided to go with this.
This is not meant to accurately 'reproduce' the engines valve gear, but more to 'represent' it as the kit engine does not lend itself easily to this modification.

The operating levers are made as two separate levers from 0.5 mm thick plastic card.
The levers are shaped then joined at the centre and secured to their individual operating shafts.
The bottom of the push rods were marked on the engine then drilled with a 0.6 mm diameter drill.
Nickel-Silver rod of 0.4 mm diameter was cut and secured in each drilled hole and against the end of the levers.
Finally a 0.51 mm hexagonal nut (from 'RB Motions' was added to the top of each rod.

Once all of the push rods are done I need to add the pivot lever between each pair of rods.

Mike

Hi all,
Just a quick update for the engine modifications.
The valve operating gear is now done - made from 0.2 mm and 0.5 mm thick plastic card..
The shots below show the dry fit of:

Carburettor and induction manifolds
Ignition lead support tubes
Coolant supply and return pipes.

All that's left now are a couple of external oil pipes and it should be ready to start painting and building the engine.
Other items such as ignition leads, engine placard plates etc can't be added until the engine build is completed,

Mike

Hi all,
I've added the external oil pipes at the propeller end of the engine.
These made from 0.7 mm and 0.4 mm brass tube,

Mike

And the men in white coats are on the way! Outstanding work!

They've been, gave up, and went back home

Mike

Hi all,
Two pipes were connected to the underside of the coolant return pipe, located at the top of the engine.
The two pipes were routed across to the other side of the engine, between the end and centre cylinder banks.
The purpose for these two pipes is not clear or to where on the engine they were eventually connected.
As the pipes were connected to the coolant return pipe, it would seem hot coolant from the engine was carried in the pipes.
My only assumption is that these pipes supplied hot coolant to the housings of the two carburettors, thereby ’pre-heating’ both of the carburettors.
This would have helped preventing icing up, which may have been more of a problem for seaplanes more than land based aircraft.

The pipes were made from 0.8 mm and 0.5 mm diameter tube.

Mike

Mike, that is coming along nicely although quite a lot of customization there. Those carburetor pre-heat supply pipes I assume convey hot water?? If not, then what?

Best Regards

Hi Rob,
Yes hot coolant diverted from the return pipe on its way back to the radiator.
That's the theory anyway,

Mike

Hi all,
I've gone as far as I can modifying the resin kit engine to better resemble the actual 'Isotta Fraschini V4B’ engine.
The shots below show it primed and dry fitted, including replacement exhaust pipes made from 1.4 mm diameter tube.
It's the longest engine modification I've undertaken thus far, but hopefully it'll be worth it.

So now, it's time to move onto modifying the cockpit area !!

Mike

I can just about imagine what this will look like with those tubes bent properly and all the "grease" applied to the engine - you are a master at weathering and making it look real. By the way, what's that lump of putty you have the engine setting on? Looks like a great way to quickly hold and position something for detailing. But some putties stick or leave a residue, so it can't be just any old glob'o'glop.

Hi,
Some modellers use Bostik 'BlueTak', but this can leave an oily residue on the model part, especially if left in contact for a while.
You can see this better if it's used for a while on paper.
I use Uhu 'White Tack', which performs in the same way but doesn't leave residue,

Mike

Thanks, I'll check that out. My Wing Commander has some BlueTak, and I would agree with you on that.

Hi all,
The cockpit has been modified to correct and add components not supplied in the kit.

Corrected:
Positioning of both machine guns (rearwards into the cockpit and closer to the cockpit side walls).
Replacement instrument panel support bar (kit part too short).
Control rod for Mixture control and Spark advance levers replaced (too weak).
Tachometer replaced (kit part too large).

Added:
Fuel panel switches (0.3 mm tube).
Mixture control and Spark advance control rods (x2) (0.4 mm tube)..
Starter magneto ('Taurus Models').
Starter magneto safety switch ('Taurus Models').
Replacement Tachometer (from sprue).
Half compression operating lever and control rod (spare photo-etch and 0.4 mm tube).
Cockpit front edge padding ('ANYZ' 0.5 mm braided line).

