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#4426299 - 06/15/18 04:05 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller ***** [Re: Sokol1]  
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Thasiet Offline
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I think having the buttons map to the Warthog properly is kinda important, but not all important. Case study, my Virpil has finally arrived and I have it plugged into an F-22 grip. By default, it turned out that the second stage of the trigger did not work because it was attached to the one unused pin on the third IC relative to a warthog. So I had to dismantle the header and re-route the wire to one of the two unused pins on my F-22. Now it works and everything is great there.

On the hat front, my POV hat has wound up mapped to the countermeasure hat, and the left and right presses are reversed. This is annnoying, and I had kinda wanted to avoid it, but I have realized that it is tolerable. As I have a TrackIR and an Oculus, I have no need for an 8 way pov hat. And at least the hat is mapped to another hat; if it were mapped to buttons, THAT would be intolerable (imagine pulling to the second stage of the trigger, and it interprets the two trigger presses as a diagonal on the pov...)

I'm wiring up a Combatstick grip next, and I'll make sure to do that accurate to the Warthog, but what I have with the F-22 is fine.

On other fronts, I've got one of those ubiquitous 12-button matrix keypads coming in the mail today. I'm going to plug that into the last pins on my X35T's arduino and map the buttons to F1-F12 so I can "ten" key the radio comms in DCS. Anybody know if there's a remapper program that supports more than 32 buttons? I've been using Universal Control Remapper, but it only sees 32, and this keypad is going to put me at 35 buttons on my throttle.

Attached Files JJS08103.jpg
Inline advert (2nd and 3rd post)

#4426320 - 06/15/18 07:19 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: sunrrrise]  
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Originally Posted by sunrrrise

I'd like to have a grip that I can connect to Warthog base and have exactly the same physical buttons mapping. I have to avoid the situation like pressing CMS Down and then Trim Left will be pressed according to Warthog base.


You suggest that grip in question is Suncom F-15 and you want use MT-02 "navigation switch" as two HAT's - "Auto Acquisition Switch" and "Castle switch"

Originally Suncom F-15 is 8 buttons + POV HAT

If you add a 2nd stage in trigger, 3 buttons in "Auto Acquisition Switch" (like F-15 stick
) became 12 buttons + POV HAT. Can be 13 if ad a Paddle (Pinky) button.

But can add a Paddle and an extra up-donw-press switch, like in Tm F-18 grip prototype and have 19 buttons +POV HAT - what is the same of Warthog grip.

What is the specific difficult in wire Suncom buttons in above linked Shift Register (3x CD4021)?

#4426322 - 06/15/18 07:43 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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sunrrrise Offline
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I can overcome the problem with mapping if I will use some sockets like in original design of TM Warthog board. Then I can replug cables if needed. However it will require additional space which leads to another problem. PCB is already rather small and I really suck at designing PCB so less space does not help at all wink

#4426332 - 06/15/18 09:42 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Sokol1 Offline
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Ask Debolestis in ED forum may he know what pin is what button, he deal with this done Suncom F-15, FCS B-8 compatible with Warthog.

Or, make you 'minimalist' PCB, solder wires but not in grip buttons, plug on computer, now make contact of each wire with ground wire and see what button highlight, take note and then solder wires in grip buttons.

#4426749 - 06/19/18 06:39 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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sunrrrise Offline
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Pinout is ready, see attached.

Attached Files
#4429024 - 07/05/18 06:07 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Hi, I´m triying to use this great firmware. I´ve made a custom wheel for OSW. I´m using arduino pro micro. The buttons works well, the axis with hall sensor works well and the rotarys works well if I use a cheap model from amazon like this:

Rotary from Amazon

I configure the timer and all the parameters for encoder and works fine, but the problem I have is when I use this rotary encoder:

CTS 288 (model number 288T232R161A2)

The rotary shows one pulse every 4 clicks. In windows joystick the number flash every 4 clicks of the rotary. I have tried all the things and I don´t know how I can make that rotary works well. Can you help me??

