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#4414206 - 04/01/18 08:39 PM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kbird]  
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So, after playing around a little bit, I decided to go the way Sokol and Kbird (bad solder and ground issue) suggested. I started to pull apart the connections. I just pulled off the Green and Brown splices from the pin, leaving the Pot and Handel connection soldered for each of them (ground and power), then I hooked up jumpers between the pins and the spliced groups, plugged everything in and it works. I have buttons!. I re-soldered everything back togethter and it's still working correctly. thanks all for the help.

I think I'm going to take the keyboard wire and splice the USB connection to that. I think it was Tazz (maybe it was Kbird or SolderMonkey) that said that earlier in the thread as it leaves a very nice look and has strain relief.

My next question is how to anchor the board. As I said, I have some PC boards that I bought, but they have copper on them and i'm not sure if I shoudl use them...how do you guys anchor your boards...hot glue? Won't that damage the underside of the board with the reset switch/light? any ideas would be appreciated. I could use double sided tape...but not sure how secure that will be.

Thanks

Slarti.

Inline advert (2nd and 3rd post)

#4414208 - 04/01/18 08:47 PM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kbird]  
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Well it could of been worse you could of sat around watching bad tv re-runs on a Sat. Night smile

Probably a few others around who would like Copies of the Stickworks Software like Polish if we can find a way to Post it.

The moving of the GND and PWR is something I did , to make sure I didnt have some weird GND or wiring issue but may not help,
If you Soldered the Pins in yourself ? have you checked for any solder bridges top and bottom of the board ?

did you connect all the cables to the PC , eg the Keyboard cable which I assume the FLCS needs to power it's "keyboard"

you are making me think I need to install a sound card on my Old PC which has an XP dualboot and test the second set of FLCS and TQS I have,
the old TM Software i have on the SD Card sees the computer Keyboard in the button test but I don't have all the ports for the stick.

Last edited by Kbird; 04/01/18 08:59 PM.

My FLCS+TQS Conversion here on SimHQ

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324940/1
#4414211 - 04/01/18 08:58 PM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Slarti]  
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Originally Posted by Slarti
So, after playing around a little bit, I decided to go the way Sokol and Kbird (bad solder and ground issue) suggested. I started to pull apart the connections. I just pulled off the Green and Brown splices from the pin, leaving the Pot and Handel connection soldered for each of them (ground and power), then I hooked up jumpers between the pins and the spliced groups, plugged everything in and it works. I have buttons!. I re-soldered everything back togethter and it's still working correctly. thanks all for the help.

I think I'm going to take the keyboard wire and splice the USB connection to that. I think it was Tazz (maybe it was Kbird or SolderMonkey) that said that earlier in the thread as it leaves a very nice look and has strain relief.

My next question is how to anchor the board. As I said, I have some PC boards that I bought, but they have copper on them and i'm not sure if I shoudl use them...how do you guys anchor your boards...hot glue? Won't that damage the underside of the board with the reset switch/light? any ideas would be appreciated. I could use double sided tape...but not sure how secure that will be.

Thanks

Slarti.



You have a knack for posting while I am typing smile see above though none of it is important now you got it working....

It was SM who extended his cables to keep the strain relief, and I did it that way too.

I used leonardo's and didn't mount them , there is so many wires etc jammed around them that they didn't need it , especially in the TQS .

You can mount them to the Proto Board , you just need to make sure that you use non-conductive washers ( eg from motherboards of old )
and make sure nothing can touch the back etc. On the SR Boards I made out of Protoboard I put a layer of Hotglue on the back to isolate it
so it could sit of other things and not get a short by accident but it gets messy if you need to do a "fix" , but it is possible to reheat it with
a heat gun to soften it and peel it off if needed.


KB

Last edited by Kbird; 04/01/18 08:59 PM.

My FLCS+TQS Conversion here on SimHQ

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324940/1
#4414213 - 04/01/18 09:06 PM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kbird]  
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That's funny, I was just typing a response as you posted...so I'll change it now. I'm looking at the RobotDyn Micro that I have and there are 4 holes (one each corner) but I'll never find screws small enough to go through the holes. I'm almost thinking of trying to attach the board to some sheet styrene plastic that I have lying around and use some of the plastic trees I have left over from building models to make some type of standoff. I don't know, i gotta think about this. I'd like the board secured someone as I just did the base conversion, no new stuff/additional stuff like you did. After a while I may replace the pots with the magnetic sensors....but for now, this is good enough. Once this is mounted and buttoned up, I have to re-read this thread to start looking at the TQS. That, I think will be much more work, although I seem to recall reading somewhere where there is an easy way to do it by just moving 3 wires and adding only one resistor (can't remember of it was Sokol or SolderMonkey that did it, maybe both of they)....

