For what its worth, I'll give some details on my new AMD Ryzen build -- as it comes together. This build is not expected to be the best or fastest at SimHQ -- its just my build.

Since Ryzen and the motherboard have not been written up in independent test reports, I'm taking a slight risk -- okay with me

At this point, all the major items are in-hand, in-transit, or pre-ordered.

Allen's AMD Ryzen Build

CPU: AMD Ryzen 1800X 8core/16thread 3.6Ghz/4.0GHz Pre-Order $503*

Motherboard: Gigabyte AORUS GA-AX370-Gaming K7 $210*

Memory: G.SKILL TridentZ Series DDR4 2x16GB = 32GB 3200MHz Timing 14-14-14-34 $275*

Graphics (GPU): Sapphire AMD RX480 8GB Reference $0**

Center Monitor: Samsung 32in WQHD 1440p 2K LED Monitor (S32D850T) $0**

Standard SSD: Samsung 850EVO 500GB + 840EVO 500GB (for Games) = 1TB total $0**

M.2 SSD: Samsung 960EVO 500GB PCIe NVMe (MZ-V6E500BW) $262*

Hard Drives: Seagate Barracuda Pro 6TB (for games) + 4 x Barracuda 3TB = 18TB total $0**

DVD/BluRay Burner: ASUS $0**

Power Supply: Rosewill Quark-1000 watt, 80 Plus Platinum Certified $120*

Cooling: Swiftech water with 3x120mm fan radiator $0**

Case: Rosewill R5 - Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower Case $70*

Miscellaneous: Arctic Silver 12gm $15*, Swiftech cooling block adapter $10*, 2x Rosewill 140mm Long Life $22*, 3x120mm Red-LED fans $15*, extra fans $0**

Notes:
* Delivered prices are shown that include shipping and taxes.

** No new cost -- moved from another in-house system

3200MHz DDR4 is expected to have little to no effect on gaming versus DDR4 2133MHz. 3200MHz is for other applications.

M.2 SSD of type shown is 400 percent to 600 percent faster than Standard SSD.

RX480 plays my games smoothly to my eyes at "ultra" settings 2560x1440p (2K) -- with minor exceptions in a small number of heavily-modded games. However, depending on Vega price, I may replace with Vega when it is released in May/June 2017.

Allen, how did you know what RAM to get? I didn't see a Qualified Vendor List for the Crosshair VI Hero.

I based it on the Intel version of the ASUS motherboard and on an article I came across that indicated GSkill very similar to mine might work better than average with AM4 motherboard chipset. Also, since AMD "takes a back seat" to Intel, they have to design their stuff to work with Intel-proven peripheral hardware, I speculate.

However, this is one of the chances I am taking with this build (key items pre-ordered or ordered before independent testing is published).

EDIT: By the way, the memory just "came in the door" a few minutes ago. No new information on or in the box. Looks good though

Sounds logical, hope you're right.

Gigabyte AORIS GA-AX370-Gaming K7 motherboard:

Changed to this one beginning March 30, 2017. Returning the previous partly defective ASUS.

I have never liked motherboards looking like that.

I care what it does, not what it looks like!
That said, if you run out of USB ports with this thing you are crazy.


The Jedi Master

Agree.

I sometimes wonder if all the "shields" will get in the way. This is my first such MB. Even I wondered why all the USB ports. According to ASUS site, its to support the myriad of gaming devices some folks attach. And, apparently, there is some small value (for those looking for that last 0.25FPS) in attaching USB2 to USB2, USB3 to USB3, etc, they say.

But, I did get it for the performance. Apparently, in limited leaked tests so far, it's the most overclockable motherboard. I was just lucky. I did not know that when I ordered it (but, being a top brand, I hoped it would overclock well).

EDIT: To be clear, I do like the look of it. However, I did not buy it for looks as it goes into a closed case.

Im still in love w/ the Black and White ASRock Board,

My "Personal" Build will have to wait for next years tax return likely, as right now, there is literally Zero budget to make big purchases.

My "Professional" Build, well, it doesn't "belong" to me, so once I finish what I'm tasked to do for my job, I have to surrender it...

I almost "pulled the trigger" on the "ASRock Fatal1ty X370 Professional Gaming AM4" (put it in the cart, momentarily). But, ultimately went with the more familiar to me ASUS brand. I do have one or two ASROCK MBs in the house.

By the way, the price on the ASRock dropped $40 since it first went up at Newegg on Feb 22. Its now $220 with rebate. Perhaps the best "bang per buck" overall at the high end.

I held this one in person..
http://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/X370%20Taichi/index.asp

Number of USB ports is the primary reason I chose Crosshair instead of Prime. With all the flight sim controllers, racing controllers, Oculus gear and of course, keyboard and mouse, I don't want to be left without a single free USB port.

$100+ extra is a lot of money for more USB ports, but I'll probably appreciate all the other extra features with time.

A picture of one of my G.Skill DDR4 memory sticks, Samsung 840EVO, and Samsung 960EVO M.2 SSD.

This is the first M.2 SSD I've had. They've been around for a while. I just never had a way to use them.

The 960EVO is a relatively new item released last Fall. The notable thing is its VERY small size. Not obvious in the picture is how very thin it is. Its merely the integrated circuits (small thin ones) on a thin printed circuit board.

Supposedly, the standard SSD is similar inside. The larger size of the standard SSD is simply to make it fit where it goes.

I only leave my TrackIR, kb, and mouse plugged in continually. All my other USB devices I connect when I use them and disconnect when not in use.

If I had them all connected at once, I would literally be unable to move in the vicinity of my PC and it would be a tangled disaster!