After painting I will add:
The fuel contents and oil pressure pipes to the instrument panel.
Wiring for the starter magneto and safety switch.
Tachometer drive shaft.
Instrument decals (not supplied in the kit).
Transparencies for the two 'windows'.
Flight control cables.

The shots below show the primed cockpit components dry fitted (except control column).

Mike

Hi all,
The cockpit is now complete.
As I found with the engine, the cockpit required a lot of modifications and additions to bring it up to looking more like the actual aircraft cockpit.
Basically, the modifications and additions made were as follows:

Fuselage inner side walls heavily thinned and both assembled machine guns modified to allow the guns to sit in their correct positions in the cockpit.
Forward bulkhead repositioned as the kit instructions were incorrect.
Support bar for the instrument panel and climb indicator replaced with micro-tube (kit part too short).
Cockpit rear padding created from ‘Milliput’ (kit photo-etch part unusable).
Cockpit forward edge padding bead added (not in the kit).
Pilot’s seat – addition holes in the seat back.
Pilot’s seat – slots created for the seat belts.
Pilot’s seat – seat support frame created (not in the kit).
Pilot’s foot board assembly modified to allow the control column to be positioned further away from the pilot’s seat.
Pilot’s seat top attachment to rear bulkhead added.
Panel switches replaced with micro-tube (kit photo-etch unrealistic).
‘Taurus Models’ starter magneto added (not in kit).
‘Taurus Models’ starter magneto safety switch added (not in the kit).
Tachometer ‘scratch’ replaced (kit part too large).
Engine half compression lever and control rod added (not in the kit).
Fuel contents pipe to gauge added – ‘PlusModels’ lead wire.
Oil pressure pipe to gauge added – ‘PlusModels’ lead wire.
Micro-tube used for control rods (Half compression control, Spark advance control, Fuel mixture control).
Cockpit window ports created using clear acetate sheet and in-filled with ‘Krystal Clear’.
Rudder control cables added (0.4 mm Nickel-Silver tube and 0.12 mm mono-filament).
Hole drilled through right side of fuselage (at engine forward right support strut location) – for cockpit controls to engine.
Control column machine gun triggers replaced with micro-tube (kit photo-etch unrealistic).
Machine gun trigger cables added (‘PlusModels’ lead wire).

Other than that, the cockpit was built straight out of the box!!

I forgot to take completion shots of the cockpits internals before closing it up.
However, there is the one shot on the cockpit floor assembly finished.

In the following photographs, the two ‘white discs’ are the cockpit window ports – the ‘Krystal Clear’ was still setting when I took the photographs,

Mike

Why bless the man! He's even got mud in perforated metal steps, but not at the edges where the pilot is less likely to step!

Mike, you've got an unparalleled ability to make it look real. I'm in awe.

Mike there is a tremendous amount of customization in that build. Cudos for taking it on. Kind of makes me think of the Beatles song "The long and winding Road!!

Hi Rob,
More like a 'Hard Days Night',

Mike

Glory are we showing our age here...

Yuppers!!

Hi all,
The fuselage has now been prepared for application of the decals, which hopefully will be a combination of wood effect decals and kit decals.
If that doesn't work out I'll revert to creating the wood effects using oil paints.
The actual aircraft had a Latin legend along both sides of the fuselage - ‘FRANGAR NON FLECTAR’.
Some translation for this are:
'I am broken, I am not deflected'
’I’ll break but will not bend’
'I will break, not bow'
'I am broken, I am not deflected'
This is not supplied as a decal in the kit, which is not surprising given it's not even shown on the kit colour illustrations!!
As there is no aftermarket for this I have to resort to creating a mask set, which I've done on my 'Cricut Air 2' cutting machine.
Hopefully the mask won't peel off and decals or paint when I remove them, as airbrushing this legend is literally the last job on the fuselage.

I've added the 'dome' in front of the windscreen and what appears to be a rudimentary gun sight. The purpose of this 'dome' is unclear.
I've primed the fuselage in white as the decals are somewhat 'see through', so need a white base under the roundels.
Also the wood effect decals need a white background.
I've added pre-shading along the wood panel nail lines, which I created with a 'Rosie the Riveter' tool.

Mike

Just how wide is the wing span of that model? I am thinking you may need a larger case.

It's looking very nice Mike!

