Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate This Thread
Hop To
Page 72 of 112 1 2 70 71 72 73 74 111 112
#4354561 - 04/30/17 11:50 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller ***** [Re: Sokol1]  
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 63
erichos Offline
Junior Member
erichos  Offline
Junior Member

Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 63
Slovakia
Sorry Kbird, I was very busy last weeks. So magnets, I used diametrically magnetized magnets of course.
Look at this:
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Epoxy glue:
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

You can use axially magnetized magnets, but like this (it is with hall sensor but the same principle with TLE5011):

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Inline advert (2nd and 3rd post)

#4354591 - 04/30/17 04:21 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: erichos]  
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 454
Kb1rd1 Offline
Member
Kb1rd1  Offline
Member

Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 454
Originally Posted by erichos
Sorry Kbird, I was very busy last weeks. So magnets, I used diametrically magnetized magnets of course.
Look at this:
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Epoxy glue:
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

You can use axially magnetized magnets, but like this (it is with hall sensor but the same principle with TLE5011):

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


No problem , hopefully you have time to relax a bit now it is Sunday smile Thanks for the pics those magnets with the holes would of made things easier for me but I used the ends off a couple of Pens to get over the Pin on the end of the Shaft. I cut my magnets off , as I had mounted them like @Penzija (he must have different magnets than i was supplied) and remounted them flat like you yesterday and the TLE5010's seem to be working properly finally smile . I found I had a bad connection, not a dead TLE5010 after all and in MMjoy the TLE5010's calibrated easily and I saved the centers with no problems , even the reverse spike I was getting is gone thankfully.

I am still wondering what the best north/south alignment for the magnet is though , or does it matter ? In the image below I currently have the magnets mounted like C.)(a) but I now think perhaps they should be mounted like A.) with N/S vertical along the Sensor. My TLE5010 PCB's are mounted with the + Pin on the Board UP , looking at the bottom of the FLCS while I work on it (upside down in a small bucket) if it matters ...see images.

Any ideas why my Shift Register PCB may not be working correctly once I connect it to the FLCS ? Is there anyway to test the '165 SR Chips to see if they are OK ?

Did you make your Own Rudders ? is that is what the Hall Sensor is in ? interesting as I don't really like my CH Pro Pedals , the Pedals are too close together and the action is not the greatest even after I modded them....

Thanks again

KB

.


Attached Files TLE Alignment_ (3).jpgTLE Alignment_ (2).jpgTLE Alignment_ (1).jpg
Last edited by Kbird; 04/30/17 04:26 PM.

My FLCS+TQS Conversion here on SimHQ

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324940/1
#4354625 - 04/30/17 08:51 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Kb1rd1]  
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 63
erichos Offline
Junior Member
erichos  Offline
Junior Member

Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 63
Slovakia
Originally Posted by Kbird

I am still wondering what the best north/south alignment for the magnet is though , or does it matter ? In the image below I currently have the magnets mounted like C.)(a) but I now think perhaps they should be mounted like A.) with N/S vertical along the Sensor. My TLE5010 PCB's are mounted with the + Pin on the Board UP , looking at the bottom of the FLCS while I work on it (upside down in a small bucket) if it matters ...see images.

The best is C) but usually doesn`t matter different position because you need only +/- 20-30 degrees not 360. Example A) is the worst and B) is usually OK for joystick. When calibrating problem occurs, set "Magnet offset". It is software offset allignment.

Originally Posted by Kbird

Any ideas why my Shift Register PCB may not be working correctly once I connect it to the FLCS ? Is there anyway to test the '165 SR Chips to see if they are OK ?

