Thanks for the info. It's been a while since I did my original 2 sticks and TQS so I'm thinking maybe I'm missing something obvious... 1. I completely gutted all wiring in the TQS when i started the TQS Mega build because I was going to run all the buttons off of the SR from an old FLCS. That has all worked out along with the addition of two hats for a total of 16 switches now. I did seperate out the grounds as you saw, maybe I need to seperate out the Hot's as well like you did. I need to open up my working TQS and see how I wired that.
The one funny thing I have noticed is that i'm seeing something different in MMJOY wiht this MicroDyn board as opposed to the others that I have used.
See attached:
when I hook up my working TQS, the fields for "Value Row" and "Value Processed" are identical as I move the throttle back and forth. I found an old (new/unused) TM pot that I got from TM a long time ago as part of a rebuild kit, PN says 295-so042 9650 (this is not the same number on my Mega TQS pot, that number is 295-so042 9543), any way, I hooked it up to the Micro board and it is behaving exactly like the original pot.. The "Value Row" number changes as I move the pot, but the "Value Processed just stays pegged at 16382.
Have I toasted my board?
Last edited by Slarti; 03/12/1902:14 AM.
#4465072 - 03/12/1902:49 AMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
So the fails just keep on coming tonight. I have a new Robotdyn Micro board and decided to load the firmware onto that board and try it out just to see what happens.
I can't get it into bootloader mode to get the com port. I've followed the instructions, hit reset twice and it won't show the com port like it did in the past. I'm following these instructions which I have used before: [url=https://www.geneb.org/mmjoy2/pro-micro-instructions.pdf][/url
I remember when I first tried to load my early boards, that I only hit reset once, then Kbird reminded me that I needed to hit it twice. I'm doing that but still nothing. All I get under device manager is "Other Devices" with Arduino Micro under that and an exclamation point. Also, USB says the device driver didn't load....]
Probably time to call it a night and try again tomorrow....
thanks for all the help tonight everyone. It's appreciated.
#4465080 - 03/12/1903:21 AMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Slarti]
...I can't get it into bootloader mode to get the com port. I've followed the instructions, hit reset twice and it won't show the com port like it did in the past. ....
In my clone micro pro I have to tap 3 times the reset to get comm.
#4465089 - 03/12/1904:39 AMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Slarti]
So the fails just keep on coming tonight. I have a new Robotdyn Micro board and decided to load the firmware onto that board and try it out just to see what happens.
I can't get it into bootloader mode to get the com port. I've followed the instructions, hit reset twice and it won't show the com port like it did in the past. I'm following these instructions which I have used before: [url=https://www.geneb.org/mmjoy2/pro-micro-instructions.pdf][/url
I remember when I first tried to load my early boards, that I only hit reset once, then Kbird reminded me that I needed to hit it twice. I'm doing that but still nothing. All I get under device manager is "Other Devices" with Arduino Micro under that and an exclamation point. Also, USB says the device driver didn't load....]
Probably time to call it a night and try again tomorrow....
thanks for all the help tonight everyone. It's appreciated.
Sounds like the arduino Drivers are no longer installed for the new ProMicro....did you uninstall the Ardunio IDE or get a new Computer? once MMJOy Firmware is onboard it is not seen as an Arduino anymore....but a HID Device till you hit Reset (Twice for Me)
Doesn't look like you are using filtering to smooth out the Pots , I need too , to help with the jitters , I use 12 or 14X ( see earlier pics.)
which Firmware you using? , not the one from the Wiki I hope ? that is the oldest, original one.....2016-8-18UpD is the best for me......link in Sokol1's 1st post with the others on Mega's Russian Site
Ok, so I've made some progress. I don't remember having to install Arduino drivers and I have not reloaded the OS, but I installed IDE and after some messing around I got one of the new boards setup with firmware on it.
Kbird (or anyone else), is it recommend that use heavier wire for the POTS? I'm currently just using the very thin jumper wire. also, is there any issue with daisy chaining the Ground side and hot side of each pot?
Kbird, I've unsoldered the POTS hot and removed it from the Shift Register hot. I'll put it on the other side of th board and see what happens with that.