Hi all,
An example below of the 'translucent' decals supplied in the kit.
When applied over other decals or paint, the colour below shows through.
This means a white base colour needs to be applied, both under individual decals as well as for the wood effect decals.
It also means the individual wood decals will need to be cut around the kit decals - tricky, but worth trying rather than using oil paint for wood effect.

Rob:
Upper wing is the widest at 15 inches (381 mm).

Mike

Hi all,
As I wasn't happy using wood effect decals I stripped off all of the previously applied roundels, stripes and the wood effect decals.
I then sanded the fuselage and re-primed with 'AK Interactive' white (AK759).
Then I applied 'Tamiya' Dark Yellow (XF60).
I masked off the white areas then sponged on 'DecoArt Crafters Acrylic' paint along the fuselage.

Next is to Airbrush 'Tamiya' Chear Orange (XF26) or Yellow (XF24) mixed with a semi-matte sealer ('Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC-311).
Then add the roundels and fuselage stripes (white decal first).
Add back the nail lines with a 'Rosie the Riveter' (1:32nd - 1 mm).
Apply the final decals.
Finally a weathering wash of 'Flory Models' Dark Dirt or Grime followed by a light sheen sealing coat.

So still a bit to do,

Mike

Hi all,
The fuselage decal are now on.
As the kit supplied decals are translucent and darker colours underneath show through, I had to cut out white decals for the roundels and skulls.
Not easy but at least the darker wood colour doesn't show through,

Mike

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Fantastic work as always Mike, just fantastic. To that dome on the deck directly in front of the pilot, it looks like a binnacle mount for a compass to me. Over the years working on old wooden boats, I've seen a very similar compass dome mounted in just such a manner. You bore a hole the diameter of the compass cylinder, usually about 4" or so across, and the assembly drops in and is secured to the deck with screws through a flange at the base of the dome. In the rear of the dome is a window that allows you to view the compass floating inside.


EDIT: Similar to the following, though this example has a flip-up half-shell cover rather than a full metal dome with a window, but you get the idea.



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Hi Lou,
Thanks for the heads up for the possibility of the dome being a compass binnacle.
Not being a nautical cove, it hadn't occurred to me but it does make sense.
Especially given these aircraft were flown mostly over the sea and their pilot's had no points of reference for navigation.
I'll see if I can follow this up,

Thanks,

Mike

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You're welcome, Mike. And, to some historic evidence of a WWI-era binnacle dome for aeroplane compasses, I just came across the following: Liquid Compass and Binnacle - Aircraft - 1916

They were being used then, so it's definitely a possibility on your M-5.



EDIT: Just found this WWII version of precisely the drop-in, flange mount compass with windowed binnacle cover I was describing in my earlier post. This particular one is currently being offered on eBay for $395, just as a point of interest.



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Hi Lou,
Many thanks.
I've been in contact with a guy in Italy who is a font of knowledge on WW1 Italian aircraft.
Although he can't confirm it, he also believes the 'dome' was in fact a compass binnacle,

Mike

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That is excellent Mike, thanks for the info from your Italian contact. What would be more excellent still would be an actual photo from the cockpit of M7288 showing the compass sitting in that dome on the deck, but that would be expecting waaaaay too much.

Lou

So Lou.....Is that compass making it's way into your collection????? You have a way of finding the obscure!

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Robert, probably not. Now if it were WWI vintage then I just might consider it.


My previous comment about wishing there were a better shot showing the dome on the M.5 got me to thinking, so I went back to the large format version of the photo Mike posted earlier in this thread and had a closer look. Here is a clip of that photo, enlarged 300% and sharpened one click. It does appear there is a glass window on the backside of that dome and I have made some highlights pointing to possible evidence. The shaded area in the second frame highlights the possible glass window. You folks can judge for yourselves.



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Nice bit of investigation Lou - I didn't think to do that after our conversation

Hi all,
I still have weathering, nail lines and the green fuselage stripes (waiting for paint to arrive) to do.

However I have:
Painted the gun ports and rigging panels ('Mr. Colour' Stainless Steel).
Painted the engine support strut mountings ('Mr. Colour' Aluminium).
Fitted gun barrels (0.7 mm diameter tube) painted with 'Mr. Colour' Iron.
Gun Sight (0.3mm and 0.5 mm diameter tube) painted with 'Tamiya' Rubber Black (XF85)..
Compass binnacle (modified sprue with a compass decal and clear 'window').
Windscreen ('Alclad' Duralumin) - clear area treated with 'Pledge' Floor care.