The diodes are in his place

Thanks in advance and sorry for my poor english

Best Regards

Attached Files
288-2255.pdf (62 downloads)
Last edited by DualinRacing; 07/05/18 06:08 PM.
#4431327 - 07/21/18 09:05 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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rabidscoobie Offline
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Hey Sokul, got a question I think you might be able to help me with.

I saw in another forum post from a few years back you commented in about CH Products replacement pots. In that post you ended up not finding any but somehow converted existing post to hall effect using a BIC pen.
Unfortunately in that post the links you gave for pics are now dead. Im really curious how you did this.
I would like my self to try this mod on my converted CH sticks I had posted a couple years back in the current post but cant really understand from your description how it was done exactly, didnt know if maybe you still had some working links with those pics.

Thanks for any help or info.

Link to specific post Im talking about,
http://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3832540/CH_josytick_spare_potentiomete

#4431337 - 07/21/18 10:34 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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#4431338 - 07/21/18 10:41 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Sokol1 Offline
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Yes, Imageshack delete the images...

Take a look in this topic, is described the "Bic HALL pot" idea.

http://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3225807/DIY_hall_sensor.html

Just don't get the HALL sensor used by OP, has low sensitivity, get:

Allegro A1324 EUA-T or
Honeywheel SS495A1.

But if you look back in this (MMjoy2) topic will see some "HALL pot" in CH joysticks.

Ideally you should install bearings in gimbal pivots, for minimize lateral play - CH gimbal has lot o play, but as the pot axis pole* is part of gimbal, no big issue for pot use.

* You need keep this axis pole, or gimbal will fall apart.

AFAIK - Back in the topic ate a CH Flightstick with bearings installed in gimbal.

#4431399 - 07/22/18 06:12 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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rabidscoobie Offline
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Ok thanks.
Yeah I saw the bic pen one, I may try it dsince Im sure I have all those parts in a parts box.

Sokul, thanks I look through the thread and see if I come across it.
Yes I was aware of the axis pole as the gimbal, its the reason I was curious about yours in that other thread.

#4431401 - 07/22/18 06:44 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: rabidscoobie]  
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Kbird Offline
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Originally Posted by rabidscoobie
Ok thanks.
Yeah I saw the bic pen one, I may try it dsince Im sure I have all those parts in a parts box.

Sokul, thanks I look through the thread and see if I come across it.
Yes I was aware of the axis pole as the gimbal, its the reason I was curious about yours in that other thread.


I don't have CH Pots ( FLCS here) but did you also considered the TLE 5010 Boards? maybe easier to setup? they are working well for me and others in this thread.....

more info about page 119 and after

Last edited by Kbird; 07/22/18 06:46 PM.

My FLCS+TQS Conversion here on SimHQ

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324940/1
#4431416 - 07/22/18 10:07 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Kbird]  
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rabidscoobie Offline
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Im not familiar with that board.
As for my 2 combat sticks(gameport versions), I modded them over a year ago with the Pro Micro boards and totally rewired, added buttons and reworked the hats and buttons on the main grip.
I modded the 2nd stick for space sims, converted the combat stick for a left hand grip(lots of works).

They work great but recently had an axis pot of the left stick go bad, it was reading really weird. Cleaned them, checked connections and even tested it totally by itself and still same results. Luckily when I contacted CH about pots last year she sent me 3 brand new ones.
So its the reason I thought about doing a Hall sensor conversion. I have no doubts I can do it, but I'd rather not hack at the gimbals that way if something didnt work out I can just drop the original pots back in.

To bad I cant get my hands on 4 dead CH pots. I have looked at one of my bad ones and I think I could build the hall sensor inside of a gutted and modded pot, at least in my head I think It will work.

#4431424 - 07/22/18 11:44 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: rabidscoobie]  
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Kbird Offline
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Originally Posted by rabidscoobie
Im not familiar with that board.
As for my 2 combat sticks(gameport versions), I modded them over a year ago with the Pro Micro boards and totally rewired, added buttons and reworked the hats and buttons on the main grip.
I modded the 2nd stick for space sims, converted the combat stick for a left hand grip(lots of works).

