Hi all,
I thought you might like to the progress of my 16th 1:32 scale build - The Sopwith F1 ‘Camel’.
This model represents the Sopwith F1 ‘Camel’, Serial No.B6313 (later modified version), as flown by Major William G Barker, CO of No.139 Squadron, RAF, based at Villaverla, Italy during August 1918.

Thus far I've completed the engine and cockpit, plus other modifications to model parts.

The cockpit, as always, took the longest to complete due to the many modifications etc.

Resin replacement Wicker Seat and cushion.
Fabric replacement seat belts.
Copper micro-tubes for fuel supply to engine, main and auxiliary fuel tanks, fuel contents indicator and fuel tank pressurization.
Brass micro-tubes for a pipe 4-way union, pipe connectors and fuel filter.
Lead wire for gun trigger cables and engine ‘blip’ switch.
Rigging wires with turnbuckles for cockpit side frame, under shield and floor bracing.
Flight control cables with turnbuckles for Ailerons, rudder, elevator and tail skid.
Micro-tube for throttle control linkage.

Mike

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Fan-friggin-tastic! You are quite the craftsman Sandbagger and I look forward to seeing the completed project.

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Thanks Lou.
I hope Rob Wiggins will like it as well, as this build will be going to him once completed,

Mike

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Lucky, lucky Robert! So aaaaah, how does one get on the list?

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He Heh - there is no list Lou.
Rob asked me some time ago after seeing some of my models, of which I've still got 50 in my stash to build (I should live that long),

Mike

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Well then Mike, perhaps there's a particular vintage WWI aviation book you've been wanting that could find its way to you, after which one of your stellar models could find its way to me. Just a thought.

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That’s amazing Mike! I build aircraft models but I am not anywhere in your league! Beautiful! As Lou stated I can’t wait to see the finished product!
Cheers!

Simply extraordinary modeling. Your are quite the craftsman that is definitely museum quality work. I like Lou cannot wait to see the finished model. I just finished a book about Barker that was his favorite he flew it a long time. Great work
John

Stunning work. Thank you for sharing.

B6313 was completed by the Sopwith Aviation Co. Ltd of Kingston-on-Thames and delivered to the Aeroplane Acceptance Park at Kenley on 11 September 1917. On 24 September B6313 went to No.28 Sqn RFC based at Yatesbury. No.28 Sqn was getting ready to go to France and on 2 October a new 'C' Flight commander joined the squadron. William George Barker and B6313 were to be together for the next year. During the year of operational flying B6313 had amassed 404 hours, 10 minutes of flying time, of which Barker put in 379 hours 25 minutes. With an unprecedented 46 claims in one plane flown by the same pilot, B6313 has been called the single most-successful fighter aircraft in the history of the RAF.

Cheers,
shredward

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Ted, you are a veritable wellspring of such knowledge, thanks for sharing.

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SandBagger, that modelling work is amazing. As the others have said, I can't wait to see the finished project.

S!Blade<><

Thanks Shredder for your historical background. Being a Barker fan I was quite aware of it but others may not be.

Hi Lou, you are more than welcome to visit me if you are ever up this way and I will let you drool over the model...but not too closely

Being a former IPMS member and model builder (ATV )Primarily, I so much respect and admire Sandbaggers work that I just had to have this one for my WOFF desk. No expenses spared!

If I ever get back to the UK, Mike's museum is top of my list, and I will be sure to share a pint or two on my tab.

Best Regards

Hi all,
The 'Lang' propeller is done as are the 'Vickers' guns,

Mike

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Mike, the detail you achieve is truly amazing!

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Mike, is that the "little red devil" I see on the vickers? WOW, such minute dhistorical details. Did you scratch build it and if not, who makes them?

I am really enjoying following along with the build.

Best Regards

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I'll bet you are enjoying it Robert. And speaking of devils, aren't you the lucky one!

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That's true Lou.

Funny thing about acquisitions in one's life! The anticipation and emotional build up is more than half of the enjoyment in acquiring something one desires. The other half is in the appreciation of being able to enjoy it.

