it looks like problem with shift register board. Are you sure that you use board with IC 4021? Try to check the wiring between shift register board and Pro Micro board. If is all OK I think it is only MMJoy2 problem and we can solve it.
Look at your picture:
If joystick in the upper left-hand corner is RED it`s a problem. So again plug out joystick and plug in to USB port again, then click to your device in Device list, joystick must be BLUE. Now you can click Load sets from device and you can see your settings, then you can edit your setting, click Save sets to device, after uploading settings MMJoy2 restart your device and again you have to see BLUE joystick before you click Load sets from device and verify your settings.
Good luck
@StrangeD0S
I can see that Sokol1 gave you all info. Is it OK now?
Last edited by erichos; 04/04/1806:45 PM.
Inline advert (2nd and 3rd post)
#4414767 - 04/04/1810:49 PMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: erichos]
Thanks for the replies. My gameport Combatstick grip looks very different inside. The pcb is very simple and has no diodes on it (see pics). The stick is from 1998 and must have an early version maybe? I will check if the matrix is the same as yours when I have the time but it looks like I will have to add all the diodes myself.
#4414790 - 04/05/1812:54 AMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Kb1rd1]
Joined: Nov 2016 Posts: 44AIRWOLFMUTLEY
Junior Member
she replied last night and told me Her Technican took 45 days off for the Holidays but She now has 100pcs in Stock.
I have also asked about the 74HC165 Boards and the 3rd PCB in the Photos now , so hoope to have some more info in a day or two if you plan on ordering again too.
6% off at the moment till Friday....
KB.
Hi KB,
Thanks for the info.
I buy the components separately and will try to do by myself.
But is good to know that she plan to keep selling, just in case of.
#4414798 - 04/05/1801:37 AMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: StrangeD0S]
@Sokol1 and erichos: Thanks for the replies. My gameport Combatstick grip looks very different inside. The pcb is very simple and has no diodes on it (see pics). The stick is from 1998 and must have an early version maybe? I will check if the matrix is the same as yours when I have the time but it looks like I will have to add all the diodes myself.
Curious, a single side PCB?
OK, MMJoy2 require diodes (in matrix) or Shift Register, in your case is more easy add diodes. You can place then wheres wires enter in PCB - is not needed in all.
First identify what wires are shared with more than one switch pin. For example the grey wire (after black) is is shared with 6 buttons.
#4414800 - 04/05/1801:43 AMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: erichos]
it looks like problem with shift register board. Are you sure that you use board with IC 4021? Try to check the wiring between shift register board and Pro Micro board. If is all OK I think it is only MMJoy2 problem and we can solve it.
Look at your picture:
If joystick in the upper left-hand corner is RED it`s a problem. So again plug out joystick and plug in to USB port again, then click to your device in Device list, joystick must be BLUE. Now you can click Load sets from device and you can see your settings, then you can edit your setting, click Save sets to device, after uploading settings MMJoy2 restart your device and again you have to see BLUE joystick before you click Load sets from device and verify your settings.
Good luck
@StrangeD0S
I can see that Sokol1 gave you all info. Is it OK now?
Hey Erichos, I got it working, KB and Sokol talked me through some things. It was either 1. a bad solder on my ground connection or not quite understanding the order that I had to do things in. It's all completed, and working on my desktop now! Thx for the reply. I'm re-reading KBs FLCS/TQS conversion thread and have seen you mentioned multiple times in helping out KB with areas he was stuck in. thanks for all the help. I'll be attempting the TQS soon and wanted to read through that thread. I'm also slowly reading through this thread as well...all great stuff.
she replied last night and told me Her Technican took 45 days off for the Holidays but She now has 100pcs in Stock.
I have also asked about the 74HC165 Boards and the 3rd PCB in the Photos now , so hoope to have some more info in a day or two if you plan on ordering again too.
6% off at the moment till Friday....
KB.
Hi KB,
Thanks for the info.
I buy the components separately and will try to do by myself.
But is good to know that she plan to keep selling, just in case of.
No Problem ....
I have asked about Her doing a package Deal on the 3 components , She needs to Check with the Technician...
Do you have all 3 modules ? are you making special price if someone buys 3 module package?
Thanks for the replies. My gameport Combatstick grip looks very different inside. The pcb is very simple and has no diodes on it (see pics). The stick is from 1998 and must have an early version maybe? I will check if the matrix is the same as yours when I have the time but it looks like I will have to add all the diodes myself.
Really curious, I have my F-16 Fighterstick made in 1997 and it is totally different. And main board of joystick is totally without parts?
Last edited by erichos; 04/05/1807:34 PM.
#4414946 - 04/06/1802:48 AMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
You need a programmer cable, back in time we used make one with diodes and a DB-25 connector and send the firmware through Printer Port - no longer available in modern motherboards/laptops.
Can use original Mindaugas MJoy16 firmware or first versions of MMjoy (not MMjoy2) - not sure if still available for download.
Thank you Sokol1!! Sorry for late responce!
Might I ask one more thing?... Do you know what value and type of capacitor does the Thrustmaster FLCS shift register board uses? ... I see 3 resistor network 10K ohm 9 pins + 1 common, 3 HCF4021 chips and my C2 is missing. Thank you!!!
My gameport Combatstick grip looks very different inside. The pcb is very simple and has no diodes on it (see pics). The stick is from 1998 and must have an early version maybe? I will check if the matrix is the same as yours when I have the time but it looks like I will have to add all the diodes myself.
Mine is a 1997 combatstick jane's edition. I didn't put any diodes on it. It's working pretty well.
#4415222 - 04/08/1802:38 AMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Kb1rd1]
[quote=AIRWOLFMUTLEY][quote] she replied last night and told me Her Technican took 45 days off for the Holidays but She now has 100pcs in Stock.
