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#4456993 - 01/12/19 01:55 PM Re: OT - Barkers B6313 ***** [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Beautiful and Amazing work Mike.


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#4456994 - 01/12/19 01:57 PM Re: OT - Barkers B6313 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Yep, it’s another masterpiece! Very impressive


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#4457012 - 01/12/19 04:34 PM Re: OT - Barkers B6313 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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I. Have to ask what technique you used to apply the weathering in the first photo. I can readily see the brush trokes but also I see what looks like splatter patterns.

Very interesting!


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#4457027 - 01/12/19 06:58 PM Re: OT - Barkers B6313 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Hi Rob,
Here's an extract from the PDF build log for the model:

Mike

---------------------------------------------

'Flory Models' clay washes: These washes come in various shades and consist of a suspended and very fine clay pigment. They are brushed over the surface to be weathered and dry in around 30 minutes. When dry, use either a piece of good, absorbent kitchen roll or a brush used for oil paint (as the bristles are harder than normal painting brushes) to remove as much of the clay wash as you need to achieve the desired effect. Once dampened, the dried clay is re-activated and the clay wash can be removed or worked as required.
First I seal the surface with airbrushed ‘Alclad’ Klear Light Sheen (ALC-311), which dries quickly.
NOTE:A gloss coat tends to stop the clay wash ‘gripping’ the surface when it is applied and it can run off or just puddle. A matte coat can cause the clay wash to ‘grip’ too much, making it difficult to remove or even to wash it off completely.

To apply the clay wash is just a matter of brushing all over the surface to be weathered. It doesn’t matter really how much is applied as it can be left on for any period, as it is easily removed without any effect on the surface underneath. The washes I tend to use are the ‘Flory Models’ Clay Wash ’Grime’ and ’Dark Dirt’.

I use a fairly stiff oil brush to brush off the clay wash, but for smearing effects, an only very slightly damp brush or absorbent paper can be used, but even then I dab them onto a dry piece of the paper. That’s how ‘damp’ it needs to be. Any wetter and you’ll find that you are removing too much of the clay wash. If that happens you would have to re-apply the wash and start again.
That said, if you not happy with the final effect, you can easily remove the clay wash by brushing with a wet brush or even airbrush water over the surface. Dry off the surfaces washed and then re-apply the clay wash and try again until you are satisfied.
The technique is to brush over the surface to re-activate the clay wash and at the same time, to smear it over areas that had no clay wash. It’ll dry more or less straight away.
Then I’ll very lightly stiff brush and/or use a piece of damp absorbent paper or brush to remove as much as I want until I get the desired effect. If I remove too much I just reapply clay wash to that area and repeat the removal procedure.
Once finished, just run the brush under a tap to rinse out any residual clay pigments.
Finally I seal the surface with airbrushed ‘Alclad’ Clear Light Sheen (ALC-311), or other surface sealer, which will seal in the applied clay wash.
NOTE: Flory washes can be mixed to create other colour blends.

--------------------------------------------


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#4457058 - 01/12/19 09:21 PM Re: OT - Barkers B6313 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Originally Posted by Sandbagger
Hi Rob,
Here's an extract from the PDF build log for the model:

Mike

---------------------------------------------

'Flory Models' clay washes: These washes come in various shades and consist of a suspended and very fine clay pigment. They are brushed over the surface to be weathered and dry in around 30 minutes. When dry, use either a piece of good, absorbent kitchen roll or a brush used for oil paint (as the bristles are harder than normal painting brushes) to remove as much of the clay wash as you need to achieve the desired effect. Once dampened, the dried clay is re-activated and the clay wash can be removed or worked as required.
First I seal the surface with airbrushed ‘Alclad’ Klear Light Sheen (ALC-311), which dries quickly.
NOTE:A gloss coat tends to stop the clay wash ‘gripping’ the surface when it is applied and it can run off or just puddle. A matte coat can cause the clay wash to ‘grip’ too much, making it difficult to remove or even to wash it off completely.

To apply the clay wash is just a matter of brushing all over the surface to be weathered. It doesn’t matter really how much is applied as it can be left on for any period, as it is easily removed without any effect on the surface underneath. The washes I tend to use are the ‘Flory Models’ Clay Wash ’Grime’ and ’Dark Dirt’.

I use a fairly stiff oil brush to brush off the clay wash, but for smearing effects, an only very slightly damp brush or absorbent paper can be used, but even then I dab them onto a dry piece of the paper. That’s how ‘damp’ it needs to be. Any wetter and you’ll find that you are removing too much of the clay wash. If that happens you would have to re-apply the wash and start again.
That said, if you not happy with the final effect, you can easily remove the clay wash by brushing with a wet brush or even airbrush water over the surface. Dry off the surfaces washed and then re-apply the clay wash and try again until you are satisfied.
The technique is to brush over the surface to re-activate the clay wash and at the same time, to smear it over areas that had no clay wash. It’ll dry more or less straight away.
Then I’ll very lightly stiff brush and/or use a piece of damp absorbent paper or brush to remove as much as I want until I get the desired effect. If I remove too much I just reapply clay wash to that area and repeat the removal procedure.
Once finished, just run the brush under a tap to rinse out any residual clay pigments.
Finally I seal the surface with airbrushed ‘Alclad’ Clear Light Sheen (ALC-311), or other surface sealer, which will seal in the applied clay wash.
NOTE: Flory washes can be mixed to create other colour blends.

--------------------------------------------


Mike that is interesting and quite complex. What I noticed and didn't see and explanation for is that in the first pic you can see what appears to be round blotches which resemble the after appearance of drops which have fully dried and left an outer rim of dark pigment. Almost looks like you had flicked the end of the brush with a finger tip to deposit splashes. Can you explain how that was achieved?