The Jedi Master

Compared to the memory DIMM, the 960 does look tiny.

Just saw this on an 1800X product page:
http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX65529

"AM4 Ryzen™ CPU Cooler Not Included!"

I thought every Ryzen CPU came with a Wraith cooler?!

UPDATE: same on Newegg.ca. Only the 1700 comes with Wraith Spire cooler. Both X models come without.

UPDATE II: confirmed in the product comparison chart at http://www.digitaltrends.com/computing/amd-ryzen-1800x-overclocked-world-record/

UPDATE III: depends on the model. Some 1700X and 1800X will come with Wraith Max, some not:
http://cdn.wccftech.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/AMD-Ryzen-1800x-1700x-1700-boxes-coolers.jpg

there are skus for retai box w/ Waith Max and SKUs for CPU Only

At least that settles the CPU cooler question. I ordered the Noctora fan.

Still no word on supported RAM chips, though. Looks like we won't know until the last minute.

I was a bit annoyed when Intel stopped making the retail w/cooler SKUs. As someone who stopped aggressive OC'ing before the SW prequel trilogy ended, I was perfectly content with the one in the box.

But no, Intel dropped it (without dropping the price of the CPU, in other words raising the price $20+ for each) unceremoniously, forcing me to start researching coolers when I did my last upgrade.

I'll be honest, the only thing less sexy in PC hardware than a fan is...no, never mind, NOTHING is less sexy. I can get more enthusiasm for PSUs and keyboards and even SATA cables with 90 degree connectors. I HATED having to look into what was good but cheap.




The Jedi Master

My Ryzen arrived today.

Now, I need only the Motherboard. All the other listed components are "in the house".

Some indications are that the motherboard may not ship until March 9 or later.

I looked for alternatives. There seem to be none at my favorite retailers. And, the ASUS is the best fit for my usage. Thus, I wait.

The Asus Crosshair is sold out everywhere.....

I still have the ASRock X370 Taichi on my Wishlist...

Waiting for the motherboard is costing me money. I'm monetarily "in so deep" on this build that I can rationalize a couple hundred more -- just for fun (no "bang for buck" here).

So, I added an unneeded, but nice, 1000w 80 Plus Platinum PSU for $120 (on sale). And, some new fans that are "perfect for my PC case" for $37 (cheap). The foregoing replace the items I was going to "move" from older PCs for $0. I updated the description in the first post.

But the expenditure record was set many years ago. Back in the 1980s, when many work days extended well beyond the 8 hours in the office, I bought a work-at-home desktop PC system for $4500 (single core CPU, zero-shader 2D GPU). After accounting for "cost of living", that's my all-time record expenditure for a home PC. It turned out to be well worth it.

I remember buying a $3900 Packard Bell 486.. haha
Then Sound Blaster / CDROM Kit ($500).


AFAIK, the mainboard Manufacturers knew the 3rd was the release date.

However, they estimated the qty needed based off Previous AMD Launches of PileDriver and APUs...

$4500 in 1989 is $8800 today. If you ordered it earlier, that was even more.

Basically you paid used-car prices for that thing.



The Jedi Master

I save all my invoices from my build, last I checked, it was well over 9500. then another 4K in Accessories.

Somehow I missed it until today.

My ASUS ROG Crosshair VI Hero handles BOTH AM3 and AM4 cooling solutions (has 4 holes drilled for AM3 and 4 holes drilled for AM4 = 8 total holes). So, my existing Swiftech water cooler did not need an AM3 to AM4 adapter. Another "plus" for the ASUS MB.

Still no telling when the motherboard will come.

I just noticed that too yesterday on their product page. Seems like it is recent information.

I had to change the motherboard to ASUS Prime X370-Pro AM4 because the original item shipping dates were delayed and are unknown. This motherboard does not support AM3 sockets.

Cancelled Amazon pre-order and purchased locally at Micro Center.

I modified earlier posts in the thread to reflect the different Motherboard.

I now have everything needed for the build. So, to work

Upon unboxing I noticed A STANDARD AM3 HEATSINK FITS the heatsink mounting. The mounting holes are in a different spot. But, one does not use the holes with a standard heat sink.

The AM4 heatsink mounting holes are located differently. So, heatsinks and water coolers that ask one to remove the standard mount may have issues.

the AMD Clip Coolers should work (Including most AIO Coolers Hxxx, etc etc), the ones you have to remove the AMD Retention Bracket are the problem ones

Scary first hour of power on operation with minimal system parts installed -- blank black screen -- no boot. Everything seemed to power up but no signal to monitor. Because many others have reported "dead on arrival", I thought maybe I got a bad part or damaged something (though I am very careful).

Seems it was the DDR4 memory sticks. They seemed to be set both visually and by feel -- but, they weren't. Upon setting, which took extra effort, I got boot.

I tried a minimal memory speed boost. No boot. Others have noted this too.

My BIOS is a February BIOS. A new BIOS just came out this last week that's supposed to improve memory compatibility.

All in all, it seems to be working. Now need to finish assembly. Just turn a few screws and route a few wires. Should go easily. Start again tomorrow.

Basic assembly, software installation, and tests done. In the end, there were no actual issues with the hardware -- just a couple connectors not pushed all the way in (looked and felt set but weren't -- had to push real hard). Still using the February BIOS. Running Windows 10 Pro 64bit.

My preliminary unofficial tests comparing my Ryzen 1800X (8 core/16 thread) at 3.6GHz to my FX9590 (8 core/8 thread) at 4.7GHz in Cinebench 15 CPU test:

Ryzen is 119 percent faster (2.19 times as fast) in multi thread. Ryzen is 35 percent faster in single thread.

