Modding the T.16000m
I got inspiration, ideas and how to's from these places:
https://forums.robertsspaceindustries.com/discussion/294901/the-great-t16000m-button-modThe switch PCB is shown in picture 6.
Everything on the T.16000m has the same ground and that is the solderspot connected with the big areas on the Switch PCB. So no need to scratch off the covering on the PCB.
To avoid conflict with the twist action, I ran the pinky wires at the back of the handle, as shown in the Thrustmaster T16000 Switch Mod Part 2 video.
Thrustmaster T16000 Switch Mod Part 1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wz40sGSX8SA&t=517sThrustmaster T16000 Switch Mod Part 2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81eB3JvJ39k&t=1sThis shows the switchpoints on the controller PCB and also the Pinky switch wirering.
http://mwomercs.com/forums/topic/135323-fousts-mechpit-rev-3/Spring mod for the t.16000m. (I have not done this, but include it here for reference.)
Comparison:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZ0DnG25jP4How to:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5NsEpDkFvdU&t=177sIf you are going to follow this, then please read through all of it, because I made mistakes and I do mention them on the way.
First I took everything apart.
I created 2 bundles of thin wires (From the Guillimot Ferrari Wheel) holding them together with pieces heatshrink tubing. I made this into 1 bundle, with more pieces of heatshrink tubing.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dantdbv/33156731274/in/album-72157682523156245/If you wish to use all of the buttons on the base, for switches on the handle, you will need 13 wires including the common ground.
I threaded the bundle into the pipe with the rest of the wires. Leaving a fair length of wires, dangling out of each end, I reattached the twist sensor top of the pipe, with a little contact glue.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dantdbv/33187171453/in/album-72157682523156245/I was not carefull enough, when I reattached the magnet, at the bottom of the pipe. I managed to snap the blue wire to the handle PCB. After replacing it I managed to snap it together.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dantdbv/34000054815/in/album-72157682523156245/My biggest challenge was soldering wires, to the switchpoints on the controller PCB. I managed to shortcircuit all 6 of them while presoldering. I was lucky to have desoldering braid and a knife to fix it.
Having fought with that I decided to solder the rest of the wires, to the soldering points on the switch PCB. Everything on the T.16000m has the same ground and that is the solderspot connected with the big areas on the Switch PCB. So no need to scratch off the covering on the PCB.
After confirming that I didn't have any shortcircuits I reassembled the base.
After some experimentation I decided upon what switches to use and how.
2 stage trigger:
In the Ferrari Wheel I found a tac switch, that needs more force to activate, than the trigger switch on the handle PCB. (The 2 switches used for the gear up/down shifters.)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dantdbv/33156743554/in/album-72157682523156245/I removed excess material on the trigger swivel, to make room for the switch. Cut off 2 of the legs on the switch, soldered on the wires, glued the switch to the swivel with contactglue and hotglued it for strenght.
Then I shortened 1 part of trigger spring and remounted the trigger swivel.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dantdbv/33958552156/in/album-72157682523156245/The Pointy finger switch:
I drilled a hole for the switch and then used a bigger drill, to make room for the switch in the handle, then hotglued the switch in place and soldered on the wires.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dantdbv/33614552230/in/album-72157682523156245/I had used to much hotglue and had to cut out, some of it to get room for the PCB. I also had to cut off part of one of the solderterminals and bend it, to make room for the hat assembly on the PCB.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dantdbv/34000026175/in/album-72157682523156245/The Pinky switch:
Another 6x6mm tac switch from the Ferrari Wheel. This time a longer one.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dantdbv/33614562900/in/album-72157682523156245/Found out where I wanted it, drilled a hole, Cut off 2 of the switch legs, secured it in place with a little hotglue. Then I poured on more hotglue to keep it in place and attached the wires.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dantdbv/33614539400/in/album-72157682523156245/https://www.flickr.com/photos/dantdbv/33187155973/in/album-72157682523156245/Be carefull with hotglue and wires in the the twist action area.
It was only on my third attempt, having cut groves for the wires, at the back of the handle, that I succeeded.
Assembly time:
I left off the 3 buttons on top, as they can be pushed in, after the handle is assembled. I did however secure the little rubberthingies, to the buttons with some contact glue.
Needed to cut off even more hotglue, to be able to reattach the button, on the Pointy finger switch side.
I was fighting with the wires, until I pushed most of them into the same compartment and jammed them in real good. Then they stayed put.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dantdbv/33958552156/in/album-72157682523156245/If you can push the handleparts together without forcing them, you are on the right track.
Then I reattached the screws without overtightening them.
I finnished by putting in the buttons on top.
I am very happy that everything worked, the first time I plugged the stick into the USB port.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dantdbv/33870267641/in/album-72157682523156245/Next step:
Add 1 5 way tact switch to thumb rest Wirering prepared
Add 1 5 way tact switch where the middle button is Wirering prepared
Replace 2 handle buttons with capped 6x6mm tactile switches
The last handle button will be transferred to one of the 5 way tact switches.
I am waiting for these swiches from China.
I hope that this is usefull for somebody.
Happy simming
