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#4504693 - 01/23/20 02:21 AM Re: Macchi M-5 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Hi all,
I thought I'd explain why I'm attempting to detail the engine as much as I am.
Normally if the engine is partly or totally covered by airframe or engine panels, there would be less reason to detail the engine as much.
However the Macchi M.5, even with the engine under tray and side panels fitted, was mostly visible.
The particular aircraft I'm attempting to model is 'FRANGAR NON FLECTAR’, Serial No.7288 as flown by Tenente DV Alberto Bartolozzo, Officer Commanding No.260a Squadriglla, operating from Venice during 1918.
That particular aircraft did not have the engine side panels fitted and so the entire engine was fully exposed.
The engine is a primary focal point for anyone looking at the model.
Therefore I felt that it was important to rectify the apparent omissions and errors with the kit supplied engine.

Mike

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#4504780 - 01/23/20 10:58 PM Re: Macchi M-5 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Hi all,
On the side of the engine crank case and between the two carburettors is a blanking plate.
I believe this plate was fitted to seal what was previously the oil filler pipe for the engine sump, but not used on this version of the engine.

To represent this blanking plate, I cut a disc of approximately 2.5 mm diameter from 0.2 mm thick plastic card and secure it in position on the sump using thin CA adhesive.

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Two oil filler pipes were used to replenish oil in the engine sump and were located on the engine crank case on the opposite side from the carburettors. Each was fitted with a cap.

Two 2.5 mm diameter discs were cut from 0.2 mm plastic card and secured on the sump.
The centre of each disc and into the sump were gradually drilled up to 1.3 mm diameter.
To represent these filler pipes, 0.8 mm diameter rod was slide into 1.2 mm tube. The tubes were annealed then bent to the required angle.
One end was roll cut to remove the outer tube leaving rod exposed. The other end was cut completely through.
2.0 mm plastic rod was cut to to create two 5 mm lengths and a 0.9 mm diameter hole drilled through the centre of each.
These were attached on the exposed 0.8 mm rods and secured with CA adhesive.
The top of the 'caps' were then filed down to a height of 1.5 mm and sanded around the top edge..
Lastly the two 'filler pipes' were secured in the crank case holes with CA adhesive,

Mike

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#4504925 - 01/25/20 12:01 AM Re: Macchi M-5 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Hi all,
A few more updates for the carburettors and induction manifolds.
Hollowed out the air intakes at the bottom of the carburettors.
The induction manifolds cut/joins have been filled.
Added the carburettor barrels (made from a tooth pick).
Added 0.5 mm diameter plastic rod into the induction manifolds and carburettor barrels to represent the interconnecting fuel supply pipe and auxiliary pipe.
Added control lever for the throttle butterfly valves in the induction manifolds (control rods to added later).
Added three nuts to each intake manifold header pipe.

Obviously it all needs cleaning up and priming, but for now I'll move onto creating the 12 spark plugs,

Mike

[Linked Image]

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Last edited by Sandbagger; 01/25/20 04:39 PM.

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#4504983 - 01/25/20 07:05 PM Re: Macchi M-5 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Hi all,
Twelve spark plugs with ignition leads.
Made from 0.5 mm diameter tube with 0.28 mm diameter copper wire (annealed) leads.
Fitted into 0.6 mm diameter holes drilled into both sides of each cylinder bank.

Now it's onto the really tricky valve operating gear,

Mike

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#4505019 - 01/26/20 02:09 PM Re: Macchi M-5 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Daaaaaaaaaaaaamn! notworthy

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#4505288 - 01/28/20 04:09 PM Re: Macchi M-5 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Hi all,
I've been working the last few days on ways to better represent the valve operating gear for this engine, as the kit supplied photo-etch is not very realistic.
After trying converted photo-etch, card and other methods, I decided to go with this.
This is not meant to accurately 'reproduce' the engines valve gear, but more to 'represent' it as the kit engine does not lend itself easily to this modification.

The operating levers are made as two separate levers from 0.5 mm thick plastic card.
The levers are shaped then joined at the centre and secured to their individual operating shafts.
The bottom of the push rods were marked on the engine then drilled with a 0.6 mm diameter drill.
Nickel-Silver rod of 0.4 mm diameter was cut and secured in each drilled hole and against the end of the levers.
Finally a 0.51 mm hexagonal nut (from 'RB Motions' was added to the top of each rod.