Clock for clock Ryzen is 186 percent faster (2.86 times as fast) multi thread. Ryzen is 76 percent faster single thread.


My Samsung 960EVO m.2 SSD is slightly more than 3 times as fast as my Samsung 850EVO SSD. Indications in BIOS are it will function as C:\ system drive, but OS still on temporary HD.

Now to continue on with full assembly process.

Thumbs Up, Sounds Like Ryzen is not disappointing anyone that gives it a solid shot.

I'll try to finish loading/testing software today -- but, I have so much software and so little time I may not finish.

Only New Info:

During testing, air cooling is fine at standard clocks. I may go to less exotic water cooling because I don't need for the X1800 (95W) what I did for the FX9590 (220W).

The 500GB 960EVO SSD beats the 500GB 850EVO by the advertised amounts. 6x for sequential reads and 4x for other reads, writes.

Windows 10 is on the 960EVO. Clean install. No issues from the hardware.

Microsoft's Windows 10 installer unexpectedly changed the boot order in BIOS to an unexpected new sort of instant software-simulated-SSD (rather than hardware -- for tablets?? -- or maybe normal these days). This caused a scary hour because it skipped past normal boot screen and did not recognize any hard drives. After about an hour of trying to get into BIOS at start up, I finally succeeded. I changed it back to operating like a standard PC.

Into every life, a little rain must fall.

The special AURA lighting on my motherboard failed today. Not knowing if that was the start of something worse, I returned the motherboard to Micro Center for a replacement today. Just got back.

Everything else was installed and seemed to be working (including Steam and all my Steam games). So, I should have it running again tomorrow.

It took about 45min to carefully install and rewire the replacement motherboard and reconnect everything. Yes, I know, a fast builder can put an entire PC together in much less time

I turned it on -- and IT WORKED. All my software loads were there -- everything. I was not expecting it to be that easy. The AURA lighting that was the "problem" in the returned MB worked as it was supposed to.

FutureMark TimeSpy CPU test result: My Ryzen 1800X at 3.6GHz (standard settings -- no overclocks) was 103 percent faster (2.03 times as fast) than my FX9590 at 4.7GHz (standard settings -- no overclocks).

Clock-for-clock that makes my Ryzen 1800X 2.65 times as fast.as my FX9590. This correlates well with the CineBench 15 results reported previously.

Now to clean off my workbench and take a couple photos and bring the PC up to my home office. I'm typing this in the office on the now-old FX9590 PC.

Just saw this tidbit:

https://community.amd.com/community...s-for-building-a-better-amd-ryzen-system



The Jedi Master

Thanks. I skimmed it. Will read slower later.

Elsewhere I read do NOT flash the latest BIOS. Folks have had issues with it. So, I still use the older BIOS that came with the motherboard.

So far, I'm just running at the default settings I get with normal setup. Standard CPU clocks. Memory only 2166 at 15 CAS timing (versus nominal for this memory = 3200 at 14).

I just used CPU-Z to compare my Ryzen 1800X 3.6GHz single-thread to CPU-Z number for I7-7700K 4.2GHz single-thread. It was a virtual tie -- Ryzen = 2315, I7 = 2301. Multi-threaded Ryzen wins (of course): Ryzen = 19115, I7 = 9993. Again, these I7 numbers are the ones given by CPU-Z -- different systems will have different outcomes.

Swapping a Mainboard w/ Windows 10 should be easier than before, especially so if it's the same model/part# and even more so if it's the same BIOS Version.

Unplug everything, remove board, drop in new one, connect everything back up, enter the bios and set everything as it was, save, reboot, boom.

As far as windows is concerned, nothing has changed.

I've decided to run in the workshop for a couple days. Just in case something goes wrong, its easier to work there.

So, a couple pictures of where its at now in the workshop area. Fully working, Steam and all Steam Games installed, office applications not all installed.

Note: An old AM3 125W AMD CPU air-cooler. That's working well on the 95W Ryzen. I'll plan to upgrade to one of my water coolers before I take it upstairs.

Click to expand:

The AURA RGB lighting (visible along the left lower edge of MB above) failed again.

I've turned off the dead circuits in BIOS and using ASUS AURA App. I'll continue to use this MB -- unless more goes wrong.

Can't recommend ASUS PRIME motherboard

I remember when ASUS meant top quality and performance. Not always anymore.

Come to think of it, though, my current mobo might be an ASUS again, after many years of having Gigabytes and Asrocks and such.



The Jedi Master

My ASUS still working without AURA. Took most of the day to install virtually all of my applications. They all work well. So, I may just stick with this.

But, imperfection (failure to perform as designed) bothers me even if its not really significant (slightly nutty about that). So, I checked out Gigabyte high end. They offer more features for less money ($210) than ASUS high end ($255). However, lots of Gigabyte 1 star reviews.

The time to buy a different MB will be many weeks (or months) from today -- when they've figured things out.

Of the 7 systems I have built all have had Asus mobos. I tried a Gigabyte ONCE, it arrived DOA, one of two DOA parts I have had in all my builds.

Looking alot like hit or miss on mobos nowadays, along with sloppy/ignorant system builders who ham hand, static charge their parts into the case.... Then they give it a bad review!

