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#4462621 - 02/23/19 01:08 PM Re: Hasegawa 1/48 Fw190A-8, Red 19 of 5./JG300 [Re: Ajay]  
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Done until i can prime them and do a final clean up but they should come up nicely once glued flush and with a bit of paint and weathering. Moving on into the wheel bay now to see what can be added there.


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#4462913 - 02/25/19 01:38 PM Re: Hasegawa 1/48 Fw190A-8, Red 19 of 5./JG300 [Re: Ajay]  
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Woot!

[Linked Image]


[Linked Image]



Things i did today. Sprayed my first primer, mixed and sprayed my first colour, spilt a tin of paint, wrecked x 1 shirt, nearly got high on thinners, airbrush cleaner and retarder.

My colour came out a bit lighter than i think it needs to be, it's supposed to be RLM02 , but as a first mix i was pretty happy i was in the ballpark and that it sprayed nicely. Two coats of the rlm home mix over the Vallejo grey primer. I spent an hour or so mucking around to get my paint consistency decent and then getting my air pressure right. Too thick, too much air, too less air, too thin, coming out splattery, coming out watery etc. Got it going really well in the end, for a noob anyway, and so much better than using spray cans. The tiniest amount goes so far!

The guy i ordered the gun and compressor from sent me the wrong fittings so it was a 30 minute journey to find what i needed at a hose fitting place snuck up in the local industrial area just to be able to hook the hose to the compressor and brush. What sort of model shop sells compressors, brushes etc and sends out the wrong fittings that don't suit either? Worked out better because the length of the fitting i have gives me a bit of a handle to grip onto, just need to find a small water trap to add to the setup near the brush. The compressor is surprisingly super quiet, i was expecting a bit more noise but with the radio on i had to lean over and see if it had kicked in..and it was running. Wicked, but just a little Chinese cheapy (Hseng 1/6hp) that should be all i need. Definitely have to look at some sort of air duct setup to blow the fumes out towards the neighbours with the barking dogs, i'd love to actually poison them..but then i'd have to take the dogs in and we got enough animals.

Oh, grabbed some of the Tamiya extra thin cement as well, and d amn, what i have been doing missing out on these goodies, it's near life changing as far as modelling goes.



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#4462923 - 02/25/19 02:39 PM Re: Hasegawa 1/48 Fw190A-8, Red 19 of 5./JG300 [Re: Ajay]  
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Been a few years since I last sprayed, but what for me really made life a lot easier (with Acrylics) was to add isopropyl alcohol to the distilled water. If you are using thinners I guess that's about the same chemicals.

Enjoy the new possibilities, seeing the great work you did with just cans this is going to look awesome.

#4462924 - 02/25/19 02:41 PM Re: Hasegawa 1/48 Fw190A-8, Red 19 of 5./JG300 [Re: Ajay]  
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i'd love to actually poison them..but then i'd have to take the dogs in and we got enough animals. biggrin

Nice to see you have a water trap. Many moons ago, my first and only try with an airbrush and cheap little compressor always had water in the line problems.

Last edited by Nixer; 02/26/19 11:30 PM. Reason: They don't teach spelling in college

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#4463085 - 02/26/19 04:51 PM Re: Hasegawa 1/48 Fw190A-8, Red 19 of 5./JG300 [Re: Ajay]  
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Nice work on the flaps Ajay, it's all looking very nice. Good luck with the airbrush. Extra thin cements are great (I use Mr. Cement S as a rule.) Much quicker bonds, and if you're very careful you can join parts lightly painted at the mating surfaces without making a mess of your paintwork.

Last edited by goon; 02/26/19 04:51 PM.

cheers
Gareth

UNDERSTEER - is when you hit the wall with the front wing.
OVERSTEER - is when you hit the wall with the back wing.
HORSEPOWER - is how fast you hit the wall.
TORQUE - is how far you can take the wall with you.