This Camel will sit on my WOFF desk and thoroughly appreciated by me every time I sit there. My only fear is that it may distract me from my WOFF DiD campaign flights and you well know the possible impact of that!

I plan to approach the Canadian War Museum who currently display Barker's medals and see if they would be interested in possessing this model upon my departure from my mortal coil (hopefully no time soon) .

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Most certainly no time soon Robert, we need you here! By the way, if the CWM doesn't wish to have the model in question, I know someone who would. He's a fine fellow, a stand-up guy really, and well-read on the subject of WWI aviation.

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Hi Rob,
The Red Devil is a photo-etch option in this particular kit, as the kit has the option of the earlier colour scheme for B6313.
Handy as it saved me making it,

Mike

Mike amazing that it was included in the kit. I have never seen a "Wings nut Wings" kit. What is your experience with them in regards to mold integrity, fit and finish? If there are any short comings, what might they be?

Best Regards;

You are #2 on the list Sir!

(I have nothing to add - I'm just staring in awe. and jealousy. but mostly awe)

@Sandbagger:

I've just started Hasegawa's 1:16 scale Camel (these old eyes and and clumsy hands don't do smaller scales so well any more), and I have to say that the work you're doing here in 1:32 is truly inspirational! Do you plan to cloth&dope the model or leave it bare?
In any event, 'eager to see more of your progress.
cheers,
ym

Rob:
If you ask anyone who is into WW1 aircraft models they will doubtless say Wingnut Wings (WNW) are right at the top regards quality, accuracy and reference/instructions information.
They started out in 2009 since when they've released many models, all in 1:32 scale. In fact they will be releasing the WW2 Lancaster in the same scale in 2019 - a departure for them from WW1.
I've many models in my stash, from the likes of not only WNW, but Roden, HPH, Omega, Aviattic, Special Hobby, Hobby Craft, Academy and Planet, but none compare to WNW.
If they have a 'problem' it's only that the tolerances of the kit parts are so well engineered that care needs to be taken regards part joints. The slightest build up of primer, paint or sealing coats in any joint will cause the parts not to fully seat together.
The kits are not cheap but I guess you pay for what you get.

YM:
I've not built in 1:16 but I have seen some pretty spectacular models built.
As for this model, it'll be 'fully clothed', although I am planning to build a dual Fokker D.VII model with one complete and one 'skeleton' stripped and showing all of the structure, controls etc, with a figure of Anthony Fokker stood between them.
I'm also planning another dual display of a Fokker Eindecker alongside a modern day Luftwaffe Typhoon, with the two pilots looking at each others aircraft.
One day that is!!

Mike

Thanks for that Mike. I suspected as much and your confirmation is appreciated.
Yorke idea for those two Dios sounds really good.

https://www.greatwarforum.org/topic...n-location-of-on-sunday-27-october-1918/

cheers,
shredward

Hi all,
It's been a few weeks since I posted for this build - been on vacation.
Anyway the two figures are completed now - Barker himself and his mechanic (who will be working on the engine cowl).
I'm currently cutting and applying the 'Aviattic' linen effect decals to the models (light PC12 and CDL) - a time consuming job as they are not cookie cut, so accurate paper templates need to be cut first then used to trace the outline onto the decals sheet.

Mike

Great, now I feel really silly for being proud of my handiwork after crudely painting a chintzy barely-any-assembly-required plastic kit of the Memphis Belle.

The linen effect decals for the PC12 are on now,

Mike

Again. I hate everyone who can paint so good

nope, not buying it. those clearly have to be pics of the real thing. No mere mortal can do that.

friggin' incredible.

Hi all,
The linen effect decals for the CDL are on now.
The photo is in strong light and doesn't really show the slight applied pre-shading very well.
These and the PC12 decals are basic and will be weathered etc later in the build,

Mike

Ah, things are progressing I see. Is that metal tape running the legth of the fuselage edges? Did the linen come pre coloured, the yellow base coat lioks good and I can see the pre colored shadind clearly.

