Dears

After several attempts and studying the behavior of the Hall sensor and various mechanisms ( gimbals ) that do not get a resolution and good performance in the reading of the magnetic field of super- magnets, I decided to finally " sought a solution to the joystick Suncom F15 .



The original metal box kept the stability of the expense of a "guide and a plastic spring covers . " I wanted to work together within the shell but it was impossible because the neodymium magnet acted as a brake and locking through the set . I thought of an entirely plastic, including the bottom plate , which worked on but still went through and any rotation of 5 ° (degrees ) generated in the sensor reading errors .
Then I thought of using the magnetic force that would pull together ( like a spring ) providing stability and sliding through " ferrous metal plate "at the bottom of the enclosure. In physics , a bar system has greater stability when clipped by the edges , with one side of the spherical head coupled to the joy and the other magnet metal plate supported in the system was stable , loyal in the sensor reading and Compact.

DOC - DocFlyer























































Now dig this excellent joystick buying or making a circuit board as BU0836A and other good resolution.
Hope this helps and good flights .

Att DOC - DocFlyer

Nice work, and nice pictures! How is the linearity of the response in this sort of arrangement? Nice to see more people experimenting with hall sensors on DIY setups. Next step is stripping a cheap electronic scale of its strain gauges and make a force sensing stick out of it

Great work DocFlyer!
I noticed the Cougar board in there too - I've thought about doing the same thing, but I can't bring myself to sacrifice mine, and I doubt anyone has a spare board for it.

Thanks Brandan and Gopher

The linearity is very good. I would be very happy if they can leave a message on GAVCA.COM, even in English, because the group is very friendly. You will find more information.
They can post here.
F-15 Suncom Solution 100 % - Hall Sensor

Since images of original topic is no longer available (Imageshack), an PDF version of this tutorial (in English) is available there:

EDIT - (file renewed - 08/2020)

https://www.gavca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=19411&start=90#p178988

Direct link for download (ZIP): https://www.gavca.com/phpBB3/download/file.php?id=219

Alternative link (08/2020): http://www.mediafire.com/file/jumf822jcwvgbci/Suncom_F15__HALL__sensor__by__Doc_Flyer%2528En%2529.zip/file

It seems the file is unavaible. Is there any chance that you post it again?

Gavca forum suffer a crash and lost files and now disabled file sharing, an alternative link in Mediafire:

http://www.mediafire.com/file/jumf8...nsor__by__Doc_Flyer%2528En%2529.zip/file

http://www.mediafire.com/file/jumf822jcwvgbci/Suncom_F15__HALL__sensor__by__Doc_Flyer%2528En%2529.zip/file

Hi guys,

I've just completed conversion with 95A hall sensors and mcp3208 converter, but I have a few issues and was hoping you might help me.


My biggest issue is that the joystick doesn't return to center. Depending on the direction it was previously pushed, it will slightly stick to that side (edit: not the stick itself, but the value from the hall sensor).
I didn't use the shielded cable, and now I'm thinking this might have been an error. Would shielded cable correct this behaviour? If so, I'm just wondering if I can use a wire mesh as ground wire? As, for example, in stereo audio cable...

The other issue I have is that the joystick physically sticks. Large movements are ok, but when applying low pressure, it sort of jumps instead of moving smoothly. I lubricated acetate pieces with graphite spray. I had good experiences with it and in test with acetate I felt it gives very good and smooth results. Would a different type of lubricant produce better results?
However, I feel that the real problem is that the plastic carrier with the magnets tries to rotate slightly when being moved up or down. Could it be that the magnetic force pulling it towards the piece of metal in the back is not strong enough? Should I try to use thicker metal plate? Or maybe it's too strong and that is way it sticks???


Many thanks in advance!!

Edit:

I think I've finished the conversion and I'm very satisfied with the result. In case this might be helpful to someone, here's what I did:

Initially I had a metal plate over the sensor and inside the plastic "fork" that holds casing for potentiometer. This created a lot of pressure on the side of the casing and impeded the free movement of the magnet. After removing those plates, the magnets moved much more freely, but sometimes they would still "stick". It seems every time I reassembled the joystick I would have different behavior. My best result was free stickless movement in all directions except negative Y.

After testing without the back plate I realized the sides are still the problem. Maybe I could've trimmed acetate plates placed on the sides (maybe they were fraction of a milimeter too long), but after testing without them I couldn't see any disadvantage so I left them out. Now I have a very smooth and precise movement. There is a slight problem with joystick not centering properly, but I added a small amount of deadzone in DCS (5 to be exact) which took care of this. And the deadzone is so small that I can't even notice it.

If anyone has any questions, I'd be glad to help if I can.

Many thanks to DocFlyer and Sokol for putting this guide together!!