We'll see, but one thing at a time....

Thx again for all the help. Was really frustrated last night (until the very end when victory was achieved), but this is kinda fun.

Oh, as as for the SW, now that I have it I'm happy to get it to anyone that needs it. Just let me know.

Slarti

#4414220 - 04/01/18 10:28 PM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kbird]  
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You could put the Software in a public Folder on One Drive or Google Drive and put the link here ? I know Polish was trying to do a complete Old school setup with one of his FLCS's , I think one the got 2nd hand came with the SW Chips. what are the File names for the SW Software , I wonder if I have them on an old backup too?

As for the TQS you should add one DIODE ( 1n4108?) not resistor to each wire on the Ribbon cable as the is no SR Chips in the TQS like the FLCS.

http://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.p...-tqs-original-usb-conversion#Post4331519

There are some PDF on Page 26 , if you don't have them already
http://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.p...-tqs-original-usb-conversion#Post4410841

and here on Page 1 for the TQS

http://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.p...-tqs-original-usb-conversion#Post4324075


Last edited by Kbird; 04/01/18 10:31 PM.

My FLCS+TQS Conversion here on SimHQ

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324940/1
#4414402 - 04/03/18 12:59 AM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kbird]  
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Well, it is done!
I have attached two pics. First is the mounting bracket I made. It'll do for now. Used sheet styrene as the anchor point. I used very fine fiberglass rods that just fit up into the 4 mounting holes on the board. If anyone is interested, the diameter is 0.05 x 23.6 in long. (1.2 x 600 mm). I cut 4 small sections, hot glued them to the styrene and then just pressed the board on. Next time, I'll drill out holes in the styrne and glue from above and below. Then I just used double sided tape on the bottom.

2nd pic is the finished product. Looks ok.

Now a few more questions:

First is a mechanical question about the feel of the stick. It's sloppy around the center. ONe of the other sticks I have (the one I tested and the buttons appear to be working) is very very tight, no slop. And this isn't slop around the POTS, both have been shimmed up. This slop appears to be in the center of the stick...any ideas on how I might tighten it up?

Second is around the pots....lots of jitter and the windows joy.cpl applet. I tried the stick out in Elite Dangerous and didn't really do much with it other that make sure it was functioning and that the 6 buttons that I'd programmed were working so I don't think for Elite the pots are show stoppers, but I do think I'm going to replace the pots on what will be my final Joystick (likely the one that is very tight mentioned above).

Third and this is more a config question to KB, how did you label the buttons...or does it matter at all, i.e. I should just label them the way I want and use that as my guide?

Lastly, in Elite Dangerous, I couldn't seem to get the gray hat to move my head left, right, up or down, I thought that it would be recognized as a POV hat and fucntion accordingly...is that no longer the case, and if yes, how do I set it up that way (or would that be game dependent...)?

Thx to all who helped...now it's on the TQS....I gotta reread this thread before I jump into that.... wink

Attached Files IMG_20180402_175448710_HDR (Small).jpgIMG_20180402_180335284 (Small).jpg
#4414429 - 04/03/18 06:56 AM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kbird]  
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Nicely done..... I just got in the Door , its 11:30 pm already so I'll type up more tomorrow morning if I can/ it's needed?....

The stiffness was all about the spring and the rubber Boot on the Stick. there were different springs available at one time depending on how stiff you wanted it.

Turn the filter up in MMjoy2 to 12-14 to help the Pot Jitter lower is better , if possible... (less work for arduino polling)

3rd I am not sure what you are asking? I used the Original button numbers ... old manual PDFs on Page 1...... T1-T14 etc S1 S2 etc and used the same number in the HW Button section of MMjoy, I made some PDFs you can label yourself too on the 1st page.

4th ...did you assign Hat numbers ( up.down,left,right) as seen in MMjoy to HAT POV section of HW Buttons (at top) in MMjoy2

Night.


My FLCS+TQS Conversion here on SimHQ

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324940/1
#4414500 - 04/03/18 03:46 PM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kbird]  
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Thanks KB.

RE joystick slop, I'm referring to the slop around the center of the stick. Once it engaged, it's plenty stiff. It's just around the center before it engages, there is maybe 1/8 in movement fore and aft, left and right before you actually move the springs/pots. That's what I asking about trying to tighten up.