That's an awesome piece of info - thanks so much for sharing! I've been doing a little bit of skinning for the Pre-Release Flying Circus Vol. 1, do you mind if I include the facts from your write-up in my post if I end up doing B6313?

Edit: By the way, a section of B6313's vertical Stabiliser (the section with the heart insignia on it) is on display in Hendon's RAF Museum. It's really cool, and worth checking out!

Wulfe, that a great pic and thanks for sharing. Really cool to know if it.

Best Regards

Hi Rob,
No it's not tape but a slight gap I left to allow me to weather along the edges without damaging or lifting the 'Aviattic' linen decals.
Even when sealed the decals can be easily damaged if handled too much, so I wear lint free gloves once the decals are on,

Mike

The direction of the arrow head is correct for the last version of B6313's scheme.
The earlier version had the arrow head pointing down and towards the bottom rear of the fin,

Mike

Well, I've been following this for a while, it's always amazing to watch Sandbagger's unparalleled craftsmanship! Absolutely museum quality!

Someday, Mike, someday... and I only have about 6 kits in my stash!

Hi all,
The model is progressing now.
The 'Aviattic' linen effect decals have had the kit decals added, plus decal black/white stripes.
After sealing it's all have a 'Flory' Dark Dirt wash and 'Tamiya' weathering master highlights.
The final weathering will be 'AK Interactive' oil/kerosene enamel for engine staining.
Then it's on to pre-rigging and assembly,

Mike

Beautiful and Amazing work Mike.

Yep, it’s another masterpiece! Very impressive

I. Have to ask what technique you used to apply the weathering in the first photo. I can readily see the brush trokes but also I see what looks like splatter patterns.

Very interesting!

Hi Rob,
Here's an extract from the PDF build log for the model:

Mike

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'Flory Models' clay washes: These washes come in various shades and consist of a suspended and very fine clay pigment. They are brushed over the surface to be weathered and dry in around 30 minutes. When dry, use either a piece of good, absorbent kitchen roll or a brush used for oil paint (as the bristles are harder than normal painting brushes) to remove as much of the clay wash as you need to achieve the desired effect. Once dampened, the dried clay is re-activated and the clay wash can be removed or worked as required.
First I seal the surface with airbrushed ‘Alclad’ Klear Light Sheen (ALC-311), which dries quickly.
NOTE:A gloss coat tends to stop the clay wash ‘gripping’ the surface when it is applied and it can run off or just puddle. A matte coat can cause the clay wash to ‘grip’ too much, making it difficult to remove or even to wash it off completely.

To apply the clay wash is just a matter of brushing all over the surface to be weathered. It doesn’t matter really how much is applied as it can be left on for any period, as it is easily removed without any effect on the surface underneath. The washes I tend to use are the ‘Flory Models’ Clay Wash ’Grime’ and ’Dark Dirt’.

I use a fairly stiff oil brush to brush off the clay wash, but for smearing effects, an only very slightly damp brush or absorbent paper can be used, but even then I dab them onto a dry piece of the paper. That’s how ‘damp’ it needs to be. Any wetter and you’ll find that you are removing too much of the clay wash. If that happens you would have to re-apply the wash and start again.
That said, if you not happy with the final effect, you can easily remove the clay wash by brushing with a wet brush or even airbrush water over the surface. Dry off the surfaces washed and then re-apply the clay wash and try again until you are satisfied.
The technique is to brush over the surface to re-activate the clay wash and at the same time, to smear it over areas that had no clay wash. It’ll dry more or less straight away.
Then I’ll very lightly stiff brush and/or use a piece of damp absorbent paper or brush to remove as much as I want until I get the desired effect. If I remove too much I just reapply clay wash to that area and repeat the removal procedure.
Once finished, just run the brush under a tap to rinse out any residual clay pigments.
Finally I seal the surface with airbrushed ‘Alclad’ Clear Light Sheen (ALC-311), or other surface sealer, which will seal in the applied clay wash.
NOTE: Flory washes can be mixed to create other colour blends.