Read my scale modelling blog at www.latibuliser.com or mfhmazda787.com
#4463090 - 02/26/19 05:33 PM Re: Hasegawa 1/48 Fw190A-8, Red 19 of 5./JG300 [Re: goon]  
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Tenax7R was my glue/plastic welder of choice when still building. Fantastic stuff until you needed to disassemble, then it was time to get a new blade on the xacto or get the jewelers saw out. As for the airbrush, it totally enables you to up your game regards to finishing. Once you get the hang of it, you’ll wonder how you ever managed without one.

#4463249 - 02/27/19 05:20 PM Re: Hasegawa 1/48 Fw190A-8, Red 19 of 5./JG300 [Re: Ajay]  
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It's a real skill to airbrush tiny parts like that!


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#4463340 - 02/28/19 07:59 AM Re: Hasegawa 1/48 Fw190A-8, Red 19 of 5./JG300 [Re: Ajay]  
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Thanks for the kind words guys smile

The airbrush is really making me feel like a noob i can tell ya! I thought it was all going way too easy in the beginning. I had to walk away from it today after a mini disaster which included me making it worse, then shooting a shot (instead of one drop)of thinners into my paint cup and splattering paint everywhere making it worse. So let's start at the start.


Day two of owning an airbrush.


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I was getting constant paint even though i was only pushing down for air, about time to strip it and see how it all works. There is a spring adjustment for less or more pressure which is where i am mainly struggling when painting as i am struggling to find the line between nice and light and full bore runs. Adjusting doesn't seem to do a lot so i am going to find a slightly heavier duty spring if i can. I gave it all a thorough clean up and adjusted it as tight as she will go and it was spraying fine again. The next issue after some some spray testing was i had zero air coming out after i ran some thinners through it and then tapped the cup while it was upside down. Just zero air coming out. So i stripped the air valve of the bottom, no gunk anywhere i could see but the valve was a bit sticky and jerky. Maybe some thinners got down into it and got onto the o ring? Unsure, all i could think of though. Valve back on after pushing and pulling it up and down for a few minutes to free it up i had air again, although i had to find the sweet spot when tightening it to get the air holes lined up where the valve housing meets the brush. So that was all fun and games. It made me also start wondering if it was a bit of a junky airbrush, or if i am a bit heavy handed.

Moving right along. I had attempted some pre shading and had extremely average results, all user issues. The first coat of paint went on ok, a couple of dry tip issues which will be down to me still working out thinner v paint v retarder amounts to get the mix right but by the third coat it wasn't going too terribly. I thought i would get away with the join at the lower rear but once it had paint on, it stood out like dogs, sanding and putty needed. The Vallejo primer i had used comes off far too easily and with some research it seems to be fairly hit and miss with the same issues i was having with it. I couldn't seem to find a good mix with it so i'm ditching it for another product asap.



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I honestly thought the pre shading would be the easiest part biggrin At this stage i should have sanded because that splatter(s) has come back to haunt me now that i am doing the top coat. The thick jaggedy lines haven't made it any easier either. I sprayed some flat aluminim at the wing roots and then decanted some hairspray to spray over it so i can try out the hairspray chipping method later. That should be fun. I really shouldn't have bothered with that yet but what can i say, i see something that looks good and my brain goes, hey..that'll be so easy man! I swear my brain isn't on my side a lot of the time. So, last night while chatting about the upcoming v8 supercars season opener i showed my mate this picture below and he said "three years olds shouldn't be allowed near an airbrush" then my daughter finished off my agony by simply writing Dead on my test paper. Confidence building is what this family and my mates are all about. With that and my brain i have no idea anymore how this FW is going to turn out, but we will keep on slogging forward.