I have also asked about the 74HC165 Boards and the 3rd PCB in the Photos now , so hope to have some more info in a day or two if you plan on ordering again too.
6% off at the moment till Friday.... ----------------------------------------------------------------------- I have asked about Her doing a package Deal on the 3 components , She needs to Check with the Technician...
Do you have all 3 modules ? are you making special price if someone buys 3 module package?
This should be enough to modify 1 Joystick, 1 throttle and one Rudder , ie complete HOTAS System Conversion.
Thanks
The Seller has replied about the "Ejoy V3 Board" and what it supports , so I asked about pricing too.
Hi Kbird
Motherboard Ejoy V3 Can receive : (4) tle5010 (5) 74hc165 SR ( use as keyboard get 128 keys) (*** I think this might be 120keys ? ie (5) x 24 outputs per board or 8 per SR Chip ) +4 Cool hat.
My gameport Combatstick grip looks very different inside. The pcb is very simple and has no diodes on it (see pics). The stick is from 1998 and must have an early version maybe? I will check if the matrix is the same as yours when I have the time but it looks like I will have to add all the diodes myself.
Mine is a 1997 combatstick jane's edition. I didn't put any diodes on it. It's working pretty well.
Really nice combo, Airwolfmutley! I'm going for the Suncom Throttle myself. It will be the second conversion after I finish the Combatstick .
This is what the inside of my sticks base looked like, before I took out all the old parts:
There are even two seperate cable lines coming out of the grip! All the buttons were connected to the same ground. I took it all out and began to rewire it completely. Yours looks a lot more advanced to begin with!
#4415357 - 04/09/1801:31 AMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: StrangeD0S]
I'm going for the Suncom Throttle myself. It will be the second conversion after I finish the Combatstick .
If you don't pretend "reinvent the wheel" Suncom SFS throttle conversion for USB is very easy (like CH sticks), just need add extra wire in (2) potentiometer and an wire for button #21 and fit the Arduino inside.
#4415449 - 04/09/1803:57 PMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: StrangeD0S]
The Seller has replied about the "Ejoy V3 Board" and what it supports , so I asked about pricing too.
Hi Kbird
Motherboard Ejoy V3 Can receive : (4) tle5010 (5) 74hc165 SR ( use as keyboard get 128 keys) (*** I think this might be 120keys ? ie (5) x 24 outputs per board or 8 per SR Chip ) +4 Cool hat.
Hi guys the Seller of the TLE5010 Boards etc now has a New link up for a "Complete Package" as mentioned above , I Ordered mine and it has shipped ,so hopefully I will see it in a few Weeks rather that Months, as i tried the HongKong Post method instead of the Free Shipping , as only the US currently has the special fast Shipping Option.
Just wanted to let you guys know that I have a bunch of parts/PCBs left from my builds. In case you are interested and dont want to order from China, I am based in Germany. I have 24 Bit 74HC165 and CD4021 shift registers, completed TLE5011 sensors and mainboards left. I also modified a CH Combatstick with shift regs and 3D printed adapter to fit my Baur BRD DS base. That base and the corresponding pedals (BRD MS3) also have a MMJoy2 DIY mainboard installed. I also have modified a CH Pro Throttle with a similiar mainboard and built an adapter for TM Cougar Throttle standalone conversion. I simply love MMJoy2 and the TLE sensors, such a versatile and awesome combination!
24 Bit CD4021 and 74HC165 shift regs: (made a larger batch of CD4021 shift regs due to some requests)
These shift registers are really minimum footprint, the ones that can be daisy chained are 23x50x9 mm and the ones without daisy chaining capacity are 23x45x9 mm. They really fit everywhere. With or without 2mm pitch connectors and CD4021 types are fully compatible to Thrustmaster hardware.
TLE 5011 sensors:
BRD Joystick and rudder mainboards:
CH Throttle conversion with mainboard:
TM Cougar Throttle standalone USB (due to some requests I have made a small batch for sale)
Currently my main focus is making 3D printed, ball bearing, sealed "Hall sensors" for the older generation joysticks. (TM, CH, Saitek) I am pretty far ahead now, but using KMZ41 GMs instead of hall sensors. However it is progressing rather slowly as I have to get my PhD done as well. Here are pictures of an earlier prototype:
Last edited by rel4y; 04/13/1807:35 PM.
#4416191 - 04/13/1808:02 PMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
Thanks for the replies. My gameport Combatstick grip looks very different inside. The pcb is very simple and has no diodes on it (see pics). The stick is from 1998 and must have an early version maybe? I will check if the matrix is the same as yours when I have the time but it looks like I will have to add all the diodes myself.
Thats the early gameport CH type. It is perfect for shift register use. I converted mine with a 74HC165 shift reg and it is awesome! I modified another later USB type which had a diode array for a friend (with a CD4021), but it required much more work. Have a look at the following thread and ask if you need help.
Thanks for the replies. My gameport Combatstick grip looks very different inside. The pcb is very simple and has no diodes on it (see pics). The stick is from 1998 and must have an early version maybe? I will check if the matrix is the same as yours when I have the time but it looks like I will have to add all the diodes myself.
Thats the early gameport CH type. It is perfect for shift register use. I converted mine with a 74HC165 shift reg and it is awesome! I modified another later USB type which had a diode array for a friend (with a CD4021), but it required much more work. Have a look at the following thread and ask if you need help.
Btw does anyone know if I need to hardware debounce encoders or if MMJoy2 does that in software?
Damn, I have already started with the diode matrix on mine but I think I will be satisfied with it. Also progressing rather slowly since I have to get my MA done xD. So this is mainly procrastination. Dein Projekt sieht aber sehr cool aus!