Hi All,
At the risk of flooding the forum with my recent posts, here is a new work in progress.

This is kind of a special build. Whilst my Sea Harrier build was going on one of the members here contacted me to offer the not insignificant gift of a bunch of 1/32 kits he was not going to be able to build. I don't have space to display all but the smallest 1/32 subjects, so reluctantly declined, and I thought it rude to pick and choose. However, RSColonel_131st disagreed and very kindly (and I mean VERY kindly) sent me the smallest subjects, namely Wing Nut Wings' 1/32 Pfalz D.IIIa and Sopwith Pup as a gift.

Wing Nut Wings kits have become instant classics, superbly researched, engineered and presented. (I've seen them described as 'coffee table' kits!) The company was set up by Peter Jackson, of Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit fame. He is apparently a WWI aviation 'geek' and established WNW to make the model kits he felt were being overlooked. I've seen a few, but they are way out of my comfort zone (representing wood and installing rigging being a 'black art' for me).

So I was very excited to get this chance to build a couple, and I have to say the kits don't disappoint. I've been an aviation nut since I was a small boy (over 45 years) and consider my self knowledgeable about all periods of aircraft history, but I've already learned an enormous amount about these early designs from this shallowest of toe dips in the subject.

I was so excited about this build I started it during 'lulls' in the SHAR build, so the next photos are a 'catch up'.

Box shot




WNW kits don't need many addons, but I can't help myself, so we have:

HGW Models seat harness and buckles (also Bob's Buckles turn buckles and anchors, plus about 250 metres of Maxima Chameleon 2lb fishing line - more of this later, when I can bring myself to contemplate fitting it!)





Gas Patch Models replacement Spandaus. Fromt he shape I assume these are VERY high resolution 3D prints. Just amazing.





The instruction manual is a minor work of art. You could build a totally creditable model from these directions and all the supporting references supplied within.





I've also got HGW Models photo etch set, and Gas Patch Models anemometer to mount on the port wing strut. (I need to dig out my macro lens to photograph this, it's stunning.)

Here is the engine. I've not gone to town on this as it will be mostly hidden. I'm trying to take better WIP photos (and failing so far) so apologies for lack of sharpness until I get the hang of it.








This the engine bearer and frame it will mount in. I'm properly pleased with the wood effect, courtesy of True-Earth's wood effect sets. (I've had a go at this the conventional oil paint way before, but this looks much better, and doesn't take a week to dry!)




Here is the start of the cockpit area. I believe the framework is wooden, with a primer over it, and a natural wood floor.





As always, thanks for looking in, more soon,

Gareth

Looking forward to the build.

This might help,

Cheers K. Looks interesting.

The fuselage is made up of wooden planking moulded to shape over a former. I think the outside is then skinned in plywood. Here is the wood effect for the inner.




The interior is largely complete. Super detail from the box, and fits is superb. I've added the control wires running back from the stick and rudder pedals, but they'll be lost to sight when the fuselage is closed up.

Some of the interior before the fuselage sides come together.













Here you can see the 'leather' cushion I've added to the seat. Looks OK when hidden by the belts!







Thanks for looking in,
Gareth

Amazing detail on the kit. Nice to see the ammo cans.

Was the the wooden slat lines already done or did you make them ?

The lines are part of the moulding.

This is so amazing. I really hope you find a way to leave of a section of the hull... Such detail never to be seen again would be an utter shame.

I agree with RSColonel. I would consider doing a portion of it with a cutaway so some of that interior is visible.

I have thought a lot about dong a cutaway, I hate losing detail, but I think it's too big a risk. With a light you can see back behind the seat, and I might be able to leave off the cylinder head fairing to show more of the engine. I really want to get this one right, and I still have to master rigging, so I think it's for a project further down the line.

I'm going to use the Bob's Buckles method. ( (Explained here....) Not exactly to scale, but very convincing, and relatively simple. Here is a shot of the anchor points, and some of the turnbuckles. The anchor points will be trimmed and fixed in to the wings, or fuselage, at relevant points. The turnbuckles are 0.5mm outside diameter, and 0.3 inside diameter. I have to guide 0.12 fishing line through the turnbuckle, through the eye in the anchor, and then back through the turnbuckle, before gluing.




The internals are complete, and guns installed.




Dry fitted. The leather padding around the cockpit opening is just roughed in. I need to look at simulating leather again before it's finished.





And, as promised, HGW Models' anemometer. A simply stunning piece of moulding / printing. This will go out on the port wing struts.




(Does the USB work as a universal indicator of size? I thought of using a coin, but given the international nature of SimHQ couldn't think of one everyone would be familiar with. )

I'm enjoying this build very much, learning lots about aircraft design, history and a few new techniques.

Cheers,
Gareth

Why not use a ruler with cm/mm instead?

Awesome work as usual! Do you work with some sort of magnifying glass or loupe (spell check?)??

Well cm/mm would require conversion for us in one of the two countries using the imperial system.

-Jenrick

You used to be a watchmaker, right?

Amazing. Utterly amazing.

Once again, I am out of superlatives.

Another work of art in progress.

I wish!

Progress is slow this afternoon, because the last time I went to my local model shop (I'm very lucky to still have one) I forgot Tamiya XF-19, needed to mix the overall colour silver/ grey colour. This kind of halted progress, so I decided to confront the problem of rigging for the first time. It turns out its not impossible! This is the port aileron, showing the control line attached. This is EZ Line Lycra (I think) thread, thinner than the line I need to use for the actual rigging, but it proves it can be done. It took about 15 minutes, I daren't think how many more I need to make! (After Ice's reply I remembered I have a metric / imperial rule, so a better representation of size.)

Now you are just showing off to piss me off.

Thanks for including a ruler in that picture! So are you using some sort of magnifying glass/desk light or a loupe?

I made parts smaller than those used in mechanical watches for years and I wouldn't begin to attempt working on these kits.


Wheels

Got the guns painted. Amazing printing / moulding by Gas Patch Models.



Also, the blue is on the upper surfaces of the wings, and main part of the fuselage. This is the top of the upper wing. I've used preshading to put dome lowlights/ highlights around the wing ribs, and the areas the linen was stretched over the internal structure. I used a Humbrol colour for this, outside my established 'comfort zone' but it looks to be effective. Being a matt colour I had to apply 4 or 5 good, wet coats of Pledge floor polish to get a gloss finish. This will both allow me to apply the decals without 'silvering' and protect the colour from the considerable handling that's coming when I start, *gulp*, rigging. (It also smells lovely!)

Hi Gang,
I've made my first attempts at rigging. Here are the tail control surfaces. I've done these with EZ Line elastic, so I can deflect the controls a little and stretch it to the 'holes' they exit from the fuselage. This way tension will be easy to achieve.

Rudder








Elevator




My first go at 'proper' rigging on the undercarriage struts. The guide I found suggests starting with about 2 feet of line, which seems extravagant. However, it does make it a lot easier, and there's a quarter of a kilometre wrapped around the spool, so let's push the boat out! These could be a little tighter, but as a first go it will pass, and I know what I'm doing for the rest of the model now. SNEAKY EDIT: I corrected the undercarriage cables. They should cross over rather than run straight down as they did.




I've also got the main colours on, I'll get a picture of that for the next entry.

EDIT: all the photos working fine here but I've reposted the links.

Thanks for looking in,
Gareth

I cannot see your pictures from today, get a small square and [Linked Image]
The rest show up fine and are great.