Mike

Looking fantastic mike!

Hi all,
Is it just me or is everyone getting these annoying 'infolink' pop up adverts !!

Anyway, the fuselage is progressing with the stripes and Latin legend 'Frangar Non Flectar'.
Just the three metal hatch covers to add and final weathering and finish.
Then onto the wings,

Mike

I haven't noticed them. I guess my firefox setup has them blocked .

The build is looking like it's really coming together. Great work as always @Sandbagger.

Yes, the infolink ads. have begun showing up recently in my Edge browser, even with adblock plus enabled - ADB is finicky with Edge. No problems on the other hand with Firefox and ADB, or Pale Moon and ABL (adblock latitude).

By the way, perfect models Sandbagger. Yours - and of that other fellow who sometimes does animated videos on YouTube of his models (can't remember his name) - are the best I've ever seen.

Von S

Hi all,
I'm calling the fuselage finished.
I've scuffed the underside roundel to represent water wear.
The fuselage was given a weathering coat of Dark Dirt clay wash 'Flory Models' to represent general grime, especially as crew and mechanics had to walk on the cockpit decking.
It was then sealed with 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC-311) lacquer.
A second light wash of White was applied to give an indication of salt spray and to highlight the fuselage panel nail lines, then sealed again.

Now onto the wings,

Mike

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Mike, it is looking superb. And I love that job you did on the compass!

Also, to that very annoying "infolinks" pop-up, I am getting it as well. It needs to go away ASAP and permanently.

.

For what it's worth...i am not yet experiencing the pop-up!

Hi all,
The propeller is finished.
Hand made wood laminate special from 'ProperPlane'.
Airbrushed with 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC-311) with a few drops'Tamiya' Hull Red (XF9).
Erosion protection stripes (either Copper, Tin or Mondel (Copper-Nickel Alloy) brush painted.
Propeller bosses brush painted with 'Mr. Colour' Stainless Steel (213).
Final sealing coat of 'Tamiya' Clear Orange (X26).
Propeller bosses coated with 'AK Interactive' Kersosene (AK2039).

Mike

Hi all,
I've started working on the wings.
The wings were covered in Clear Doped Linen (CDL), but of a much lighter, almost white' finish.
Photographs of the aircraft show darker ribs tapes over the lighter covering, which I'm assuming was because the rib tapes were effectively double thickness linen.



The wing were primed with 'AK interactive' white AK-759.
The wing spars were masked off and airbrushed with thinned 'Tamiya' Smoke (X19).
The masking was removed and the internal cross bracing wires drawn on with a pencil.
Pre-shading was then airbrushed with thinned 'Tamiya' Smoke (X19).



The wing was lightly airbrushed with the white primer to tone down the pre-shading and spars.



The raised detail was then lightly sanded to highlight the wing ribs and outer edges.
The whole wing was then sealed with 'Alclad' Aqua Gloss (ALC-600).



'Aviattic' clear Bleached CDL (ATT32044) was used to cover the wing.
The same decal, cut into 2 mm strips was used to cover the rib tapes.



This is a long tedious job as both sides of the upper and lower wing need to be treated this way, but hopefully it'll have the desired effect.
I still have the roundels and markings to apply, plus any final weathering and a sealing coat of semi-matte to finish.

Mike

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Mike, it is amazing the tricks you have to make those stark, sterile plastic parts come alive with the proper depth and character. Outstanding!

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I second that! Your modeling and artistic talents are amazing, Mike!

Hi all,
Thanks - I try

Out of interest here's a shot of the various parts that are WIP.
I've yet to add the rib tapes,

Mike

Hi all,
I think that's as far as I can take the top roundels.
The inner white ring was replaced with the same 'Aviattic' CDL decal used to cover the wing.
The reason being that photographs show what appears to be CDL inner roundel rings, not painted white.
Moving on now to the undersides of both wings.
That means red and green outer areas with CDL centre sections and 'ghost' roundels' under the upper wing.

