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#4423528 - 05/30/18 05:56 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller ***** [Re: Sokol1]  
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Kbird Offline
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I made my own SR Boards for my 1st Conversion and found the extra resistors are necessary , and IIRC the CE should be connected to GND ( I think that is called "pulled low" )

http://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.p...uild-your-own-usb-controller#Post4354517

http://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.p...uild-your-own-usb-controller#Post4354661

http://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.p...uild-your-own-usb-controller#Post4354697

Buncan also suggested a 100nF Capacitor be added to the PCB as well , his post also has a link to a useful PDF..... ( this helped stop "ghost" key presses for me )

http://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.p...uild-your-own-usb-controller#Post4355065

http://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.p...uild-your-own-usb-controller#Post4356724


My FLCS+TQS Conversion here on SimHQ

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324940/1
Inline advert (2nd and 3rd post)

#4423620 - 05/31/18 03:24 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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The resistors connected to the pins are pull up resistors and pull the pin high in idle condition. On activation the pin is pulled to ground = low. The pull up resistors are necessary to keep the button state from floating, which causes unwanted button presses.

It is good practice to put a decoupling cap (~100nf) on every IC for stable operation. However, I found with 30cm leads to the Arduino I didn't necessarily need them when also having 10k pull ups for stable CS and Data lines. In my shift regs I did end up putting a single cap for all three ICs because of space concerns.

Btw I can now offer my 24Bit 4021 shift reg boards completely soldered up as I recently acquired a cheap reflow oven. DIY kit is 6€ and soldered it is 12€ per board. I have sent out a few to people on this board, but so far nobody has posted any pictures here. Maybe I can share some of them you guys sent to me?

Last edited by rel4y; 05/31/18 03:32 AM.
#4423719 - 05/31/18 04:13 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Thasiet Offline
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Alright well guess that dream just bought the farm, thanks guys. I'm actually one of rel4y's DIY kit customers so I can go first:

[Linked Image]

With awesome freehand SMD soldering skills like that, why would I ever want to buy pre-made, I know, I know. rel4y good to know you are able to offer complete boards now since yours are tiny and so definitely the best option for making TM/Virpil compatible stick grips (two weeks later, my T50 base has FINALLY shipped...). But now I'm also working on an X35t throttle project, and since I've got more room to play around, I thought I'd check out other options. I think I'll go with some of debolestis' boards because 1) mounting holes, 2) through-hole ICs, and 3) I have realized that OSH Park is actually a local company, near to my residence in Portland Oregon.

#4423782 - 05/31/18 06:01 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Not sure why your 74HC165 Dream is over ?

from the photo above I'd say you should rinse the board with 99% Isopropyl Alcohol as I seem to see a lot of flux residue?

I would also shorten the red and brown wires as it appears the bare sections could touch each other or the orange wire and cause a short.


My FLCS+TQS Conversion here on SimHQ

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324940/1
#4423900 - 06/01/18 07:17 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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rel4y Offline
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Thasiet: You can also solder the wires flat to the vias, they dont need to go through the hole. Kbird is right in pointing out that this may easily cause a short.


A little update on another front. OSH Park initially sent me all PCBs on my latest order without the ground plane.. which really sucks as they dont work without a ground plane. So I had a chat with the support and they quickly resent the order, this time with intact ground plane. So to anybody who ordered the hardware debounced encoders and is missing the ground plane, I strongly suggest to contact OSH Park for a resend!

I also had some troubles in setting up the encoders, as I didnt connect my encoders to a common row pin but instead directly to ground. This would imo be a wasted pin because all the signals simply are pulled to ground on activation anyway. So after quite some time scratching my head I realized that I had to set an arbitrary pin as row, even though it does not even exist on the Arduino. Otherwise MMJoy for some reason doesnt recognize the encoders. Now it works beautifully and the hysteresis is only 1 ms. The shortest timers for software debouncing are 20 ms and even that may caus problems. I am pretty happy with the results!

[Linked Image] [Linked Image] [Linked Image]

I also finished up on my mini SOIC LM358 + MCP3202 amplifier (based on Debolestis amp) which is going to connect to a PS2 hall sensor thumbstick. The Thumbsticks I received were increadibly sticky, so I had to open the metal casing and degrease the whole thing. I guess these sticks have been laying around in some dirty warehouse for a while, because that grease was sticky and oxidized as crap... After soaking it in isopropanol and removing all the old grease it now works smoothly as expected. I guess I shouldnt expect any better by buying them for 1,5 € pp on ebay...

