Looking good, nothing like some errors to make modelling more interesting. The tyres look legit.

Very true. I saw it demonstrated at Le Mans in 2011, and although Herbert gave it the beans it can't have been flat out, but still sounded like nothing else that weekend. We were sitting at the Ford Chicane and you could hear it downshifting to enter Porsche Curves even from there! Through Ford Chicane it was an absolute barrage of noise before disappearing up to Dunlop, where it only went out of earshot as it went down the other side of the hill.


Some shots of where this build is up to. I've wired the ignition. The leads are a bit overscale, but I couldn't find any finer shrink tube. They are easy enough to make and you can even manipulate the shape by stretching whilst still pliable. A couple of drill bits will make some shrouds for the plug ends too.



The engine with the replacement parts and added extras. The gearbox oil cooler is just dry fitted at the moment, while I try and work out where the hose on each side runs too.

















The exhaust only had a very shallow 'blind' hole so the end was cut off and fitted with some plastic the wall thinned to be better in scale.





The rear uprights and brake cooling intakes, with the brake discs in place.





The cockpit and engine bay bulkhead in place. Only dry fitted for now as my replacement parts on the engine are making it a very tight fit. A few tweaks to the locating holes and it should drop in to place. There's half dozen hoses to be added to these parts. (Particularly like the minute PE addon for the cap on the header tank. 



I can't go much further with the internals for the moment as the side pods have to be fitted before the cockpit, and they'll need fully painting before that, perhaps even decalling.


Thanks for looking in again,

Gareth

I've finished the rear suspension modifications. Here's the original part, with a replacement spring and new shock absorber shown too.




This is how it will all fit together. The 'doughnut' is a bump stop rubber, ready to be painted red.




Here's all the parts in an 'exploded' view before painting.




And now all in place and painted. I can see a few touch ups are needed now it's blown up to the size of my monitor! (Yes, the right one could be a touch longer, but it's hard to spot on the model.)




Thanks for looking in again,
Gareth

That. Is. Insane.

I've done a bit on the wing. Looking closely at my references I can see that there are exposed metallic areas around the fasteners of the end plates. I'm nut sure what the plates are made, but i'm assuming they are strengthening bushes in some kind of composite / plastic.

First off I made round masks just bigger than the fastener heads with a micro punch and die set. Each one was placed and the remainder of the plate masked off.




Before being sprayed with Alclad Steel. unmasked, they look like this.




I've painted the Gurney flap, picked out the fastener heads, and added the decals. I did three light coats of clear gloss before the decals, buffing each one with car paintwork scratch remover. It will need another to seal the decal in and even out the finish. Here's the wing dry fitted to the support.




More soon!

Man that is some detailing there Goon, looking forward to seeing the rest of the build.

You all make me feel like a baboon. The best I’ve ever done is about 1/10 as good as you fellows are regularly turning out.

That's just crazy attention to detail.

Shes gonna be suberb when she leaves the shop Goon, that wing and support is slick.

I've got a lot of the hoses fitted. Even with the excellent detail shots in my reference book it's hard to see both ends at times. Where I'm not certain I've just tucked them under the engine. Luckily it's herd to spot.





I bought some really cool white metal simulated braided radiator hoses. I painted them with Tamiya Smoke and flat coated. 





Very effective in place.




More soon,

Gareth

The PE parts I have make a big difference to the louvres over the front wheels. First the existing plastic has to be cut out.




Then the PE frame has to be shaped so that it conforms to the curve of the body work. This means it will sit down nicely and not need any (or as much) filling.




There are seven louvres to fit. They look easy, but it's been a really 'fun' hour to get them in place!




I need to get everything I can done on the body work before I fit these, as I can be clumsy at time and one slip wil destroy them.

Off to get on with the second one, and the interior of the doors next.

Cheers,
Gareth

Those louvres are small kits in themselves!

Yeah, they were great fun, but such an improvement over the kit mouldings.

Here's some pictures of them being fitted and finished.

I've gone ahead and fitted the louvres as the orange paint depends on lots and lots of coats to cover the white primer. It's very difficult to touch up, with a bristle or airbrush, so the had to go in before the first coats of paint. I used a method I've used to make other PE parts almost self adhesive. This is double sided tape, which I cut out in the hole the PE parts fit in, leaving a strip around the four sides. This means you can twaek the positioning a little, as the tape is a little stratchy. Once it's in place I trimmed around the outside with a brand new scalpel and cleared the excess away. It didn't quite stick in all places due to the PE not exactly maching the contours, but I ran some Roket Hot super glue under and held it down until fixed. 





I forgot to take any pics of the rest of the process, but this is how they look under the first coats of paint and and Zero Paints Clear Coat (fantastic stuff, if a little 'hot'!) 





You can get a really good shine wiith the lacquer. This is the finished engine cover outside in the sun to try and capture the shine. There's three coats of lacquer, each one cut back with Turtle Wax scratch remover before the next was applied. Then it was polished with a resin 'wax' I use on my real car. There's replacement Gurney flap in the rear too.




I've also got the decal made for the inside of the open door. I've made this on a plotter cutter, cutting self adhesive vinyl to test and tweak the drawing, before the actual decal itself. It fits perfectly on the inside of the window. The carbon pattern isn't quite right so I might make the decal again in another pattern.





Thanks for looking in again, more soon I hope!

I only just noticed little Johnny Herbets name on the car Interesting approach on the pe goon, why not just ca it or do you find this gives you a bit more workable time to tweak if needed?

To be frank I was very worried about making a mess of them. If it went wrong the model is either scrap or very much more expensive because of having to buy the PE again. Using this method to attach them meant it was easily reversible. A little turps will soften the tape adhesive. As it was I had to get some CA in there anyway, but I knew they were in the proper place by then. (My epxerience of CA and critical details is that is sticks when you don't want it to, and doesn't when you do!)

Johnny is my favourite driver. Very talented and a properly nice bloke.

I was thinking the inside of the door was spot on, and then I read the comment.

I can't believe there could be an improvement to it, but you've done unbelievable work so far, so....

I was thinking that you need to make a little turntable to set the model on in the clear box for display, so one could rotate it and look at all the details.

Fantastic work Goon.

Nice idea Dart,.a very slow turning turn table.

Go to Hobby Lobby and get one of their wall clock motors and gear it with the second hand.

It's definitely going in a case as it's going to be a gift, and I like the idea of a turntable too.