I'll add new information as it becomes available to me...
Pro Tip: anytime you try ANYTHING, do it on a new layer!
Naming Convention Here's OVStachel with a tip on skin naming that may save you some aggravation later on:
Originally Posted by OvStachel
This is actually correct.
For a skin, use the format...
Off_(aircraft type)_ace_t_(squadron) (year)_(your pilot name)
ex: Off_Alb_DIII_OAW_ace_t_Jasta 3 1917_Otto von_Stachel (you don't need the under score for your skin.. but I do it anyway.
Here's some more info on naming:
Originally Posted by jerbear
Hi Becker - 1- go upper left on Gimp to File > On drop down choose "Save as" > put in your file name and leave it as .xcf file > Save it in your documents file. This is only a backup and has nothing to do with export or converting to DDS. 2- go back to File > choose "Export as" on dropdown > enter you file name but change it to a bmp file. Example: Fokker DVII.bmp. > There is a dropdown list on the bottom of your export window that will say " "All export images" choose the dropdown that says "Windows BMP image (bmp) make sure you have bmp in your file name not xcf. > choose desktop as you file destination on the left side of the window.
3 - Hit the "EXPORT" button and another window will appear that asks is you want compatability options or advanced options > choose advanced options > you will be given three options 16, 24 or 32 bits > choose 24 bits and then click on "EXPORT" this will send the bmp file to your desktop.
4 - now open your DXTbmp app. in the upper left clock file then open, this will show you all the images on your desk top. > click on the bmp image you sent to desktop, then open, it will appear on DXTbmp.
5- again go to file and choose "save as" this will give you a drop down that will have DDS Texture along with some other options > click DDS texture > the file name will be on this new window but you will not see your image > change the image name so you will not confuse your new DDS image it with the bmp that is alerady on your desktop. > click on "save" and it will send the DDS image to your desktop. 6 - from the desktop you can cut the DDS image and paste it into you picture file or wherever else you want it. > you must now name the image in the correct WOFF code such as off_Fokker_DVII_ace_t_Jasta 13 1918_Hans_Butthead. 7- I usually make a copy before cutting the DDS and pasteing it in the WOFF skin folder. You can, of course put the image directly into the skin folder from desktop but I like the extra step.
This procedure should give you a DDS file of the correct size. I know it looks like a lot of step but it is very easy and becomes second nature and intuitive after a few times.
Holler if you have trouble and I or someone smarter will get back to you.
Fullofit offered up some useful tips for using GIMP:
Originally Posted by Fullofit
Here are some tips/shortcuts for GIMP. You can zoom in and out by using the "+" and "-" keys on the keypad. I find it faster than selecting and switching the mode from the menu. For the part where you were cutting out the background behind the cupcake you can press the "Delete" key instead of edit/cut from the right-click menu. When scaling the cupcake, you can use the "scale tool" from the long toolbox on the left side. This will give you a preview of the object as you scale it, instead of guessing by typing in the scale value. Finally, when duplicating the cupcake, I suggest to duplicate layer. This way you will avoid accidentally moving the first cupcake, like it happened in the "fast forward" sequence. You can also move the second cupcake directly down by pressing the directional arrow keys - should help with precise positioning.
I decided I wanted to come up with a new paint scheme for Rick Rawlings flying the N17.
I wanted an alternating red/black pattern on the cowl, but had no idea how to divide it. So I added some color swatches to help define where things were going to be:
I was then able to use the ruler in GIMP to come up with a cowl that works pretty well:
You'll notice that despite my measuring it, the bars are still not evenly spaced:
For more on that, see Olham's tip below!
Then I decided I did not like the basic white body paint and wanted to do something different. I figured gray would be cool, so I painted (on a new layer, natch!) the body gray:
Yikes! That looks terrible! But, by using the Layer properties and layer opacity (circled in orange above), I can get some cool effects. Multiply produced this:
Nice! But I decided to go with Subtract:
That gives it a nice cool charcoal appearance that looks like this in game:
You can raid other skins and cut and paste them into the one you are working on. Here's a brilliant Albatros by RAF Louvert:
And here is his explanation of how he got the upper wing to work:
Originally Posted by RAF_Louvert
OK Rick, here goes. Just remember you asked.
In order to keep all the subtle wing detail and texture I chose not to do the stripes as an opaque overlay but rather as a colored layer of the existing top wing found in the WOFF Alb skins. To do this I first grabbed a clip of the red top wing surface from MvR�s Alb found in the �WOFF� skins folder. Using copies of this clip I then changed the hue and the intensity to achieve the yellow and blue I wanted for this project, placing the yellow layer on top of the blue layer.
