I also found another Image I have that has Pin14 as B2 but it is not clear if that is a MMjoy2 layout, ( it has something called EIXOS?? labelled on it) so I won't post it either since the official pinout below and second image above agrees with the MMjoy (MegaMozg's) Pinouts on the Wiki and posted just above.
This image?
I make this "EIXOS" notation for a Portuguese language forum, means "analog axis" (inputs), and the picture are inside the first MMjoy2 packages released.
A colleague from that forum wire TLE5010 per this scheme and work OK.
I have been thinking about using DB connectors like you did on pedals.
Also thought about maybe RJ12 last night. Just need crimpers if I go that way.
Yes I reused some old gameport connectors I have from an old gameport switchbox and reused an old gameport extension cable for the main connection. I used Wiring from an old PS harness I think in the pedals themselves but now know I would use something like the CH Engineers' did of a smaller gauge, so it is more flexible. Perhaps more wire from some old gameport cables , since there are 15 fine wires....I used a fair bit of that in the TQS etc rewiring stuff, usinf my auto wire stripper made it fairly easy to strip the out insulation off the old gameport cables.
RJ12 is an idea , but I'd suggest RJ45 perhaps , so at least you can make you own network cables too if buying crimpers.... Cat5/6 wire has 8 conductors (4 prs) and they are colour coded so easy to trace and RJ45 Plugs and Cable boots etc are readily available usually
I also found another Image I have that has Pin14 as B2 but it is not clear if that is a MMjoy2 layout, ( it has something called EIXOS?? labelled on it) so I won't post it either since the official pinout below and second image above agrees with the MMjoy (MegaMozg's) Pinouts on the Wiki and posted just above.
This image?
I make this "EIXOS" notation for a Portuguese language forum, means "analog axis" (inputs), and the picture are inside the first MMjoy2 packages released.
A colleague from that forum wire TLE5010 per this scheme and work OK.
Yes Sokol , that's the one , looking at MegaMozg's Labels B2 and B3 are labelled incorrectly , but i guess it doesn't matter as long as you define the correct label in MMjoy ? though I think MOSI can be used like any Digital Pin can't it?
I make this "EIXOS" notation for a Portuguese language forum, means "analog axis" (inputs), and the picture are inside the first MMjoy2 packages released.
A colleague from that forum wire TLE5010 per this scheme and work OK.
Sokol sorry my fault raising this.
I have tended to use that image to work by as it was an easy link. The label was just confusing me given other reference.
I also had similar issues around B2/B3 (could not get them to work) when building button box early this year. So much so, that I gave up on them and ended up using D3 (I think from memory).
Probably best I just use WIKI from now on.
Thanks.
[u][/u]
#4384753 - 10/13/1701:48 PMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
I don't know about this B2/B3 "confusion", as this image (EIXOS) is too old, MegaMOZG could be changed assignments later.
To avoid more confusion, what picture you guys suggest for replace this in the start of this topic?
I have been using the WIKI Assignments , on the Compatible Controller Page here : ***edit ...the forum won't allow a direct link to the Compatible controller page ( page 2) for some reason ?
but the link is : https://github.com/MMjoy/mmjoy_en/wiki/Controllers-(compatible-base-boards)
The 1st one is the Pro Micro ( by Sparkfun but now many Clones available too) , which I will use for my next Conversions as the Leonardo was a very tight fit in the FLCS, though I may use the Micro ( not Pro) instead since I now have some of both.
did you delete your other post? ( i got two emails this morning)
check in the Windows Joysticks App , that you don't need to invert the Axis's , as it looks like the X axis (black) may need it ( moves down screen now )...ie it is working opposite Y axis direction in red up the screen , you can also check the left/right to make sure it doesn't need inverting too .... the invert checkbox is handy as it saves you having to rewire stuff.
The TLE5010's really shouldn't need filtering , and I don't think I noticed much difference wherever I set it but it's been a few months since I did my FLCS.....filtering helps with Pots especially if they are a little worn though.
I may convert my spare FLCS/TQS now I have found another X-Fighter locally for $20, so got it for spare part's and perhaps will use the Gimbal if it has the same one , as the one I had already, since it is stiffer than the FLCS.
did you delete your other post? ( i got two emails this morning)
check in the Windows Joysticks App , that you don't need to invert the Axis's , as it looks like the X axis (black) may need it ( moves down screen now )...ie it is working opposite Y axis direction in red up the screen , you can also check the left/right to make sure it doesn't need inverting too .... the invert checkbox is handy as it saves you having to rewire stuff.