I had a problem with this PCB:
[Linked Image]

During testing with short wires was everything OK but inside joystick with longer wires problems started. I found out that this PCB was modified against original PCB from first versions of MMJoy2. Only 1 resistor is missing. I added it and board is working.
[Linked Image]

Cut the copper route where I marked you RED lines and then add SMD resistor (10kOhm or 1kOhm) where is BLUE mark. But I am not sure what is problem in your case. Sorry I didn`t read all your reports. Can you summarize for me? :-)

Originally Posted by Kbird

Did you make your Own Rudders ? is that is what the Hall Sensor is in ? interesting as I don't really like my CH Pro Pedals , the Pedals are too close together and the action is not the greatest even after I modded them....
Thanks again
KB


Yes, my home made rudders:
http://s29.photobucket.com/user/erichos/slideshow/Rudder

And at the end one thing - when you have many long wires and want to decrease electromagnetic interference it is appropriate to twist wires together (like plait). Not all together but from 1 sensor TLE5011 all 6 wires together, from one ShReg together...
Look at my boards:
[Linked Image]


Last edited by erichos; 04/30/17 09:21 PM.
#4354647 - 04/30/17 10:36 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: erichos]  
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 454
Kb1rd1 Offline
Member
Kb1rd1  Offline
Member

Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 454

Thanks for the information about the missing Resistor , perhaps I will try that , as It sounds like a similar issue .

1st I made the PCB on a BeardBoard with 1P12T switch and some tac switches as a test ,and it worked fine in MMJoy once you told me how to set the Button Mode to Switch On and the Timer to 100ms. So then I made a small PCB out of a dbl sided snappable Prototyping PCB (from BPS - the SB4) but I only used 2 '165 SR chips in 16 pin sockets as I only needed 16 extra buttons (not 24) on my FLCS. I then used solid core hookup wire to copy the traces on the back side and installed 10k and 0k resistors and Pins on the front side and it works fine in MMjoy too , (just like the BreadBoard version) , all 16 switches are seen in MMjoy as expected.

But when I connect it into the FLCS , either all 16 buttons disappear, 8 buttons disappear , or 8 buttons disappear and the other 8 flash on and off as I turn the Rotary switch..... almost like ghosting with no diodes but you shouldn't need them with a Shift Register, correct?. Perhaps I have bad or spiking power ? and should try other connection points or do you think it is the same issue you had and I need to add a 10k resistor like in your image ?

copy and pasted from my other post:

SCK is connected into a Common wire with the TLE5010 Boards' SCK and the Handle's 4021-S.R. PCB SCK
PWR is common to the Pots and Switches etc
GND is common to the Pots and Switches etc
DATA is to F1 (assumed any PIN is OK or do I need a Digital Side Pin on the Leo? eg D4) ***Note DATA is also called MISO and that connecting the TLE5010 and Handle Miso/Data wires together (common) did not work -- the buttons disappeared
CS is to F0 (assumed any PIN is OK or do I need a Digital Side Pin on the Leo? eg D4)

The images are here : http://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.p...uild-your-own-usb-controller#Post4354517

Nice Rudders , did you machine all the Aluminum by Hand and press the bearings etc or was it a Kit you got ?

Thanks,

KB.

.


My FLCS+TQS Conversion here on SimHQ

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324940/1
#4354661 - 04/30/17 11:43 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: erichos]  
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 454
Kb1rd1 Offline
Member
Kb1rd1  Offline
Member

Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 454
Originally Posted by erichos
Originally Posted by Kbird

I am still wondering what the best north/south alignment for the magnet is though , or does it matter ? In the image below I currently have the magnets mounted like C.)(a) but I now think perhaps they should be mounted like A.) with N/S vertical along the Sensor. My TLE5010 PCB's are mounted with the + Pin on the Board UP , looking at the bottom of the FLCS while I work on it (upside down in a small bucket) if it matters ...see images.

The best is C) but usually doesn`t matter different position because you need only +/- 20-30 degrees not 360. Example A) is the worst and B) is usually OK for joystick. When calibrating problem occurs, set "Magnet offset". It is software offset allignment.

Originally Posted by Kbird

Any ideas why my Shift Register PCB may not be working correctly once I connect it to the FLCS ? Is there anyway to test the '165 SR Chips to see if they are OK ?