I'll look at the filters later today and see if I can turn them up.

Re button numbers, I'll go ahead and print out your templates.

POV: I hope it's that simple that I just simply forgot to do that....

#4414507 - 04/03/18 04:38 PM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kbird]  
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FLCS and F22PRO (and Cougar) gimbal has plenty of play between parts.

The axis pivot's don't use bearings or at least bronze bushing.
In FLCS and F22PRO the pot need gears (1:1) to be turned - more backslash.
The pole is subject to friction and so wear (very evident in F22PRO and Cougar cheap Zamac gimbal)

Similar thing happens in CH gimbals, but there is used bronze bushing in pivot's and pot' is keep "floating" and part of gimbal, so less evident.

Maybe due low resolution of axis in their original controllers (CH still 8 bits/256 'steeps') this is less noticeable than with a modern USB controller with 4 time more resolution.

#4414696 - 04/04/18 06:48 PM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Viper1970]  
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Originally Posted by Viper1970
As I said before, it's the dream of my past twenty years. I built my flat around the cockpit yep AND I only live with my son. No more wife which could stop such a project biggrin . My girlfriend lives with her son in her own flat. And she is much more tolerant as my exwife ever was. I hope this is still the same if we live together screwy .

The last years I never thought that my project ever becomes reality. I resigned myself that it possibly will ever be just a dream and not more. I hope I can finish it this time. I had a pit 18 years ago, but could never finish it. This is the second start now.

I dreamed of a homepit, since I bought my first WCS Mark 2, with which a flyer came with. It was the announcement of Thrustmasters F-16 cockpit with the title "Built a cockpit in your den". I contacted them about the prices and it relatively soon becomes clear that this is out of my budget. The sold only very few of this cockpits. A guy named Hans Krohn is one of the few, who had such a pit. He is also a real fantastic cockpit builder with great ideas.

As the TM pit was out of my reach, I began to make plans of building one on my own. The first prototype was ready in 1998, but never finished. After many moves to other locations it looked more like a part of a crashed airplane, so I decided to start again if I have the time for it. Never have thought that it will take 18 years before I make a new start.


Hey Viper,
I'm just rereading this thread as I start work on my TQS (I just finished the FLCS) and I saw this. It reminded me that WAY back a long time ago when the CES (Consumer Electronics Show) was still in Chicago, I went there and actually go to fly in Thrustmasters cockpit. This one was motion activated. It was really pretty cool. I wanted one for a long time, but needed the room and when I finally got enough room just never got around to getting one. I occasional see them up on ebay....Somewhere around Here I may actually have one of the brochures for it! If i can find it, I'll scan it and add it to the thread.

Last edited by Slarti; 04/04/18 06:48 PM.
#4414812 - 04/05/18 04:50 AM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kbird]  
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So I jumped into the belly of the beast tonight. I opened up the TQS. It's the older one with the TRACKBALL mouse. I'll get into detail tomorrow, but it does look like I broke off two pins at the bottom as you can see in the second picture. Live and learn I guess.....

I am curious about two things (and I'm still reading through the thread so it may be answered somewhere) but as I recall, the dogfight switch allowed the buttons to function differently based on the position of the dogfight switch. Is this something that can only be done based on the Thrustmaster software or can something similar be done in mmjoy with the shift function?


Second, is there anyway to use the existing mouse? I know from reading that the Arduino won't support it, but is there some other type of board that I could put in that's similar to the Arduino that would allow the mouse to function?

Thx

Slarti.

Attached Files IMG_20180404_231507401 (Small).jpgIMG_20180404_231551876 (Small).jpg
#4415127 - 04/07/18 03:02 AM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Slarti]  
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BUMP....
Hey all, so I've got the TQS apart. I've read through this entire thread (no guarantees that I didn't miss something) and have come up with a lot of questions. But to start with, I'll start with these....

1. did all you guys totally remove all the switches/pots in the TQS to do all the wiring or did you leave anything in place (i.e. in the housing of the TQS while you worked on it)?