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Mike that is interesting and quite complex. What I noticed and didn't see and explanation for is that in the first pic you can see what appears to be round blotches which resemble the after appearance of drops which have fully dried and left an outer rim of dark pigment. Almost looks like you had flicked the end of the brush with a finger tip to deposit splashes. Can you explain how that was achieved?

Hi Rob,
Nothing so subtle or intentional.
I just loaded the brush and spread the wash all over the model.
What you see as 'pools' of dried wash are literally just that.
The technique is very simple and no matter how much wash is dried on the model, a damp brush or tissue will lift it straight of,

Mike

Hi all,
Just a few more showing weathering.
For those who are wondering what the four black things under the fuselage are and the 'ears' sticking out of the engine carburetor intake:
This aircraft was photographed with under fuselage attachment brackets for a 'Cooper' bomb rack' However no photographs I could find show the actual rack as being fitted. 
Sopwith Camels serving in the Italian theater had a field service mod carried out to fit 'funnels' to the carburetor air intake tubes, to increase airflow to the engine as they operated at higher altitudes than on the Western Front.
Barker's B6313 had both fitted,

Mike

Mike;

That's quite astute of you to pick up on the cooper bomb racks and in particular the carburetor funnels. I'm really impressed. That was some fine research indeed. You now have me going back to my Barker source book "William Barker VC by Wayne Ralph" for reference. Have you by chance seen or read this book?

Amazing detail Sandbagger. This is defiantly a show winner!

Thanks guys.

Rob
I've not read that particular book, one day maybe.


Mike

Hi all,
The undercarriage is now braced.
Although you can't see it very well in the shot, there is a turnbuckle bracing line routed across the front of the axle fairing.
The end fittings are 0.4 mm nickel-silver tube with 0.5 mm aluminium nuts.
All that's left is to create the 'bungee' suspension and the undercarriage is done.
Then it's on to rigging the aircraft.

Mike

Sandbagged, the detailing is insane! How big is the wrench for those 0.5 mm aluminum nuts?

Fullofit;

Actually, I think this one is flyable! In fact I wouldn't be surprised if it is actually the real thing shrunk down by some futuristic miniturization converter machine!!

Robert, that probably would be the easiest way to go about building scale models. Even blind people like me would be able to do it then. Forget about weathering washes. Just don’t wash it.

That remembers me the shrunken heads of amazon headhunters. Maybe similar procedure?

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Truly fantastic work Sandbagger, the detail is amazing. I do hope you're close to finishing it up as I imagine Robert is getting itchy for it. Also, you should take a little break after this one before you start on mine, because I can wait.

As to the idea that our resident artisan here has some futuristic process that is allowing him to shrink down the real thing, well, there are a couple of problems with that. First, he would need to have a beautiful, full-sized example at his disposal to shrink down. Second, while you cannot reduce the size of the atoms themselves, you could theoretically reduce the space between said atoms in any given object, thus reducing its overall size. However, this would result in --- class --- anyone, anyone --- class --- a miniaturized object with the same mass as its full-sized counterpart. You would need a desk to display it on capable of supporting half a ton. And pray to God it does not roll off that desk and land on the cat, unless of course you don't care for the cat in which case not a problem - except for the cat.

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Ah Lou, I can always count on you to present a highly creative logical solution accompanied with an equal portion of humour! You have again, provided my "Morning Smile"! Thank you Sir

I beg to differ. Just look at the example Tripple-J provided with the shrunken heads. The size was reduced and the weight has not increased. They simply boiled away the unnecessary stuff. So, Sandbagger, stop boiling perfectly good airplanes!

Hi all,
The wing struts and the cabane struts have been pre-rigged and left 'slack'.
They'll be finally tightened and secured once the upper wing is fitted.
As with the undercarriage bracing, the end fittings are 0.4 mm nickel-silver tube with 0.5 mm aluminium nuts, although it's difficult to make them out in the shots..
Now it's on to pre-rigging the wing and flight controls!!





Mike

Ah, Mike, I see the 36 victory stripes on the strut!! Amazing and so well done. Is it a decal or are your hands that steady with a brush, mate!!