Next, working in a transparent layer, on top of the yellow layer, I snapped the edges of the diagonals using 2-pixel-wide lines in the same average color as the blue layer beneath. I laid out these lines for the portside first then duplicated the layer and flipped it horizontally in order to have a mirrored layout. I then made minor adjustments to both of these layers until the point of the center inverted �V� was exactly in the middle of the wing and slightly back from the leading edge. After this I merged the two layer together, saved a copy of the merged layer for the �just in case� scenario, and then merged the �lines� layer onto the yellow layer. At this point I had a yellow top wing with narrow blue diagonal lines on it.
Now comes the magic. Using the �wand� tool, I highlighted the areas that I did not want yellow in this layer and simply deleted them. Viola! You have a top wing that has alternating blue and yellow diagonal stripes and you still have all the subtle details and textures. BTW, I did the 2-pixel-wide lines in blue so that any tiny bits left behind by the �wand� tool would not be seen as they would match the blue layer beneath.
I then added another transparent layer to snap the narrow black dividing lines between the colors. A few adjustments to color intensity and the top wing stripes were done, or so I thought until I took a test run in the sim and found all the wrap distortions on the wing. At this point all a person can do is either scrap the idea altogether or start making minor adjustments until the distortions are nullified. I went with the latter option as I am a glutton for punishment.
I should mention that the crosses and aileron hinges were laid on top of the finished wing in their own layers so that I could fine tune the placement of these items.
A lot of work indeed, but outstanding results. Here's how the texture looked in the .dds file:
You'll notice there are some places that are offset. This is because the model is not perfectly smooth, so there is some distortion. You could play around with it for a bit, or you could try Olham's idea:
Originally Posted by Olham
A tip for those who are getting desperate with distortions: if you can work with layers, you could copy milimeter- or math paper from a web pic, and put it on the wings and fuselage. Either half transparent, or, if you can't do that, you must cut it so, that you still recognise enough of the underlying skin parts.
Over that layer, you work out your paint job. Now make a DDS-file from that, go into WOFF and make screenshots from all angles. Make corrections and repeat that proceedure. When everything is fine, switch off the math layer or delete it. That may help you to aligne the stripes correctly (although with my "Quillfish" Alb I gave up at some point and thought "What the hell...!")
So, if you took Olham's advice, you could find a pattern on line like this:
If you put that as a texture over your basic Nieuport skin, you would get this:
Interesting, but if you drop the opacity and change the layers properties, you get this:
These should help you line up some of the peculiar bumps and protrusions of your 3D model overlaid by a 2D skin... then just delete the grid layer when you are done!
Here, Cavaliere57 talks about selecting and changing colors directly, and uses Photoshop to do so:
Originally Posted by Cavaliere57
Rick asked me to explain a couple of things after i published my Camel skin, in the screenshot thread, here we go. I use Photoshop CS6 64bit,but it applies with most all versions of Photoshop,except probably those prior to the CS series but only because something has changed in the Tools menu,basically they relocated something here and there.
Here is the basic Camel skin from which to start
starting from the background layer (the only one present at this point)select the upper wings and elevator surfaces
now with Ctrl-V copy the selection,and then Ctrl-C to paste it as a new layer,rename it as you wish,I use parts names
as you can see we have a new layer with only upper wings/elevator surfaces ( I have disabled the background layer to have a better view of it)
with the new layer active,from Selection menu,reselect again
from the Image menu,select the Substitute Color Tool
from the Substitute Color mask,clicking on the upper thumbnail,activate the color picker
point it to the brown on the wing
you now have a working color selection to work from,move the slider to the right to catch all the brown hues
now moving the lower sliders,get the color you aim for,desaturate always a bit and do not brighten too much,instead go for darker shades
now go again and select the lower wing/elevator surfaces,on a new layer, and chenge their color as well
we now have Green wings and light azure lower surfaces
From the Background layer,using the Lasso Tool instead of the previous Rectangular Selection Tool,select the lower fuselage section,as always Ctrl-C and Ctrl-V to paste as a new layer,name it and go changin' the color again,but this time keep active the lower wings layer,so to match colors
repeat the process with the rudders
we now have a Camel with green body/wings and azure lower surfaces,and five more layers
starting always from Background layer,select (wit Round Selection Tool) the wheel,and repeat all the process
Now select with Rectangul selection Tool,the engine cowling,copy and paste as new layer,rename it,and create stripes like these,with the Rectangular selection tool,and color them as the fuselage
et voila,our Camel is nearly ready to go
Let's add an emblem and some text
save as .dds directly from Photoshop
and here we are!!
Sometimes layers can save you in a different way... Here's the Amerispad skin I was working on for my latest challenge:
I spent quite a bit of time working on it and liked the basic idea, but when I looked at it in game, I was getting this:
It's not terrible, but it's just a bit too garish, too primary colors... Now I could go back and re-tune all the color layers, but I asked myself what I wanted to accomplish, and I decided I just wanted to take it down a notch, just de-saturate a bit on the added colors. So I created a new layer and put a bit of tan over the other colors:
Then by dropping the opacity of the new layer waaaaaay down, I got this:
In game, that looks like this:
which was much closer to what I wanted in the first place. Using a couple of layers like this, you could add progressive grime as you plane ages, if you want the ultimate realism, which that flag skin certainly isn't!