Yes, I've asked myself how could this be my fault (I've always asked that question -- especially professionally). Seems funny two MB w/ two same failures -- no one else reporting this particular issue. Nonetheless, everything in "my control" that I've checked has come up "negative". And, I did "ground" myself

Like you, I build a lot of stuff (maybe one or two a year for the last 18 years -- and more occasionally). Virtually no component has been bad out of the box (a couple times). A MB failed after some time. And I broke one MB all by myself flashing the BIOS in the old days

I will remain open minded regarding motherboard brands (including ASUS). But, need to wait until the reviews are more positive and the new BIOS are released. I'm toying with the idea of buying a new MB (in a couple months) and sending this one back on RMA. I could use the resulting "repaired" ASUS in my next build -- a build which is sure to come

I did complain on-line at Amazon and Newegg. While writing this post, I have just (after finishing the above sentence) received a reply from an ASUS representative saying try the latest AURA app. If that does not work, I can RMA for up to 3 years, he/she says.

EDIT: I was already running the correct AURA app. No change.

I usually use ASUS but have also had good luck with Gigabyte and even MSI enthusiast level boards.

Recently upgraded to a Gigabyte Z270 chipset board (Aorus Gaming 7) and have been really happy with it, it had better features and component quality than the equivalent ASUS and have had no issues with it, good reviews on NewEgg and Amazon too.

So I think as long as you don't have to buy on day 0 of the MB coming out, the reviews are probably the best way to know if that particular MB is a good one or not, as long as it comes from one of the top manufacturers it seems like they all have some stinkers and some winners, depending on what they chose to do for that particular model.

I've never had any DOA components with my builds but I always use one of those anti-static bracelets when I build my systems, we had to use those in the Army when I was working on avionics/radios in the 80s so I figure why not use it when I'm working on my own stuff.

Asus and ASRock have been my goto boards for a while now.....

Possiblby a QC thing with the LEDs when they are assembling them...

I did have an issue with a "Goodnight LED" Setting in my BIOS causing my internal LEDs to Dimm and Turn off on my ASRock Boards.

Allen you build way more than I do. I certainly wasn't calling you one of those ham handed reviewers.

That ASRock mobo that SkateZ linked looked really feature packed, but very mixed reviews on the Intel version.

I didn't take it that way But, I did wonder if my reply may have implied I took it that way. Sorry.

Meanwhile, your "Avatar". Got my attention. I do use avatars in other forums. So, your avatar influenced me to put a version of my avatar here

Its up in my Office/Game room. Still needs water cooling install; but, I must alter the CPU cooler bracket.

Test results on earlier posts still hold. No overclocking yet. AURA lighting failed and still does not work.

I await a newer BIOS release.

Here are the pictures installed. In the back half of the room shot, the computer is "behind the door on the left" (I designed the room to close the door on the mess that is usually behind the doors). Stuff on the wall are low cost, entry level replicas. Swords, etc. span around 800AD to 1000AD. Firearms are Revolutionary War flintlock replicas (i.e. can't really fire them). Its all in keeping with the gaming and cheaper than buying paintings.

The computer is black and so dark its hard to see on the lower right of the closet.

Click to expand:

I ran GeekBench CPU test. It checks single thread and multi thread across a wide range of applications. All in all, given the wide range of test types it runs all at once, it seems to be a very good benchmark program.

My scores were approximately the same as they posted at their site for Ryzen 7 1800X. They were less than comparable Intel CPUs by "too much".

Possibly, GeekBench is another "standard benchmark" that uses Intel optimized compilers (or has some other issue) -- because the scores for Ryzen were way out of line, in my opinion. It will be interesting to see if some of the benchmarks are updated to accurately reflect Ryzen peculiarities -- or if Ryzen really does under perform in some cases.

Synthetic benchmarks are good for two things only:

To see if your PC is working more or less properly if you see yours match those you find online for a comparable rig
To see the improvement when upgrading from one component to an updated version of the same one--ie nvidia GPU to nvidia GPU, Intel CPU to Intel CPU, etc. Change types and you can throw their efficacy to the pi winds (there aren't exactly four of them) because of how things are done differently on the inside.

After that, it's all about how program X responds. Does game Y run better? That's all that matters.



The Jedi Master

ASUS responded to my posts (elsewhere) regarding AURA lighting failure. Their suggested fix did not work. Meantime, everything else still seems to work. Per their request, I have initiated an email exchange with ASUS to discuss the particulars of my problem. We'll see what comes of it.

There is no "visible" improvement in games. That was expected because my slower FX9590 (combined with RX480 GPU) already provided smooth (to my eyes) FPS. This build was "for the fun of doing it with new (to me) technology" -- I'm having fun

have they updated the bios w/ the new RAM Profiles?

Alot of users elsewhere are getting a bit of a performance boost w/ new bios'.

ASUS and I are working something out regarding exchanging my defective (no AURA lighting) motherboard. They agree its defective. I requested a different model ASUS motherboard in exchange (I await response on that request). I want it sent to me before I send this one back so I would not lose days/weeks without a PC (they have agreed to that).

In updating my system, I added a Netgear CM700 High Speed Cable Modem (on sale for $100) in place of the cheap TWC supplied modem. Measured up and down speeds are are about the same (a touch faster); yet, complex internet pages load "visibly" faster (may have something to do with internal buffer memory). That's what I'm looking for "visible" (as opposed to "measurable") improvements.

ASUS replied yesterday. I have to exchange for the same motherboard. That's reasonable -- but, I tried.

I think I'll "stand pat" on this motherboard and build for a few weeks (??). The motherboard has a 3 year replacement warranty -- so no real risk. And, improvements in BIOS are expected.

Currently everything works -- except for AURA lighting. At stock speeds its much faster in CPU tests than my FX9590 system and competitive with high-end Intel CPU products in most CPU tests. I'll see what develops (new BIOS, Vega, more motherboards to pick from, Windows 10 driver updates, this motherboard fails, etc) before making another "move" on this build.

Under the heading of "more motherboards to pick from": The local Micro Center got four Gigabyte AORUS GA-AX370-Gaming K7 motherboards in stock today.