I wish my hands were that steady Rob, but no, they are decals,

Mike

Hi all,
The underside of the upper wing has now been pre-rigged.
Also the fin bracing has been done as well as the steerable tail skid control lines.
The last rigging to do before the upper wing is fitted are the twin rudder control lines,

Mike

Mike that is amazing! It's hard to conceive that the root connections for the wires can actually hold the tension and I imagine adjusting it all when the wings are in place is rather touchy.

Hi Rob,
Those bits are tricky due to the small size and restricted working area.
The wings rigging should be a bit easier as I've pre-rigged the upper wing, so that's half the job.
The nickel-silver micro-tubes and aluminium nuts are secured in the model and to the rigging line using thin CA adhesive, so it'll take a fair bit of tension.
I normally fully tighten the lines, after they're installed, using heat applied along the line, which shrinks it to take out any slack present.
As long as I don't get too close to the line or model of course!!!

Mike

Mike

Are the lines a monofilament painted with metal coating?

Hi Rob,
The mono-filament I use for primary rigging (flying wires, landing wires, undercarriage) is 'Steelon' Fluorocarbon coated 0.12 mm diameter.
For cross bracing, control lines and cockpit control lines, I'm using 'Stroft' GTM Silicon-PTFE tempered monofil of 0.08 mm diameter.
Both are installed as they comes, which has a steel like finish, the sheen of which is 'knocked back' by airbrushing a clear semi-matte or light sheen sealing coat.
The photos posted show reflected light, which gives the impression of a metal coating.

The twin rudder control lines with turnbuckles and the aileron control wire horns have been pre-rigged.
The last bit of pre-rigging will be the elevator control wire horns.

Mike

Wow, an amazing amount of after market product now-a-days!! I must make a point of researching the new products just to keep abreast.

So....am I to assume all those cockpit controls are operational??

It's looking extremely fine Mike! (Says Rob, quickly wiping up his drool).

Just masterful work, truly.

So a .5 mm nut is 1/50th of an inch or 20 mils... I can't imagine how you work with something that small, do you have one of those big, stationary magnifiers? I'm straining my reading glasses just to SEE the things!
Some day, maybe... some day.

Keep up the good work, you are an inspiration!

Hi Tom;

I have seen pictures of his workshop and unless my memory fails me, he does have one of those magnifier lenses, but still, you have a valid point in that although you can see the details with such a lens, it is still an art to have the steady hands holding tweezers to manipulate those incredibly small components. This is also a case of "Patience and Persistence are the necessary Virtues" scanarios!

Hi Rob:
'are these controls operational' - yeah you wish

Tom:
Yes I do use an 8 inch, x1.5 maginification lense which is also LED daylight lit. This in addition to an overhead ceiling mounted LED studio light.
Even so, when threading 0.08 mm line through a 0.4 mm tube, I still need to rest my eyes and take a break every now and then.

Mike

How are you going to send this piece of art to Robert?

Click here to see what may happen

on the 1:16 Hasegawa Camel build I'm working on all the control lines/rigging are functional... rigging nightmare/heaven (depending on one's perspective)...

question: Sandbagger, where did you source your turnbuckle hex nuts from? I've been looking at these (following your lead of using .5mms at 1:32, per the 1:16 scale of the Hasegawa kit I'll likely then go for 1mms), but 'would readily go with another vendor on your recommendation (and would prefer to use a UK-based source)...

cheers,
ym

Well....Let's hope not!

Mike

what type of heat source are you using to shrink the mono-filament. Just wondering if it's a heat gun type.

Thanks for the details, Mike & Rob. My son was just by today and he was saying we have to get a modeling desk set up. If I can just get some time. But at 63, I've already got 1.75x readers. My father-in-law will be 90 in the spring, and he's still building balsa and tissue planes (hence my thread on the Pfalz D3 propeller). But yeah, I do like to detail my models, if I can ever find the time to build. My company has me working as many hours as possible, which is nice on payday, but pretty consuming life-wise.

But I sure love watching & trying to learn from these builds. True museum quality!

