Does this help?

https://github.com/MMjoy/mmjoy_en

https://github.com/MMjoy/mmjoy_en/wiki

Maybe

I'll give it a go, I may need it to be a bit more "for dummies" but we shall see.

Thanks!

Not sure I'd call it a Dummies page, and I am no Electronics expert but did a FLCS/TQS/Pro Pedals conversion about 5 yrs ago, that thread is over here :

https://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324940/1

KB.

Thanks!

Set the "MMjoy2" has two parts,

1 - Flash the firmware in the Arduino, what created a blank joystick template, called "MMJoyReset"
2 -Fill this 'MMjoyReset" template with MMJoySetup as your wishes, e.g. how many axes - up to 8 (Windows/games limit), how many buttons - up to 128 (some games see only 32) - for use 128 require use Shift Register circuit to overcome Arduino pins limitation.

Here in the IL-2:46 SAS forum the guy explain well the part two.


https://www.sas1946.com/main/index.php?topic=58176.24

BTW - Your joystick don't need use only he "MMJoy2" name, can be what you want, not sure if the 10 characters limitation remain. Can change in the right upper part of MMJoySetup.
And, changing de VID & PID numbers - default 8888, for lower or high number, you define the order that Windows/games will se your new joystick relatively to other joysticks.

Use DXDiag for see the VID & PID for existent joysticks - these are in hexadecimal numbers,

But when setting your new joystick on MMJoySetup can use plain numbers for VID & PID, e.g. 11111 for make this joystick to be the first for Windows/games and 9999 for make the last, o leave the default 8888.

Detail, if change this numbers, always unplug and plug the Arduino again.
And if after want change again, clear the previous name and VID & PID from Windows Register (Regedit) or the Windows Games Controller report an error, although the stick work OK for games.

Now back to your question, what pins use for teste one button?
Any pin market BR in this Arduino PRO Micro scheme (assuming that you are using Arduino PRO Micro).



Notice, the number that you select in MMJoySetup - you need set two for have a 1x1 matrix and use one button; is the hexadecimal number in the picture, not the number in the Arduino labels.

And, as explained in the link above, you need define the logical button - H/W.Button correspondente to the "Joystick" in the right lower side of MMJoySetup, at first use 1 =1

Hi guys, I have a pro micro Atmega on which I had installed the mmjoy2 firmware, is there a way to remove the firmware and restore the original one?
Thanks in advance

Hi.
Does please anyone know how the Thrustmaster Warthog/ F 16/ F 18 grip communicates with a PC?
Is it possible to connect somehow the grip directly to a PC, or is additional electronics in the base needed ?
Is it possible to connect grip via MMJoy2?
I am considering the possibility of connecting the Thrustmaster F 16 or CH Products Combat Stick with the Microsoft FFB 2 base and I am looking for options.
Thank you.

TM Grips contain 3 shift registers type 4021. They are easy to use with mmjoy. Look in the program folder - in the subfolder pictures you find the pinout of the 5pin mini-din plug TM uses. SCK goes to B1 (on the pro micro), CS and Data are set in the mmjoy interface and VCC and GND are just that - power and ground. The CH sticks are different - they use a button matrix and i do not know their pinout.

Hi, thank you for your reply.
There is a lot of information on this forum and on the DCS forum, so much that I was not sure of the correct answer.
And I don't want to spend money on things that won't work, of course.
About CH Products I know I would have to make a couple of SR inside sticks.
And while TM is so easy to connect with MMJoy2, it seems easier to buy direct TM.
Thank you once again.

PS: By the way, MMJoy2 is really great software. Making your HID gaming device so easy is great.
Thanks also for MMJoy2 guys.

Richi

Yes use the Arduino IDE Software to reflash the Bootloader

KB

The FLCS F16 Stick is fairly easy to do, have a look here ....... if you don't Solder , I can sell you this one as I now have 2

https://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324054/1

KB

Hello!

It's been a loong time and my english is not good enough....


Il'm trying to make olukelo gimbal. I'm truing to find KMA210 hall sensor but no in stock... So I used MLX90333 (Cjmcu.-93 module) ne for each axis.

It's work well with my teensy 2.0++ and MMJOY

[img]https://rehost.diberie.com/Picture/Get/t/78109[/img]
[img]https://rehost.diberie.com/Picture/Get/t/78110[/img]

But I don't undertstand the choice for auto with or saved with center... I know I must use center for X,Y axis but i must save or no?

[img]https://rehost.diberie.com/Picture/Get/t/78111[/img]

Another issue, the center point is not exactly the same when joystick go to center's position. VKB tester show that:
[img]https://rehost.diberie.com/Picture/Get/r/78113[/img]
How can I improve that?

Last question : MLX90333 datasheet indicate the sensor is "12bits in analog output" so I don't need MCP3208 ADC ?
[img]https://rehost.diberie.com/Picture/Get/r/78114[/img]

And the last last one question :

I manage magnet to the north is near the sensor but I just see in datasheet this:
[img]https://rehost.diberie.com/Picture/Get/r/78115[/img]

The sensor work with the "south"?

Thank you very much!!!

Difference between auto and saved: auto means the device will be automatically calibrated every time you move the axes to their ends and must be moved every time you unplug and plug back in. Saved means your device has these values stored (use the calibration helper, move to the ends and write to device) and is ready to go right after plugging in. It may help with your second problem - the offset.