The Gigabyte GA-AX370-Gaming K7 was one of my two "first choice" motherboards (the other was the high end ASUS ROG motherboard). I could not get either originally.

I bought the Gigabyte at Micro Center. I probably won't get it in before the weekend. I'll return the slightly defective ASUS Prime X370-Pro.

I haven't bought any internal parts for my PC at a physical store, other than a replacement HD at a Best Buy over a weekend when I NEEDED it ASAP about 4 years ago, in well over a decade.

In fact, the first time I bought something that had to be shipped to me was mail order back in 1995...my Pentium 90 and motherboard. Cost $950 for both. Between mail order and later the internet I'd say I've only bought about 10% of my PC parts at physical stores over 25 years now.

I guess here in Florida they just don't sell enough to make it worth their time to carry them. The last two places that carried enough parts to build a PC were Computer City, which went under ca 1999, and Incredible Universe (I think it was called that?) that went under a year or two earlier. The local Best Buy carried HDs, video and sound cards, RAM, and peripherals, but never PSUs or cases or CPUs or motherboards.

So I got to shopping online around 2003 I think and never looked back. More out of necessity than anything else.



The Jedi Master

My life has been much the same. Micro Center is only a 1.5 hour round trip -- including a few minutes in the store. But, I did not know how excellent it was at having a VERY complete selection of EVERYTHING. Kudos to Micro Center.

One "sets aside" the item on-line. They respond by email within 18 minutes (took 8 minutes in this case). I go pick up within 3 days and pay at the counter. I picked it up within 45 min.

Here's a view of the new motherboard (using on-line images) -- and one using a photo I took of my motherboard. Note 2 LAN lines and fewer USBs than the high end ASUS. Says it handles 3600MHz RAM. Apparently, that matters for Ryzen gaming -- unlike previous CPUs. We'll see. Plenty of LEDs to "go wrong" (like the ASUS). Again, we'll see.

I do "pick up at store" with online orders at places like Target, Walmart, Lowe's, and many others. If they're close and I want it today or tomorrow, that is. If I can wait two days, Amazon Prime free 2-day.

My local BB is about 30 mins each way, but I rarely go there anymore. When I moved here in 2001 it was only 15 mins each way.



The Jedi Master

I've installed the above Gigabyte AORUS GA-AX370-Gaming K7 motherboard.

It works! Worked right away. I did not have to reinstall any applications (did install motherboard-specific drivers). However, there is an error code saying that one of the two BIOS chips may not be working correctly. Good news is that I only need one to work. But, its something to look into.

So far, Windows 10 has not complained about the new motherboard. I assume it will eventually. Then, I will have to "recover" the registration for this PC.

I did one CPU benchmark and got basically the same scores as with the previous ASUS motherboard. Within 1 percent of I7 7700K for single thread and almost twice as good for multi-thread on this particular benchmark (CPU-Z).

So far, the motherboard lighting works -- it looks like the above image on the left. Nice.

I don't understand exactly: what is the lighting for? Merely aesthetics?

That is all -- merely aesthetics.

Some folks build their gaming PC with a clear side cover so that they can "see the hardware". In my case, the side cover is black metal -- so I only see it while I'm building and testing the PC.

Here's an example of "clear sided" case. Looks much like my case -- except my case has black metal sides. My case is on the right.

the LEDs are for show, lol..

I have a Clear Side mod for my HAF922, just to show off all the purrrty blue LEDs on my Lightnings...

But when your gaming or watching a movie in the dark , them flicking blue LEDs become annoying.. lol.

I have an Antec Sonata case, the original. It has two blue LEDs shining out the front of the case, but it's off to my side and I don't see them.

I have lights on my 1070 and I'm glad I have a solid cover because that would shine in my eyes if it was clear.



The Jedi Master

The concept of modding the case to see the illuminated motherboard did pass through my mind. I like the lights because as I walk past my "office area", I can immediately see if the computer is on or off by the lights. But, I've already covered that by using front case fans with LEDs.

As noted above, Windows 10 has not yet "complained" about the 3'd motherboard being "unregistered" (it did complain about the 2'd one). However, two other paid-for applications have complained.

Although they let me continue, they informed me I only had a limited amount of activations -- before I have to buy new copies. Maybe I can explain whats happened and get back an activation, or not. Just one more downside of failing motherboards (not something I've had to deal with lately).

My current build activity is to finish modifying my Swiftech water cooler to fit the PC system. My Swiftech is made of separate components, bought separately. Its powerful, but I have to "make it fit" in more ways than one.

When the water cooler is installed and running, I can experiment with overclocking (my temporary air cooler isn't effective enough for overclocking).

The water cooler is up and running.

Its a Swiftech 3 fan radiator type. The fans, water reservoir, and pump are built into a "home made" stand that sits to the right of the computer. Only the water tubes and a power connector pass to the computer. Of course, the water cooling block is in the computer on the Ryzen processor.

The build is not pretty. Its practical for my particular situation. Everything is out of most folks sight. But, I can look down and verify operation and lack of leaks.

Dropped my CPU temperature approximately 10C at idle and during stress test -- versus the previous 125W rated air cooler. Idle is 40-41C. Stress is 65C after 10 minutes or so. Room temperature is roughly 24C or more where the PC and water cooling sit.

My FX9590 220W CPU ran cooler with this exact same setup. However, there is some question about CPU temperature accuracy -- both on FX9590 and Ryzen 1800X. FX9590 may have been indicating low. Ryzen 1800X may indicate too high. Just another thing to "watch" over the next few weeks.

