#4405897 - 02/18/18 04:24 PM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Kb1rd1]
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Polish
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Well if you don't explain I can't Help , personally I never liked the Nub it was too hard to used accurately so I wasn't concerned about using a POV Hat to replace it from another Old Joystick. I got lucky last year a found a 2nd FLCS//TQS/Pro Throttle/CH Pro Pedals for $75 and an X-Fighter, so I got them for Spares and Parts as the CH stuff is supposed to have good Pots and Hats etc to reuse and I prefer the X-Fighter Base. Forgot to say the TLE5010 are available again if you want some? http://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.p...uild-your-own-usb-controller#Post4404152KB Sorry for such a late reply! Work gets in the way of the important stuff! Yeah I went back and through everything and think it's a nub for sure which is dead. I got a little lucky and found a tqs/F22 combo with the swf22 chips so I now haven a working set! That stick was broken (metal inside gymbal is busted/snapped but I might be able to fix) and the tqs is missing the t2-3-4-5 knob which I'm going to try and track down. My goal now is to have two working sticks. One will be usb like yours but using an atmega28 and the other will be serial using the swf22. I'll most likely use your guide for a lot of references! On a side note, i did look at the swf chips in a pic reader, they DO have the copy protection bit enabled so it looks like short of Bob coming out of retirement to release his source code, the remaing chips in circulation are all that will ever be. The pic is a microchip pic16c65a if anyone has any insight.
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#4405934 - 02/18/18 06:30 PM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Kb1rd1]
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Kb1rd1
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Hi P. I guess you aren't using MMJoy2 then for the Digital Stick ? it requires a Micro/ProMicro/Leonardo ie atmega32 at 16mhz/5v ( not the 3.3v/8mhz version) , or a couple of different Teensy's work too.
https://github.com/MMjoy/mmjoy_en/wiki/Controllers-(compatible-base-boards)
@Sokol1 would be the guy to ask about fixing broken Gimbals
BUT you could try and find a Gameport TM X-Fighter Stick and use it's base and gimbal as I did on my FLCS...needs a slight Mod to the handle in the Clamp area but that was all. I used the HAT/POV in the TQS to replace the NUB too.
Last edited by Kbird; 02/18/18 06:31 PM.
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#4406012 - 02/18/18 11:24 PM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Kb1rd1]
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Sokol1
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Kbird, You two are talking about the same thing in different "languages". Polish are working in set a F22+TQS through gameport like are used in 1990's, why he need that "mouse" in TQS - I hate that thing, never work well, at time I replace the erase head version of F22PRO TQS with a DIY HAT an the think work using the same connection of the "mouse" - in fact a pressure transducer. You are working in make a 1990's HOTAS work in a modern way, through USB. About F22PRO gimbal broken a viable alternative is Debolestis 3D printed gimbal with bearings developed for Cougar, but with some adaptation fit in F-22PRO base. https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=3100793&postcount=244
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#4406015 - 02/18/18 11:47 PM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Sokol1]
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Kb1rd1
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Kbird, You two are talking about the same thing in different "languages". Polish are working in set a F22+TQS through gameport like are used in 1990's, why he need that "mouse" in TQS - I hate that thing, never work well, at time I replace the erase head version of F22PRO TQS with a DIY HAT an the think work using the same connection of the "mouse" - in fact a pressure transducer. You are working in make a 1990's HOTAS work in a modern way, through USB. About F22PRO gimbal broken a viable alternative is Debolestis 3D printed gimbal with bearings developed for Cougar, but with some adaptation fit in F-22PRO base. https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=3100793&postcount=244@Polish now has two F22 and TQS's, one will be old School >Gameport with Stickworks Chips, for an old computer and the Other is going to be upgraded to USB , though not MMjoy2 if using a Atmega28. My 1st set is Finished but I haven't started the 2nd set , I ordered a few more TLE5010 Sets but they won't ship till late feb. due to the Chinese New Year at the moment. KB.
