Ok thanks for info AndyB. I just took a look at you sit and can see what you are referencing. Nice.

After spending a lot of time calibrating the hall potentiometer, I cannot remove dead space at both ends of the lever travel.
Surprisingly, calibration by itself does not correct the fact that the pot does not truly provide a 0-5 V range.
Even if I try to "trick" the travel of the lever by not full moving from stop to stop during calibration, the dead zone still persist.
Is the solution only through gear ratio?
At this point I cannot say that a hall pot is a good solution for precise end to end throttle control.
Even changing resolution in mmjoy does not alter this phenomenon.
Hopefully, someone has a good calibration technique to overcome this issue.
tc

What is the model of this "HALL potentiometer"?

https://www.ttiinc.com/content/ttiinc/en/apps/part-search.html?searchTerms=B%2FI6127V1A180L.5FS&systemsCatalog=&x=true


B/I6127V1A180L.5FS

OK. Bi-Tech, they are very good. I have used one in Cougar TQS throttle axis and work fine. I use one with 60º of electric angle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AE3l40g4YqY

The model that you link have 180º of electric angle, more than sufficient for a throttle, strange your calibration issues.

What I notice is that in mmjoy , the numbers move from the time the lever moves. In windows, however, the lever moves but the red strip does not move. This happens before and after the lever movement travel arc of 84 degrees. For a standard potentiometer, I have the gear ratio so that a lever movement of 84 degrees translates into appx 270 degrees, which is the electrical contact area of a standard pot.

Go to Windows Games Controller and do the calibration process, and after finish, hit APPLY.
If reading is a bit unstable in MMJoySetup increase filter number.

When you have a 270º pot or sensor and move then only 84º what happens is that the voltage variation don't varies from 0 to ~5v,
but from 0 to ~1.5v and then axis resolution is not the allowed by ADC, e.g. 10 bits (1024 points), but proportionally less.

Why conventional commercial pot with 270º, 300º of "electrical angle" is not suitable for joysticks, and "joystick pot", with 30º to 60º of "electrical travel", exist.

The ideal Bi-Tech HALL pot for your application is the model with 90º of electrical travel" probable code B/I6127V1A90L.

For use all their "electrical angle" rest add gears - and their backslash penalty, or better pulleys, an unnecessary complication, avoidable with proper selection of pot/sensor.

You are correct. However, I want the option to switch between a standard pot and a hall pot. For this, I must use gears. I have a cnc machine, so it's easy for me to cut gears. I thought that from 270 degrees to 180 degrees rotation compensation could be achieved with MMJOY. I see this will not be possible without proper gearing.

Hey all,
thanks for the reply's above. The work continues on the megaTQS. I'm now running into another issue or two that may be related.
Issue 1. The Antenna pot on the TQS only registers 1/2 of the travel while looking at it in MMJOY. (see attached photo. this is the gold/yellow line)
Issue 2. The throttle pot doesn't quite register all the way to the top (again, see photo). If I push the pot all the way down into the holder, then it seems to register, but when I assemble the throttle back together, I run into this problem. It seems like the throttle portion won't quite seat correctly/evenly into the base, either it's down all the way on the POT side or it's down all the way on the arm side. If I remove the throttle tension arm, everything seems to seat ok. Kbird, I know you have a lot of experience with the TQS...any ideas?

Thanks gang. I have one other design/button question, but I'll ask that later.

Ok, so I may have solved/addressed the "rocking issue physically", but when I closed up the TQS, and went to MMJOY, now both pots are only moving in the lower 50% of the window. I'm totally stumped. I can provide any other data you would need, again, if I have it all apart, the Pots seem work work correctly, when I put the handle together, then the range pot starts doing the 50% dance, and now that I have the full base together, the throttle is now exhibiting the same thing....only getting 50% range on it.

Also, as you may or may not recall, I've pillaged a 4021 shift register from an old FLCS for all the buttons on the TQS and these are all working fine. (I have added two 4 way switches from the FLCS, the 4 way hat replacing the range knob/button, and another 4 way replacing the "mouse").

My guess is you haven't run the MMjoy Calibrate Helper, and set Saved with Center?

and then fine Tuned it with VKB Joytester Open until it works as it should...... it takes some fiddling as every Pot is different

Once you have it right there then , run the Windows Calibrate Function Too to reset it


KB

Thanks KBird, I'll try that and see if that helps. I edited my post while you were in, so I added some more info.

Thx again.

No I hadn't seen your 2nd post or the edit ...so it may not be a calibration issue if they are working as expected while out of the TQS....

A short perhaps , so you are only getting 1/2 the Voltage hence 1/2 the value maybe.....sorry I am no expert on this.....

@Slarti
I think your reading are kinda good. Did you meter the voltage on those pots?...
The ADC will show you 0 when voltage is 0V and 1024 with it register 5V. So, it's a problem at the connections (poor connection, cold joints, small section in the wires...) or pots might be conductive (dirty maybe).

I did check my joystick and found out that even-thou the usb rail is providing 5.16 V with it connects to the Arduino board it drops to 4.68... rough guess is that it's a protection diode voltage drop. I'll research later how to apply 5V directly.
For example in my potentiometers the ADC reads from 0 to 960...

Thanks Forsaken,
I'll take things apart tonight. I'm wondering the following:
1. Are my elecircal hookups correct? I know the 5 wires from the shift register are good as the buttons are all working correctly. Initially I had both hot and ground tied into the hot and ground with the shift register, but that had fluky results, so I pulled the ground for the pots to the other side of the board. So now both pots are daisy chained, hot from Range pot to hot on throttle pot to primary hot on the Arduino Micro board. Ground from Range pot, to Ground on throttle pot to ground on other side of Arduino board.
2. I'm wondering i somehow the Arduino board is bad, i.e. got shocked or something. I reloaded the firmware, but that didn't help. I have spare pots and spare Arduino's so I may mess around with just hooking up a single pot to the board and seeing what happens or swapping out the boards....

For what I've seen the regulated voltage coming from the Arduino pass through a diode, that's the voltage drop in my case.

"Power Pins
There are a variety of power and power-related nets broken out:

RAW is the unregulated voltage input for the Pro Micro. If the board is powered via USB, the voltage at this pin will be about 4.8V (USB's 5V minus a schottkey diode drop). On the other hand, if the board is powered externally, through this pin, the applied voltage can be up to 12V.
VCC is the voltage supplied to the on-board ATmega32U4. This voltage will depend on whether you're using a 3.3V/8MHz Pro Micro or a 5V/16MHz version, it'll be either 3.3V or 5V respectively. This voltage is regulated by the voltage applied to the RAW pin. If the board is powered through the 'RAW' pin (or USB), this pin can be used as an output to supply other devices.
RST can be used to restart the Pro Micro. This pin is pulled high by a 10k&Ohm; resistor on the board, and is active-low, so it must be connected to ground to initiate a reset. The Pro Micro will remain "off" until the reset line is pulled back to high.
GND, of course, is the common, ground voltage (0V reference) for the system."

https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/pro-micro--fio-v3-hookup-guide/hardware-overview-pro-micro

Hey Forsaken,
I'm using the Arudino Micro by RobyDyn. Pinouts for the Mega TQS are attached.

But I guess it has the same type of protection.

The Pro Micro (or Leonardo) needs to be the 5V/16mhz type to work correctly with MMjoy2 Firmware.

I use both RAW (Power) and VCC (Power2) to separate the Pots (raw) and SR Boards (VCC) and also split the grounds. (GND)

Are your Pots only wired with 2 wires?

Did you remove the hidden silver wire on the RNG Pot?