Hi all,
Time to rig the wings!!

Mike




Fullofit:
That's exactly what I'm afraid off!!

YM:
From the States.

http://www.rbmotion.com/

Rob:
I carefully move a small and pre-heated soldering iron tip along and close to each line - it's fraught with danger but I've found it to be the most effective method.

Humandrone:
I'm lucky in that I retired in '96 some have plenty of time to research and build these models. My 'man cave' is not that big but does give me the modelling, computer and games PC room I need.

Thanks for that tip Mike. I just wanted to be sure what approach to take if I find any of the wires a little loose during the first flight!

Hi Rob,
Lets hope if anything needs doing after the 'first flight' it will be something simple to remedy

Mike

Hi all,
The cross bracing for the outer wing struts, cabane struts and forward fuselage are done.
The line tags will be cut away and any slackness in the lines sorted, once the remaining wing landing and flying wires are rigged.

Mike

The detail of the rigging is just fantastic Mike!
I zoomed in on the pics and notrd the twist on each wire. Is that an illusion or is each wire composed of twisted pairs?

Hi Rob,
I think it's an effect of the photographs - no intended twist in the wires,

Mike

Hi all,
I think I'll call the rigging done!!
There's still few tweaks to the weathering, rigging end fittings and turnbuckles etc and of course the base of the display case, but the Camel is getting close to completion.

Mike

Mike, it is looking georgeous mate!

Excellent work

+1 The detail is really good!

Hi all,
It's done, so I thought you might like to see my 16th 1:32 scale build - The Sopwith F1 ‘Camel’. This model represents the Sopwith F1 ‘Camel’, Serial No.B6313 (later modified version), as flown by Major William George ‘Billy’ Barker, CO of No.139 Squadron, RAF, based at Villaverla, Italy during August 1918. This model depicts the later version of B6313, when field modifications were carried out to introduce four cooling slots in the engine cowl, linen covering removed from the centre section of the upper wing and cockpit decking sides reduced or removed.
Modified or corrected:

Cockpit:
‘Barracuda Studios’ Wicker Seat and cushion (BR32332).
‘HGW Models’ Sopwith Camel seat belts (132590).
Copper micro-tubes for fuel supply to engine, main and auxiliary fuel tanks, fuel contents indicator and fuel tank pressurization.
Brass micro-tubes for a pipe 4-way union, pipe connectors and fuel filter.
Lead wire for gun trigger cables and engine ‘blip’ switch.
Rigging wires with turnbuckles for cockpit side frame, under shield and floor bracing.
Flight control cables with turnbuckles for ailerons, rudder, elevator and tail skid.
Micro-tube for throttle control linkage.

External after market and additions:
‘Blackdog Models’ RFC Fighter Pilot 14-18 No.2 (F32014)
‘Copper State Models’ RFC Mechanic (F32-0026).
‘Proper Plane’ wood propeller - Lang type (WP004).
‘Copper State Model’ Tools and Cans set (AE32-005).
‘Aviattic’ linen effect decal - Clear Doped Linen (ATT32094).
‘Aviattic’ linen effect decal - PC12 ‘Light’ RFC/RAF (ATT32092).
‘Xtradecal’ Parallel Stripes (White - XPS2 and Black - XPS1).
Various ‘Albion Alloy’ Micro-tube (Brass or Nickel Silver).
‘Steelon’ Mono-Filament 0.12mm diameter.
‘Stroft GTM’ Silicon-PTFE tempered monofil (Blue/Grey 0.08mm diameter).
‘RB Motion’ 0.51mm Aluminium hexagonal nuts (1279-A).
‘EZ Line’ white (heavy).
‘Polak’ grass mat (Wild Meadow (4706).
‘Inperspextive’ made acrylic display case.
Brushed silver, black printed - information plaques.

