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#4420965 - 05/16/18 01:02 AM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kb1rd1]  
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Slarti Offline
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Hey Sokol,
Thanks for that. It's a great idea...I'll be picking up a pro micro and seeing what I can do...

And now...back into the belly of the beast...
I started to deconstruct the FLCS first...Yes...sad poor FLCS....being re-purposed....actually, this is the one with the bad centering, (my first FLCS # 1 conversion) so I took my best centering FLCS stick (FLCS #2), did the FLCS upgrade, pulled the RobotDyn Micro out of FLCS #1 and put it into FLCS #2. Works like a charm.

So, back to the hack....I pulled most of the hats/switches out of the FLCS to figure out how the shift register was hooked up. The top 4 connectors cover the 4 hats. The Left bottom connect covered 2 switches and the Right bottom connector covered the remaining 4 (two trigger switches, right side button and the pinky button ) If anyone is interested I can actually call out which switch is where. Yellow is always common/grnd. The other 4 wires in each of the plugs are for each of the buttons. That's the first attached shot.

Next I opened up my 2nd TQS (the one that was being used in the helicopter cockpit) and started to take that apart. This is the second picture. I figured that I needed to unsolder everything in the TQS so I could move things around and play with how I wanted it to look and where I wanted things to be.

So I played around a little bit and ended up here...in Picture 3. Hopefully, this is what it will look like when finished. I think I'm going to have 3 4 way switches. I'll take two from the FLCS (The main top Hat switch and teh side H switch) and move them into the TQS. The H switch will go where the mouse was and the Hat Switch will go where the Range knob was. I know I'll be losing the range/button pots, but I don't have a problem with that for now. If I was flying Jet's I probably woulnd't be doing this, but for now, I'm not, and I'm feeling adventurous!

Pic 4 is my first "problem" to solve. I need the hole on the right (Range hole) to be as big as the hole on the Left (TQS Original 4 way switch) . Any ideas/suggesions on how to expand the hole and not ruin the TQS?

So I'm still thinking that the Shift Register give me 24 buttons and I might as well use them all. Now here is where I may need some help/suggestions.... With the current setup, I'll have 3 4 way switches (12 total) and the speedbrake and dogfight switches for a total of 16, so a net gain of 6, but that leaves me with 8 more options. I'm thinking about maybe drilling into the TQS where my fingers will lay and maybe adding 2 or 3 additional buttons down there. I have some of the buttons from teh FLCS that I can use that are very small so that might work.

I'm also thinking that maybe I can put some type of row of tactile switches down there, something self contained and low profile....just wondering out loud here...any ideas? I'm also still debating about possibly using the mini joystick as that might be useful and if the mmjoy SW will let me register the l/r/u/d as button presses then maybe I go that route and get a two for one deal....

I was also thinking about getting a 5 way or 9 way hat, but I'm wondering if I'll keep accidentally pressing the button when i'm in the middle of a dog fight....any of you guys actually use the hat switches with a center button?

Wiring suggestions....so since I'm using the shift register, the primary ribbon cable in the TQS has been removed. I'm looking for suggestions on where I can get the wire I'll need to run through the TQS handle and down to the box. I'll need 3 bundles of 5 wires for the hat and then more wire for the remaining buttons. I'm hoping that I'm thinking about this correctly, but for the buttons, i would just treat them like the 4 way switches, i.e. run a common wire between 4 of them and end up with 4 button leads and a common to make it a 5 pack of wires into the pins on the SR.

Finally, I'm also thinking of possibly adding some switches to the base like KB did....I figure I should use all the available "resources" at my disposal, and if the SR give me 24 buttons, the I should use 24 buttons...

I gotta say thanks again to all of you that have helped (KB and SOKOL) (even the folks that were here earlier in the thread). I'm having a blast with my OLD Thrustmaster equipment that has been given new life and that would not have been possible without you guys!

