Thanks SolderMonkey.
So I assume from your comment that I must maintain the outer pins as individual columns as I found that when I placed middle pins as individual rows I could not get 2 encoders working correctly. I setup outer pins into 2 common columns as it suited me more to have less columns used.

However, as I did not want to use encoder push buttons I did not wire those in anywhere on assumption that they were optional. DO I need to wire them in?

Cheers

They're just a button, use them or don't. They're separate from the shaft turning and don't need to be hooked up.

I'm not sure on the outers having to be the columns. I've never tried hooking them up backwards from the displayed method.

Having buttons and not hooking them up might hurt the button's feelings though. Don't be insensitive.

Ok I will try not to be insensitive in the future!

Successfully reworked and now 2 Encoders working. Not going with the 3 as originally had planned at this point. Also added buttons of encoders but not necessary - may or may not use. If I use then I need to delve into a mapper which I was not going to do.

Now to get box complete. Still waiting on some gear to finish that.

Thanks for help all.

Attached copy of software setup. It took a while to find the button numbers for the encoders. Still not sure what has happened to "Button #1" It seems to have gone missing in action?
Cheers

Barra - Can you diagram your connections and post a few photos of your creation here? I've never hooked up a matrix, a shift register and encoders into the same controller. Incredibly curious what you've got going on, how you hooked it up and how it's working for you. I just threw together an order of parts for a true button box. Maybe it needs encoders ...

OK will do. It will be rough drawing as I don't know much about the circuit diagram protocols.

As a starter for you - I built a test bed to work out how each item worked with MMjoy. Together, that covered 9 momentary buttons, 1 "On-None_On" toggle and a rotary switch (3 switch points) all connected to Shift Registers. In the end I have decided to drop the Rotary. I built the button matrix for the 2 encoders and their buttons. And last was a standard pot. This was the test bed and final box will be 3 pots, 2 Encoders/buttons with a total of 32 buttons.

Like to thank debolestis for his SR boards - love them.

This was a project to learn on as I will try and build a set of rudder pedals next! That will be a challenge.

Cheers

Solder Monkey I have tried to do a diagram that covers what I did. It was done in Excel because that is what I know to a reasonable degree. Do not have any other circuit software. Also could not find a free one.

I attached 2 PDF's. 1 is of the Test Bed wire diagram which is done as best I could do - I do hope I got it right!! The 2nd just shows different parts of test bed. With exception of Shift Register board all are temporary setups.

The Perf Board has Diodes on reverse with header pins on front. I did not want to solder wires from switches together in case things did not work - just as well. The Diode arrangement and Columns with them may look strange. They are like that because they started as rows which I redid (by cutting some of connecting wires) after your reply, because I could not get rows working as covered earlier. I also added the extra connection to columns to cater for the push buttons of Encoder. I also used to practice some soldering.

Again I just like to thank Mega_Mozg_13 for program along with Sokol1 and Debolestis and many others here and on ED forums. Without all I would not have got anywhere.

Hope this helps in some way.

I'm having trouble updating the firmware, i setted every field for the arduino micro, then i push the reset button and when the port turn green i push the upload firmware button; then the cmd window open and show a message about connecting to the programmer and nothing else happens. Does anyone knows what i can be doing worng?????

I don't know a lot but maybe you post a copy of MMJoy2 software page so that others can see and review. I know I did not think it had done anything but it had.

Erichos

Is there much to adding an LED to a board (eg Pro Micro)? Like you I would like to add an LED for Gear up if at all possible.

Possibly doing nothing wrong , it is sometimes a pain in the A** but I find if I double tap the reset button quickly instead of pushing it just once it seems to work better ... it's almost like a single tap doesn't always get it into Bootloader mode , just restarts the Pro/Leonardo

If you Open Device Manager you can also watch and Check the Port no#s and hit update Firmware at the right moment as you only get about 8 secs while it is in Bootloader Mode.