[Linked Image]

Finally I started testing the correct values for the CH and Cougar pots. On the PCBs I forgot a trace as you may be able to see by the fat solder blob above the blue trim pot. rolleyes The final MR pot PCBs will feature 0805 size SMD components and will fit completely on the inside of the pots. I am really excited for the CH pots, then I can finally start to mod the hell out of my gameport CH Pro Throttle and spike it with encoders and PS2 ministicks! yep

[Linked Image] [Linked Image] [Linked Image] [Linked Image] [Linked Image]

Last edited by rel4y; 02/04/19 06:23 PM.
#4423954 - 06/01/18 03:02 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Thasiet Offline
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Well like Soko1 said, modifying those cheap 74hc165 breakout boards to make them compatible is probably going to be more work and result in a crappier product than just building it up right the first time. Good call on cleaning off the flux; I'll throw the board in my ultrasonic cleaner with some isopropyl. I know the output leads look like garbage; that was just a real quick and dirty job to test the board. That board is destined for a Combatstick grip and I'm going to wait for my Virpil base and 3d printed tailpeiece to arrive in the mail before I wire it up to the grip. Then I'll button it up right.

Very cool news on the "pots" rel4y. I'll probably stop caring about my Fighterstick, jittery pots and all, once and forever as soon as my Virpil arrives. But that hasn't happened yet, and in all seriousness, a hall-sensored Fighterstick lathered up with Nyogel 767a (like I've done to mine) would still be an excellent piece of equipment. I think I read somewhere in here that the gameport Fighterstick button matrix can be directly wired up to an mmjoy2 board, but the USB Fighterstick cannot, is that correct?

#4423973 - 06/01/18 04:07 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Kbird Offline
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I got some of these 74HC165 Boards as part of a Kit they also sell with TLE5010 Board but have yet to test them as the STM32 Ejoy3 Board that is in the Package too ( which I didnt need, I didn't understand what it was) I can't make work.
I thought they were pretty good value since they also come with all the wiring.

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/pr...4.12010612/itm2home-1.0.0.6e4c7e80QWiob1

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/pr...4.12010612/itm2home-1.0.0.6f3c16a8Vt3If6


My FLCS+TQS Conversion here on SimHQ

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324940/1
#4424234 - 06/02/18 09:48 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Stache Offline
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Hi,

I have just started learning how to use MMJoy2.
I have an Arduino Leonardo and have been able to get mmjoy to see a couple of buttons and axis.
Just working with individual buttons for now, will look at button matrix next.

My question:
I would like to active an LED when a button is activated.
Is this possible, if so can a simple diagram be supplied.

I have done some searching for an answer, in this forum and elsewhere, have come up empty so far.

Thank you.

p.s. I am not taking about having the Leonardo or mmjoy activate the LED directly.
I want to hard wire the led to the switch using the 5v / ground off the Leonardo.
My concern is passing unwanted voltage/current back to the signal pins on the arduino that are are attached to the switch contacts.

Last edited by Stache; 06/02/18 10:51 PM.

Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. A. Einstein

(System Specs:)

I7-6700k OC 4.4GHZ, 16GB DDR4 3200Mhz; Gigabyte Gaming 7 MB, G1 OC'ed GTX980ti; Three-Acer XB271HU WQHD Gsync 144Mhz; Samsung 950-512GB NVMe SSD; WD 2TB-7200rpm; Cooler Master HAF XB EVO, Nepton 240M cooler, V1000 PS; Windows 10 PRO; VKB GunfighterPro Stick; Thrustmaster TPR Pedals; Saitek Throttle; Dual TM MFD panels; TrackIR 5; Windows 10 v1909
#4424270 - 06/03/18 12:59 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Sokol1 Offline
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In this case use double pole switch (2 switches using the same body/lever), generally has 4 (DPST) or 6 (DPDT) pins, then use one side for toggle the button in Mmjoy2 and the other side for power ON/OFF the LED.

Example: https://www.electronikhub.com/products/dpdt-toggle-switch-on-off-on



#4424272 - 06/03/18 01:20 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Stache Offline
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Ah, thank you. Easy solution.


Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. A. Einstein

(System Specs:)

I7-6700k OC 4.4GHZ, 16GB DDR4 3200Mhz; Gigabyte Gaming 7 MB, G1 OC'ed GTX980ti; Three-Acer XB271HU WQHD Gsync 144Mhz; Samsung 950-512GB NVMe SSD; WD 2TB-7200rpm; Cooler Master HAF XB EVO, Nepton 240M cooler, V1000 PS; Windows 10 PRO; VKB GunfighterPro Stick; Thrustmaster TPR Pedals; Saitek Throttle; Dual TM MFD panels; TrackIR 5; Windows 10 v1909
#4424279 - 06/03/18 04:12 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Kbird Offline
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Originally Posted by Sokol1
In this case use double pole switch (2 switches using the same bod/lever), generally has 4 (DPST) or 6 (DPDT) pins, then use one side for toggle the button in Mmjoy2 and the other side for power ON/OFF the LED.

Example: https://www.electronikhub.com/products/dpdt-toggle-switch-on-off-on




Another example of this is the old Download Button on the FLCS and F22 Joysticks , I added a LED to mine , to remind me it was on since it's not momentary. There are also Momentary switches with LEDS built in already.

It should be easy enough to add an LED to the a normal switch , do you have a Breadboard and a few LEDs to play around with ? usually you need a resistor too....

short Primer tutorials

https://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/labs/labs-electronics/breadboard/

https://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/labs/labs-electronics/switches/

Last edited by Kbird; 06/03/18 04:53 AM.

My FLCS+TQS Conversion here on SimHQ

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324940/1
#4425118 - 06/08/18 03:38 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Thasiet Offline
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Mmmkay well I've been a busy beaver. My Virpil base has finally made it to CLEARED! US Customs and I am ready. My F22 USB conversion is dead, long live my new F22 stick grip. I have the adapter now for the Combatstick grip, as can clearly be seen, but I haven't wired it up to the shift register yet. Been working on my X35 instead, which is now at "minimum viable product" status and is pictured in situ next to my TWCS, which is my primary throttle. The X35 replaces an X52 I've been using as a prop control for warbirds. The rotaries are great for radiator controls in IL-2 and the X52 worked well enough, but the LCD and LEDs are silly, and I wanted something nicer, and now I have it.

So regarding the internals, I actually had a second shift register kit I bought from rel4y, but that one I boffed even worse than the one I uploaded the picture of a few posts back. I accidentally ripped out a ground pin from one of the register ICs, and thought it was a goner. But at rel4y's recommendation, I hacked into the IC with an x-acto knife, located the pin's nubbin and soldered it back on to the PCB with a very short wire. It works, though still not at 100% capacity; I have 23 inputs. One input, on a different IC from the one I damaged, oddly just would not work at all. I even tried connecting a button directly to the associated pin on the IC, but it was a no-go. So, I counted my blessings and thoroughly entombed the whole board in hot glue before anything else can go wrong with it.

Things I've done to the stock X-35:
- Put a crapton of JB Weld fillets inside and outside the vertical shaft for the throttle grip. This significantly improves the torsional rigidity, which was wanting in the stock throttle
- Shaved down the grip on the near side to give more room to reach for controls on the base. I filled in the hole with polydoh, and then because the finishability of polydoh is crap, I painted over it with Testor's enamel paint. It doesn't look completely terrible.
- Three APEM (CH Products parent company) industrial quality two way rockers which are a pretty good deal on fleabay right now. One is mounted in the grip in the cavity left after removing the rudder, the other two are in the base, which I mainly intend to use for individual throttle control / startup / shutdown on twin engined jets in DCS. Especially with these two rockers, I think this setup will be totally adequate for twin engined flight. Certainly, I think it's better suited for managing a military twin than a single split-throttle is for managing a warbird in the "left throttle for prop, right throttle for throttle" tradition.
- Two additional rotaries in the base. I needed at least one more to replace the slider I've lost on the X52 and used for mixture, and now I'm +1 on that.
- One latching switch (an FLCS download switch actually) in the back corner of the base. The impetus is to have something I can assign to the aileron limiter switch on the DCS F-5 module, that I can just turn on and leave on. I'm sure I'll find other uses for it.

I've still got enough pins on the arduino to do a 5x3 button matrix, so I might add more later, but this is good enough for now. Just wanted to thank mega mozg, rel4y, and everyone else whose posted experiences helped me get these projects done.