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Moving right along again. I'm still unsure of what makes a really good mix, i'm using 50/50 paint and thinner and then varying between using retarder and not. A basic mix will be this RLM 75: XF2:7 + XF24:3 + XF27:.5. So 10.5 drops of Tamiya Acrylic in total. 10 drops of the X20A Tamiya thinner and then 1 of retarder. Then i double or triple it depending on how much i am painting. My other issue had been that i wasn't fully holding the air all the way down once i pulled back and engaged the paint, once i realised this was happening i have started to become aware of it every time, more air, more air! Next issue was getting the air pressure right. The last coat of paint i applied was my neatest, i dropped the psi down to about 15-18 and don't seem to be getting as much overspray at the edges. Originally i was above 20 and even 30. Lot's of moments of dry tip (dried paint on the needle) causing splatters to shoot out. It never does it on the paper, only when you point it at the model. The airbrush effing knows. So, lot's to tweak and learn and i am trying not to blame the brush at all although that valve worries me if it can so easily become a problem. Anyway, this was one of my mixes, i need to make these up in a bottle really.


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It was just after spraying that colour that this happened.


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I pressed back to quickly on the trigger and flooded the area with colour, in a panic i grabbed a paper towel and made it worse when wiping it and then compounded it by wiping thinners over it. Then the thinner and paint spill happened and it all went to the dogs for a bit. I cleaned up the worst of mess and walked away for a bit as it gave me the shinizzles and already being frustrated, the spill topped it off. 1st world problems huh biggrin Attacking it again after a an hour break i cleaned up the whole area and then sat down and sanded the model all over, lightly, i am not losings panel lines on this one if i can help it. There was a fair bit of overspray anyway and some chunks that needed removal so not sanding was never an option. The gun cowl came up good with some 1500 grit and that Vallejo primer underneath just kept on falling off every time i even looked at it. Weird stuff. The very last mix and coat i have done was the grey (RLM75) at the lower psi which feels right for me and gave me some relief that it came out nice and i managed to control it a lot better than any attempt at painting so far. The green in these pics needs another coat still after just being sanded so hopefully will come up ok. I am going to have to do another coat of the light blue colour down the sides as well owing to earlier overspray and sanding since, the tail dots have some issues as well so it needs a light dust of the blue and new dots. Hopefully by tomorrow this thing will not be a wreck, stay tuned lol!


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edit - I've got two a new lamp as well with a 'daylight' bulb that is playing havoc with the phone camera, everything is coming out a bit too light at the moment so i need to see what i can do regards lighting for pics.



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#4463422 - 02/28/19 09:44 PM Re: Hasegawa 1/48 Fw190A-8, Red 19 of 5./JG300 [Re: Ajay]  
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Looking good. Airbrushing can be frustrating, and it's usually not readily apparent what's going wrong. I have some brands of paint I simply can not work with, that others use the same methods with and get along fine. I'm only just getting in to acrylics, finding the vagaries of ambient temperature and humidity just too melon twisting to get on with. Luckily the formulation of my favourite paint (Xtracolour) has changed so that it will dry hard overnight rather than anything up to the thick end of a week!


cheers
Gareth

UNDERSTEER - is when you hit the wall with the front wing.
OVERSTEER - is when you hit the wall with the back wing.
HORSEPOWER - is how fast you hit the wall.
TORQUE - is how far you can take the wall with you.

Read my scale modelling blog at www.latibuliser.com or mfhmazda787.com
#4463683 - 03/02/19 02:45 PM Re: Hasegawa 1/48 Fw190A-8, Red 19 of 5./JG300 [Re: Ajay]  
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I did a bunch of testing and snooping on the modelling forums Goon and then worked through a few things. I honestly didn't expect it to be as much of a black art as this but time and perseverance will see me through lol. First thing i did was bunch of mix and pressure testing to try and find a base line.