Last edited by Slarti; 03/14/1912:24 AM. Reason: spellling
#4465454 - 03/14/1901:28 AMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Slarti]
Ok, so I've made some progress. I don't remember having to install Arduino drivers and I have not reloaded the OS, but I installed IDE and after some messing around I got one of the new boards setup with firmware on it.
Kbird (or anyone else), is it recommend that use heavier wire for the POTS? I'm currently just using the very thin jumper wire. also, is there any issue with daisy chaining the Ground side and hot side of each pot?
Kbird, I've unsoldered the POTS hot and removed it from the Shift Register hot. I'll put it on the other side of th board and see what happens with that.
- I forgot in the MMJoy2 FW Folder there is a Drivers Folder with the Files needs for Boards supported by MMjoy2 too....
- If I remember correctly I used alot of the original wiring and also part of an Old GamePort Cable stripped of the outer sheath which gave me another 15 thin wires to use.
- I think I used a common wire from PWR close to the Pots then s[lit it off to each Pot , same with the GND and kept the Pots and SR Boards on their own PWR and GND to make trouble shooting if needed easier.
- found a couple more pics of that sneaky bare wire on the RNG Push button / POT too
Hey all, So I have gotten what I'll call the baseline Mega TQS up and running. Here it is with the two additional hat switches for a total of 16:
now I have a few questions on some other options for it.
1. I have two more banks from the shift register (for a total of 8 more buttons) that are unpopulated on the Mega TQS that I want to setup. I'm wondering if someone makes some type of strip or bank of buttons that I could use that would go along the bottom edge of the TQS (see picture). This would be in the small strip of space between the name plate and the edge of the top cover. Any ideas? I've seen some small switches on Amazon, I'd be happy with switches or buttons.
2. I'm thinking of doing something different with my rudder pedals. I'm thinking of hooking up two sets of connections. One would be a pure Arduino USB setup, the 2nd wire would be a 3 wire slave into the Mega TQS. I think I have the pins available for another Axis. This would allow me to either run the pedals standalone or save a USB slot and run them through the TQS.
thoughts?
thanks for the ideas.
Last edited by Slarti; 03/20/1901:17 AM.
#4466576 - 03/20/1901:42 AMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Slarti]
Hey all, So I have gotten what I'll call the baseline Mega TQS up and running. Here it is with the two additional hat switches for a total of 16:
now I have a few questions on some other options for it.
1. I have two more banks from the shirt register (for a total of 8 more buttons) that are unpopulated on the Mega TQS that I want to setup. I'm wondering if someone makes some type of strip or bank of buttons that I could use that would go along the bottom edge of the TQS (see picture). This would be in the small strip of space between the name plate and the edge of the top cover. Any ideas? I've seen some small switches on Amazon, I'd be happy with switches or buttons.
2. I'm thinking of doing something different with my rudder pedals. I'm thinking of hooking up two sets of connections. One would be a pure Arduino USB setup, the 2nd wire would be a 3 wire slave into the Mega TQS. I think I have the pins available for another Axis. This would allow me to either run the pedals standalone or save a USB slot and run them through the TQS.
thoughts?
thanks for the ideas.
1.) I put a 3 switches across the back along side a mic and headphone 3.5mm port and also added 4 buttons on top in front of the handle ( will add pics...) I also have an Encoder (handle) and a Rotary Switch
2.) 1st time around I used the old gameport connectors and cable , rewired to attach the Peddles as I used 1 Leonardo for the TQS and peddles and one for the FLCS but since Pro Micros are pretty cheap now I was thinking when I do a 2nd set I have to put a Micro into each device instead , each with it's own FW. At the moment I can still run without the Peddles but need a different config setup and calibration without them.
R1-R4 - 10-100 OHM, optional. for protecive on long wires.//10 or 100 OHM??? R5-R6 - 1-10 kOHM, required. need to hold up "data" and "select" digital lines. // 1 or 10 kOHM ??/? C1 - 0.1uF (ceramic 104), required. used on all sorts of applications to decouple ICs from power supplies. C2 - 10uF (tantal A), optional. these capacitor are great transient/surge suppressor.
\Can u link ebay or other pages where i can buy them?
