I think a simple way to check polarity is just to drag the tip of a needle on the various surfaces, and, when you see a sudden brake/fast moovement it means you just past the division between north and south hemisphere. Am i correct? Then just grab a permenent marker, those we use to mark DVD's and draw the line.
Inline advert (2nd and 3rd post)
#4353474 - 04/25/1706:24 PMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
Because these magnets are so small , tests like with the needle are hard to use , initially I just let them stick to each other knowing that they would join N-S-N-S , they always joined on their edges not flats, so I was pretty sure they were diametrically magnetised but I didn't know which was North so I made the little North Rig in the image below out of the Jar Lid. By keeping the 4mm magnet about 2"-3" (50-75mm) away from the North Rig and circling the 4mm magnet on a smooth surface it will turn its SOUTH pole to the North Pointer, so you can then mark the North Pole on the 4mm magnet too (side opposite the North Rig) .
So the magnets should definitely be placed flat Correct ? should the North south line be Left/Right or Up/Down , or at a 45° angle in relation to the Pot Shaft when installed ? or does it matter since we aren't turning 360°?
Kbird I have never handled a diametrically magnetised magnet so I don't know a lot about them. It looks like you have 2 magnets joined together in test. Normal magnets will sit flat on each other like that but I was not expecting 2 diametrically magnetised magnets to join like that. Or do I have it screwed up?
Are these the magnets that came with the board?
This is of great interest to me because my sensors should be here in a couple of days.
#4353505 - 04/25/1710:02 PMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Sokol1]
Hi Barra , you have it correct....... the small magnet out in front of my rig is the 4mm magnet that came with the TLE5010 Boards ( at the bottom of the 2nd pic marked 1/2 in blue for North)
The magnet I used in the Rig (yellow lid) is a 3/4" or 19mm Rare Earth magnet I use in the Shop or on my Fridge , I let 2 of them smack together from 4-5 inches away by accident and one of them snap right down the middle (north / south line I don't know? ) but watch for sharp edges if it happens to you. Because with these 19mm R.E. magnets N/S is either side (axially-see pic a few posts back) I believe the two halves snapped together in a N-S-N-S orientation , and because it is reasonably strong it finds North pretty fast in the water bath if you keep it away from the edges.
Sorry didn't realise those pics weren't that good, so I labelled the image now for others
Not if I understand you correctly, North and South will always point at each other on two different magnets. The N/S line in the Lid (Top) is perpendicular to the (geographic/compass) North Arrow I drew in the Lid. The Arrow tells me which side of the axially magnetised broken RE Magnet is north as that side always faces geographic North in the water bath.
Did I explain that ok?
*** rereading your post yes I think you got it right...
I think we are saying the same thing I just did not word mine all that well.
"So that means that the N/S line on the diametrically magnetised magnet would run perpendicular to the N/S line in the top?" By this I meant the dividing line or split of N/S on the actual diametrically magnetised magnet as being perpendicular to the line of N/S shown by magnet in yellow top. This what you have drawn on that magnet. This may be important in the orientation to the sensor?
Keen to hear what others say to your question on alignment/orientation to sensor - hopefully it did not get lost in discussion!.
#4353544 - 04/26/1703:00 AMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Barra]
I think we are saying the same thing I just did not word mine all that well.
"So that means that the N/S line on the diametrically magnetised magnet would run perpendicular to the N/S line in the top?" By this I meant the dividing line or split of N/S on the actual diametrically magnetised magnet as being perpendicular to the line of N/S shown by magnet in yellow top. This what you have drawn on that magnet. This may be important in the orientation to the sensor?
Keen to hear what others say to your question on alignment/orientation to sensor - hopefully it did not get lost in discussion!.
Yes the Orientation is the question I asked this morning ,
Someone has removed the Header Pins from the PCB at the bottom , I marked them in yellow for you , so you need to replace them with a standard male pins like the others (1.1mm?) as you need 3 of them. (see the 6th image below brown and black are not used) Two of the Pins on the SR PCB are not used ...at least not in my FLCS , the wires were cut off at the factory ....I have added images below for you ....I have more if you need them too.