As usual I've created a downloadable build log in Adobe PDF format, for those who might want to refer to it for reference or build details. It contains full step by step descriptions of the model build, its modifications/changes and is also supported with illustrations and reference photographs and information. If viewed in Adobe Reader, each build log has book marked chapters/headings for easier navigation through the log.
My model website has the gallery page, so to view any model, go to the gallery and select it. If it has a PDF build log, it will be available to download using the 'PDF' icon on that models photo's page. The gallery will scroll through the various photographs for any particular model selected for viewing.

http://igavh2.xara.hosting


Mike

Mike it looks stupendous and such a great grouping for the diorama. Just love it!

and now...for my humble modeling submission! A creation from 20 years ago when I had good eyesight and steady hands. It's nowhere near your level of expertise though and is a stock Tamiya kit un-altered.

Hi Rob,
I've got your email and I'll get back to you.
That's a nice model and I particularly like the subtle exhaust stains and the mottled, pre-shading on the fuselage.
Neat painting on the canopy framing as well.
A model you can be proud of for sure,

Mike

Thanks for the compliments Mike. Coming from you, I appreciate it.

You may claim you're not a Master, but there are plenty of people here and I'll bet more than a few acknowledged Masters who would disagree. This piece is a true work of art, worthy of any collection.

My own building is confined almost exclusively to 1/72 scale, and these days mostly "toys" for an air war game I've played with friends for more than forty years, though I did do a major conversion to make a model of the original Boeing 299, or XB-17, which is the centerpiece of the entrance to the Hill Air Force Base museum.

I agree with Sailor Steve you are a Master Sandbagger the art you make is simply amazing. I like to build model cars, but they are mere pieces of junk compared to you fine airplane models. I can never slow down enough to do a great job and I have the Artistic talent of a snail. Thanks for sharing your wondrous talents.
Thanks John

I agree with Sailor Steve you are a Master Sandbagger the art you make is simply amazing. I like to build model cars, but they are mere pieces of junk compared to you fine airplane models. I can never slow down enough to do a great job and I have the Artistic talent of a snail. Thanks for sharing your wonderful talents.
Thanks John

Hi all,
I got Rob's OK to take the Camel, plus a few other models, to the annual Scale Model Exhibition held at the Shuttleworth Collection in Bedfordshire, UK.
I had no intention of entering any competitions there, so I must admit it came as a surprise that the judges had toured all of the displays and considered mine as 'Best of Show'.
The 'John Morris Memorial Trophy' has been going only since 2013 and I'm to be 'engraved'  as they retain the trophy for display.
It's a polished Merlin piston on a wood base with winners plaques down one side.
I did receive a certificate and complimentary tickets to a Shuttleworth 'Collection Event air show during 2019.

Mike

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Hi Mike;

I for one am not surprised at the recognition you received. I do believe you underestimate your skill set. That said, underestimating oneself generally is advantageous as it pushes us to new limits of achievement.

So glad to hear you earned the award as recognition of your skills. The tickets to Shuttleworth are a nice addition. I know you didn't have the opportunity to take the award home, but did you get a snapshot of it? Would be nice to see how it looks.

Again, congratulations!

Best Regards

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Way to go Mike! That is fantastic, and a most well-deserved honour. Do you have any photos of your display at the show? I'd love to see 'em if you do. Congrats again Sir, your work is amazing.

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Holly sh#t! That is amazing! Congratulations to you and respect to your skills. I know from this thread that a lot of work went into this build so it is deserved. Congrats again!

.

Thanks Mike. Those are all truly outstanding works of art, and created by a distinguished looking gent to boot!

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Ah, finally we can put a face to the man behind the build of those fine models. Distinguished you say Lou!! Well, indeed as fine looking as the models I say!

Mike, very fitting for such beautiful models. Good on you Sir!

Very nice congrats to you Sandbagger. It does not surprise me that you should win the best in show because thats what they are very detailed works of art.
John

Congrats Mike! Well done! The detail in these models simply astounds me. My grandfather was an avid model builder but I never inherited his steady hands and eye for detail. And Robert, your 110 is light years ahead of anything I could produce! Nice work!

Capt'n;

Thanks for the compliments, it's much appreciated. My days of quality modelling are over now but I still appreciate the work of others and enjoy watching it.