[Linked Image]


The best mix where i was getting no splatter was at about the 60/40 and 70/30 thinners/paint but the struggle then was a minute pull back on the trigger was causing me to flood everything with paint. I ended up dropping to 10-12 psi and it all started working a lot better. Over the last couple of days i have been using 65/35 and 12 psi and that seems to be the spot for me. The rest is just me continuing to practice and getting smooth with moving the brush and the trigger. I tell ya, i was starting to have my doubts about the whole airbrush deal, mainly in myself being able to do it. Next thing was the needle tip. I sat down while watching the V8's today and polished it up for the best part of 78 laps and afterwards managed to spray my first complete spray without a single splatter or dry tip issue. I was pretty happy with that smile




[Linked Image]


[Linked Image]



Still managed to make a mess of a few things over the last few days though. The hairspray chipping effect i was going for failed miserably. I used a brush with warm water and lightly covered the wing root area then waited a minute or so and lightly worked it with the brush and a toothpick. It was starting to work nicely in the wing root seam and a couple of other little spots on the trailing edge of the wing where it meets the body... and then the Vallejo primer underneath started lifting and it all went to the dogs. I swear i am never using it again, whether it was my application or the mix, i haven't had any joy with it at all and i'm looking for a different primer asap. I sanded the wing root and resprayed it, so no chipping this time around. Thanks god it sanded out, cleaned up and came back looking good once i had a couple of coats back on. The mix i made was a tiny bit darker (half an extra drop of the grey by mistake) than than the rest of the RLM75 but when dried i can't pick it . While that was drying i gave the drop tank a bit of work, it's coming along ok (I've yet to destroy it!)




[Linked Image]



The tale of the spinner spiral. What a pain these decals are. I thought i would give it a crack seeing as how the Mark Fit is such a good product. My theory was that even if it was finicky surely the MF would be able to force it into position and it has to be easier than painting. Nope, the shape is just wrong and refuses to sit neat from about 2/3rds of the way up the spinner. So after fiddling around for about 30 minutes i called it and decided it had to be painted, problem was that it had nearly dried on the spinner in some places and was a bit of a mess to get off. My brain chimed in with 'Here we go, this whole exercise will be fun..'




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The spinner isn't tiny, but it's tiny enough for my clumsy @ss hands to attempt to paint a spiral on, but, what are ya gonna do. I roughed it out to give me a guide and then spent way too much time trying to mask it. This was an exercise that was really starting to hurt my wee brain, but i'm a persistent sort of i diot so did as much as could until it just got too fine and hard to do the tip. I probably should have just sanded at this stage and started from scratch so i had a smooth surface to work with. See the whole persistent i diot thing.




[Linked Image]


[Linked Image]


Painting was a stack of thinner with some white and a stupidly small brush that my fingers still manage to turn into a mop. After about five coats i ended up with this.



[Linked Image]


So it wasn't great, but it also wasn't absolutely horrible. After drying i mucked around trying to knock back those edges and fix the tip of the spiral were it is a bit of a mess, and of course, made it worse. At one point i actually had it looking better and then decided, maybe some weathering dust will blend it! Again, nope.




[Linked Image]


[Linked Image]



So i washed the weathering dust off , nearly sanded it all back but instead spent about thirty minutes wandering around with it and a semi heavy duty make up brush just feathering it up and down whilst rotating it. Sounds nasty, but all legit. This smoothed it a bit and whitened the white up and i was about at the stage i was before the weathering. I touched up a few spots with a really weak black mix and a flattened toothpick, and some of the white spots to get some better looking curves (ooo yeah) then attacked it again with the make up brush and just stared at it for ages wondering if it looked better or worse. Not the highlight of my week that's for sure. I've ended up with the pic below and just had to pull up on it, i mean, how much time can you put into a spinner before you really have to question your sanity? I'm just calling it a field repaint by a drunk luftwaffe cook.




[Linked Image]


[Linked Image]



Finally moved back to the plane itself today after the excitement of the needle polishing. A mix of dark grey and black for the fuselage aft of the exhaust which will be sooted over later. Hopefully it isn't too dark but really i'm just happy i got paint on without wrecking anything. The rest of the of the paint job is finished at this stage. I blew a light coat of the RLM76 all over the previous coat so i could redo the mottling on the tail and the complete fuselage section. The grey and green upper wings and fuselage has been redone as well. I think the line demarcation is a lot finer the second time around as well as the gun hump area. Overall i'm pleased with it compared to the first attempt.




