Here another one question, in your video around 28:10 you do save the file at 24bit and not 32bit, is here some reason why not save it to the 32bit??? You are saying because not mixed up, while at the properties on the .dds file it is 32bit depth? Or is this something complete different.
Hi Rick: Have really profited from you vids and this thread.
The yellow tail on black fuselage is the Jasta 27 wing man plane Off_Fokker_DVII_OAW_Jasta 27 1918.
The middle one is a GIMP hue/brightness/Saturation change on two separate planes. The orange fuselage is from a yellow in-game and the green horizontal stabilizer was made from a red in-game skin then the two were joined by pasting the orange over the green and erasing the old orange stabilizer to get the green one I had on the layer beneath.
The blue tail is an in-game tail put on the same orange fuselage using the same erase to reveal technique.
I found later that there are a few in-game Fokker DVII types that have the same problems my erase conversions have here. I didn't make any note of them, having decided that this was just a limitation of the skin program/graphic whatever is the correct term.
Another thing I came across working with the Pfalz DIIIa is that if you have a white rudder and try to bring a color up the verticle stabilizer to cover over any portion of that white rudder, you get a line of that color on the outer edge of the rudder. This can be seen on in-game skins as well as my hack jobs. Example attached, but that's off subject, just an aside.
Just a heads up on skinning issues you may encounter. Not saying you will, but sometimes there is a model mapping issue which only comes to lifht when you are colorizing a model. It's difficult to explain as the mapping issue often varies between model types.
You may well have to experiment to see if you can find a workaround by not trying to have two different color areas come together on an area that has a mapping peoblem. I can't show you an example because I am not at my computer right now.
Just be aware of this possibility.
Case: Cooler Master Storm Trooper Pwr Sup: OCZ, GameXStream,1000-Watt MB: Asus Maximus VI Extreme Mem: Corsair Vengeance (2x 8GB), PC3-12800, DDR3-1600MHz, Unbuffered CPU: Intel i7-4770K, OC to 4.427Ghz CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Seidon 240M Liquid CPU Cooler Vid Card: ASUS GTX 980Ti STRIX 6GB OS and Games on separate: Samsung 840 Series 250GB SSD Monitor: Primary ASUS PG27AQ 4k; Secondary Samsung SyncMaster BX2450L Periphs: MS Sidewinder FFB2 Pro, TrackIR 4
After I did that post about the tail sections in May I started to figure out that there are just some things you can't do and what you say confirms it. Looking at the in-game skins I can see certain things that just aren't done, especially to the nose and tail sections so I just make a more difficult skin as close to the photo or profile I'm trying to copy and make do. Not that much has to be sacrificed to make the more complicated ones work well enough and most of the time non at all. I'm grateful the skins were designed to be so easy to work with and post into the games skin file. Sort of like being able to make all those model airplanes you planned to make someday and fly them, or watch them fly too.
Hey, jerbear, I went through a few DrI skins this morning and didn't see any stock ones that had the band. I apologize for not being more help so far, I haven't been home much the last few days. I should be able to give it some attention tomorrow. If you can get the name of one of the ones that shows the band, it might help us compare. Also, if you could post the section of your graphics file that corresponds to that area, it might be useful as well.
*edit: if you have any time play around with it, you will notice that in the first post of this thread there was a graph-paper skin example. If you could create one of those and take some in-game pictures from different angles, that might show if there are any geography issues.
** edit again: also, just to be clear, you want the tail color to creep up on the fuselage so that it is one solid line across, correct?
*** edit yet again: I may have found something to help you. Check out Hans Muller's 1917 Jasta 15 skin.
Here's how it looks in the game:
And here's the relevant part of the skin:
Use that as a model to put your stripe in and see if it works...
Hello Rick - Same here, I don't get to spend that much time home, seem to always be at work.
The problems I'm looking at is on the Fokker DVII tail. Here are four aircraft with the same problem. The orange one with the graph is mine. Looks like the graph is a little big, sorry. Then there is Karl Plauth, Jasta 20; Erich Budes, Justa 26 and Adolf Auer Jasta 40, all with the same problems.
OK, so I figured out what is happening, although it probably wont help you much... So here's a Lowenhardt reference:
That little piece isn't even on the skin. I used this reference August Raben Jasta 18:
So to see where it was being pulled from, I tried this:
OK, so it is being copied from somewhere above, but where?
