I should of also mentioned Surrrise that you should connect MISO (MMjoy SR-Data) from the TLE5010 boards to another Digital Pin ( any one you have free)
as the TLE MISO (common) will interfere with the MISO data from the Handle PCB which has 3x 4021 Shift registers on it.

FYI I found I lost the Handle buttons when I did this before knowing the above information.....

I finally have a flyable FLCS , so I have been working on the TQS again after deciding to add a SR PCB and a 12 position switch to it as well , plus some mom. buttons to fully use the 2 chip SR PCB and I seem to have an issue
with the Radio Switch T2-T5 ..... sometimes one button disappears and sometimes two , usually down ,and sometimes left , all was fine the whole afternoon but then again last night the left button disappeared , after much
messing around and testing wires etc again, I cut out the diode (again) so I could test continuity properly and the button worked again , and with a new diode in place is working again too now , at 1st I thought I had the diode in backwards,
as it was one button only , then two disappeared, but after replacing diodes (tested before soldering) and losing the buttons again I am wondering if I am somehow killing Diodes? Is that somehow possible?

Second problem is with MMjoy , everything works fine on my Desktop, but with all this testing, I wanted to Test buttons etc where I was working on the TQS , so I installed MMjoy on my Surface 3 Tablet ,
but MMJoy keeps saying it "Can not Identify the Device" , which is not an error I have seen anyone mention before. I thought it maybe a Driver issue, so I installed Arduino IDE 1.8.2 and the Surface
sees and identifies a Leonardo and Uno with no problems but MMjoy still says it can't identify the Leonardo in the TQS (which works fine on my desktop) although I appear to have the HID device in
Device Manager as usual.

Thanks

KB.

Thank you for the information but it is not im my case - my joystick will only have two axes and two/three buttons so one ProMicro will full handle it

Hi All ,
Unfortunately it looks like I may have killed my Computer this morning while trying to figure out why the TQS POT was showing very limited range in the VKB Joytester. I disconnected the Pot from the Handle and went to turn the pot by hand to check the range but while doing that I dropped the Pot back into the upside down base , The Leonardo disappeared from MMjoy and the Windows game Controller I also had open , so I unplugged the USB a few times and it didn't comeback so I decided to reboot the desktop and see if something was just "upset" somehow but the Computer now won't Boot , it comes on , fans spin etc but no Boot beep as usual and it just sits there not even a Bios screen .

I am thinking the 5v power side of the pot hit a ground wire and has not only fried the USB port(s) but also the CPU or south/northbridge , which will mean a new MB and or CPU , so if anyone has any ideas or experience with this kind of thing please let me know , I'm not sure how to proceed at the moment but it may not be worth fixing if I need a new MB and CPU ( which means new ram too likely)

Thx.

Hi Kbird,

take out the USB plug of your TQS, unplug the main power plug and open your PC. In the manual there must be descripted a reset button on the mainboard or you have to shorten to pins with a jumper. After that try to boot again.

Before you do this, check also your USB-Ports at the PC. Eventually there is someting wrong with them. Disconnect the internal cables from the mainboard, which often connect to the front USB ports of the computer case. Could be that something of the port itself was the problem that the pot of the TQS didn't worked correctly. Those ports very often trend to wear out and its also possible to break them easy without realizing it. If there is a short on one of this ports, the computer want boot at all.

If anything is fried, its the USB controller on the mainboard itself, but this can sometimes result in the PC BIOS not booting, cause it can't initialize correctly. Some mainboards boot, but you couldn't use the USB anymore, some do not even boot at all.

Hope you can fix it without the need of buying new hardware!

P.S: There are fuses near the USB controller chip. Sometimes its possible to see if they are burned. I was able to solder some new in, on one of my old mainboards, but it's a real challange cause of the smd size. You have to be carefull not to burn the new ones during the soldering. If they gave up before the controller chip was fried, all will be good after changing them, but there is also the possibility that the controller itself is toast. In this case you have to buy a new board.

Hi , well I am back online I am happy to say ..Phew ..... as it turns out the electrical surge somehow scrambled the Bios Chip without doing damage to anything else it appears so far , all USB ports and Hubs etc seem to be working etc .

It was a bit of a journey to get it running again but while under my Desk this afternoon I pushed the Clr Cmos Button while unplugging the USB cables , but not really thinking it would help anything and started the computer on the off chance it might boot ( hope is eternal when you have done something dumb and cost yourself hundreds of $$$ ) , well it didn't, but I left it running while I went to get a coffee and look online for new computer parts on my Surface 3 . About a 1/2hr later I heard the usual Bios Beep, by the time I got to the computer it was saying it had a bad checksum and couldn't find a ???? , it then automatically loaded a backup bios from the 2nd chip on the MB and rebooted. I had forgotten that this MB has the Gigabyte Dual Bios, which has saved my day ( week i guess ) .

