It screams for some subtle weathering... maybe ground graphite to indicate engine smoke streaks?

Good Job and u learned ( and me too about Mold Switching ) from this Model and the guys in the forum.. U can always try a little weathering and Washes ( with water colors or Pastels) to cover errors For example, a Glue blemish , Un even paint line. What I had a problem with was Paint bleeding thru the tape. Finally I found a great tape. Now, a piece of cake. thanks for sharing .

Agreed nice job BR If I may ask what type of glue did you use on the clear parts?

Thanks.

Normal Revell glue. I did buy some that was specific for clear parts - but it just came in a bottle and I didn't really have an elegant way of putting it on. On top of that it didn't seem to be very sticky.

I'm up for suggestions on a glue that's easy to apply that's specifically for clear window sections...because my sausage like finger always seem to smear the glue on the model or the windows...regardless of how careful I try to be

I dont know where I saw it ( maybe U tube on building plastic models) but some people just dip the surface or use a small brush for clear parts in Future floor wax. It acts as a glue and keeps the plastic clear.

This is what I use. It bonds strong, dries clear, will fill small gaps or depressions, makes great instrument glass and with practice you can even make small windows or viewing ports. See those small window ports on your B-17F fuselage BR? I would make my own using this product. When done it's very transparent (like a pane of glass) and can be done after the kit is painted. And if you get any excess on the clear parts you can use a small brush to push it into a seam (like around a window) or just wick it off, it dries clear so you will never see something like a smear.



And if your really frugal (and really old school ) you can use this product with a small paintbrush, works almost as well. But unlike the product above it will yellow after 4 or 5 years.

nice looking bird Billy, part of a great collection!

Cheers
Craig

I have used Elmer's Glue all before not all that bad.

I agree carrick, it was my mainstay for installing kit glass for years.

i use this stuff on my RC glazed components, the stuff is great bud, would be perfect for your needs as well i should think.


Craig

Thanks very much for the tips on glue. I had no idea there were so many options out there!

She's nearly done.

Things left to do
1) Fit bomb bay doors
2) Fit a couple of small antenna pieces
3) Put on insignia
4) Apply weathering solution

I've applied some "weathering effects" of my own. I *think* it was ok - but may have gone a little overboard...and hence possibly spoiled the look slightly

Basically
1) Some "silvering" on the wing edges, round the canopy and on the props
2) Some matt black trails from the exhausts on the top and underneath of the wings

I just put some paint on a brush (aluminium and black) and rubbed off just about all of it until I barely had any left on, then brushed it on. Each try left only a little bit on and so I built it up. Like I said though...I may have got a bit carried away. First time trying it really.

I also have some Flory Dark Dirt Weathering Wash which I think I'll also apply. Worried that I may spoil it though...although they do say just use a wet cloth and it all comes off.

Anyway - some pics - the next ones I'll post will probably be next week and will be complete.

Ah Its coming along nicely BR

Almost finished. A couple of antennae to paint...

I'm not sure what to do about the water marks - they are actually from the Micro Set and Micro Sol - any ideas why it happened? Was it because I didn't put Klear on first and put it straight on enamel paint?

I may put Klear on and then weather it...I've nothing to lose now anyway.

You got it BR. You must clear (gloss) coat your models before you apply decals and use MicroSol and MicroSet. After that is done you then can spray Dull Coat to get that flat paint look back.

Bugger.

Oh well - I'll try and remember that next time