So you can fill in the gap, but you have to live with a band of the same color above it. I tried painting in the area under the fuselage where there was nothing to see if it would take, but it didn't... (though I screenshot it, but didn't, it just looked like the original skin...)
Stumped at the moment. Maybe a developer or skinner will pop in with some advice...
Thanks for having a look and all the hard work Rick, I appreciate it.
At least I know I'm not completely inept.
There seems to be some little thing like that on every 3d model, nothin's perfect. What we have is awfully dern good though. A few compromises here and there have to be made and there's no sense driving yourself crazy over it.
The reminder about the grid thing was helpful. I have been working with stripes and Bavarian checks. I think that trick will help with some of the projects I can't complete. I need to go back and review some of these things every now and then. The old brain doesn't retain things like a steel trap anymore.
Mr Wiggins: Just did a quick survey of a few examples on Quick Combat. It seems that the problem does not affect the DVII OAW. Just the DVII and DVIIF. Ernst Udet is a good example since he flies all three models and has things going on with his horizontal stabilizer on all three.
If you just do the whole tail section in one color the problem doesn't occur. Only when you try to make only that stabilizer a different color.
Gents this is a modeling issue and cannot be resolved by adjusting the skin. Sorry.
At this point, it would be up to OBD to resolve. Best to simply work around it as we did originally, unless the original designer is will to change this... which might snowball all of the original skins. I'm not really interested in seeing anyone buried by a minor flaw as this.. so it's up to that person to decide if it's worth going through the trouble of adjusting it.
I can certainly go back and adjust whatever skins it effects from whatever Jastas I did if that is the case, but it won't be a quick fix for sure.
The Black Baron of Boistrancourt returns!!
I'd rather die fighting, than live for nothing. - Gen. G.S. Patton
I have worked the first time with GIMP (2.10.14, dds-format included) and have made my first skin for woff-PE. Positiv: lt has functioned, I can use the skin with quick combat and in the campaign! Nice!
Question: I have recogniced, that my own skin-file is much bigger (12MB) than the original file from the skin folder (ca. 3MB). Even if I export the original file only with an other name -without any changes- I have 12MB in the new skin-file. So I asked myself: What is the best mode to save / export the new skin-file in dds for WOFF-PE after changes? Which steps in the settings (1., 2., 3. step etc.) should be used when I save it as dds-file?
Hi Becker - 1- go upper left on Gimp to File > On drop down choose "Save as" > put in your file name and leave it as .xcf file > Save it in your documents file. This is only a backup and has nothing to do with export or converting to DDS. 2- go back to File > choose "Export as" on dropdown > enter you file name but change it to a bmp file. Example: Fokker DVII.bmp. > There is a dropdown list on the bottom of your export window that will say " "All export images" choose the dropdown that says "Windows BMP image (bmp) make sure you have bmp in your file name not xcf. > choose desktop as you file destination on the left side of the window.
3 - Hit the "EXPORT" button and another window will appear that asks is you want compatability options or advanced options > choose advanced options > you will be given three options 16, 24 or 32 bits > choose 24 bits and then click on "EXPORT" this will send the bmp file to your desktop.
4 - now open your DXTbmp app. in the upper left clock file then open, this will show you all the images on your desk top. > click on the bmp image you sent to desktop, then open, it will appear on DXTbmp.
5- again go to file and choose "save as" this will give you a drop down that will have DDS Texture along with some other options > click DDS texture > the file name will be on this new window but you will not see your image > change the image name so you will not confuse your new DDS image it with the bmp that is alerady on your desktop. > click on "save" and it will send the DDS image to your desktop. 6 - from the desktop you can cut the DDS image and paste it into you picture file or wherever else you want it. > you must now name the image in the correct WOFF code such as off_Fokker_DVII_ace_t_Jasta 13 1918_Hans_Butthead. 7- I usually make a copy before cutting the DDS and pasteing it in the WOFF skin folder. You can, of course put the image directly into the skin folder from desktop but I like the extra step.
This procedure should give you a DDS file of the correct size. I know it looks like a lot of step but it is very easy and becomes second nature and intuitive after a few times.
Holler if you have trouble and I or someone smarter will get back to you.