It reflashed the MB's original bios which got it up and running again , at least to the Bios , but unfortunately, it would not boot as the Bios it had , had been updated several times and had a different Raid Controller Bios and it was detecting my Raid Array as "encrypted" , with the Original Board bios. I updated the bios with QFlash but none of the Original 1mb bios files helped with that issue but I could not figure out how to load a newer 2mb Bios from a Floppy disk or even a USB Drive.......but I found the answer online and it was that you had to use Gigabyte's Windows @bios Utility as it was capable of overwriting the Qflash 1mb limit.... which was an issue since I could not access Windows , online the advice was to install Windows on another HD just for the bios flash, then take it out again. But thankfully, I had made a KYHI Rescue Disk last year (found on Ten Forums) and booted into it , then turned on Networking (menu) and downloaded @Bios and installed it and installed the Bios I was on originally, and rebooted and it appears all is well so far .....

So you can bet I will be making the latest KYHI Rescue Disk to add to my collection too .... , you can find it here if you'd like to look into it....

https://www.tenforums.com/software-apps/27180-windows-10-recovery-tools-bootable-rescue-disk.html


Now back to my "Other Issues"


KB.

Hi Kbird,

glad to hear that all is working again! Hey you just saved a lot of money you can now spent in your HOTAS project

Ok, ok some logic I have in such situations, but if you could explain in a clever way to your wife ....

New here and a bit overwhelmed by the size of the thread

Is MMJoy fully compatible with the Teensy 3.1? I'm guessing it is, as I don't think there were any major changes to create obstacles but not sure.

I have one here, but also have some Arduino Pro Micros I can fall back on. Will be using Honeywell Hall sensors.

Attached is a photo and a screenshot of the gimbal I built and printed. I tried attaching the 123dx file so anyone could use it but the attachment manager's not a fan of the format.
It's designed with the idea that you could mount the gimbal to either the bottom of a box or invert the biggest piece and mount it to the top of the joystick box housing.

My intent is to use it as a Huey stick.

I've also done some experimentation with using an EDTracker mounted in a printed case as a free-floating stick. It's worked well sometimes, and then not others. I think it might be magnetic interference.

Anyway, if anyone wants the design file just give a shout. It's designed so that the heads of M3 bolts go into the bodies of the objects and push out through washers. That way you can print threaded mounts of whatever type (for magnets, sensors, etc) for your screws.

Edit: Posted it on MyMiniFactory. https://www.myminifactory.com/object/36438

You might want to edit the description a bit - a 2.1mm layer height is kind of excessive. Are you using 608 skate bearings in there?

g.

No, MMjoy2 firmware is for Arduinos based on ATMEGA32u4, Teensy 3.x is based on Cortex-M4.

It does support Teensy2 or 2++ but not the 3 so you'll need to use your Micros....

more details in the Wiki here : https://github.com/MMjoy/mmjoy_en/wiki/Controllers-(compatible-base-boards)

Oops Good catch Yup, Some cheap skate bearings I picked up for building a CNC mill with Had some extra

when i try and download and open the gimbal above, the Casey Wagner one, I get a Certificate Trust List notification from the computer so I can't open it. Any suggestions on how to get around this? failing that, anyone got any dimensions for this unit?
Mick bevan

That's weird. Are you using some kind of web of trust plugin in your browser? MyMiniFactory is a well-known site.
The STLs should download as a zip archive.
I can also post them on Thingiverse and Pinshape too

It's about 90x70 mm in XY. The Z is variable because of the two possible configurations

Ah, it's some microsoft nanny state thing. Unless Bill Gates has personally shaken the hand of the website designer, thou shalt not pass!! I don't know...

I just posted it on Thingiverse so you can get it there as well https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2361683

Direct link to the 123Dx file on my onedrive account: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AjtCaWJs4i9KgfV04PR0OSMGXI4Thg
and
Direct link to the STL file on OneDrive : https://1drv.ms/u/s!AjtCaWJs4i9KgfV1PSFFstR1DMHCrw

you're a rock star! thanks very much. as soon as I get it printed, I'll let you know.

regards
Mick

i bought usb panels successfully from taobao.
http://simhq.com/forum/tmp/2710.jpg

I bought a base panel and 6 TLE5010 and 2 Shift reg panel. The seller sent me plus neodium magnets and USB cabel and all nessesery wires to connect this panels and buttons.
I have to figure out how to separate this between TQS and FLCS.

Can I mix this shift reg with the original FLCS shift reg?

All who use the timers:
What delay interval do you choose and which mode?
I have plans to make one standard type "20ms and ON + OFF" mode

Do you mean only 20ms and on+off will be available?


I am using 100ms ON ( 12p Rot. Switch) and experimenting with 160ms on on My FLCS

I am using 40ms ON+OFF (encoder) and 100ms ON ( 12p Rot. Switch) on on My TQS

Currently using 2016-8-18 Firmware