#4280432 - 07/20/16 07:55 PM
Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
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Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 25
Snagov
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In MMJoy2, there are any posibility to use one interruptor (on/off) to work like a push button? I want use this: Now, i have 3 pulsations on 4,5 and 6 button of MMjoy, but, permanent, not like a pushbutton. I need 3 positions like FW190 in DCS Series, Magnetos: 1 position: off 2 position: magneto 1 3 position: magneto 2 Thanks....
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#4280538 - 07/21/16 04:21 AM
Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: kuabi]
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Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 274
mega_mozg_13
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BELARUS, Minsk
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I am trying to get my head around the button matrix.My problem seems to be when I add another row. Only 1 encoder works and 1 works on one button only. Are there set pins for rows and columns and do they need to be used in a certain order?
kuabibuttons are dynamically numbered sequentially. first goes button maxtrix(BM). second - shift registers(SR). so if you earlier had BM 1*8, SR bind starts from "9" position. when you increase BM to 2*8, SR goes to "17" position. more, BM reading algorytm: loop_for_colunms set column to high state loop_for_rows read row state end_loop_rows clear column high state end_loop_columns every time when you change button's sources you are need to reset encoder/joystick buttons.
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#4281800 - 07/25/16 03:22 PM
Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
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Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 13
Vindicore
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Talking of HOTAS X rebuilds: I added 4 rotary dials with push functions, 3 toggle switches, an analogue thumbstick, a big toggle switch with missile cap. I also got rid of the home, SE and ST buttons and put in their place a 3 position slide switch and a couple of simple push buttons. I separated the throttle from the joystick tether. And I added grip to avoid it feeling like plastic crap. Please ignore the mess around the thumbstick; I used the wrong glue at first and it got a bit melty... Working on the stick now.
Last edited by Vindicore; 07/25/16 03:24 PM.
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#4281811 - 07/25/16 03:50 PM
Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
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Sokol1
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Mega_MOZG, With PRO Micro is possible use 8x4 as matrix format instead of suggested 6x6? Because if possible will be convenient for Suncom SFS connector, in 8 x 3 format. https://s31.postimg.org/o75dwnfdn/SFS.jpg
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#4281829 - 07/25/16 04:29 PM
Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
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Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 274
mega_mozg_13
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BELARUS, Minsk
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Mega_MOZG, With PRO Micro is possible use 8x4 as matrix format instead of suggested 6x6? Because if possible will be convenient for Suncom SFS connector, in 8 x 3 format. https://s31.postimg.org/o75dwnfdn/SFS.jpg as you wish, up to 10*10 =)
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#4282214 - 07/26/16 08:11 PM
Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
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Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 15
triggahappy
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Hello, It has been a while since I did any modding however ever since I have modded my Logitech 3D pro I was always thinking of getting Saitek x35/36 and modding it. Ofc with my luck I could not get it in reasonable price but finally i did. So what's the plan? Well.... nothing too fancy, throttle and joystick with twist rudder (yes I like twist rudder . I'll be using x35 and franken joystick that is an old CH Fligstick combined with Logitech Wingman Attack. Since I'll be using Pro Micro I am trying to save pins and wires between throttle and joystick. I have not decided on buttons yet but will have 7 axis for sure and I am not planning to use button matrix in throttle only shift register. I made a simple schematic af what I am planning. Could you have a look at it and tell me if I got it right? Cheers
Last edited by triggahappy; 07/26/16 08:16 PM.
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#4282332 - 07/27/16 11:40 AM
Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
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Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 15
triggahappy
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Thank you Mega_Mozg I did not know that mcp3208 is analog to digital, shame . For tle5010/11 "cs" you mean any pin on pro micro that can be used for internal/external axis? In mmjoy2_20151118 shift register MISO field I can use any unused pin, it does not have to be MISO than? Cheers
Last edited by triggahappy; 07/27/16 11:57 AM.