I had a problem with this PCB:
[Linked Image]

During testing with short wires was everything OK but inside joystick with longer wires problems started. I found out that this PCB was modified against original PCB from first versions of MMJoy2. Only 1 resistor is missing. I added it and board is working.
[Linked Image]

Cut the copper route where I marked you RED lines and then add SMD resistor (10kOhm or 1kOhm) where is BLUE mark. But I am not sure what is problem in your case. Sorry I didn`t read all your reports. Can you summarize for me? :-)

Originally Posted by Kbird

Did you make your Own Rudders ? is that is what the Hall Sensor is in ? interesting as I don't really like my CH Pro Pedals , the Pedals are too close together and the action is not the greatest even after I modded them....
Thanks again
KB


Yes, my home made rudders:
http://s29.photobucket.com/user/erichos/slideshow/Rudder

And at the end one thing - when you have many long wires and want to decrease electromagnetic interference it is appropriate to twist wires together (like plait). Not all together but from 1 sensor TLE5011 all 6 wires together, from one ShReg together...
Look at my boards:
[Linked Image]




After looking at your "Repaired" PCB Image I decided to look at older versions of the PCB files included with different Firmwares' and found that on early versions of the PCB there is a Resistor on the DATA (MOSI) connection , I am not sure why it was not on later versions of the PCB or if it was a mistake? as I don't know electronics , but the designs in the 2015-11-18 Firmware PCB folder show the Resistor too and there is even a .layout for 8 bit (1 chip) and 16bit (2 chip) DIP 74HC165 Chip Boards.

They are easier to look at as enlarged (500%) PDF's , and they are good for printing and working from that way too , so I have attached them for others as well...


KB.





Attached Files Shift Register 74HC165_Board_DIP16_ Layout.jpgShift Register 74HC165_Board_GOOD_ Layout2.jpg
Last edited by Kbird; 05/01/17 04:19 PM.

My FLCS+TQS Conversion here on SimHQ

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324940/1
#4354674 - 05/01/17 01:03 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,955
Sokol1 Offline
Senior Member
Sokol1  Offline
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,955
Internet
Erichos,

Nice work on your assemblies. thumbsup

#4354697 - 05/01/17 07:39 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 454
Kb1rd1 Offline
Member
Kb1rd1  Offline
Member

Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 454

Thanks again Erichos , you were right , it was the 10k ohm Resistor in the schematic I used that was missing on the Data/Miso connection , I added it in tonight and a quick test shows it all working now.

I removed the HotGlue on the back ( heatgun) and broke the Solder connections at Pin 1 and the edge of the Board and added in the Resistor and all 16 buttons are working properly ,with no "Flashing" of the buttons either.

Strangely with Firmware 2016-8-18 , I can't seem to get Buttons 37 and 38 to show up in VKB Button Tester or the Windows Game Controller Applet (buttons programmed as 18 and 19) , though MMjoy sees them fine. Buttons 39 and 40 work ok , and higher buttons work fine too.

KB.

.

Attached Files SR_165 PCB_ (1).jpgSR_165 PCB_ (5).jpgSR_165 PCB_ (6).jpgSR_165 PCB_ (2).jpg

My FLCS+TQS Conversion here on SimHQ

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324940/1
#4354725 - 05/01/17 12:37 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,179
Viper1970 Offline
Member
Viper1970  Offline
Member

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,179
Bavaria, near Munich
Hello Kbird,

nice to see your progress with your work!

I also like to use hallsensors for my project, but I din't know how sensitive the sensors are. The problem is that I have some speakers in my pit, which are about 20cm near my throttle and my sidestick mechanics. They are even screened but I don't know if that is enough to keep the sensors away of doing strange things. At the moment I decided to stay with the pots but as I already have the sensors I really would like to use them.