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#4406070 - 02/19/18 04:10 AM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Kb1rd1]
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Kb1rd1
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Hi , as long as they are the 16mhz/5volt version then you are good Don't put the Gimbal near Heat , especially a Forge until you do so research as the "metal" is very poor quality and it may make it even worse , if you can find a X-Fighter on Ebay $20-25? it is an easy fix , just move the Handle over and rewire as needed. Have you Opened the TopGun sticks? and looked , they were very similar to the X-Fighter Stick IIRC ? ( not the current X-Flight) that I have and they have a nice stiff Gimbal , stiffer than the FLCS, so I switched it over. https://www.terapeak.com/worth/rare...ontroller-vintage-computer/302200152336/ Make a mold perhaps of your existing one and use epoxy , or JB Weld etc perhaps but I think Deblotisis made some 3D Buttons etc too on ShapeWays didn't he?
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#4410756 - 03/15/18 06:48 PM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Kb1rd1]
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Polish
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Hi , as long as they are the 16mhz/5volt version then you are good Make a mold perhaps of your existing one and use epoxy , or JB Weld etc perhaps but I think Deblotisis made some 3D Buttons etc too on ShapeWays didn't he? Well - epoxy is setting and the pro micro works great - for the joystick. No diodes required. Everything there is working except for waiting for the expoxy to set. I'm now fighting with the TQS though. It is wired up and MM2Joy shows the ant and rng pots working wonderfully - but none of my buttons work. I did clip the tiny silver wire and rewired for the pots but somewhere I still can't figure it out. A little more research. I plan to help this project a little by posting my photos/notes for both when I get done - especially with the pro micro having different pin names (non standard) - for a true novice it'll shave off time if they try to build. Back to learning!
Last edited by Polish; 03/15/18 06:49 PM.
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#4410771 - 03/15/18 07:24 PM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Kb1rd1]
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,955
Sokol1
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Make a mold perhaps of your existing one and use epoxy , or JB Weld etc perhaps but I think Deblotisis made some 3D Buttons etc too on ShapeWays didn't he?
But make a mold for reproduce a bad design gimbal? Debolestis 3D version is an "clone" of UberNXT, praised at time (early 2000's) as the best replacement gimbal for Cougar - who came with an gimbal worse than F-22PRO.
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#4410782 - 03/15/18 07:57 PM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Sokol1]
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Kb1rd1
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Make a mold perhaps of your existing one and use epoxy , or JB Weld etc perhaps but I think Deblotisis made some 3D Buttons etc too on ShapeWays didn't he?
But make a mold for reproduce a bad design gimbal? Debolestis 3D version is an "clone" of UberNXT, praised at time (early 2000's) as the best replacement gimbal for Cougar - who came with an gimbal worse than F-22PRO. Any thoughts on the missing button for the tqs? 3d print maybe?Polish was asking about replacing a Missing TQS Radio Button from a 2nd hand TQS he got on Ebay , so I suggested molding one from his Other TQS to replace it it with Epoxy or JB Weld (Metal Epoxy). I think he also has a bad Gimbal too though...
Last edited by Kbird; 03/15/18 08:00 PM.
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#4410783 - 03/15/18 08:02 PM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Polish]
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Kb1rd1
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Hi , as long as they are the 16mhz/5volt version then you are good Make a mold perhaps of your existing one and use epoxy , or JB Weld etc perhaps but I think Deblotisis made some 3D Buttons etc too on ShapeWays didn't he? Well - epoxy is setting and the pro micro works great - for the joystick. No diodes required. Everything there is working except for waiting for the expoxy to set. I'm now fighting with the TQS though. It is wired up and MM2Joy shows the ant and rng pots working wonderfully - but none of my buttons work. I did clip the tiny silver wire and rewired for the pots but somewhere I still can't figure it out. A little more research. I plan to help this project a little by posting my photos/notes for both when I get done - especially with the pro micro having different pin names (non standard) - for a true novice it'll shave off time if they try to build. Back to learning! I assume you ran Power back into the TQS Handle too? I used the Green Wire off the no longer need Nub for that , and extended it over to the Range Switch etc , they are all linked... Also Did you assign the Buttons in MMJoy2?