Attached Files JJS08089.jpgJJS08091.jpgJJS08102.jpgJJS08092.jpgJJS08099.jpgJJS08100.jpg
#4425485 - 06/10/18 11:19 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Thasiet]  
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rel4y Offline
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Originally Posted by Thasiet
So regarding the internals, I actually had a second shift register kit I bought from rel4y, but that one I boffed even worse than the one I uploaded the picture of a few posts back. I accidentally ripped out a ground pin from one of the register ICs, and thought it was a goner. But at rel4y's recommendation, I hacked into the IC with an x-acto knife, located the pin's nubbin and soldered it back on to the PCB with a very short wire. It works, though still not at 100% capacity; I have 23 inputs. One input, on a different IC from the one I damaged, oddly just would not work at all. I even tried connecting a button directly to the associated pin on the IC, but it was a no-go. So, I counted my blessings and thoroughly entombed the whole board in hot glue before anything else can go wrong with it.


Good job on that X35 and also good job on fixing that second shift register! Are you going to convert your combatstick anyway and does the smaller adapter finally fit well? That one dead pin sounds like a cold solder joint on the resistor network by the way, the more improbable reason could be that you grilled the thin wire that internally connects this pin to the microchip. If you still have access you could try reheating the solder joint of the resistor network pin that connects to the affected 4021 pin. That should fix it. If the pull up is not connected the IC interprets an open line as baseline and when the button is pushed and pulls the signal to ground, then there is no change in potential to the IC that it could interpret.

Keep it up mate!. smile

#4425600 - 06/11/18 04:06 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Does anybody have rubber dust cover from F22 or FLCS? I lost one I had before. Is there replacement for it? I don't know how to name it, how is it called in english? Maybe something in car parts?

#4425691 - 06/11/18 10:24 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Sokol1 Offline
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Look for "EPDM rubber boot" in Aliexpress.

Or "shift rubber boot".

#4426070 - 06/14/18 04:35 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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sunrrrise Offline
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Hi,
does anyone have pin-to-button mapping for Warthog?

Something like:
CD4021#1 :: PIN#6 :: Second Stage Trigger

for all three shift registers?

#4426123 - 06/14/18 12:33 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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rel4y Offline
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Here you go. I am pretty sure Thasiet got the layout right. I marked the PIN# on the first IC, but they are the same for all three.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Last edited by rel4y; 06/14/18 06:07 PM.
#4426182 - 06/14/18 06:32 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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sunrrrise Offline
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Hello,
thank you! Unfortunatelly this pic has too little details frown

I am going to solder almost all buttons directly to IC so there will be no possibility for me to correct something by simply repluging button. That is why I need to know specific PIN for specific button/function. For example I will use two MT-02 for trim and hmm... castle switch (yeah, I am going to make Suncom Talon alive again). I am going to place them directly on PCB.

Last edited by sunrrrise; 06/14/18 06:32 PM.
#4426257 - 06/15/18 12:27 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: sunrrrise]  
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Originally Posted by sunrrrise

Unfortunatelly this pic has too little details frown


But the picture have all one need for wire Warthog grip - pins for wire each button group (HAT), that have one common Ground wire - Ground is shared in PCB with all buttons.

What can confuse is if one don't know what is the names used by Tm, e.g. CMS, DMS, Pinky...

But this names don't matter, because is translated in buttons numbered from 1 to 24 plus POV HAT (4 buttons).

For whatever reason Tm don't use the buttons number 6, 13, 14, 15, 16, so 24 - 5 = 19 buttons + POV HAT (4).*

And finally, for games don't matter if trigger is button #1 or #8 (like Warthog) or #23 - only matter for Tm TARGET.

The only buttons that need use original pins location is POV HAT, because in POV HAT two buttons near pressed simultaneous create a virtual diagonal button in firmware.

In MT-02 you have 6 pins, 5 for buttons (4 way + push and one common, what can use e.g. CMS and CMS down in the picture - just use 1 ground wire, Tm use 2 for convenience.

* Curiosity: Tm F-18'ish grip (WiP) will have the same number of buttons than Warthog, due push in buttons in two HAT's and a extra 'slider' with up, down and push.


#4426258 - 06/15/18 12:34 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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sunrrrise Offline
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No
Originally Posted by Sokol1
Originally Posted by sunrrrise

Unfortunatelly this pic has too little details frown
And finally, for games don't matter if trigger is button #1 or #8 (like Warthog) or #23 - only matter for Tm TARGET.


Yes, exactly. I'd like to have a grip that I can connect to Warthog base and have exactly the same physical buttons mapping. I have to avoid the situation like pressing CMS Down and then Trim Left will be pressed according to Warthog base.

I use MMJoy for my throttle and joystick, but each of my grip is electronically 100% compatible with TM Warthog base (even in case of B-5 which has only two buttons).

Last edited by sunrrrise; 06/15/18 12:37 PM.
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