Mike

Hi all,
The wings and tail plane/elevators are finished.
The underside of the upper wing has 'ghost' roundels visible from the roundels on the top surface - created with masks and airbrushed..
The heat deflector panel (for engine exhausts) on the inboard left wing painted with 'Alclad' Steel on black primer.
Final weathering applied using 'Flory' fine clay wash.
Surface finish airbrushed with 'Alclad' Light Sheen,

Mike

OUTSTANDING!

Really nice job of the ghosting roundels on the underside of the upper wings mate!

Thanks guys.

Hi all,
The fin and rudder are now finished.
The kit decals were not used, but instead airbrushed.
The CDL covering and rib tapes were applied as for the wings.
'Flory Models' fine clay wash (Dark Dirt) applied for weathering.

Mike

I just love the weathering effect you have created on the wings and rudder sections. Very realistic looking!

Hi all,
And the lower wing floats.
The kit supplies the earlier 'hull' shaped wing floats. which were attached directly to the underside of the lower wing.
Also supplied are the later 'ski' type wing floats, which were attached to the underside of the lower wing with support struts.
Once again no surprise that the kit does not supply the support struts, just the floats!!

I made the support struts from soldered micro-tube and chiselled recesses into the underside of the lower wing so the floats are correctly positioned, taking into account the 3 degrees of wing dihedral angle.
Some Macchi M.5 aircraft had wing floats of just varnished wood, others had markings such as Italian roundels, white discs etc.
This particular Macchi M.5 had the Italian tricolours applied, similar to that of the fin.

Mike

I thoroughly enjoy your updates Sandbagger, but especially now, during this international pandemic. Stuck at home, isolated, I'm living vicariously through your model building. Every day I hope for a new update and new images. Keep up the great work and keep those updates coming! Thanks, sincerely.

Glad to be of some help during this crisis.

Hi all,
After finishing the wing floats it was pointed out the they seemed too short.
After re-checking the drawing I realised that in fact they should span the chord of the lower wings and also that the sides of each float were angled in towards the nose.
So back to the drawing board.
As the micro-tube struts were already fitted and matched the location recesses I'd created in the wing, I didn't want to start the floats from scratch.
Also, because of the struts, I couldn't really cut and insert an extension to lengthen the floats.
So I stepped the top and bottom surfaces and added 0.5 mm thick plastic card strips.
The bottom of the floats had a packing piece of 0.5 mm thick plastic card to help create the shallow curve on that surface.
Once that was done I filled the sides with modelling putty and once set, sanded it all to shape.

So not perfect, but I think close to the correct size etc.
The second shot shows the floats test fitted to the underside of the lower wing halves,

Mike

Hi all,
The upper wing has now been joined and the lower wings secured to the fuselage (with the required 3 degrees of dihedral angle)
The shots below show the upper wing dry fitted with only the unfinished 'V' interplane struts located.
The unfinished engine is just positioned onto the fuselage 'Z' support struts.

The two upper 'Z' struts from the engine bearers to the underside of the upper wing still need to be drilled into the bearers and upper wing.
NOTE: The unfinished engine is positioned further rearwards than it will be when finally fitted.

So far both wings appear to be correctly aligned when viewed from the top and sides.

Mike

Superb Mike! And right out of the box too.

Geez Mike, There is enough space to build a lounge between those two wings!!

You know me Mark

Rob:
Yeah it is a tad capacious but it will fill in a bit with rigging,

Mike

Makes me wonder why they designed the craft with such a high upper wing.

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Robert, my guess is the designers were attempting to minimize the air flow disruption and "burbling" over the horizontal stabilizer and elevator, (and to a lesser degree the vertical stab and rudder), that is caused when a pusher prop is sitting directly in front of those control surfaces. Just a thought. Of course, it could just be for prop clearance.

Mike, can't wait to see this little gem completed. Fine work as always Sir.

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Hi all,
The ‘Isotta Fraschini V4B’ six cylinder engine for the Macchi M.5 is more or less completed.
There are engine controls and pipes to add, but these can't be done until the engine is fitted to the model.
The only change I made was to replace the spark plugs and leads I'd made with I think better versions.
The plugs are 0.5 mm diameter tube with 'RB Motion' Aluminium nuts at the base. The HT leads are 0.2 mm diameter lead wire.

Mike

Looks like the real McCoy!