The TLE5010's really shouldn't need filtering , and I don't think I noticed much difference wherever I set it but it's been a few months since I did my FLCS.....filtering helps with Pots especially if they are a little worn though.
I may convert my spare FLCS/TQS now I have found another X-Fighter locally for $20, so got it for spare part's and perhaps will use the Gimbal if it has the same one , as the one I had already, since it is stiffer than the FLCS.
Yes I deleted it when I discovered the Magnet Offset fixed the problem and that they seemed they may be ok.
I was getting almost no movement on left rudder and on the right I got a move in the wrong direction initially followed by a violent move in opposite. Brakes had similar issue, I found an early post in thread that talked about similar issue so I tried the offset and it seemed to correct things to something I imagine is correct. Hense deletion.
I tried a filer of 12 1st following on from your earlier post but after re-reading github I tried reducing. I tried 2 but there was some jittery type of lines so I up'ed it a little. I could maybe go back a bit.
Have you a pic of a sample of VKB Joystick Tester of good axes on TLE5010?
Below are pics from VKBTester prior to applying offset to left and right brakes. You will notice the vertical lines. Without knowing a lot at all about this I thought that they were not good to have.
I will try and reproduce original view of rudder from prior to offset application.
#4385163 - 10/16/1701:48 AMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
Are you talking about my wierd issues with the TLE5010's and the violent swing in the opposite direction? back about pages 134-136.....then on 140-141 I figured out my magnet north poles and remounted them....
- That appears to have been because I had mounted the magnet vertically like Penzija did , but then discovered I had diametrically magnetised magnets ( as they should be) not Axially magnetised magnets like Penzija had , once I mounted the magnets flat and did the MMjoy calibration that issue was gone , and I don't need magnet offset....I'm not sure what it does actually....so I was wondering what it did for you...
- did you check your north / south on the magnets?
I set my TLE5010 filters back to 4 last night from 12 as a test and haven't noticed any difference so far....
my TLE5010 are on my FLCS Axis's so the VKB tester shows them differently than they would be for Toe Brakes , since the joystick axis's are centred , while toe brakes are either 0 or 1024 when not depressed , I had to use the invert checkbox for both mine to get them to show as 0 (off/no) bar in the Windows Game Controller App, in VKB that means they come down the screen when depressed .
The Image is my FLCS TLE5010 moving left/right and up/down... so probably not that helpful?
Are you talking about my wierd issues with the TLE5010's and the violent swing in the opposite direction? back about pages 134-136.....then on 140-141 I figured out my magnet north poles and remounted them....
- That appears to have been because I had mounted the magnet vertically like Penzija did , but then discovered I had diametrically magnetised magnets ( as they should be) not Axially magnetised magnets like Penzija had , once I mounted the magnets flat and did the MMjoy calibration that issue was gone , and I don't need magnet offset....I'm not sure what it does actually....so I was wondering what it did for you...
- did you check your north / south on the magnets?
I set my TLE5010 filters back to 4 last night from 12 as a test and haven't noticed any difference so far....
my TLE5010 are on my FLCS Axis's so the VKB tester shows them differently than they would be for Toe Brakes , since the joystick axis's are centred , while toe brakes are either 0 or 1024 when not depressed , I had to use the invert checkbox for both mine to get them to show as 0 (off/no) bar in the Windows Game Controller App, in VKB that means they come down the screen when depressed .
The Image is my FLCS TLE5010 moving left/right and up/down... so probably not that helpful?
Yes I think that was post and yes realise the situ there. But still set me thinking. I did check poles and think I got it right. Maybe not hurt to check again. I loosened bolt to adjust magnet position and re-tightened. It is possible they still moved a bit on me. The shape of curve did suggest the magnet may have been off but I really don't know enough.
I set rudder back to no offset and re-ran calibration to show how they were. See pic below.
#4385184 - 10/16/1703:12 AMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
Perhaps post some pics of what you have done physically with the mounts etc so others can suggest some ideas or modifications ......