2. I'm seriously considering starting out with SolderMonkey's abbreviated TQS conversion, so I have a couple of questions: NOTE: I'm using a RobotDyn Micro board
A. This conversion has a single row and multiple columns and SM states that you don't need diodes for it. Has anyone else done it this way and gotten away with no diodes?
B. So as I count this it gives me the following: 4 buttons from the original comm switch, 2 buttons from the dog fight, 2 buttons from Speed Break, 1 button from the range knob, and 1 button from the mouse (for a total of 10) and 3 pots (Throttle, Range, and antenna).
C. Are the speed brake and dogfight switches just two way with the center position off? I'm assuming they are...If yes, then can I use one of those with the "shift" command to be able to create a secondary set of button presses? this would effectively double the number of buttons...
D. Is it accurate that if I add the xfighter hat, (or something like that) it may force me to have to go to the button matrix? I know in the primary thread (I think) Sokol was discussing using either an analog hat or a digital mini? is the primary difference that the analog takes up Axis and the digital takes up buttons?

3. Arduino hookup:
A. Buttons: so if there are 10 buttons I've not been able to find anything that shows the pinout to the Arduino, how would I hook it up to the Micro? Based on the attached which is a combination of SolderMonkey and KB,I think I need the following:
I need 9 button wires going to any pin on the board with BM, one grnd wire (blue) going to the ground pin , and one 5v wire (green by nubby switch near eraser) going to 5V pin on the board.
B. Pots: i'm assuming that the pots do not hook up to the Micro like they did in the FLCS, I.E. 1 daisy chained 5v (to three pots), 1 daisy chained ground (to three pots) 3 data wires (1 from each pot). I'm assuming the following. Pots in handle get power and ground from the same power and ground connection in the handle, but they will need their own wires (gray and purple) that will go to any AI pin on the board and the actual throttle pot will tie into the ground and 5V pin and it's axis wire will go to any AI pin as well....

I have more questions, but that's all for now. Don't want to overwhelm you guys.
EDIT: Forgot to add the files I was referencing.

Attached Files
Last edited by Slarti; 04/07/18 03:17 AM.
#4415139 - 04/07/18 06:13 AM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kbird]  
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The "mouse" is that small yellow thing?

How many wires is connect to this "mouse".

'Dogfight' and 'speedbrake' are ON-OFF-ON switches. Each will use 2 buttons in USB controller.

Using a matrix - e.g. 2x10 you can use 'dogfight' 2 positions for change between 2 rows of matrix, so in each position the other buttons assume a different button number, and the instead 8 buttons you have 16 or even 24. In that way you are creating a mode selector by hardware, in original TQS this mode selector are done by software.

But to do in this way you need understand well the matrix concept - and in that case use diodes is necessary as button count will surpass 10 - maximum number that allow wire without diodes (a 1 x 10 matrix).

Or leave 'dogfight' as two normal buttons and using a keymapper (e.g. Joystick Gemlin, Joy2Key...) set profiles or "shift' in this 2 buttons, example in DCS you can set this two buttons direct in controls (without need keymapper) as 'switches" - a permanent modifier and then have 24 buttons (8 physical, 16 virtual) - without 'switches' with 'switch 1' and with 'switch 2'.

Quote
I need 9 button wires going to any pin on the board with BM, one grnd wire (blue) going to the ground pin , and one 5v wire (green by nubby switch near eraser) going to 5V pin on the board.


Are some misunderstood there, mix Gnd and + 5V pins with buttons pins will led to short circuit.

With MMjoy2 firmware or you use Diode Matrix of Shift Register, the wires for buttons are connected only in BM pins - some defined as Row and some as Column (or matrix) in MMJoySetup.








#4415199 - 04/07/18 09:25 PM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Sokol1]  
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Hey Sokol,
this is the original trackball mouse. Picture of full assembly is attached. The yellow item is the mouse button. The trackball mouse housing sat on a spring that was attached to the button. When you pushed down on the housing/trackball it clicked the button. To your original question, the mouse has 6 wires coming out of it that run straight to the board.

I like the idea of using the shift key....I want to get more bang for my buck, but maybe it's easier getting a key mapper instead. What is "DCS"? Also, if I use the shift key and setup some shift switches, let me ask a few more questions.

1. Lets start with 10 buttons total. The dogfight switch would be the one I use as the Momentary (speedbrake) would not work as well (always have to hold it in the momentary position). If I assume 3 postions, would it work like this....
Off (middle) position: All buttons are in their normal HW assigned state.
On (back) Position: This would be shift 1 position with an additional 8 buttons (the dogfight switch would not be workable since it's what's being used to generate the "shift"...
On (forward) position: This would be shift 2 potion with an additional 8 buttons.
If this is correct, I understand that for the on (back) position (Shift 1) you would simply map the shift designator in MMJOY2. But how would you get it to map the 2nd Shift buttons? Hope I'm making myself clear, if not, I'll repost with pictures.