Once all of the push rods are done I need to add the pivot lever between each pair of rods.

Mike

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#4505592 - 01/30/20 09:26 PM Re: Macchi M-5 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Hi all,
Just a quick update for the engine modifications.
The valve operating gear is now done - made from 0.2 mm and 0.5 mm thick plastic card..
The shots below show the dry fit of:

Carburettor and induction manifolds
Ignition lead support tubes
Coolant supply and return pipes.

All that's left now are a couple of external oil pipes and it should be ready to start painting and building the engine.
Other items such as ignition leads, engine placard plates etc can't be added until the engine build is completed,

Mike

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#4505653 - 01/31/20 01:26 PM Re: Macchi M-5 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Hi all,
I've added the external oil pipes at the propeller end of the engine.
These made from 0.7 mm and 0.4 mm brass tube,

Mike

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#4505945 - 02/03/20 01:04 AM Re: Macchi M-5 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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And the men in white coats are on the way! Outstanding work!


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#4505971 - 02/03/20 09:53 AM Re: Macchi M-5 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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They've been, gave up, nope screwy and went back home wave

Mike


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#4506015 - 02/03/20 06:03 PM Re: Macchi M-5 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Hi all,
Two pipes were connected to the underside of the coolant return pipe, located at the top of the engine.
The two pipes were routed across to the other side of the engine, between the end and centre cylinder banks.
The purpose for these two pipes is not clear or to where on the engine they were eventually connected.
As the pipes were connected to the coolant return pipe, it would seem hot coolant from the engine was carried in the pipes.
My only assumption is that these pipes supplied hot coolant to the housings of the two carburettors, thereby ’pre-heating’ both of the carburettors.
This would have helped preventing icing up, which may have been more of a problem for seaplanes more than land based aircraft.

The pipes were made from 0.8 mm and 0.5 mm diameter tube.

Mike

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


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Alienware Aurora R5
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32 Gig DDR4 2133Mhz
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#4506026 - 02/03/20 07:08 PM Re: Macchi M-5 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Mike, that is coming along nicely although quite a lot of customization there. Those carburetor pre-heat supply pipes I assume convey hot water?? If not, then what?

Best Regards

Last edited by Robert_Wiggins; 02/03/20 07:09 PM.

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#4506057 - 02/03/20 11:42 PM Re: Macchi M-5 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Hi Rob,
Yes hot coolant diverted from the return pipe on its way back to the radiator.
That's the theory anyway,

Mike


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#4506164 - 02/04/20 10:06 PM Re: Macchi M-5 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Hi all,
I've gone as far as I can modifying the resin kit engine to better resemble the actual 'Isotta Fraschini V4B’ engine.
The shots below show it primed and dry fitted, including replacement exhaust pipes made from 1.4 mm diameter tube.
It's the longest engine modification I've undertaken thus far, but hopefully it'll be worth it.

So now, it's time to move onto modifying the cockpit area !!

Mike

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[Linked Image]


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Alienware Aurora R5
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Two GTX 1080 Foundations in SLI (8 Gig each)
32 Gig DDR4 2133Mhz
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#4506178 - 02/04/20 11:56 PM Re: Macchi M-5 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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I can just about imagine what this will look like with those tubes bent properly and all the "grease" applied to the engine - you are a master at weathering and making it look real. By the way, what's that lump of putty you have the engine setting on? Looks like a great way to quickly hold and position something for detailing. But some putties stick or leave a residue, so it can't be just any old glob'o'glop.


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#4506224 - 02/05/20 10:53 AM Re: Macchi M-5 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Hi,
Some modellers use Bostik 'BlueTak', but this can leave an oily residue on the model part, especially if left in contact for a while.
You can see this better if it's used for a while on paper.
I use Uhu 'White Tack', which performs in the same way but doesn't leave residue,

Mike


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#4506361 - 02/06/20 03:32 AM Re: Macchi M-5 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Thanks, I'll check that out. My Wing Commander has some BlueTak, and I would agree with you on that.