CockpitPC1: Ryzen9 5950X|64GB DDR4|512GB M2 SSD|2TB M2 SSD|Geforce RTX3090|Reverb G2|Win11Pro
CockpitPC2: PhenomII X6 1100T|32GB DDR2|2x 2TB HDD|2x Geforce GTX660 SLI|Win7Pro64
ComUnitPC1: Ryzen9 3900XT|32GB DDR4|2x 2TB HDD|Geforce RTX2070|Win11 Pro
ComUnitPC2: PhenomII X6 1100T|16GB DDR2|2x 2TB HDD|Geforce GTX660|Win7Pro64
ComUnitPC3: AthlonII X2 250|2GB DDR2|2TB HDD|Geforce 5950Ultra|2x VoodooII SLI|WinXPPro32&WinME
ComUnitPC4: K6-2+|768MB SDR|640GB HDD|Geforce 256DDR|VoodooI|Win98SE
#4354779 - 05/01/17 04:42 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 454
Kb1rd1 Offline
Member
Kb1rd1  Offline
Member

Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 454

Yes , it's nice to finally have a "win" and I actually may have a usable FLCS any day now smile , thankfully Erichos was here to rescue me again smile as I would never have found the missing 10K resistor since I really don't know electronics at all.

The Problem with the missing resistor was getting me frustrated as everything worked fine as long as I didn't attach it to the FLCS , so I am still a bit surprised that the extra wire length makes that much difference, so I could see many problems in a Pit like yours where the wires would be much longer I assume?

I used 1/4" metal washers as spacers on my 1st attempt to modify my FLCS Pots to TLE5010 , not thinking about their effect on the magnetic field of the 4mm magnet ....or the fact they were loose on the pot shaft and could spin freely , which also effected the magnetic field , which I noticed only by accident having VKB Joystick Tester Window open and turning the joystick upside down to look inside , I saw the plot line spike in the VKB window , and then spinning them by hand and not moving the stick caused the same problem.

I finally got the magnet orientation on the TLE5010 sensors correct this weekend too so the FLCS is nearly done , now onto finishing the TQS , since the Issue with the SR'165 PCB has been fixed too and I need to make one for it yet.


KB.


My FLCS+TQS Conversion here on SimHQ

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324940/1
#4354803 - 05/01/17 06:50 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 63
erichos Offline
Junior Member
erichos  Offline
Junior Member

Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 63
Slovakia
Hi Kbird, I`m glad to know that you were successful, good job.

Be careful not to forget jumpers (wires jumpers). You can see them on the picture in Sprint-Layout 6 Viewer:
[Linked Image]

That was my first ShReg board:
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Originally Posted by Kbird

Strangely with Firmware 2016-8-18 , I can't seem to get Buttons 37 and 38 to show up in VKB Button Tester or the Windows Game Controller Applet (buttons programmed as 18 and 19) , though MMjoy sees them fine. Buttons 39 and 40 work ok , and higher buttons work fine too.
KB.

It is not problem of firmware, make sure about right connections and software settings.


Originally Posted by Kbird

The Problem with the missing resistor was getting me frustrated as everything worked fine as long as I didn't attach it to the FLCS , so I am still a bit surprised that the extra wire length makes that much difference, so I could see many problems in a Pit like yours where the wires would be much longer I assume?

Solution is perfect all connections, shielded or twisted cables/wires and resistors (e.g. short data wires=10kOhm but longer wires=1kOhm) and capacitors (between VCC and GND) on both sides for filtering out, sometimes it is ghost hunting :-)


Originally Posted by Kbird

Nice Rudders , did you machine all the Aluminum by Hand and press the bearings etc or was it a Kit you got ?

Originally Posted by Sokol1
Erichos,
Nice work on your assemblies. thumbsup

Thanks guys for compliments.
I drew all main parts and my father made them from Alluminium (shafts from steel) at factory. I bought bearings and other necessary parts (screws, nuts, washers, spring...) and put together at home. Bearings to freezer and Allu parts to oven (my wife was very happyyyyy :-) ) and let`s go press. Some cutting the threads and drilling holes..... some electronics... it was not difficult :-) Rudders are very precise, no clearence, because I used 10 pcs bearings. But idea is not my own. I saw it on some Russian web I am not sure where (it was 4 years ago) and cost was about 300$ and problem how to send them from RF to EU so I used their principle of mechanics, only from photos I drew main parts, others I had to think up, dimensions, particular details and electronics are my own.