If saved values do not solve this try a deadzone (a zone around the center where your device does not output changes) of 5-10 points. Magnetic sensors can be sensitive enough to sense even your heartbeat, so they can show even the slightest offset in the mechanism - nothing man made is precise enough to return to an exact position without a measurable mismatch.

Third point: the mlx chip may use 12 bit internally but is outputting in analogue and the arduino family can only use analogue values in 10 bit - if thats not enough, use an adc.

Fourth point: If it work, it works - no problem?

Hope this helps, have fun and good luck!

Dear sim enthusiasts,

I am writing in a desperate attempt to resolve the issues I am having with creating a simple collective angle sensor using the Arduino Pro Micro and a TLE5011 with MMJoy2. No buttons, no shift registers, just the lonely 5011. I followed advice in this and various other forums regarding the connection of the sensor to the board and the recommended use of discrete components. To briefly summarise, the board resembles the one shown here.

In essence, the connections are as follows:

TLE5011 Pin 1 (CLK) -> AT32U4 Pin 10 [B6]/GEN

TLE5011 Pin 2 (SCK) -> AT32U4 Pin 15 [B1]/SCK

TLE5011 Pin 3 (CS) -> AT32U4 Pin A2 [F5]

TLE5011 Pin 4 (DATA) -> AT32U4 Pin 14 [B3]/MISO

TLE5011 Pin 5, 7, 8-> AT32U4 Pin GND (all GND pins shorted together)

TLE5011 Pin 6 -> AT32U4 Pin VCC

The Pro Micro firmware was flashed using MMJoy2 V20161101 as instructed here.
Any attempts at re-flashing the firmware were done after completely clearing out the sets. All flashes appeared to complete successfully and registered appropriately.

The Source and MCU port were set to TLE5011 and F5 respectively, as instructed on the GitHub link here, to match the physical hardware and board connections.

With these settings, I am getting between 150 and 200 link errors and absolutely no values being read by the sensor. Please see attached image showing my MMJoy configuration.

I referred to the “Link errors” paragraph mentioned on the GitHub page but there was no specific information relating to how to troubleshoot the errors or what they actually are.

Multimeter con. checked and paths and connections confirmed to be correct as per diagrams.

I tried using various precisions, calibration methods, filter settings and assignments.

I tried using the MMSensor CLOCK set to the 5011/AT32U4 clock [B1] and tried it without anything set.

I re-flashed and used other versions of MMJoy (20160818 and 20161125) – no joy.

I used the 6mm diametric magnet as well as my existing Virpil WarBRD one.

I tried rearranging the connections of CS and CLK and made the respective changes in MMJoy and tried all of the above again. No (MM)joy.

I have an electrical and software background, but I must admit that I am hopelessly lost with this and would really appreciate any help with this!

Okay guyz i am working MMJOY for years now and it is great.The problem i have is the board from the arduino pro micro. All time is break, there are so sensitive. [img]https://ibb.co/fqDz6CV[/img]

I see that we can use the arduino micro.Searching today on alliexpress i found those here:
-1 Pro Micro
The type-C and the mini-USB i believe the are better.(But a little expensive). I know this can work with mmjoy it is ATmega32U4 5V 16MHz.

2- Pro Micro 328p
Those here are working with MMjoy? I want the Micro USB with ATMEGA328P.

No, ATMEGA328 is not supported in MMjoy2 firmware.

Only: ATMEGA32u4, ST90USB646, ST90USB1286 m/c - all 16 MHZ, 5V.


For avoid broken off the USB connector imobilize the cable:

See attached, have I screwed up anywhere (everywhere) or would this give me 25 on/off switches and two axis?

Hi Guys,

I get this error:



when I connect my mmjoy joystick to my win 10.

I have used this mmjoy for a very long time with no error at all,
now suddenly it happens all the time.

the strange thing is:
I have 2 windows installed on this same computer: win10 and win7.
and there is no error at all when I connect this mmjoy to my win7.

what is so different about win10?
why is there no error under win7, but there is error under win10?

So how do on/off switches work in MMJoy? A press and release is straightforward, but what if you activate an on/off switch (push button/toggle) and it in remains in the on position? Does the software recognize this as one "key press" and then ignore it until released? Does it not matter at all? In my head I am envisioning this being like holding a keyboard key down constantly.... am I right/wrong?

Thanks!

If you use a ON-OFF latching toggle or press switch, the button will remain ON - like press and hold a keyboard key; until turn OFF, but for modern games this don't matter.

But you can make the OF-OFF switch behave like real one.

Let's assume that one ON-OFF latching toggle switch is wired to MMjoy button #10 position - this is the "H/W button" ~ "hardware button" that need to be translate into a DirectX button to be visible for Windows/Games.

The basic configuration of this 1 = 1, 2 = 2... but can be more elaborated, example:



In the MMJoySetup - the firmware configurador; was defined that when the button #10 (H/W button) is turned ON will press the (Joystick) DirectX button number 1 and when turned OFF will press the (Joystick) DirectX button number 2.

Of course the game need to be coded the use a ley/button for turn ON something - e.g. cockpit lights, and another for turn OFF.

Some games, e.g IL-2: Great Battles have most of their commands for use the same key or button for do both things, by press once for ON, press again for OFF - like a keyboard; what don't fit for ON-OF latching toggle switches.

Exist a firmware for Arduino in what the DirectX button is only pressed briefly when the ON state of an ON-OFF switch is engaged, and again briefly when changed for OFF.

Is the Lynx Cub Firmware - but is only for button boxes, panels, don't handle analog or digital axes.

http://lynx.dk/cub-firmware/