Ryzen has an Offset:
https://www.techpowerup.com/231473/amd-says-ryzen-1700x-1800x-have-a-temperature-reporting-offset

Thanks for the information. Yes, I just got back from a simple Google search on the same subject.

Subtract 20C from Ryzen 1800X indicated temperature.

Makes my temperatures 25C idle (in a 24C room space) and 45C stress. Much more reasonable

However, only subtract that much from a couple Ryzen part numbers. They are not all that way.

I have Windows 10 Creator's Update installed.

I have the new Gigabyte F3 BIOS installed (easy to do in BIOS -- just a couple clicks). The motherboard came with a "preliminary" F2 BIOS installed.

My first attempt to overclock the memory (which test reports say actually increases Ryzen performance) didn't work. I tried a simple minded "click" on the box in BIOS. It ostensibly tried to set up my memory to its actual specifications. Fail. I had take the cover off and reset the BIOS.

Now, since its been years since my last significant memory overclock, I have to relearn how to do it (actually, in principle, I'm not overclocking -- just trying to get the memory to run to specification). I'd like the "free" performance improvement.

shouldnt the BIOS just download the settings using AMP?

I had to do that w/ my 990FX Board for almost a year after I installed it, manually enter timings and stuff, after a year, ASRock finally added AMP Profiles to the BIOS. after that, I just had to select the profile from the memory stick,.

I tried overclocking the Ryzen 1800X. Easy peasy.

I went to 4.0GHz at stock volts -- just increased the clock speed ratio from 36 to 40. Actually, my Ryzen always hits 3.7GHz when running benchmarks even at normal 3.6GHz settings. So, boosting to 4.0 is only an 8 percent boost from its normal run speed of 3.7GHz.

Ran Prime95 maximum CPU stress/heat benchmark for about 10 minutes. Maximum CPU temperature was 61C -- on the desktop with no significant app running the CPU temperature is about 24-25C (water cooled).

As one can see in the attached CPU-Z benchmark, Ryzen CPU at 4.0GHz single threaded they say is comparable (not equal) to I7-7700K at 4.2GHz. Multi-threaded is no contest. Interestingly, in the CPU-Z single threaded test, I got nearly the same result on stock clocks -- probably because stock Ryzen runs 4.0GHz when running one thread on one core.

I tried Cinebench 15 and got 1720 multi-threaded. I looked up the historical results list on line. Ryzen 1800X at stock clocks beats almost everything else at stock clocks -- usually by a lot. Its the a couple 10 core and 2CPU x 10 core stuff that beats Ryzen. But, I don't know their actual test conditions.

I retried FireStrike Ultra 4K benchmark and Time Spy. No change in the GPU tests (maybe 1 percent at best). Got 7 percent more in Firestrike Ultra CPU and 4 percent more in Time Spy CPU. Multi-core easily blew away I7-7700K (but, you knew that ).

While all this was going on, I had an app running on another screen showing the CPU temperatures, voltages, per core wattages -- so I could get an Idea of how hard it was being pushed.

I saw that 3DMark GPU tests barely use 2 or 3 cores at low low activity (lots of jumping around cores but most cores are barely moving). So, 3DMark overall score does not test the 8core Ryzen CPU. Even on the CPU tests that nominally use all the cores, the usage was only about 90 percent of the usage when running Prime 95 stress test.

So overall, the Ryzen CPU overclocked easily. And, overclocked it puts up very competitive numbers -- almost always the best in multi-threaded against other CPUs at stock clocks; and, only the top Intel series CPUs beat it single thread -- not by a whole lot -- pretty much in proportion to their higher clocks.


Overclocking the memory is actually supposed to make a difference with Ryzen because some Ryzen internal circuitry speed is related to memory speed. So, natch, I want to overclock the memory (never much cared to do that in the past).

BUT BUT BUT -- I still am getting no memory overclock. None, nada, zip. Crashes on takeoff if I change the memory speed just a touch. I must be doing something typically incompetent -- not the first time -- that's why its "typical" for me

I'll keep looking for the solution. One possibility is that my DRAM is not compatible. But, my first choice is ME

what's the entire model number of your RAM Kit?

I know for the 990FX Boards, Overclocking Ram always required a IMC Voltage bump when Running more than 2 sticks. (4 Stick Kits). Dunno if AM4/3xx boards would require similar,

Overlocking was also a PITA in the first year or so, until they finally integrated the AMP Profile Loading and stuff.

G.SKILL TridentZ Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) Intel Z170 Platform Desktop Memory Model F4-3200C14D-32GTZKY

I did try tweaking the voltage. However, the BIOS commands are not completely clear as to what is truly being changed at a given moment. The ASUS MB I started with (now gone on RMA) had a clearer/easier to read/understand advanced BIOS interface.

The BIOS does, with one click, read the memory itself for its operating parameters and claims to set those (correctly ?). Does not work with this memory.

Lesser manual settings have not worked.

The MB has two BIOS chips. Two switches are used to have both on, or one on, and, if one, pick which one. I have one BIOS chip operating and picked (latest BIOS as of a few days ago). Maybe that's causing some issue.

Naturally, I'll accept help from folks who have already figured this one out. But, I'm not discouraged. Part of the fun is solving the problems (after they are solved ). And, I knew I was "taking a chance" buying the first products off the production line

I imagine in a couple months, buying and building will be a trouble free experience -- as products will be updated to work together -- and compatible/incompatible products will be clearly listed. My exact memory was not listed as supported. However, Much GSkill of similar type (but lower capacity) was listed as okay -- so I took a chance.

To get less than the Specified 3200MHz is not unexpected. To get no increase at all -- even to only 2400MHz is unexpected.