[Linked Image]




It is starting to look like a plane, there is a god! It's hard to pick the line between the upper grey and lower blue on the engine cowling owing to that daylight light bulb i just put in.




[Linked Image]


[Linked Image]


[Linked Image]


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#4463686 - 03/02/19 02:59 PM Re: Hasegawa 1/48 Fw190A-8, Red 19 of 5./JG300 [Re: Ajay]  
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That tiny 1/48 spinner detail........ jawdrop


"In the vast library of socialist books, there’s not a single volume on how to create wealth, only how to take and “redistribute” it.” - David Horowitz
#4464511 - 03/08/19 08:36 AM Re: Hasegawa 1/48 Fw190A-8, Red 19 of 5./JG300 [Re: Ajay]  
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Ajay Offline
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Update time.

She's on the home stretch now, plodding along quietly at night and slowly getting it done.



Undercarriage, i just brushed these instead of making another mix up. I need to be more organised when making a mix so all of the parts of a certain colour get a hit.


[Linked Image]




Exhausts. A crappy browny tan then a light black over the top followed with a soot weather. They aren't seen except for the tips, barely, once the cowling is on anyway. The remind me of my stock exhaust manifolds of my first little baby V8 (253ci) back in the mid '80's.


[Linked Image]


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A repaint i had to do because i had the camo colours flipped on the LH side. This then needed another repaint after drying owing to the colours not matching, the teensiest little drop extra of one of the colours and bleh.



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Some weathering for the bottom exhaust, most of this also ends up hidden under the drop tank mount.


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Gloss coat prior to decals, i definitely didn't put enough on but now i know that it makes it easier for getting the next one right.


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These little b uggers. I cut them as close as i could otherwise you have to trim the overhang once they have dried anyway.


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From there it is just some mucking around with a toothpick to get it lined up al nicely then swab away the excess markfit product with an earbud.


The decals are fairly thick but sat as good as could be expected with some help from the MarkFit. Multiple applications help them soften enough and i'm hoping once i flat it all out that they don't look so popped out. I've also mucked around with one side here with the exhaust soot.


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Mildly weathered side vs clean side. Undercarriage and drop tank and mounting are on. Armament in the background drying. Pretty happy with the decals despite the thickness. A small amount of silvering present and hopefully the top sheen of the decal will disappear once flatted.


[Linked Image]


[Linked Image]




My night time hidey hole i managed to make out of the little space left in the garage. The pizza time Peter Parker is one of my daughters old pieces from school that gets dragged around where ever i set up smile The dinosaur pic to the right of it i have been carting around since my lad was born in '96. That was the first thing he took in an interest one day at the shops from his pram so we grabbed it. He ditched it out of his room years ago but i torment him with it every now and again and threaten to put it back up. Also notice my s hitty modelling glasses, fifteen dollar specials so i don't get paint. glue or any other muck over my dear as poison Oakley prescription jobs.


[Linked Image]




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#4464529 - 03/08/19 12:10 PM Re: Hasegawa 1/48 Fw190A-8, Red 19 of 5./JG300 [Re: Ajay]  
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Lifer

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You may not be satisfied with your spinner but I think it’s great.


Good people sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf.

Someday your life will flash in front of your eyes. Make sure it is worth watching.
#4464549 - 03/08/19 03:32 PM Re: Hasegawa 1/48 Fw190A-8, Red 19 of 5./JG300 [Re: Ajay]  
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That's some amazing work, Ajay!

How about next time I post about wanting to build another model, you remind me that I get bored about half way through and to just send the kit to you and we'll just tell everyone I did it. biggrin


Sager NP8671 17.3" Notebook, i74720HQ (3.6GHz), GTX 970M (3.0GB), 8GB DDR3 RAM, 1TB 7200RPM HD, TrackIR 4, CH HOTAS and rudder pedals
#4464586 - 03/08/19 08:19 PM Re: Hasegawa 1/48 Fw190A-8, Red 19 of 5./JG300 [Re: Ajay]  
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goon Offline
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Very neat and tidy chap! Both the model and work space. Nice gear too.


cheers
Gareth

UNDERSTEER - is when you hit the wall with the front wing.
OVERSTEER - is when you hit the wall with the back wing.
HORSEPOWER - is how fast you hit the wall.
TORQUE - is how far you can take the wall with you.