They work great but recently had an axis pot of the left stick go bad, it was reading really weird. Cleaned them, checked connections and even tested it totally by itself and still same results. Luckily when I contacted CH about pots last year she sent me 3 brand new ones.
So its the reason I thought about doing a Hall sensor conversion. I have no doubts I can do it, but I'd rather not hack at the gimbals that way if something didnt work out I can just drop the original pots back in.

To bad I cant get my hands on 4 dead CH pots. I have looked at one of my bad ones and I think I could build the hall sensor inside of a gutted and modded pot, at least in my head I think It will work.


I had a few missteps on my FLCS with the TLE5010 boards but in the end they work well....

http://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.p...uild-your-own-usb-controller#Post4353014


My FLCS+TQS Conversion here on SimHQ

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324940/1
#4431425 - 07/22/18 11:57 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Sokol1 Offline
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You can use Bi-Tech 6127 "HALL pot" in your CH stick:

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/tt-electronics-bi/6127V1A60L.5/987-1391-ND/2620660

Debolestis in ED forum did adaptation in CH gimbal:

https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2428066&postcount=185


#4431426 - 07/23/18 12:11 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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rabidscoobie Offline
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Yeah I saw those. Maybe last resort seeing as I would need 4 of them, get a bit expensive.

Kbird, yeah I saw your build, quiet the engineering job there.

Im gonna think on this a bit.

#4431435 - 07/23/18 01:26 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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rabidscoobie Offline
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Playing with the pen and bearing idea I can make that work, I just havent figured what I want to do about the D shaped shaft or how to make it work with the CH gimbal.

#4431517 - 07/23/18 03:31 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Sokol1 Offline
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You need use the pole axis of original potentiometer - since their are part of gimbal.

What I did:

Dismantle the pot for get the pole axis.

A friend reduce in a lathe the end (opposite to D shaft) diameter of pole axis slight for match - tight*, the Bic tube inner diameter, for about ~1 cm.

Using Teflon tape (for pumbling) the pole axes of original pot wash fixed in gimbal in a way that stay there - originally is loose.

The Bic tube is not glued over pole axis, but fit tight*.

[Linked Image]

* The Bic tube only fitted tight over pole axis allow turn then for "tune" the position of bearings and HALL sensor.

Find a picture there:

[Linked Image]

Bearings on gimbal (done by Russian simmer - translation a bit "Google).

[Linked Image]picture uploader

Used flange bearings, the ones at left /upper is not necessary, in case is for adapter a twist pole of another joystick (Saitek, I think).

Other option for place the magnets - same princible of Bic "HALL pot" (don't remember the author).

[Linked Image]

In PCB is TLE5010/11 "mag res", but Alegro A1324 or Honeyweel SS495A1 HALL sensor can be fixed in same way.








#4431531 - 07/23/18 05:01 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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rabidscoobie Offline
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Thanks man, that really helped.
This is similar to what I was thinking of doing.

As for the sensors, I'll need to look but I believe I have either the Alegro or Honeywell's.

Well I looked and the only number on them I see is 324, I believe them to be the Alegro1324. Bought them awhile back for another project but decided not to do it.

#4432356 - 07/30/18 11:40 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: rabidscoobie]  
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I finally received all components to make my TLE 5010 MMjoy2 sensors:

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


more pictures at:
BRD gimbal type

#4432987 - 08/04/18 03:56 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Kbird Offline
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Just a heads up if anyone was thinking of getting the TLE5010 Boards from AliExpress , they have let me know they are having a Sale at the moment if you spend more than $29USD you get a $3 off coupon (10% off ).

http://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4423528/182


Also if anyone else ended up with a Ejoy V3 STM based board and are having issues connecting to it , try disabling the Logitech Gaming Software (LGS) temporarily , (used by mice, keyboards and joysticks) while running the Revolution 32 Software from the Ejoy V3 Board Maker. The Rev.32 Software also seems to kick of many Virus detectors as it uses and monitors Keyboard input etc so I have had a bit of trouble stopping Avast from quarantining it , at least in versions 3.1.25 ..26 and .27 (latest).

KB

Last edited by Kbird; 08/04/18 04:08 PM.

My FLCS+TQS Conversion here on SimHQ

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324940/1
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