Edit: This problem may be related to my problem. As I get "NOTHING" when I try to boot -- dies in a few seconds.

Hooray!

I tried to reset the boot DDR4 memory voltage in BIOS. I do not know if that worked because concurrently (never do concurrent in an experiment if you really want to know -- but I'm impatient at times):

I did the "obvious" thing that I had been reluctant to do. I used the AMD Ryzen Master overclocking application by AMD. The downside is that I've admitted to overclocking. So, they've got me if I fry it.

It was easy to set memory timings and do a slight overclock from 2166 to 2400 -- that's a start. I'll see where it goes from here. Goal 3200 -- but, I'll settle for less given that I did not buy guaranteed compatibility memory.

Stream of consciousness update:

Got to 2666MHz okay. Failed at next allowed setting of nominally 3000MHz. I read that the timing on AMD Ryzen motherboards defaults to 1T and that works to 2666MHz. One must lock 2T to get above 2666GHz, in most cases. So far, I can't find that setting in the AMD app or the BIOS -- but its only been minutes of trying.

Done memory overclocking for now. So, in summary of above.

Running CPU at 4.0GHz using AMD Ryzen Master application.

Memory went from 2166MHz at 16 CAS (and other timings) to 2666MHz at 14CAS (on memory rated 3200MHz at 14CAS). I got about a 2 percent improvement in CPU performance (at best) by overclocking the memory. That's in-line with what I've read. If I could get to 3200MHz, I read that would supply about 4 percent -- equivalent to another 0.160GHz of CPU overclock.

I still need to figure out how to set timing to 2T on my motherboard -- on-line statements indicate that I could get to the full 3200MHz 14CAS if I get 2T.

In Prime95 stress test for memory stress, I got no errors. The CPU only hit 50C with all the cores at 100 percent -- the CPU set its nominal voltage to only 0.9V (down from the allowed 1.35V maximum) -- but, each core runs at a different voltage . The memory increased from 34C to 39C.

So, some slight success. I'll let it run like this for a couple days or more.

But, to state the obvious, the improvements I've noticed with overclocking are "invisible to the unaided eye", they are only "measurable". So, at some point I might just revert to stock settings -- as I usually do with my builds.

I retried the Time Spy benchmark with the overclocked memory. The memory overclock alone added 10 percent to the CPU score. The GPU score was essentially the same. Since Time Spy is "new technology" DX12, etc., its hopeful that Ryzen may out perform on newer gaming titles that need CPU power.

So, it seems the articles are correct. At times, the extra memory speed does transfer to substantially better Ryzen CPU performance. But, it depends on the test one runs.

Thanks for sharing your results, Allen. I hope to test the same in the future. I read that AMD is planning an AGESA release next month to improve DDR4 overclocking:

http://hothardware.com/news/amd-prepares-beefy-ryzen-motherboard-bios-updates#iZjsZ7P7UyOSvR8P.99

Thanks for the news and the link. Now, I know better times are coming -- soon. It helps my "peace of mind".

Got me to go to Gigabyte site to see if they already have the update. No. HOWEVER, they have a new overclocking guide for my motherboard -- that was not there before.

In brief, it says the problems I thought might be problems ARE problems. Can't easily get past 2666MHz because the 1T timing is unchangeable for now. That also puts my mind at ease because I thought I was "missing something easy".

So, thanks again

You enthusiast guys are what makes the homebrew puter world keep chugglin on.

Thanks for that....Seriously

We can't help it, it's an addiction.

Yeah Allen, good to know there are improvements coming. I'm really hoping to at least hit 3200 MHz as advertised.

Hey there.
Did you managed to get any better results? I dont know what to think about this, I have same memory sticks as you do and I just managed to run my new ryzen setup. My memory defaulted at 2133Mhz and my BIOS does not allow for any manual changes except for XMP off or on (Gigabyte AB350M). When I set it on it shows 3200Mhz (but then 2133Mhz next to it?) at 1.35V correctly but then failes 3-5 times when booting and did not show improvement in CPU-Z after launch.

As I was reading this topic my PC crashed (but not rebooted). I had to power off and reboot, it was failing to start couple times again so I went to BIOS to turn XMP off but noticed this time it showed 3200Mhz in both columns. I went to Windows and got this in CPU-Z.

I'm puzzled because you said that with 1T 3200Mhz is not available. Any ideas what happend? I'll see if my pc keeps crashing randomly (but at this point I have no idea is it RAMs fault anyway).

I quit experimenting with memory Overclock for a couple weeks. Nonetheless, I tried overclocking the memory earlier today (before seeing your post), and it failed (again). I planned to await the next BIOS before trying again.

I read your post. I tried CPUZ (again) to see what my memory was doing. I expected 2666 and 1T -- because the articles said 2T was unavailable now (need a new BIOS). The articles (and a Gigabyte MB Overclock guide said) there was no way to set 2T. But, some (not all) memory sticks need 2T to exceed 2666.

However, here's what I saw -- 2x1333 = 2666 and 2T. How did 2T happen??? Its supposed to be impossible with my MB??? Or is CPUZ giving a bad result??? Or, did "AMD Ryzen Master" do it???

As a side note: Notice that the North Bridge frequency matches the DRAM frequency. That's the "secret" why the Ryzen CPU runs faster with faster memory (I have read).





I used "AMD Ryzen Master" desktop overclocking utility to overclock (I did not directly use BIOS -- I only set BIOS memory voltage to 1.4000 by hand using BIOS as that was a suggestion to eliminate boot crashes).