Attached Files IMG_20180512_180932103 (Small).jpgIMG_20180515_162334844 (Small).jpgIMG_20180515_172220889 (Small).jpgIMG_20180515_171747025 (Small).jpg
Inline advert (2nd and 3rd post)

#4420981 - 05/16/18 03:28 AM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Slarti]  
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Quote
I'm also thinking that maybe I can put some type of row of tactile switches down there, something self contained and low profile....just wondering out loud here...any ideas?


https://www.focusattack.com/seimitsu-ps-15-low-profile-pushbutton-black/

#4421133 - 05/17/18 12:55 AM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Sokol1]  
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Thanks Sokol,
I'm now thinking of maybe going a slightly different way....I'm thinking of keeping the range know and maybe putting this little bad boy down by where my middle finger would go. Will this mini joystick work?
Mini Joystick PSP 1000

As for wiring, I'm going to go with 40 strand ribbon cable. The same 10 colors repeat, so at 5 wires per 4 switches or per hat switch, I should be good to go!

#4421153 - 05/17/18 04:30 AM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kb1rd1]  
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This mini-stick will work, require 2 axes input.

https://raspberry.com.ua/p/psp-2-axis-analog-thumb-joystick/

#4423530 - 05/30/18 06:03 PM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Slarti]  
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Originally Posted by Slarti
Thanks Sokol,
I'm now thinking of maybe going a slightly different way....I'm thinking of keeping the range know and maybe putting this little bad boy down by where my middle finger would go. Will this mini joystick work?
Mini Joystick PSP 1000

As for wiring, I'm going to go with 40 strand ribbon cable. The same 10 colors repeat, so at 5 wires per 4 switches or per hat switch, I should be good to go!


How's it going Slarti ?

I used old gameport cable wires for alot of mine , since they have 15 wires....

There is another post on the SR Boards on the Main thread , I made my own 16 button ones but here is the answer I post there too :

http://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.p...uild-your-own-usb-controller#Post4423528

http://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.p...uild-your-own-usb-controller#Post4423404


My FLCS+TQS Conversion here on SimHQ

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324940/1
#4424430 - 06/04/18 12:30 AM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kb1rd1]  
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Slarti Offline
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Hey KB....
Been busy...I'm still slowly putting the TQS back together. I have a few "stick points" that are keeping me from progressing. I've got two of the hat switches rewired. I'm now still debating the following:
1. Whether or not to leave the Range/Antenna setup the same and add just the thumbstick onto the bottom of the handle or move the Range Pot to the Antenna position (which will require a fair around of work on the inside) and put a third 4 way switch into the Range position (which would require drilling out a bigger hole for the 4 way switch). Part of why I'm stuck here is if I botch something, I only have my other currently working TQS. and the TQSs are hard to come by anymore even on e-bay. I saw one and waited too long, someone snagged it for $50.00....
2. I'm wondering if it might be better to replace the two three way switches with two Mom/On/Mom switches...

And, I'm just spending WAY too much time playing Elite Dangerous with my "new" equipment... http://SimHQ.com/forum/images/icons/default/laugh.gif

I'm actually looking at possibly building out a "cockpit"...hahaha, it will be epic!!!!! 3 monitors....lots of fun!

KB, I thought about using the wiring from one of the converted FLCSs, I may do that later if I don't like how the ribbon cable works out.

And Sokol,
that's what I got. I have two of them.

I still need to work on the rudder pedals too, if I put them In I free up two more buttons on the TQS...(actually L and R on the 4 way switch....

#4553073 - 01/21/21 04:20 PM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kb1rd1]  
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Repvez Offline
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Somebody know that this device can be good for replace the microstick in the TQS ?
minijoy
4 way with puch button

I have a PS3 minijoy with button, but it doesn't fit into the TQS handle.
Or has somebody a goos solution for this?

#4553675 - 01/26/21 02:02 PM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Repvez]  
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I made some quick scematick about the connection .

[img]https://ibb.co/p2kjmNV[/img]
[img]https://ibb.co/HDc5bTp[/img]
[img]https://ibb.co/3NwzgQX[/img]

[img]https://ibb.co/kJq0Bp1[/img]
Can somebody give me some advise to how can I connect to the pro micro panel? Which pins can I connect together and wich need to be separeted and connected directly on the arduino pro micro.
I would like to use only one pro micro to use the all dvice, but the rudder is not so important right now.
But the FLCS and the TQS would be nice if I can use.
Inside the FLCS handle there is a shift register the connection is the same on the FLCS sckematick.
And I also want to use TLE5010 for the X ,Y,Z axis and the rudder main axis, the rest of the potmeter are normal one.