#4468140 - 03/30/1903:08 AMRe: MMJoy - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
For TLE5010 PCB you need - preferable in SMD 1206 format, not too small to solder manually and avoid the use of 0,6mm drill case use pass through components:
R1-R4 - 10-100 OHM, optional. For protection on long wires. R5-R6 - 1-10 kOHM, required. Need to hold up "data" and "select" digital lines. C1 - 0.1uF (ceramic 104), required. Used on all sorts of applications to decouple ICs from power supplies. C2 - 10uF (tantal A), optional. These capacitor are great transient/surge suppressor.
Hey quick noob question,
R1-R4 - 10-100 OHM, optional. for protecive on long wires.//10 or 100 OHM??? R5-R6 - 1-10 kOHM, required. need to hold up "data" and "select" digital lines. // 1 or 10 kOHM ??/? C1 - 0.1uF (ceramic 104), required. used on all sorts of applications to decouple ICs from power supplies. C2 - 10uF (tantal A), optional. these capacitor are great transient/surge suppressor.
\Can u link ebay or other pages where i can buy them?
#4468189 - 03/30/1902:49 PMRe: MMJoy - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
I decided to tackle the last major set of "controls"....these are my very basic helicopter "cockpit. This has a Flight Link G2 that I had long ago slaved over to an FLCS set of guts. I took the FLCS head off of the FLCS, and put it on the Flight Link G2, and then added cable and ran it back to the FLCS circuit board so all the controls on the FLCS head would work. I also slaved the POTs over to the FLCS board as well. This was all done a very long time ago and it worked great for years via the normal Thurstmaster Gameport setup with stick/throttle/pedals.
I thought that converting over to full USB would be easy.
Well....sort of. I've not setup the buttons from the FLCS yet, but I don't think I'll have an issue there. Where I'm running into an issue is the POTS. As my first step in converting over to USB/Arduino/MMJOY, I combined the hot and ground for each pot (Hot/pitch to hot/roll to Arduino board. Same for Roll), then put a separate lead for each center post for the POTS. I've done this for 3 other FLCS setups with no issues. So once I plugged it all in, I could only seem to get the roll pot to work/showup in MMJOY.
So I separated all the wiring and started over. The Roll pot works fine. No issues. The Pitch pot does not work at all. Pic of Roll pot is attached.
i'm REALLY reluctant to take the Flight Link fully apart to get to the pot because I'm afraid that I might not get it back together. What info would you need to help me troubleshoot this?
It has been a long while since i've used these (they are on a VERY old machine running XP) but there were no issues when I ran it last. How can I try and troubleshoot the POT?
One interesting thing. When I have the pitch pot connected I get a wildly squiggly line (very large swings top to bottom) showing up in MMJOY VKB Joytester app. When I grab a hold of the metal base, the lines wild swings (top to bottom) get much smaller. I'll try and get a screen shot to show what I mean. Pitch pic is attached as well.
Thanks
EDIT for clarity: Note, on the Roll picuture, I'm moving the stick left to right and getting what is expected, i.e. evenly flowing lines moving top to bottom and bottom to top. On the Pitch picture. I'm not moving the stick at all.
Last edited by Slarti; 04/03/1912:20 PM.
#4468731 - 04/03/1904:20 PMRe: MMJoy - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Slarti]
Perhaps the Pitch Pot is just faulty or needs cleaning/lubing? (spiking on it own...try filter set to x14 in mmjoy) but you putting your hand on the base and it settling, makes me think you have some kind of grounding issue ( you are acting as the ground )
Ive having an issue with my mmjoy2 powered pedals, i recently reinstalled windows on my main comp because it had been a while and now after the reinstall they will not work on it anymore.
When i go to the Game Controllers dialog i see them correctly named as MMJoy2-pedal but when i hit "Properties" it opens the dialog but gives me this:
"Game controller Error Your game controller is not connected correctly. Please verify that it is plugged into your computer." In this dialog i get the buttons "Retry" and "Cancel"
Retry just gives the same again, cancel closes the properties window.
The pedals work fine on my secondary computer and even on this main comp i can see the three axis moving through DIview, Any ideas for how to make them work correctly again?
#4469818 - 04/10/1904:46 PMRe: MMJoy - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Ziddan]
Ive got the "arduino-1.8.9-windows.exe" with all the drivers it includes installed, the device is correctly listed among the USB devices in MMJoy, i can load the set from it, change it and save it to device again and there are no issues reported about it in the device manager.