KB

Could you not use a Double Pole Switch , DPDT I think? in an ON-ON type one ? ( Up and Down)

I wired an LED into my FLCS's Download switch in the ON position since that side of the original switch was unused , not sure what I'll use it for yet though , it was just an exercise since the Button was already there.

KB.

DPDT switch is two mechanical switches - as 6 pins - under one lever/rocket.

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Just wire each ON - one from left (switch) pins column, other in right - in two different MMJoy2 button inputs.

This is what actually is happening, i push the button (now double push) and there is a green ligth in my arduino micro, then after it atop i see the port back to green and i can push the upload button




The damm thing change port while in bootloader mode thank you Kbird I wouldn't check the device manager by myself

I agree with Kbird. Use double tap for reset. Do that a few times while watching Device Manager COM List.

It will change COM number while in Bootloader. Then when Bootloader is finished COM number will revert to the original COM number. You need nee to use the COM number that appeared briefly during Bootloader.

You are highlighting the Micro device line in the "Device list and configuration" box before trying to do upload?

Not sure I understand fully Sokol1.

I could put into either the matrix or the shift registers. Say I used an On-None-On toggle switch where the up switch is "On" and the down switch is "Off". I then wired an LED to the "Up" connection point as well as the standard wire coming from that same connector but take both to separate MMJoy2 button inputs?
By doing a separate button input for LED this will then go to maximum count of 32 buttons for Windows-True?


What I did in wiring I drew in post: http://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.p...uild-your-own-usb-controller#Post4345788

I don't think that is good idea connect LED in buttons place on Shift Register or Diode Matrix*, connect to external power source, e.g. USB cable + and - wires. *

And use 2 pins from DPDT switch for turn LED on together with button on MMjoy2. Can use a DPST (ON-OFF) for this.

upload photos

MMJoy2 LED support is for output LED and work for War Thunder, not all games.

* But if want connect there look back in this topic someone post how he connect LED in between diode matrix.

OK thanks Sokol1

Yes that is standard ( did you read the Wiki? https://github.com/MMjoy/mmjoy_en/wiki)

Once you have the Firmware loaded , you wont see the Arduino Bootloader Mode anymore but it still changes Com Ports during Firmware updates. ( not loading Sets though as they are called )

You are Using Firmware 2016-8-18Upd. are you? that is the recommended one here as the newer 2016-11-1 has a few Bugs....

KB

Hi , I am having a wiring issue I believe , the TLE5010 Boards are installed and Working fine , the 4021 Shift Registers in the Handle are working fine too ....BUT only if I don't connect them at the same time , ie the TLE5010 are working or the Buttons in the Handle are working but not both at the same time . From the information below from earlier in the Thread my understanding is that i can connect all the wires together to their appropriate Pins except CS , which each have their own Pins , and the 2 Gen wires from the TLE 5010 Boards , they are wired together and then go to B6 on the Leonardo.

I am not sure if the Handle Wiring in the FLCS is the Same as the Cougar , I found the image below online , perhaps that is the issue and the colours are different in the FLCS? ( I thought FLCS,F22 and Cougar were the same though?)


From Earlier in the Thread.......

As mega_mozg_13 wrote you need to connect:
"B6" for TLE5010-GEN - this pin are shared for all TLE5010/5011 sensors.

"B3" for SPI-MISO - this pin are shared for all "SPI" sensors (TLE5010/5011/kma200/mcp3201-3208).
"B1" for SPI-SCK - this pin are shared for all "SPI" sensors (TLE5010/5011/kma200/mcp3201-3208).

"SPI-CS" - you can connect as you like, and where you connect CS-pin need to setup at configurator. this pin are individual to sensor. (F4 & F5 - just a sample).

also additional data line "SPI-MOSI" shared for "SPI" sensors mcp3202-3208. ... if you did not use IC MCP3202-3208 you do not need pin SPI-MOSI and you can use this pin for button matrix or like CS for TLE5011 and so on...

Use saved calibration not auto calibration for TLE5011.


Thanks for the help,


KB

***SEE CORRECTED IMAGE IN THIS POST
http://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.p...uild-your-own-usb-controller#Post4347381