#4557146 - 02/22/21 01:42 AM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kb1rd1]  
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I also started to convert my old F22Pro & TQS to USB, but in a totally different way biggrin

I also have an old used Cougar now, I bought only for using it's throttle as a stand alone device. So I don't need the electronics of the Cougar anymore, cause I will use Thrustmaster TWCS electronics to make the Cougar throttle a stand alone device, which then is still fully compatible with TARGET and this way also better useable with the rest of my TM devices like the Warthog system in my VR-pit.

I will integrate those dismantled Cougar electronics in my old F22Pro and the TQS, removing the erazer hat cursor and replacing it with an ordinary thumbstick. This will be my HOTAS for my second gaming site, I play simulations from the 90's until now. It has different PC's for retro gaming and modern gaming and I wanted a HOTAS, I could use from W9X until W10.

The only HOTAS which are able to fully support W9X, XP, W7 and W10 at the same time and also still remain fully functional, are the TM Cougar or the CH Products HOTAS (CH Combat/Fighterstick etc., Pro Throttle, Pro Pedals), that's the reason I use this method of converting the old F22Pro and the TQS to USB.

For the pedals I will use my TM TFRP rudder pedals and make them pin compatible with the Cougars rudder connector, removing the original wires and PCB. This PCB is also needed for another project I'm also using an TWCS and an addional T16000M stick to make helicopter controls which are programable with TARGET. Here I will connect the TFRP PCB to the TWCS board to have three additional axis.

Last edited by Viper1970; 02/22/21 01:54 AM.

CockpitPC1: Ryzen9 5950X|64GB DDR4|512GB M2 SSD|2TB M2 SSD|Geforce RTX3090|Reverb G2|Win11Pro
CockpitPC2: PhenomII X6 1100T|32GB DDR2|2x 2TB HDD|2x Geforce GTX660 SLI|Win7Pro64
ComUnitPC1: Ryzen9 3900XT|32GB DDR4|2x 2TB HDD|Geforce RTX2070|Win11 Pro
ComUnitPC2: PhenomII X6 1100T|16GB DDR2|2x 2TB HDD|Geforce GTX660|Win7Pro64
ComUnitPC3: AthlonII X2 250|2GB DDR2|2TB HDD|Geforce 5950Ultra|2x VoodooII SLI|WinXPPro32&WinME
ComUnitPC4: K6-2+|768MB SDR|640GB HDD|Geforce 256DDR|VoodooI|Win98SE
#4557209 - 02/22/21 03:28 PM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kb1rd1]  
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"... still fully compatible with TARGET."


Using MJJoy-2 and I think FreeJoy firmwares for Arduino, STM32F103 you can deceive TARGET setting Tm VID/PID numbers, like is done for VirPil controllers.


https://www.reddit.com/r/HOTAS/comments/awfvfe/how_to_use_vpc_devices_with_target/

#4557645 - 02/25/21 10:50 AM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kb1rd1]  
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Ah, that's good to know. I have already made a MMJoy-2 project a while ago but didn't notice that this is possible. I also searched the web if there is any way to change (fake) the VID/PID of a device but only came across the documentation for the VirPil Base.

Do you know if it's possible to use the old FLCS grip pcb's also for the Warthog and the Cougar base, if you solder a 5 pol PS/2-connector to it? I heard it should be possible, cause not much has changed at the grip pcb. It still uses the 4021 chips. I have nearly about 20 of them lying arround here from old cannibalized FLCS/F22Pro and want to use them for further DIY addon grips in the future.

What I really need to know is are the 5 pins from the PCB to the base identical on the FLCS and the Warthog/Cougar PCB's? I mean the 5 pins or solder points from the left to the right on the grip PCB (green VCC, yellow SPI MISO, orange SPI SCK, red SPI CS, brown VCC) or has anything changed between the old PCB's from the FLCS to the newer ones from the Warthog and the Cougar?