Thx

Slarti

Attached Files IMG_20180404_224859294 v2 (Small).jpgIMG_20180404_225030651 (Small).jpgIMG_20180407_115153027 (Small).jpg
#4415208 - 04/07/18 11:09 PM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kbird]  
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Well, without a specific controller circuit no way to use this trackball...

Can use a ALPS RKJXL 5 way switch in the place or a PS3 like mini-stick (2 axis plush push button).

Another option for this "shift" is an extra push button under little finger, so keep 10 buttons + 10 virtual, an since is momentary make "shift" use more natural.

"DCS" is the flight "simulator" DCS Word, in their controls is not need keymapper for set shift or mode.

#4415221 - 04/08/18 01:56 AM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Slarti]  
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Originally Posted by Slarti
So I jumped into the belly of the beast tonight. I opened up the TQS. It's the older one with the TRACKBALL mouse. I'll get into detail tomorrow, but it does look like I broke off two pins at the bottom as you can see in the second picture. Live and learn I guess.....

I am curious about two things (and I'm still reading through the thread so it may be answered somewhere) but as I recall, the dogfight switch allowed the buttons to function differently based on the position of the dogfight switch. Is this something that can only be done based on the Thrustmaster software or can something similar be done in mmjoy with the shift function?


Second, is there anyway to use the existing mouse? I know from reading that the Arduino won't support it, but is there some other type of board that I could put in that's similar to the Arduino that would allow the mouse to function?

Thx

Slarti.


Hi S,

I didn't make it here the last few days so I'm behind on where you goto to , I don't have that Trackball in either of mine I have the Older style Eraser Nub (Hard rubber) with a White push button next to it , I replaced the one I have converted with the Hat out of the X-Fighter I also had. ( also used the X-Fighter base and Gimbal with the FLCS Handle). this required 4 new wires to the Arduino since it is really just 4 momentary switches. Plus the Row Wire IIRC. Perhaps your Trackball button is already wired like the X-fighter Hat ? and can be reused? SM posted a Pic for me....it's below.... 4wires plus row, plus 1 push-button = yours perhaps

I opened and closed mine so many times I broke a few connections etc and ended up marking the pots etc for Orientation ( easy reassemble) and dismantled it about 90% for better access for soldering, pulling new wires in etc, the original soldering was not great.

You don't need to daisychain the pots if you have enough Pins but the handle pots are daisychained anyway for PWR and GND , you can tie the Throttle pot to them too if you want though , and yes all 3 Wiper Wires (middle data wire) go to their own Axis Pins.

I needed a matrix as I had more than 10 buttons , plus a 12T rotary switch and an Encoder , so Diodes were needed on all Column Wires to alleviate Ghosting.

Sokol1's post about using the Dogfight or Speedbrake switch (or adding a momentary switch) as a "Shift" Button is not something I have seen suggested elsewhere, so I am not sure how to wire that one either if it require something different or is simply a MMjoy option? I do know MMJoy can only handle 32 "Special" Buttons , ie those with Timers , Modifiers etc. the Other 96 (above no#32) can act only as assigned ie on/off AFAIK.


DCS World is a free Simulator on Steam , very extensive and realistic , you then buy additional Planes etc if you want too.

http://store.steampowered.com/app/223750/DCS_World/

http://store.steampowered.com/dlc/223750/

I probably missed something so will check back into later tonight or tomorrow morning.

KB.





Attached Files X_Fighter_hat_switch__ Rewiring Guide.jpgX-Fighter Hat_TQS_ (1).JPG
Last edited by Kbird; 04/08/18 01:56 AM.

My FLCS+TQS Conversion here on SimHQ

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324940/1
#4415231 - 04/08/18 04:08 AM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kbird]  
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Hi S,

If you are considering get TLE5010 and some S.Registers then you may want to consider this Deal the Seller of the TLE5010 Boards has ATM.

http://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.p...uild-your-own-usb-controller#Post4415222

see the post after the one above to to Order the Deal....


My FLCS+TQS Conversion here on SimHQ

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324940/1
#4415237 - 04/08/18 04:53 AM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kbird]  
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Hey KB,
I'm tired and heading to bed, but I'll reply tomorrow sometime. I followed the last link in the last post on the MMJOY thread and it just took me to an empty cart. I'm probably interested in the TLE55010s, Don't know about the rest of the stuff...