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#4282408 - 07/27/16 03:46 PM
Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
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Sokol1
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I did not know that mcp3208 is analog to digital, shame . For tle5010/11 "cs" you mean any pin on pro micro that can be used for internal/external axis? The case is that TLE501x have internal ADC converter (16? bits), so don't need be plugged in another ADC converter (MPC3208). You use MPC3208 to send pot' signal for Arduino in digital format, useful if use long cables, or due PRO Micro pin restriction need use more axis inputs than the six ADC pins available in PRO Micro, as MPC3208 has 8 analog inputs. TLE501x "CS" is the "axis" output and need goes for one of six ADC (axis) input available in PRO Micro. This require individual pin for each sensor. Curiosity: Why your X-36 stick has 4 axis? Is X, Y, twist rudder and the 4rt?
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#4282416 - 07/27/16 04:02 PM
Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
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Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 274
mega_mozg_13
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BELARUS, Minsk
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TLE501x "CS" is the "axis" output and need goes for one of six ADC (axis) input available in PRO Micro.
wrong, "CS" goes to any unused pin (there is no dependencies with internal ADC).
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#4282467 - 07/27/16 07:03 PM
Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
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Joined: Apr 2016
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erichos
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Sorry I am confused guys. Which pin I have to use for shift register? In PCB folder is scheme fo 74HC165 and there is pin MOSI but in MMJoy2 software is pin MISO for shift register setting ?! Which one is right please? On ProMicro board are both pins - MISO and MOSI. Thanks
EDIT: I tested it and it doesn`t matter. I can use any pin for MISO(MOSI) and CS for shift registers and pins that I use I have to set in MMJoy2. That`s all. Thx.
Last edited by erichos; 07/27/16 07:56 PM.
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#4282480 - 07/27/16 08:11 PM
Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
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Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 15
triggahappy
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Thank you for your help guys. @Sokol I am going to use x35 as a throttle with additional ps3 thumbstick but I am not going to use x36. For the joystick I am making franken mod. CH Flighstick base/gimbal and Logitech Wingman Attack handle. Why 4th axis? X,Y,Rudder and 4th axis is the oryginal CH Flightstick throttle. Its already there so why not to use it, perhaps one day it will come handy. Btw. Has anyone tried to mod CH or Saitek pots (x,y axis)into halls keeping the trim function? Cheers
Last edited by triggahappy; 07/27/16 08:15 PM.
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#4282493 - 07/27/16 09:07 PM
Re: MMJoy - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
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Posts: 3,955
Sokol1
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TLE501x "CS" is the "axis" output and need goes for one of six ADC (axis) input available in PRO Micro.
wrong, "CS" goes to any unused pin (there is no dependencies with internal ADC). What I call "ADC" is pins F5, F6, F7, F8... they don't can be used as input for "CS" for TLE501x as in this case they are not used for "Internal ACD"? I say "ADC" pins labels because this scheme: http://s16.postimg.org/fw3kh4s9h/PROMicro.jpgBtw. Has anyone tried to mod CH or Saitek pots (x,y axis)into halls keeping the trim function? In Debolesis CH Combatstick - pictures in this thread - he maintain the mechanical trim, but the Bi-Tech 6127 HALL sensor used have similar format to original pot's. Anyway this mechanical trim has not much use, they still in CH stick as legacy of DOS era, as all in this joystick is from 1990 decade of the last century. In CH-Hangar their guru Bob Church don't advise use this trim under Windows. Today even in R/C transmitter, from where this kind of trim was copied, use "digital" trim.
Last edited by Sokol1; 07/27/16 09:22 PM.
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#4282539 - 07/28/16 01:10 AM
Re: MMJoy - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
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Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 15
triggahappy
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I think that is the old layout of pins that we could not change. We had to use pins F4 F5 F6 F7 B5 B6 as ADC. But now in newer ver of mmjoy2 we can choose the pins. I dont think I will ever use trim but if I was to use allegro 1324 instead of tle501x than I could mod CH pot into bic-hall and use trim mechanism for fine tuning the position of hall sensor and magnets.... I think it should work. Bi-Tech 6127 HALL - nice sensor but bloody expensive Btw this is the franken joystick that one day will work There is your 4th axis and the big silver button will be replaced with 2 5-way switches acting as povs and other switches but I have not decided yet what where and how as I am waiting for more parts.
Last edited by triggahappy; 07/28/16 01:16 AM.
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Exodus
by RedOneAlpha. 04/18/24 05:46 PM
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