The color code of the wires seems to be identical to the new boards and same goes for the order from left to right, but there is no information on the FLCS-Boards what pin is what. They are only signed as J35-J31 from green to brown. I don't want to fry the Warthog, cause there is something changed in the pinout of those 5 pins.

I know you can get new grip pcb boards from other sources, but why buying new ones if you still have lying a lot of them unused arround.

Last edited by Viper1970; 02/25/21 10:52 AM.

CockpitPC1: Ryzen9 5950X|64GB DDR4|512GB M2 SSD|2TB M2 SSD|Geforce RTX3090|Reverb G2|Win11Pro
CockpitPC2: PhenomII X6 1100T|32GB DDR2|2x 2TB HDD|2x Geforce GTX660 SLI|Win7Pro64
ComUnitPC1: Ryzen9 3900XT|32GB DDR4|2x 2TB HDD|Geforce RTX2070|Win11 Pro
ComUnitPC2: PhenomII X6 1100T|16GB DDR2|2x 2TB HDD|Geforce GTX660|Win7Pro64
ComUnitPC3: AthlonII X2 250|2GB DDR2|2TB HDD|Geforce 5950Ultra|2x VoodooII SLI|WinXPPro32&WinME
ComUnitPC4: K6-2+|768MB SDR|640GB HDD|Geforce 256DDR|VoodooI|Win98SE
#4557679 - 02/25/21 02:14 PM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kb1rd1]  
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Yes the PCB use the same CD4021 Shift Register, but I see in an Youtube video (are not able to find again) where the guy fit an FLCS in Warthog base, he say some wiring don't match 1:1, so need change some wires positions, I ask for details but he don't return.

Perhaps is the order of serial cable, the five wire between the grip PCB and the base controller.

Try follow this cable for CD4021 pins, to identify their functions.

#4557722 - 02/25/21 05:32 PM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kb1rd1]  
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I have also seen this Video on Youtube and can't also find it anymore hahaha

As far as I remeber all things were working, but some hat directions were wrong. Not a great problem at all, if this is the only thing which is wrong.

But those five cables to the base must be correct. I will take a look if I can follow the conducting paths at the circuit to find out if the pinout is the same. Would be nice to use those old boards again if its possible.

Last edited by Viper1970; 02/25/21 05:33 PM.

CockpitPC1: Ryzen9 5950X|64GB DDR4|512GB M2 SSD|2TB M2 SSD|Geforce RTX3090|Reverb G2|Win11Pro
CockpitPC2: PhenomII X6 1100T|32GB DDR2|2x 2TB HDD|2x Geforce GTX660 SLI|Win7Pro64
ComUnitPC1: Ryzen9 3900XT|32GB DDR4|2x 2TB HDD|Geforce RTX2070|Win11 Pro
ComUnitPC2: PhenomII X6 1100T|16GB DDR2|2x 2TB HDD|Geforce GTX660|Win7Pro64
ComUnitPC3: AthlonII X2 250|2GB DDR2|2TB HDD|Geforce 5950Ultra|2x VoodooII SLI|WinXPPro32&WinME
ComUnitPC4: K6-2+|768MB SDR|640GB HDD|Geforce 256DDR|VoodooI|Win98SE
#4557747 - 02/25/21 07:48 PM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kb1rd1]  
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If is the HAT's is easy to solve, just re-arrange buttons connection wires.

#4558942 - 03/07/21 05:10 PM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Sokol1]  
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one question,
The MMJOY2 can hadle the mcp320X (2,4,8) chip to extend the number of potentiometer? at least 10 each? the best if it can 6 TLE5011 and 4 normal analog ones.
As far as I know the MCP3208 can connect 8 potentiometer to the arduino only one CS pin and the other common pins.So in theoreticly can I connect 64 pot in the same time ?
Is This chip acting like the 4021b in the shift register?

With this setup Can I make a device with one arduino like this?