The only other issue I had with my 5010's was that I used a loose fitting metal washer on the Old Pot Shaft 1st time around as a spacer and I think it was rotating and effecting the magnetic field, that I fixed by replacing them with UHMW Plastic washers.
Is that the Rudder in the pic or one of the toe brakes ? certainly looks a bit weird to me ...
after you calibrated the TLE5010 in MMjoy did you set the Calibration to a saved typed --- either with or without centre ...with for rudder without for toebrakes...
Perhaps post some pics of what you have done physically with the mounts etc so others can suggest some ideas or modifications ......
Yes I will try to do that.
Originally Posted by Kbird
The only other issue I had with my 5010's was that I used a loose fitting metal washer on the Old Pot Shaft 1st time around as a spacer and I think it was rotating and effecting the magnetic field, that I fixed by replacing them with UHMW Plastic washers.
No issues there I actually used double sided carpet tape to fix to bolt. Bolt is a Stainless Steel so no much magnetism there. Also I understand that it should not matter. I have maybe a millimeter gap between sensor and magnet.
Originally Posted by Kbird
Is that the Rudder in the pic or one of the toe brakes ? certainly looks a bit weird to me ...
Yep it is or was before I applied offset.
Originally Posted by Kbird
after you calibrated the TLE5010 in MMjoy did you set the Calibration to a saved typed --- either with or without centre ...with for rudder without for toebrakes...
Yes I did see the software picture in this earlier post :http://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4385049/re-mmjoy-mmjoy2-build-your-own-usb-controller#Post4385049
#4387435 - 10/30/1708:13 PMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Barra]
I'm taking my first step into modifying a joystick of mine (Extra buttons and a thumbstick for a T16000m).
I'm having a bit of trouble understanding something potentially very basic, though.
Here's my current setup (apologies for the shoddy drawing...):
This works, and I can get all inputs recognised so far in the MMjoy2 Software and within Windows, except for the push button on the Thumbstick (SEL).
I can't quite figure out how to do this, as from what I can tell, two pins are required for a button to work. If I cable another connection from GND to another pin and set the two pins up in the button matrix, I can get the button recognised, but the analogue axis go crazy. it seems to want either to work.
Apologies if this is the wrong place to ask, but I'd appreciate any help if possible
Cheers,
#4387478 - 10/31/1712:53 AMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: FFLink]
My guess is it doesn't need an extra GND wire and all you need is a wire from SEL to a Digital input like A2 ......I think the pushbutton is probably already internally grounded when you push it, just like the Axis pins are.
Find the joystick's DATA sheet online if you don't have it and check it out
It's a regular button, and you didn't wired it.... I do use one of those but without it's pcb,... I've unsoldered one from an old gamepad.
Ah, yes, I didn't wire it in this picture just because I wasn't sure what to do with it.
Originally Posted by Kbird
My guess is it doesn't need an extra GND wire and all you need is a wire from SEL to a Digital input like A2 ......I think the pushbutton is probably already internally grounded when you push it, just like the Axis pins are.
Find the joystick's DATA sheet online if you don't have it and check it out
KB
I think I tried this once, but it was when I was using crapping cables on a breadboard, so it's possible there was a loose connection.
Do you know if I would I need to add the pin to the Button matrix config within MMjoy2, or will it just get picked up if there's a signal sent to a pin?
The wiki for MMjoy2 gave me the impression that the only way to add buttons was to either use a button matrix or shift register, and I was getting confused because from this button I only have one pin, so nothing to use as a Row/Column.
Also, I assume I would also need a Diode between the button and Pro Micro pin?
Thank you both for your help. I'll check out the Data sheet online and see if that helps clear anything up as well
#4387520 - 10/31/1710:06 AMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: FFLink]
FFLink[/quote]...Do you know if I would I need to add the pin to the Button matrix config within MMjoy2, or will it just get picked up if there's a signal sent to a pin?[/quote]
I would isolate the button from the pcb (cutting it's bonding to the circuit and wired it directly to the row and column. Other thing you can research is if you can configure a direct button without matrix. I assume the SEL pin goes high (VCC) with you press the button. I've never used mmjoy2 without matrix nor I know if it's possible. Again, easy work around is to do wire as I advice earlier.
Last edited by Forsaken_joystick; 10/31/1710:08 AM. Reason: quote looked weird