Bye


Last edited by erichos; 05/01/17 07:00 PM.
#4354811 - 05/01/17 07:50 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 454
Kb1rd1 Offline
Member
Kb1rd1  Offline
Member

Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 454

I have connected both the 15 pins (Chip enable) to GND on my 16bit SR Board as I copied a later Schematic from 2016 for a SMD '165 Board and I did notice the White lines ("connects") in Sprint Viewer in the DIP version but I had already done them.

However I also see them on the 2016 SMD version on the 0k ohm VCC resistors , why would they be needed there ? I would of thought the resistor is enough or is that a error on that schematic like the missing 10k ohm resistor on Miso?

I will have to play with MMjoy and figure out why 37 and 38 don't show in VKB but do in MMjoy , it does sound like a setup issue in MMjoy except those buttons in MMjoy can not have Modes or Timers assigned , so I thought they should just shoe as Normal buttons. I would not of noticed , except now I have the SR PCB working , I have 16 extra Buttons now and 12 (rotary switch) need to be under the 32 button no# limit for buttons with applied Modes+timers .

KB


My FLCS+TQS Conversion here on SimHQ

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324940/1
#4354825 - 05/01/17 09:00 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Kb1rd1]  
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 63
erichos Offline
Junior Member
erichos  Offline
Junior Member

Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 63
Slovakia
Originally Posted by Kbird

However I also see them on the 2016 SMD version on the 0k ohm VCC resistors , why would they be needed there ? I would of thought the resistor is enough or is that a error on that schematic like the missing 10k ohm resistor on Miso?
KB


No Kbird, it is OK, no error, wire jumper or 0k ohm resistor is the same solution. It`s OK. You can use wire jumper if you need to connect some routes not very close. Or you can draw these routes one next other very close and use SMD resistor with value 0 Ohm so it is like wire, no resistance, do you understand? It`s only about designer.

Last edited by erichos; 05/03/17 11:43 AM.
#4354827 - 05/01/17 09:07 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: erichos]  
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 454
Kb1rd1 Offline
Member
Kb1rd1  Offline
Member

Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 454
Originally Posted by erichos
Originally Posted by Kbird

However I also see them on the 2016 SMD version on the 0k ohm VCC resistors , why would they be needed there ? I would of thought the resistor is enough or is that a error on that schematic like the missing 10k ohm resistor on Miso?
KB


No Kbird, it is OK, no error, wires jumper or 0k ohm resistor is the same solution. It`s OK. You can use wire jumper if you need to connect some routes not very close. Or you can draw these routes one next other very close and use SMD resistor with value 0 Ohm so it is like wire, no resistance, do you understand? It`s only about designer.



Ok , yes thanks for the explanation , it is an either or situation , not both except where a SMD resistor is not long enough.

KB.


My FLCS+TQS Conversion here on SimHQ

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324940/1
#4355065 - 05/03/17 03:24 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Kb1rd1]  
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 4
Buncan Offline
Junior Member
Buncan  Offline
Junior Member

Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 4
Btw - the 74hc165 shiftregister circuits i know from earlier electronic experiments, had a slightly different layout.
There should be a 10k pullup between the SER pin and +5V of each shiftregister
And a 100nF capacitor between Vdd and Gnd as close to the chips pins as possible.
http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_dinx4.pdf

Attached Files Shift-Register-Board-Layout extra.png
Last edited by Buncan; 05/03/17 03:27 AM.
#4355144 - 05/03/17 04:47 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Buncan]  
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 454
Kb1rd1 Offline
Member
Kb1rd1  Offline
Member

Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 454
Originally Posted by Buncan
Btw - the 74hc165 shiftregister circuits i know from earlier electronic experiments, had a slightly different layout.
There should be a 10k pullup between the SER pin and +5V of each shiftregister
And a 100nF capacitor between Vdd and Gnd as close to the chips pins as possible.
http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_dinx4.pdf


Thanks Buncan , good info and a nice PDF.

I assume you mean a ceramic 100nF capacitor ? ie a #104 (see PDF below if needed)

I had to do some googling for more info, so here it is for other noobs too...

SER is Pin 10 and also called QS or in MMJoy PCB layout's DATA NEXT

PDF below....