22 buttons and 2 TLE5011 in the FLCS (3 4021 chip shift register in the handle)+ MCP3202 (should be only 7wires (
VCC - common
GND- common
MISO- common
SCK- common
GEN,- common
CS 1, one for the shift register
CS 2 one for the MCP3202


1 TLE5011 for the Z axis and 4 analog pot and 10 buttons in the TQS handle (2 4021 chip shift register in the handle)+ MCP3204 (should be only 7 wires
VCC - common
GND- common
MISO- common
SCK- common
GEN,- common
CS 3, one for the shift register
CS 4 one for the MCP3204

And 3 more TLE5011 in the RCS with MCP3204 (should be only 6 wires
VCC - common
GND- common
MISO- common
SCK- common
GEN,- common
CS 5 one for the MCP3204

So if it would work then we can save 3 analog pins on the arduino board for another case. Or If we can not use this way for the TLE5011 at least the 4 analog potmeter can collect together on 1 pin.
Or any other board like the STM32F103C8 with the freejoy softver

#4559056 - 03/08/21 03:07 PM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kb1rd1]  
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Thing is that practical limit - defined by Windows DirectX DImput, is 8 axis per USB controller.

Using MCP320x you make the communication between potentiometer and controller in digital mode instead analog, good case use long wires. You can't chain MCP320x like CD4021.

TLE501x communication is in digital mode, so is not need an MCP320x in between.

Integrate RCS in same FLCS+TQS controller is just complication unnecessary, leave as standalone device.

#4559077 - 03/08/21 04:41 PM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kb1rd1]  
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Yes I know that is a digital analog converter but technically is it working or not.
I mean if I leave alone the RCS there is still 7 potentiometer in the FLCS+TQS.

But if I can use MCPchip than I can reduce the wires number.
Can I mix them in the MCP chip? the 4 analog potmeter in the TQS handle. can I use the same MPC chip with the Z-axis TLE5011?

The problem is , doesn't it matter how many potentiometer can connect on the arduino if the windows can handle only 8 axis?
because If i can save some pins for another potmeter or shift register then maybe I can add more controller inputs /outputs there.
I just want to make it only once and after that use it simplest as I can. If I use only one arduino for everything then I have to set up only once and only one USB connection.

#4569153 - 05/20/21 03:09 AM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kb1rd1]  
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So, what would you say if I told you that the interpretation of the internal wiring of the TQS previously presented here is not the simplest? Or the best?

Because after someone on reddit took his apart, I took one of mine apart and traced the wires, and I agree with his conclusion and have now tested and converted a TQS to USB with an Arduino Pro Micro. And it DID NOT require opening up the handle and cutting any wires or moving any wires. And all the pots and buttons work perfectly.

I like using these Arduino Pro Micro Breakout Boards because they expose lots of handy pins, but I assure you these are electronically the same as a normal Pro Micro. A neat trick here is that all the buttons are in a 1x10 matrix, but with this wiring scheme, you can set a ROW to an unused pin - E6 in my case, and it works fine. I have had 4 buttons pressed at the same time and they work just fine.

The eraser-head mouse remains unconnected because it is incompatible. I will probably put an analog mini stick there. If I want to add more buttons to the base, I'll probably unplug the ministick button's wire and then use that slot in MMJoy2 as the base for a second button matrix, which is a trick I did converting the WCS Mk II throttle.

I made a wiring harness, but I could just as easily crimped connectors on the original ribbon cable. The wire colors in my chart refer to the ORIGINAL ribbon cable coming from the handle, NOT my wiring harness.

After you review the details, I would appreciate hearing anyone else's thoughts.

Here's the details

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Last edited by Llama; 05/20/21 06:10 AM.
#4570377 - 05/29/21 10:14 AM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Llama]  
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Nice, Can you explain how can we connect the TLE5010/11 on it or the shift regiszter?

Last edited by Repvez; 05/29/21 10:14 AM.
#4570404 - 05/29/21 06:03 PM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kb1rd1]  
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TLE5010/11 is not connected in Shift Register, but use his own serial connection, the pin SPI-SCK (B1 in Arduino PRO Micro) will be shared between both Shift Register and TLE501x serial connection.

For connect TLE501x this scheme (poste in MMjoy2 topic) was successfully use be various people.

http://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.p.../filename/TLE_5010_arduino_pro_micro.jpg

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