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#4457062 - 01/12/19 09:38 PM Re: OT - Barkers B6313 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Hi Rob,
Nothing so subtle or intentional.
I just loaded the brush and spread the wash all over the model.
What you see as 'pools' of dried wash are literally just that.
The technique is very simple and no matter how much wash is dried on the model, a damp brush or tissue will lift it straight of,

Mike


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#4457063 - 01/12/19 09:38 PM Re: OT - Barkers B6313 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Hi all,
Just a few more showing weathering.
For those who are wondering what the four black things under the fuselage are and the 'ears' sticking out of the engine carburetor intake:
This aircraft was photographed with under fuselage attachment brackets for a 'Cooper' bomb rack' However no photographs I could find show the actual rack as being fitted. 
Sopwith Camels serving in the Italian theater had a field service mod carried out to fit 'funnels' to the carburetor air intake tubes, to increase airflow to the engine as they operated at higher altitudes than on the Western Front.
Barker's B6313 had both fitted,

Mike

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#4457064 - 01/12/19 10:02 PM Re: OT - Barkers B6313 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Mike;

That's quite astute of you to pick up on the cooper bomb racks and in particular the carburetor funnels. I'm really impressed. That was some fine research indeed. You now have me going back to my Barker source book "William Barker VC by Wayne Ralph" for reference. Have you by chance seen or read this book?


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#4457088 - 01/13/19 02:38 AM Re: OT - Barkers B6313 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Amazing detail Sandbagger. This is defiantly a show winner!

#4457103 - 01/13/19 11:24 AM Re: OT - Barkers B6313 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Thanks guys.

Rob
I've not read that particular book, one day maybe.


Mike

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#4457179 - 01/13/19 09:09 PM Re: OT - Barkers B6313 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Hi all,
The undercarriage is now braced.
Although you can't see it very well in the shot, there is a turnbuckle bracing line routed across the front of the axle fairing.
The end fittings are 0.4 mm nickel-silver tube with 0.5 mm aluminium nuts.
All that's left is to create the 'bungee' suspension and the undercarriage is done.
Then it's on to rigging the aircraft.

Mike

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#4457187 - 01/13/19 09:45 PM Re: OT - Barkers B6313 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Sandbagged, the detailing is insane! How big is the wrench for those 0.5 mm aluminum nuts?


"Take the cylinder out of my kidneys,
The connecting rod out of my brain, my brain,
From out of my arse take the camshaft,
And assemble the engine again."
#4457204 - 01/13/19 11:33 PM Re: OT - Barkers B6313 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Fullofit;

Actually, I think this one is flyable! In fact I wouldn't be surprised if it is actually the real thing shrunk down by some futuristic miniturization converter machine!!


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#4457213 - 01/14/19 01:26 AM Re: OT - Barkers B6313 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Robert, that probably would be the easiest way to go about building scale models. Even blind people like me would be able to do it then. Forget about weathering washes. Just don’t wash it.


"Take the cylinder out of my kidneys,
The connecting rod out of my brain, my brain,
From out of my arse take the camshaft,
And assemble the engine again."
#4457233 - 01/14/19 06:44 AM Re: OT - Barkers B6313 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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That remembers me the shrunken heads of amazon headhunters. Maybe similar procedure?

#4457247 - 01/14/19 01:17 PM Re: OT - Barkers B6313 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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.

Truly fantastic work Sandbagger, the detail is amazing. I do hope you're close to finishing it up as I imagine Robert is getting itchy for it. Also, you should take a little break after this one before you start on mine, because I can wait. winkngrin

As to the idea that our resident artisan here has some futuristic process that is allowing him to shrink down the real thing, well, there are a couple of problems with that. First, he would need to have a beautiful, full-sized example at his disposal to shrink down. Second, while you cannot reduce the size of the atoms themselves, you could theoretically reduce the space between said atoms in any given object, thus reducing its overall size. However, this would result in --- class --- anyone, anyone --- class --- a miniaturized object with the same mass as its full-sized counterpart. You would need a desk to display it on capable of supporting half a ton. And pray to God it does not roll off that desk and land on the cat, unless of course you don't care for the cat in which case not a problem - except for the cat.

.


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#4457248 - 01/14/19 01:28 PM Re: OT - Barkers B6313 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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rofl Ah Lou, I can always count on you to present a highly creative logical solution accompanied with an equal portion of humour! You have again, provided my "Morning Smile"! Thank you Sir

Last edited by Robert_Wiggins; 01/14/19 01:29 PM.

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#4457252 - 01/14/19 02:08 PM Re: OT - Barkers B6313 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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I beg to differ. Just look at the example Tripple-J provided with the shrunken heads. The size was reduced and the weight has not increased. They simply boiled away the unnecessary stuff. So, Sandbagger, stop boiling perfectly good airplanes!


"Take the cylinder out of my kidneys,
The connecting rod out of my brain, my brain,
From out of my arse take the camshaft,
And assemble the engine again."
#4457446 - 01/15/19 08:16 PM Re: OT - Barkers B6313 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Hi all,
The wing struts and the cabane struts have been pre-rigged and left 'slack'.
They'll be finally tightened and secured once the upper wing is fitted.
As with the undercarriage bracing, the end fittings are 0.4 mm nickel-silver tube with 0.5 mm aluminium nuts, although it's difficult to make them out in the shots..
Now it's on to pre-rigging the wing and flight controls!!

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Mike


[Linked Image]

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#4457473 - 01/15/19 11:32 PM Re: OT - Barkers B6313 [Re: Sandbagger]  
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Robert_Wiggins Offline
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Ah, Mike, I see the 36 victory stripes on the strut!! Amazing and so well done. Is it a decal or are your hands that steady with a brush, mate!!


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