Read my scale modelling blog at www.latibuliser.com or mfhmazda787.com
#4464646 - 03/09/19 05:42 AM Re: Hasegawa 1/48 Fw190A-8, Red 19 of 5./JG300 [Re: Ajay]  
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Ajay Offline
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Thanks guys, she has a few issues but like all the previous models it's added to the learning. I think 1/48 is a bit too fiddly for me to really enjoy as much as i could so it will be 1/32 after this one for the WWII jobs.

No thanks Malibu, i can stuff up my own models quite fine wthout worrying about wrecking anyone elses biggrin

I've avoided the cockpit for as long as i could but it's up now, we'll see how it goes smile


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#4464791 - 03/10/19 03:10 AM Re: Hasegawa 1/48 Fw190A-8, Red 19 of 5./JG300 [Re: Ajay]  
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Lifer
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Vienna, 2nd rock left.
Looking forward to your 1:32 attempts, as you are doing an absolutly great job with the 1:48.

#4464920 - 03/11/19 06:02 AM Re: Hasegawa 1/48 Fw190A-8, Red 19 of 5./JG300 [Re: Ajay]  
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Amongst the bikes, washing and other paraphernalia that lives in the garage is the Luftwaffe gun alignment stand. The outers may be sticking out too far, i'm not sure though i need to do some research on them as they are in all the way to the blocks.



[Linked Image]






The gunsight. Fairly sure i did not get the glass angles correct but because they are smaller than a gnats butt i was just happy being able to get them on without gunking the plastic.



[Linked Image]






Canopy. Happy with how these two pieces turned out. Masking was a pain whereas the unmasking was rewarding. The exact opposite of KISS.




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As is usual with my modelling, why do something once when you can do it twice. I had to remask the rear section again to do the top and repaint the rear as it was too thin. All of the small excess in this pic came off super easily with a toothpick which was my biggest worry with the clear pieces. I am wondering now if i have to remask to seal it with the final matt coat or just leave it be.




[Linked Image]





Two extra pieces for the gear i nearly forgot about. They really needed to go on when i glued the struts as i imagine they would have given me the exact alignment of the gear without me spending ages setting up a jig of sorts and mark 1 eyeballing it all. Anyway, they were a bit of a b astard to get on post gear gluing but much prodding, tongue alignment in mouth and flexing of plastic parts had them clip in. This pic is pre clipped in waiting for the centre mount to dry, you can see the little eyelet on the gear swinging in the breeze one side and the other one closer to camera extended past the leg cover.


[Linked Image]



Cheers all, she is nearly ready to fly..to a dusty life on a shelf.







My il2 page
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#4464927 - 03/11/19 10:31 AM Re: Hasegawa 1/48 Fw190A-8, Red 19 of 5./JG300 [Re: Ajay]  
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 25,138
RSColonel_131st Offline
Lifer
RSColonel_131st  Offline
Lifer

Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 25,138
Vienna, 2nd rock left.
You got a good handle on the airbrush quickly. and it really has raised your game.

#4464949 - 03/11/19 02:06 PM Re: Hasegawa 1/48 Fw190A-8, Red 19 of 5./JG300 [Re: Ajay]  
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,581
goon Offline
Apex avoidance specialist
goon  Offline
Apex avoidance specialist
Member

Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,581
Stone, UK
Nice progress. Definitely remask the transparencies before flat coating, the matt will cloud them if you don't.


cheers
Gareth

UNDERSTEER - is when you hit the wall with the front wing.
OVERSTEER - is when you hit the wall with the back wing.
HORSEPOWER - is how fast you hit the wall.
TORQUE - is how far you can take the wall with you.

Read my scale modelling blog at www.latibuliser.com or mfhmazda787.com
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