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#4410784 - 03/15/18 08:04 PM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Kb1rd1]
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Kb1rd1
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Hi I just wanted to see if anyone else Ordered any TLE5010 from the AliExpress Site above : and if you have received anything yet? I placed an Order over a month ago now , and although the Seller has made a Shipping Label ( Feb21 ) after 1st telling me they were away for Chinese New Year until the 20th , nothing has actually shipped yet. I made another inquiry March 7th and was told by the Seller , production had been put off due to a Blind Date ???? must of been some bad date....I am not sure whether to Laugh or cry at this point, last time I Ordered from them, I got them exactly 3 weeks after placing the Order and it is now nearly 6 weeks and no indication of anything even Shipping , I'm starting to think it is a Scam and I should File a Dispute with AliExpress. Seller's Email --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi KB, produce This one Module technician, At home Blind date, put off produce, very sorry. best regards Tammy ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by Kbird; 03/15/18 08:05 PM.
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#4410790 - 03/15/18 08:49 PM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Kb1rd1]
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Joined: Jan 2018
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Polish
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Make a mold perhaps of your existing one and use epoxy , or JB Weld etc perhaps but I think Deblotisis made some 3D Buttons etc too on ShapeWays didn't he?
But make a mold for reproduce a bad design gimbal? Debolestis 3D version is an "clone" of UberNXT, praised at time (early 2000's) as the best replacement gimbal for Cougar - who came with an gimbal worse than F-22PRO. Maybe one day - going to try an epoxy the gimbal together first. [/quote] Polish was asking about replacing a Missing TQS Radio Button from a 2nd hand TQS he got on Ebay , so I suggested molding one from his Other TQS to replace it it with Epoxy or JB Weld (Metal Epoxy). I think he also has a bad Gimbal too though... [/quote] Yeah - I haven't worked too much on the missing knob yet - but it IS I have issues with both (broken gimbal - missing knob) I assume you ran Power back into the TQS Handle too? I used the Green Wire off the no longer need Nub for that , and extended it over to the Range Switch etc , they are all linked...
Also Did you assign the Buttons in MMJoy2?
I'm using Solder Monkeys's Post Here #4382882 on page 9 for the TQS. I moved everything and do have the green wire ran up for VCC 5v+ tied into the pot. I think my issue Might be the button setup. I'm doing exactly as he did without worring about diodes right now. I'm assuming that on the pro micro my pins for A0 need to be the row and columns need to be (for example) pro micro pin #2 = B5 on the column, pin #3 = B4 and so on using B(x) D(x) E(x). My X and Y for the pots show up perfectly - can make nice sinewaves playing around in the tester. It is just the buttons do NOT exist. I currently have the buttons set up like THIS image Could the issue be that I NEED diodes (unlike what page 9 post advises?) in order for my buttons to show up? I started a new TQS conversion this weekend. Before I started messing with the grip, i made sure to write down how thrustmaster connected stuff.
Remove the bare cheater wire on the RANGE pot/switch. Move the Blue/Yellow wires from the left side of the RANGE pot to the left side of the RANGE Switch Move the brown jumper wire from the left side of the RANGE switch to the left side of the RANGE pot Add a single wire from +5V to the left side of the RANGE pot. Blue 6 becomes the Ground. The Brown wires will then pass +5v and Gnd to the ANT pot.
That direct connection setup gives you 10 switches in 10 Columns and 1 Row and no need for diodes.
