My T16000m mod has been on ice for over a year now because of how much of a headache it is. If you can get hall effect yaw working I'd love to swap out the original PCB and move it all to mmjoy2. I remember reading that the sensor can detect rotation axis as well, would be much better than the terrible pot in the stick now.
"The two (2) angular information are computed from the three (3) vector components of the flux density (i.e. BX, BY and BZ). The MLX90333 reports two (2) linear output signals. The output formats are selectable between Analog, PWM and Serial Protocol."
Last edited by Sokol1; 08/10/1710:45 PM.
#4374278 - 08/14/1704:37 PMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
I have a CH Combatstick Grip and want to connect it to my BRD Baur DS base via MMjoy2. The base already has two TLE5011 sensors connected for X and Y axis.
So now I have decoded the button matrix of the CH Combatstick and already bought some 74HC165 shift registers via AliExpress. It is possible to connect a button matrix to a shift register, correct? What about the 8 way POV hat, does it work via a shift register?
If you decode the Combatstick matrix is not need Shift register, and so just adapt CH connector, the one that goes in base PCB for MMjoy2 matrix, and speed the things.
If you opt to Shift Register (no technical advantage in use this instead matrix, but is more "elegant") will be need re-wire each button and HAT corner of CH grip to Shif Register PCB.
How decode the matrix:
Take a multimeter, set in continuity mode.
Put one tip in left pin of CH connect, press a button in grip (a 3rd/4rd hands will help a lot), now start probe the other pins of connector until find one that change multimeter readings. Take note of the pair and wires colors, e.g. 1 black + 5 orange = button 3.
This is the matrix scheme (5x rows/lines x 4 columns) for CH Fighterstick, I guess that for CH Combatstick is used 2 x 7 = 10 buttons + 4 POV HAT
I have a CH Combatstick Grip and want to connect it to my BRD Baur DS base via MMjoy2. The base already has two TLE5011 sensors connected for X and Y axis.
So now I have decoded the button matrix of the CH Combatstick and already bought some 74HC165 shift registers via AliExpress. It is possible to connect a button matrix to a shift register, correct? What about the 8 way POV hat, does it work via a shift register?
Hi rel4y , I can confirm they are working for me ....the updated PCB was to include some resistors that were left out , but were in earlier versions of MMjoy2 and MMjoy PCB designs.I was having (many) issues without them with keys pressing themselves at random and the Chips just stopping working in MMJoy2...was pretty frustrating till Erichos found the main issue ..the missing 10K resistor on the Data Trace.
I actually didn't make PCB's or Order Them for my SR Boards I made them using Prototype Board and just copying the traces from that PCB design. I also used Sockets for the Chips in case one ever burns out, so I can replace it easily. I used Sprint Viewer to look at the PCB designs and Print them , Sprint Demo doesn't allow Printing....
As for SR Boards and Button Matrixes ...it is one or the Other ... the SR replaces the need for button Matrixes but you can use both in One Stick . With Button Matrices you need to use 1N4148 Diodes as well so you don't get repeated Keys (ghosting) etc , Neither the Diodes or SR's are expensive enough to have to Order from AliExpress , which can take months in some cases...at least for me...
I have already decoded the Combatstick matrix, it is a 4x4 matrix. rows = purple, grey, white, orange columns = green, brown, blue, red (POV)
The problem is the cable isnt long enough to directly connect it to a Promicro shield in the base, therefore I wanted to connect it to a shift register halfways and save some pins while Im at it. Now I understand it is either one or the other, which makes perfect sense looking at the wiring.
I will make a PCB for 24/32 buttons with resistor networks and upload it to OSH Park. I own Sprint layout 6, so I can use all the PCB files by megamozg and capitanblood etc.
Are the pull up 10K resistors for the serial Data inputs really required? What do they accomplish?
Last edited by rel4y; 08/18/1711:46 PM.
#4375282 - 08/19/1712:20 AMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
Can you not just extend or replace the Handle Wires with longer ones? and run them all the way to the ProMicro ? I replaced many in my FLCS/TQS with longer ones , eg from an old Gameport Cable.
For me the R10K on Data is what stopped all my issues and when I checked older Revsions of the Firmware and the included PCB Layouts it was there....it was just bad luck I was using 2016-8-18 and followed the included Layout in that. But Why? is not something I can explain , perhaps and electronic expert like Erichos can....
Yes extending the wires would be the easiest and most logical solution. But now I am thinking about using a PS2 type connector between base and grip, so I can easily switch grips. I would like the CH Combatstick for modern stuff and a KG12 type for WWII.
Sergeype on the IL2 forums has posted a recent version of 74HC165 SR with resistor networks. The schematic differs a wee bit from the one posted here. He has done the GND - VCC decoupling C on input and output side, 10k Ohm pullup R on the last data input side and 10k Ohm pullup on the CS pin input side. I cant really make sense of this... :/
Thanks guys!
Edit: Ok, on his shield he also has DATA and CS pullup Rs before connecting them to the Pro Micro.
Last edited by rel4y; 08/19/1701:25 AM.
#4375352 - 08/19/1703:28 PMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
Using this adapters worth install a Shift Register PCB inside grip, because this reduce the number of wires to 5, necessary for use PS2 style connector.
Last edited by Sokol1; 08/19/1704:03 PM.
#4375379 - 08/19/1705:29 PMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
Thanks Sokol for pointing me in the right direction. You are an Encyclopedia for the DIY virpil community!
Originally Posted by Sokol1
Using this adapters worth install a Shift Register PCB inside grip, because this reduce the number of wires to 5, necessary for use PS2 style connector.
Yeah thats why I want to go with a shift register, I will go with a 24B SR layout so I can upgrade some of the buttons with 4 way hats later on.
I have CAD designed a fixed connector already and maybe I will try to modify that one first. I have the possibility to locally CNC the part from Aluminium which I would much prefer over 3D printing or SLS tbh.
But first I would need to source a metal Gardena nut to design around. All the links in Debolestis thread I have tested so far seem to be dead and I am not sure what I need exactly.
Edit: Nevermid I found the Gardena type: GARDENA 8167. Now I just need to wait till it arrives.
Last edited by rel4y; 08/19/1706:46 PM.
#4375746 - 08/21/1709:09 PMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: rel4y]
He has done the GND - VCC decoupling C on input and output side, 10k Ohm pullup R on the last data input side and 10k Ohm pullup on the CS pin input side. I cant really make sense of this... :/ Ok, on his shield he also has DATA and CS pullup Rs before connecting them to the Pro Micro.
Well, an extra decoupling capacitior never hurts. 10K pullup resistor on the data input is needed to stop the input from hanging in the air (it's recommended both for 74HC165 and CD4021). All the other pullup resistors both on the shift register board and on the shield can be removed (except for the one on MISO line and the one on the "DTA" pin of the "SHIFT REG IN" connector on 16-, 32- and 48-button shields). I was using them while experimenting with very long leads to external register boards but actually it's an overkill.
Last edited by SergeyPe; 08/22/1707:13 AM.
#4379731 - 09/15/1712:34 PMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]