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#4507089 - 02/11/20 05:51 PM Re: Macchi M-5 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Hi all,
The cockpit has been modified to correct and add components not supplied in the kit.

Corrected:
Positioning of both machine guns (rearwards into the cockpit and closer to the cockpit side walls).
Replacement instrument panel support bar (kit part too short).
Control rod for Mixture control and Spark advance levers replaced (too weak).
Tachometer replaced (kit part too large).

Added:
Fuel panel switches (0.3 mm tube).
Mixture control and Spark advance control rods (x2) (0.4 mm tube)..
Starter magneto ('Taurus Models').
Starter magneto safety switch ('Taurus Models').
Replacement Tachometer (from sprue).
Half compression operating lever and control rod (spare photo-etch and 0.4 mm tube).
Cockpit front edge padding ('ANYZ' 0.5 mm braided line).

After painting I will add:
The fuel contents and oil pressure pipes to the instrument panel.
Wiring for the starter magneto and safety switch.
Tachometer drive shaft.
Instrument decals (not supplied in the kit).
Transparencies for the two 'windows'.
Flight control cables.

The shots below show the primed cockpit components dry fitted (except control column).

Mike

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


[Linked Image]

Alienware Aurora R5
Windows 10 64 bit
Intel i7-6700K 4.2Ghz (liquid cooled)
Two GTX 1080 Foundations in SLI (8 Gig each)
32 Gig DDR4 2133Mhz
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#4507840 - Yesterday at 09:16 PM Re: Macchi M-5 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Hi all,
The cockpit is now complete.
As I found with the engine, the cockpit required a lot of modifications and additions to bring it up to looking more like the actual aircraft cockpit.
Basically, the modifications and additions made were as follows:

Fuselage inner side walls heavily thinned and both assembled machine guns modified to allow the guns to sit in their correct positions in the cockpit.
Forward bulkhead repositioned as the kit instructions were incorrect.
Support bar for the instrument panel and climb indicator replaced with micro-tube (kit part too short).
Cockpit rear padding created from ‘Milliput’ (kit photo-etch part unusable).
Cockpit forward edge padding bead added (not in the kit).
Pilot’s seat – addition holes in the seat back.
Pilot’s seat – slots created for the seat belts.
Pilot’s seat – seat support frame created (not in the kit).
Pilot’s foot board assembly modified to allow the control column to be positioned further away from the pilot’s seat.
Pilot’s seat top attachment to rear bulkhead added.
Panel switches replaced with micro-tube (kit photo-etch unrealistic).
‘Taurus Models’ starter magneto added (not in kit).
‘Taurus Models’ starter magneto safety switch added (not in the kit).
Tachometer ‘scratch’ replaced (kit part too large).
Engine half compression lever and control rod added (not in the kit).
Fuel contents pipe to gauge added – ‘PlusModels’ lead wire.
Oil pressure pipe to gauge added – ‘PlusModels’ lead wire.
Micro-tube used for control rods (Half compression control, Spark advance control, Fuel mixture control).
Cockpit window ports created using clear acetate sheet and in-filled with ‘Krystal Clear’.
Rudder control cables added (0.4 mm Nickel-Silver tube and 0.12 mm mono-filament).
Hole drilled through right side of fuselage (at engine forward right support strut location) – for cockpit controls to engine.
Control column machine gun triggers replaced with micro-tube (kit photo-etch unrealistic).
Machine gun trigger cables added (‘PlusModels’ lead wire).

Other than that, the cockpit was built straight out of the box!!

I forgot to take completion shots of the cockpits internals before closing it up.
However, there is the one shot on the cockpit floor assembly finished.

In the following photographs, the two ‘white discs’ are the cockpit window ports – the ‘Krystal Clear’ was still setting when I took the photographs,

Mike


[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


[Linked Image]

Alienware Aurora R5
Windows 10 64 bit
Intel i7-6700K 4.2Ghz (liquid cooled)
Two GTX 1080 Foundations in SLI (8 Gig each)
32 Gig DDR4 2133Mhz
1TB SSD boot drive - 1TB SATA storage drive
5.1 Surround Sound
34" Dell Ultra Sharp U3415W (3440x 2440)
CH Pro-Pedals, Stick and Throttle
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