The other Holes marked in RED are where the wires that go down the Shaft handle to the Main PCB were attached , On mine I actually added Male pins too, as I kept breaking the wires off , but if you do that you need to remove the plastic parts of the Dupont connector and cover the metal inner part with heat shrink instead or you cant quite close the Handle again. NOTE THE COLOURS OF THE WIRES ...(important) and see pic (below) telling you what they are....
4mm diametrically magnetised magnets come with the TLE5010 boards if you ordered them off AliExpress ?
I was who remove those pins, but I don't know what its name those header because the yellow maked pin header is smaller than red ones. So I should be one male and 6 female header from this type. And one par the red marked, but I want it 90 deg version that it doesn't break it in use.
If you have pics about the wires from shift reg to buttons, it will be good. Becouse my grip is totally wrong and it is soldered with scan matrix with diodes, but I want to soldered back the original state
I have individual TLE 5010 chip so I didn't order from Ali that's way ask that this magnets good or not.
#4354310 - 04/28/1710:43 PMRe: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller
[Re: Repvez]
I was who remove those pins, but I don't know what its name those header because the yellow maked pin header is smaller than red ones. So I should be one male and 6 female header from this type. And one par the red marked, but I want it 90 deg version that it doesn't break it in use.
If you have pics about the wires from shift reg to buttons, it will be good. Becouse my grip is totally wrong and it is soldered with scan matrix with diodes, but I want to soldered back the original state
I have individual TLE 5010 chip so I didn't order from Ali that's way ask that this magnets good or not.
There was never any pins at the RED marked area , (See pic below) the wires were soldered direct to the PCB , I added Pins to my PCB because the original soldeering and wires kept breaking while I was working on the handle, but it is the same pins on my board , you can just separate them off the snappable header into single pins with your cutters , they also come in 90° too , I used 90° pins to modify 2 Leonardos' so they would fit into the FLCS and TQS easier as the Pro Micro's I ordered for that have never turned up from China.
Dimensions: Diameter 8.00 mm x 4.00 mm thickness Tolerances: ± 002 "x ± 002" (+/- 0.05mm x ± 05mm) Material: NdFeB, GradeN42 Plating / Coating: Ni-Cu-Ni (Nickel) Triple Plated Magnetization Direction: Diametrically (Poles on the curved side)
Thanks Kristoff ...and sorry I wasn't clear I guess , the Website Repevez linked too has a .hu extension so I think it is Hungarian and seems to be talking about degrees ° which I don't know about.
***edit: If you goto Kristoff's magnet link on AliExpress and switch AliExpress to the language you need (hungarian or ?) it should tell you all about those magnets if his explanation above is not enough.
Not much luck with my TLE5010 Axis's at the moment , and I think I may have killed one trying to swap the magnet orientation without disassembling the Joystick again ...
So I left it for a day or two and have made a Shift Register PCB/Board with Two 74HC165 SR Chips on it since I had SOIC not DIP '165 IC's . I just used MegaMozg PCB Layout image as a guide and copied the traces and it actually works nice to have one win this month ..... well as long as I don't connect it to the FLCS ... it appears when I connect power/gnd/sck/data/CS into the FLCS corresponding wires that the chip either burns out ? or something else happens as I lose either 1/2 the inputs ( 1 chip) or it seems to go crazy ( flashing buttons)... but sitting on the desk hooked to a breadboard and extra switches it all works fine ...I have now run my local Electronics Store out of '165 SR's , and they are wondering what I am doing with them all , any ideas on what might be the issue before I cause the death of anymore SR's ???
SCK is connected into a Common wire with the TLE5010 Boards' SCK and the Handle's 4021-SR PCB SCK PWR is common to the Pots and Switches etc GND is common to the Pots and Switches etc DATA is to F1 (assumed any PIN is OK or do I need a Digital Side Pin on the Leo? eg D4) ***Note DATA is also called MISO and that connecting the TLE5010 and Handle Miso/Data wires together (common) did not work -- the buttons disappeared CS is to F0 (assumed any PIN is OK or do I need a Digital Side Pin on the Leo? eg D4)