Its that or I have no idea how to wire my micro board. I figure the wire for (2nd yellow) which is stated as "Return Line for Switches - Yellow" - I'm using that on the A0/F7 Pin. I've also tried it on a few other pins but it doesn't seem to work at all.
Last edited by Polish; 03/15/18 10:15 PM. Reason: MORE INFO
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#4410812 - 03/15/18 10:44 PM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Kb1rd1]
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Polish
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Well 1st off , assuming you don't have a RDDR connect to the TQS? you have 1 Axis missing , should be 3.... X,Y,Z. ............. 6 with the RDDR using Toe Brakes.
Yeah - I haven't hooked up the Z yet - that will be my last hookup. Let me Read SM's Post again ,and get back to you later , I didn't use this Method ......
I'm doing the same and reading the FULL thread - would really like to become an expert on this - I enjoy joystick building now that this has inspired me (I'm a glutton for punishment haha) if no buttons are seen in MMJoy2 I would suspect 1.) a Power or Ground Issue ( correct pins on ProMicro?) 2.) Your Rows and Columns are backwards ? Assuming all wiring is done in the handle, ie the jumpers between Switches etc
I've gone over the internal wiring over and over- I'm 99% positive its right - with regard to backwards (I tried it forward and backward) for the row/column - I think that is a possibility but I've tried it both ways. I think I'm using the WRONG pins for the row/columns - doing reading on this now. Power and grounds are as good as they can be (electrically solid to pins - multimeter checked). I'm wondering if that 2nd yellow is the key. Z
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#4410842 - 03/16/18 01:01 AM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Kb1rd1]
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Polish
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I have Updated the Attached Files , plus added a few that may help....
KB.
You are awesome! Thank you KB! It was the switched yellow (which I knew there was 2 but I've been working on this all day - 2nd set of "eyes" helped!). The extra image showing AI pins helped!. Looks like I only have a ghosting issue on one button, I'll probably add diodes, but I wanted to make sure this all worked first. Time to add the Z axis! THANK YOU! I'll do my write up on my next day off - I work the next 4 days. Z
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#4410843 - 03/16/18 01:12 AM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Kb1rd1]
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Kb1rd1
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Good News glad it turned out to be easy No rush on the Write Up but it would be great to add more Info here , cos apparently my Write Up only helps so far especially since you did Your's differently ...and much more simply , I may do my 2nd TQS your way for a more TM "Original" Feel since I likely won't use the 31 Buttons On my 1st TQS anyway , it was more of an Electronics "learning experience" ***PDFs works well if you can. KB
Last edited by Kbird; 03/16/18 01:15 AM.
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#4410847 - 03/16/18 01:42 AM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Kb1rd1]
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Polish
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Good News glad it turned out to be easy No rush on the Write Up but it would be great to add more Info here , cos apparently my Write Up only helps so far especially since you did Your's differently ...and much more simply , I may do my 2nd TQS your way for a more TM "Original" Feel since I likely won't use the 31 Buttons On my 1st TQS anyway , it was more of an Electronics "learning experience" ***PDFs works well if you can. KB Absolutely - I wanted to get a digital setup first - then move on to addons - more switches - shift registers. I'll upload a PDF for sure.
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#4410981 - 03/16/18 03:46 PM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Kb1rd1]
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Sokol1
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Polish was asking about replacing a Missing TQS Radio Button from a 2nd hand TQS he got on Ebay , so I suggested molding one from his Other TQS to replace it it with Epoxy or JB Weld (Metal Epoxy).
Oops. Seems I confuse apple with oranges, I am focused in the broken gimbal. If he have another QTS, the the mold make sense, I see some reproductions (for sim purpose) of plane buttons made in Acrylic resign. If not, just ask Debolestis in ED forum, he have most of this old stuff and can draw the button and put in Shapeways for 3DPrint, he charge only 1 dollar per piece, the remaining cost is Shapeways service.
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CD WOFF
by Britisheh. 03/28/24 08:05 PM
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