Read and re-read the specs, am I right in assuming that the only difference between the 2 is the lack of analog control and the POV switch on the BBI32 ?

So if all I'm looking for are switch input, then the BBI32 is the better deal?

Correct

In fact, the major difference is the BBI32 support for up to 11 rotary switch, that means 132 inputs.

Sokol1

That part I don't quite understand it says it suports 32 buttons or switches, but then it says 11 rotary switches (12 positions each) . How does that work?

This may help
http://www.leobodnar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=3921

"You can connect 11 rotary switches each using 12 positions for a combined total of 132 button inputs. Every 12 position switch is allocated 12 buttons, so for example, if you connect the first 12 pos switch to B1, buttons 1 to 12 are allocated. If you were then to connect the next 12 pos switch to input 2, buttons 13 to 25 are allocated and so on. Even if you connected one 12 pos to B1 and then another to say B3, you would still have the 12 buttons allocated to 1 to 12 and 13 to 25 because they follow on as the next available 'slot'.

The 12 pos switches can only be connected to the first 11 inputs, however, in the BBI Config software you can choose the first position you want the first 12 pos switch to start from. This means you can have a mixture of 12 pos switches, push buttons, encoders etc without any overlapping."

SAPPER,

I think that is possible due the use of moddified rotary switch, that only need two wires to conect and a special firmware. Bodnar provide a software to mape these rotary switch.

Sokol1

Hmm, I think that's incorrect, based on the research done by someone else on mycockpit.org who played with it and the modified 12pos 2-wires switch, it seems that the specs on Bodnar's website are confusing and misleading.
Apparently, the board supports up to 32 buttons/inputs and THAT'S IT!


Read this: http://www.mycockpit.org/forums/general-...html#post135503

Would it be possible to create a matrix out of it the same its done with the BU board and multiply the inputs though?

I think the issue is in how MS Windows handles controllers. Its windows that has the limitation of 32 buttons per controller SO I'm thinking that Leo's BB when using those 12 switches needs software to make it work like a keyboard OR in splitting the physical controller into multiple virtual controllers. Meaning you can not just hook it up direct with those 11 rotary switches totaling 132 buttons and have it work as a single controller.

Not s guru with this stuff but have the BB on order and have been reading a little, so I may be confused and all wrong, but for me I was not going to use the BB with that many switches.

You can read the switches through a resistor network as if each rotary was a single analog channel, and then handle the values via software. That would mean a custom driver and "just" 11 analog channels. that's also why it would be limited to rotary switches rather than independent buttons.

Good to know.

I decided to go with a Teensy++ 2.0...

For 24$, it's simply the best solution that currently exist on the market for a HID board.
Totally programmable, 46 i/o pins, 8 analog pins, 9 PWM pins and totally compatible with Arduino sketches using the Teensyduino plugin.

Simply unbelievable!

I have the Teensy++2.0 in my Mechpit, works great. The ability to create custom profiles for the board (and it extremely low comparative price) is what sold it for me.

To be honest, I was a long time Bodnar user and still have two of them in my rollout simpit (at my desk) but I really doubt I will ever buy one again when I can customize my Teensy so easily.

Does anyone know how to wire up illuminated toggle switches to a BBI-32?

I'm presuming that because of the +5v connector that a DPST switch isn't required?

I can either have the switch working, the illumination working but not both together as it shorts the connection. Part of the problem is that I don't know how the BBI-32 pcb is linked together and there is no information or support anymore (forums closed). I can see that the ground is common throughout the board, but can't work out how to wire up the switch to enable the LED and the switch position to both [ON] at the same time.