And no worries about being MIA....it's called life and we all go out and live it! I've been spending time playing Elite Dangerous with my now functional TM FLCS...Very happy about that. I'm actually trying to figure out how to put a shift switch in the FLCS...maybe replace one of the buttons with a switch. It would at least double the functionality. I'd like to put an LED in as well so I always have a visual cue that I'm in shift mode.

I'm also interested in the mini joy stick. I've got links from your thread and the MMJOY thread, but I'll post those up tomorrow....

I've also got some TM spare parts that I've had for literally years...I think I have 4 hat switches, a replacement DF switch and SB switch....I'll think of something.....

#4415238 - 04/08/18 06:11 AM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kbird]  
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 451
Kbird Offline
Member
Kbird  Offline
Member

Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 451
Hi,
the Pinky switch (S4) was usually the Mode switch but I think you want an On/Off Switch Correct? if so you can do what I did with the old Download Button which no longer has a function , I also added a blue LED to it , so I'd know it was On , the download switch has an unused side (6 pins) so I used the un-used pins and a resistor to light the Blue LED. ( think the wiring is in my notes you have ) The yellow LED I added was just to one of the Power Wires , so I'd know if the Stick was plugged in without getting behind or Under my desk , I put a yellow on my TQS as well , both yellows are dulled down with the resistors so they aren't bright like the Blue one , since they are on all the time.

I made my own 16 output SR Boards last time with Prototype board and parts from the local Electronics store but I can't make them for $4.80 each especially with the Wiring and sockets etc , I am also not a fan of my CH Products Pro Pedals but have two sets (and a Pro Throttle) but at some point may make my own Rudders , or a cockpit so decided to just order the Package since it saved money in the end ( basically a set for free ) , the SR boards make it easier to add multiple inputs as you are considering, as the don't require Diodes or a Matrix , (like the FLCS handle SR Boards), in fact I'd have gotten them last time if She'd had them then , it is simple basic wiring and soldering then for the TQS , no diodes or Matrixes to sort out. ( just keep real good track of all the wires , ie put small labels on them (Avery Labels or old cut up floppy labels work.)

You said you had an X-Fighter too didn't you ? did you try it's Gimbal for the FLCS ? my model X-Fighter had a heavy and stiffer base , I also used all the Buttons out of it's Handle , mounted then in the FLCS along the part where the Download Button is but it could be done on the TQS base too I'd think. The X-Fighter POV HAT was also a good fit in my TQS but I have a different model than yours.

KB.



Last edited by Kbird; 04/08/18 06:14 AM.

My FLCS+TQS Conversion here on SimHQ

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324940/1
#4415286 - 04/08/18 05:02 PM Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion [Re: Kbird]  
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,875
Sokol1 Offline
Senior Member
Sokol1  Offline
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,875
Internet
Originally Posted by Kbird

Sokol1's post about using the Dogfight or Speedbrake switch (or adding a momentary switch) as a "Shift" Button is not something I have seen suggested elsewhere, so I am not sure how to wire that one either if it require something different or is simply a MMjoy option?


The idea is wire two of Matrix Rows in side pins of switch - ON-OFF-ON - (under Dogfight)*, middle pins goes for intercept Matrix Columns.

[Linked Image]

With Row 1 connected you have buttons: 1, 2... 10.

With Row 2 connected you have buttons: 11, 12... 20.

If use a ON-ON-ON- switch under Dogfight can add a third Row and have more buttons: 21, 22... 30.

In the joystick Cobra M5 the 'mode' selector work in this same way- different buttons number based on selector postion: http://s18.postimg.org/rif529fi1/Mamba.jpg

An forum colleague use this concept in their custom made "guitar" throttle (with BU0836): http://www.gavca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=18154&start=120#p170527

Or - what I find more practical, using a momentary ON-ON puss button under little finger alternate momentarily between 2 rows, a kind of "shift" by hardware.(1)

* Instead use doghfight switch as "mode" selector can place an extra switch on base or side of TQS grip for this.

(1) EDIT - I am forget that MMJoySetup allow you set a button to by "shift" for other buttons, so the best option for this is add a extra button under little finger in TQS, and set this as "shift" in MMJoySetup.

So the 10 buttons of TQS can be 2 or 3 x 10 with a ON-OFF-ON or ON-On-ON switch as "mode" alternating Matrix rows, with each "mode" momentarily doubled by this "shift" button.










Last edited by Sokol1; 04/12/18 04:17 PM.
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