Hello mates,

I've got a problem my seven year old X-52's (2005-2006 Model) Trigger is failing.

To be precise only the stage 1 of the Trigger is failing, at times it works at other times it doesn't want to function.
When I pull the trigger into stage one, sometimes it doesn't react at all. On other times it works, but quite often it "flickers" with the "Trigger" wording in the MFD going on and off.
The flickering can only be a milisecond.
I also noticed, that the farther I pull the stage one back the more likely it is to happen.

If the stage 1 is pulled back almost to the beginning of the second stage, it will switch off.
If I release the Trigger and pull it back into the first stage again, it will not work.
Only after releasing it a second time it will work.

I'll probably have to replace it in the next two months, but until then I'm searching for a way to get that trigger fixed.

Any Ideas as to what the reason might be?
The soldering? Cables?

As for drivers, I use Windows 7 64-bit Pro with the 6.6.6.9 SST and SD6 (Driver Version 6.0.4.1 according to Windows) from Februrary 2013.

Anything might be helpful.

Wolf

Have you opened the stick? There is 2 small metal "strips" that are compressed when you pull the trigger (and then the strip compresses a little button, like the ones you find below mouse buttons), one is set up higher than the other (so the 2nd stage is activated only after the 1st).

I had a problem where the 1st stage activated almost simultaneously with the 2nd stage. I opened the stick and bent the aforementioned 1st stage "metal strip" to get it farther from the 1st stage button, that solved the problem.

Maybe you should look if the "base" of the strip is correctly pressing the "button", try to bent the strip a little and see what happens...

I hope the lack of images (didn't find any on google) don't make it look more complex than it really is.

Probable the micro switch, similar to this (cost cents).

http://www.superdroidrobots.com/images/TE-044-000.jpg

You need open the grip - careful to dont breake wires - to identify the correct model.
I dont find X-52 internal pictures, but this give you a idea:

http://www.petervis.com/modern-gadgets/L...ck_Switches.gif

To replace is need know how to solder wires.

Sokol1

Thanks to both of you!

I've been looking into it, I took it apart for the second time.

Edit:I'll try both ways, well could it be the spring in the rod that pushes the first stage?
I've thought about replacing it, but even though it looks like an ordinary ball pen spring it is shorter and smaller.


As for soldering, it has been a while, but I think I can do it. I'll do a few dry runs before I solder those.

Just one thing about soldering wire, is pre-tin (applying solder to both the wire and the contact) or heating the wire melt the solder on it?
I've heard varying accounts so far, I learned to heat the wire/contacts.
With the Exception of the transistor's "feet"!

The type of the trigger is
DM1 LR (the LR is written mirror-style)
1A 125VAC.

I've got a few pictures (cropped), the uploading site is abload.de, a pretty reliable site.



The lower one is the First stage trigger.

Same here


This one shows the type of Trigger. Oh and look at the blue wire.
I'm a beginner in soldering, but I don't like the way that cable is soldered on!

Higher Resolution pics are here:
http://www.mediafire.com/download/3dkc4lnr7ktd7w4/X-52_Trigger.7z


Edit2: Bending the trigger arm fixes it insofar as the trigger is sending the Trigger Pushed information now.
But it keeps sending it, even though the trigger is released.
I need to push agains the triger from below to release it.
I'll need to tweak it a bit more, though it seems like a temporary fix.

A rapid test, take a length or wire or a metal surface and make contact between switch pins (wheres go red and blue wire)
and observe if (logical) switch retain ON like happen now.

For solder:

Apply solder individually on wires and on switch legs first, after join two and apply heat.

Sokol1

That would seem to indicate that you bent it too far. Go partway back toward where it was pre-bend. Hopefully, you can experiment with it, and get it right by trial and error, without having to fully reassemble the stick. If you go that route, be careful as your stick will be energized while it is still opened up. You don't want to fry something, (like your computer's 5 V power supply).

Thanks Cyberkut, I rebent it and it works again.

I for working I just unplugged the Stick w and replugged it (open) for testing.
I never work on live hardware, to risk far outweighs the gains in my view.
Well, I'm kind of old-fashioned that way.
Have ever been that way, since I saw a so called "a computer expert" plug in a power cable on a mini-IDE cable adapter.
Which triggered the circuit breakers in the whole house and sent the PSU for an early retirement.
The Trigger works again.

@Sokol1 thanks I will keep that testing trick in mind.
BTW do you know what type of switch that trigger is?
I'll get myself a few of those, just in case the trigger really fails this time.
Oh and thanks for the soldering tipp.

Glad to see that you're back in action!

*places a dagger at a necromancers throat and says: You revive that thread!"*

@Cy Berkut Thanks.
But it seems it was just a temporary fix, rebending fixe it, but that does not work forever.

Does anybody know the exact type of the switch used?
All I have been able to deduce so far was "DM1 RV (flipped R) 1A 125AC" and that it acts as a interrupter/circuit braker.
Well a 1 Ampere 125 Volts (?) Alternating current switch?

This one is the closest I could find:
http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/70473...ef=searchDetail

So far my local electronic shop has only got short arm switches, not the long arm that we need here.