Pullup Resistor = a Resistor connected to 5v+ or 3.3v+
Pulldown Resistor = a Resistor connected to Ground (GND)

https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/pull-up-resistors


Attached Files 104 Ceramic = 100nF.JPG
Capacitor_Markings.pdf (497 downloads)
Last edited by Kbird; 05/03/17 10:39 PM.

My FLCS+TQS Conversion here on SimHQ

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324940/1
#4356071 - 05/08/17 07:33 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 51
Sak75 Offline
Junior Member
Sak75  Offline
Junior Member

Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 51
Madrid, Spain

Last edited by Sak75; 05/08/17 01:45 PM.
#4356258 - 05/09/17 02:21 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 115
Barra Offline
Member
Barra  Offline
Member

Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 115
Australia
Well my TLE5010 boards finally arrived this morning. So some serious thought needs to be done now on design and build of Rudder Pedals now that I have hands on sensors. So good news for me.

Maybe not so good for others here as I know I will have lots more questions for you. LOL:)

#4356263 - 05/09/17 03:11 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 454
Kb1rd1 Offline
Member
Kb1rd1  Offline
Member

Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 454

Perhaps document it and start a new thread , that would be good ...for me anyway:) at some point I will make my own since I have never really liked my CH Pro Pedals but now have two sets, as a set came as part of a Deal ($75) for another FLCS and TQS and a CH Pro throttle and other gameport accessories.


My FLCS+TQS Conversion here on SimHQ

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324940/1
#4356577 - 05/10/17 07:17 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: erichos]  
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 115
Barra Offline
Member
Barra  Offline
Member

Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 115
Australia
Originally Posted by erichos

erichos nice pedals. I am looking at doing something similar and I am looking at various designs to come up with something. Kristof080 also displayed some nice simple pedals as well.

I do have some questions on yours if you don't mind.

It would appear that your design just encompasses rudder only with no toe brakes?

Did you use skateboard bearings?

I was considering alloy but was concerned that it may bend over time. I realise you do not put you weight down on them but do you have any concerns yet over using the alloy?

Is the alloy 10 or 12mm thick?

Do you get much spring noise with movement of the pedals?

I was thinking of making my 1st prototype in timber then and then I will decide which way to go for final version.

cheers

Last edited by Barra; 05/10/17 07:33 AM.
#4356680 - 05/10/17 08:42 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 63
erichos Offline
Junior Member
erichos  Offline
Junior Member

Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 63
Slovakia
Hi Barra,

1) yes you are right there are no toe brakes but no problem to finish it.
2) yes, 6 pcs are standard skateboard/in-line skates bearings and 4 pcs on main shafts are a little bigger bearings.
3) most parts are made from 6mm alloy and bearing housing for bigger bearings are made from 8mm alloy, no chance to bend it. Why alloy? It is lighter than steel but quite firm, no corrosion, I think it`s better than steel for this purpose.
4) so 6 and 8 mm thick.
5) no noise with movement.

If you need some other info give me know, no problem.

Last edited by erichos; 05/10/17 08:42 PM.
Page 72 of 112 1 2 70 71 72 73 74 111 112

Moderated by  RacerGT 

Quick Search
Recent Articles
Support SimHQ

If you shop on Amazon use this Amazon link to support SimHQ
.
Social


Recent Topics
Carnival Cruise Ship Fire....... Again
by F4UDash4. 03/26/24 05:58 PM
Baltimore Bridge Collapse
by F4UDash4. 03/26/24 05:51 PM
The Oldest WWII Veterans
by F4UDash4. 03/24/24 09:21 PM
They got fired after this.
by Wigean. 03/20/24 08:19 PM
Grown ups joke time
by NoFlyBoy. 03/18/24 10:34 PM
Anyone Heard from Nimits?
by F4UDash4. 03/18/24 10:01 PM
RIP Gemini/Apollo astronaut Tom Stafford
by semmern. 03/18/24 02:14 PM
10 years after 3/8/2014
by NoFlyBoy. 03/17/24 10:25 AM
Copyright 1997-2016, SimHQ Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.6.0