Nietzsche just revealed a fantastic new camel skin:
Here's how he did it:
Originally Posted by Nietzsche
Well, I use the Gimp. First Thing I do is, "cutting out" everything and turning the Parts into different Layers (makes future Modifications more easy). Then I turn all of it into a Grey "Color" of the same Brightness. If I want to add a little Depth here and there, I play around with Color-Curves. Then I rebrush everything, that I don't want (Stripes, Numbers etc.). Next, I multiply the Layers and tint them. After that, one can use different "Eraser-Rubbers" to get a Pattern, or one can sharply cut out Areas for Stripes or so. When finished, I combine all the Color-Layers and use a fuzzy Brush to erase some of the Color, so it gets grey again - looks like the Paint-Job is peeling off here and there. In the End, you can finish your Texture "by Hand" with a bit extra Mud, or Ornaments or whatever you like. If you want good Camo-Colors, use light Versions of Brown, Green and Yellow, fade away most of the Color and add a Bit of Blue into them. I hope, that helped a little.
Here's more Nietzsche goodness!
Originally Posted by Nietzsche
Okay, I've tried to make a Tutorial about Layers and Transparency for the Gimp. I hope, that I managed to make it understandable for those, who are relatively new to the Gimp as well (that was my focus)
Originally Posted by Olham
I have researched the German Lozenge camouflage a bit (mostly at [b][color:#000099]THE AERODROME[/color][/b] website). I also saw Lozenge fabric on a Halberstadt tailplane in the BERLINER TECHNIKMUSEUM, and took a photo.
From what I have found, I have then made 5-colour and 4-colour Lozenge fabric for both, upper and lower surfaces. Lozenge camo was screen-printed on endless panels of canvas with a width of ca. 4.5 feet (if I remember that correct).
My 'panels' here are layed out horizontally, but on an aircaft wing they were used "vertically", or better: in flight-direction. Everyone can copy and use my Lozenge camo for their own skins - enjoy the skinning!
Last edited by Rick_Rawlings; 11/20/1903:32 AM.
The older I get, the more I realize I don't need to be Han, Luke or Leia. I'm just happy to be rebel scum...
I need some help, please. I'm wanting to paste a purple heart onto the fuselage of my Pfalz, but all the .jpg files I find on the internet are hearts on a white or black background. The Pfalz fuselage is gray.
In gimp, is there a way to "lift" the heart off its white background and paste it onto the fuselage. The way I've tried so far, with mixed results, is to paste the the .jpg onto the fuselage as a new layer, then try to erase the white part around the heart. This is tedious and difficult. Thus, I'm hoping that there is a much easier way to accomplish this.
Thanks for any advice or suggestions.
I7firstname.lastname@example.org GHZ 16 GB RAM GTX 2080 8 GB VRAM 2 x 1 TB SSD 32" Dell S3220DGF curved gaming monitor @ 2560 x 1440p @ 165 Hz Sound BlasterX G6 External USB sound card Beyerdynamic DT 770 Pro Headphones Thrustmaster TM16000 FCS HOTAS Logitec Pro Flight Pedals TrackIR 5
Slick, once you paste your heart in as a new layer, use the "magic wand" tool which looks, well, kind of like a magic wand! It is up by the lasso looking tool at the top of your tool dock. Touch the white area once and that should select all the white. Then right click and cut and it should be gone, with maybe some minimal erasure cleanup after. Let me know if that works or makes sense...
The older I get, the more I realize I don't need to be Han, Luke or Leia. I'm just happy to be rebel scum...
gaw, if you have more than one layer, make sure the layer you want to work on is the activated one. Otherwise you cannot work on it's content.
If you have inserted a JPEG or whatever, and want to delete the white surrounding your object: - highlight the layer in the "layers" menue - select the white with the "magic wand", and delete it with "delete"
It is also possible in Photoshop to open a JPEG or other picture, unlock the layer in the "layers" menue (which puts the image over a transparent background now), and then select and delete the white. The image you now have - let's say a purple heart over a transparent background - can be saved as a GIF format. A GIF allows transparency.
Now you could always copy and paste that Purple Heart GIF into any skin works, and it should show no white surrounding.
Vice-President of the BOC (Barmy OFFers Club) Member of the 'Albatros Aviators Club' - "We know how to die with Style!"
I searched every file in the WOFF directory with no luck.Its no big deal as I just wanted to rotate the compass so that when I look at it I do not have to do the calculating in my noggin of where its actually pointing.