When I set the MHz to 2666 or 3000 or 3200 using BIOS, the BIOS shows what I set it to and right next to that number is the previous value -- like 2666 2133 or 3000 2133. But, hand setting it in BIOS did not work for me -- it always failed to boot. However, AMD Ryzen Master worked better.

One thought, if you are getting boot crashes, maybe they will stop if you go into BIOS and set the memory voltage to 1.400 or 1.45 (like I had to do just to get 2666 to work without boot crash). Maybe (or maybe not) your memory sticks will work at 3200 with 1T after setting the voltage. If you cannot hand set the voltage on your MB, that may be whats causing your particular issue. Of course, raising the voltage by hand is always a risk -- at some point excessive voltage will cause a failure.

For those who did not know about it, here is the AMD Ryzen Master link:

https://www.amd.com/en/technologies/ryzen-master

I've attached my AMD Ryzen Master screen below. Note 4.0GHz CPU on all cores and 2666 memory speed.

For now, I don't know what's going on. If I really have 2T, then 3200 should work. I have to "look into it" some more. As noted above, maybe AMD Ryzen Master can automatically change to 2T (without telling me) even though the BIOS does not have that adjustment.

Thanks for your quick reply. I keep trying to post my results but my pc keep crashing sooner or later. This is definately memory issue at this point.

I did changed voltage to 1.35 manually (after enabling XMP which was supposed to raise it to 1.35V i set it manually anyway) and now it's booting on first go! It boots up to 2933Mhz, but fails at 3200Mhz even at 1.4V (I didn't want to push it). However pc crashed quick at 2933, so I'm trying 2660 now. I will be satisifed with 2400 which is supposed to me safe maximum for now according to this: I'll report once I get stable results.

BTW. Before I changed this manually in BIOS, i tried Gigabytes "easy tune". and it would always show me my desired frequency after reboot even when CPUZ was displaying 2133. I used HWiNFO64 to cross check results afterwars, but they were same as in CPUZ (but that was after I stopped using easy tune).

PS. I found out why it quietly reboots. My motherboard doesn't have speaker so there are no beep codes! ; )

I tried searching the internet. Found an AMD overclocking document I had not seen. But, after reading, nothing was there I had not tried.

I tried a couple more times to get the memory above 2666. They always "broke" and, each time, I had to open the case, reset the bios, and begin again.

So, what I have is basically what I showed above in the two attachments -- CPU 4.0GHz on all cores at stock volts -- DDR4 at 2666MHz at stock volts (but I've set BIOS DDR4 startup volts to 1.35 to avoid crash on boot).

I have read that folks have issues with 32GB above 2666. Some high-end 2x8GB = 16GB does work at 3200. Seems like you get farther than I do -- I get nothing on boot above 2666 (but 2666 always works).

What I read says a new BIOS is coming in May that will address some of these issues. Hopefully, it will allow 32GB DDR4 OC to 3000 or 3200. I will now wait for that BIOS before I try again.

My ASUS Prime motherboard exchange just arrived today -- back from RMA. Now I have an extra motherboard. I notice ASUS has released more BIOS versions than GigaByte -- don't know if they fix the memory OC issue described in the above posts.

To repeat above information, I had 2 ASUS Prime MB AURA lighting fails. I returned the first MB to the local store. I RMA'd the second one -- took weeks to turn around. It seems they sent me a brand new MB -- new serial number -- there are no signs of fixes or handling.

Don't know how I'll use this new RMA return ASUS MB. However, as noted above, maybe my wife will get a Ryzen sooner than planned

Just a short note:

Ryzen 1800X can easily be set up as a 2, 4, 6, or 8 (8 is default) core CPU using "AMD Ryzen Master" software (a Windows desktop application -- no BIOS changes needed).

So, if you have an "old fashioned" game that only uses 1 or 2 cores (like some popular flight simulators), its easy to set up Ryzen as a 2 core CPU -- then, at the same moment (using AMD Ryzen Master) overclock it to a higher level than you could overclock 8 cores.

The setting (along with 3 others) can be one click saved using the AMD Ryzen Master software (on the desktop). Thus, one can easily optimize their Ryzen CPU for any type of game they play -- one to eight core, one to sixteen thread.

One can also, at the same time, overclock the memory using AMD Ryzen Master and save that along with the core changes.

FWIW. Don't know if this benefit was obvious to the casual AMD follower.

Regarding new Ryzen motherboard BIOS nominally scheduled for mid-May:

The current official BIOS for my motherboard is F3 (released in early April). I found no "official" company statements regarding when a newer official BIOS will be released.

I did find a Beta BIOS F4 release and an Alpha BIOS for my Gigabyte MB -- I downloaded the F4 Beta but have not tried installation.

Based on an unofficial statement in a thread by a Gigabyte employee (who is not working on the BIOS), the final official version may be released by the end of May. I may continue to wait for an official release as I have no issues with the current BIOS other than DDR4 memory clock.

I tried the Beta BIOS. They did not advertise it as making big changes or as 1006 BIOS. No changes that I noticed in practice.

I await the 1006 BIOS for my motherboard. That's supposed to be the difference maker. We'll see.

To be clear, performance is already very good. 1006 is merely supposed to be "noticeably" better.

Hopefully, this will get my 3200MHz DDR4 to actually run at 3200MHz (its still at 2666).

As I noted in the AMD thread, I downloaded the 1006 Beta BIOS for my motherboard.

It gets me from 2666MHz to a stable 3000MHz. 3200MHz boots, starts windows 10, and runs for a while -- but is unstable, given the simple settings I used.

Also, the memory runs at 3000 and 3200 at 1T settings.

I imagine an experienced memory over clocker might get stable 3200MHz with my system. I just changed a couple voltages in a minor way and boosted the speed -- nothing special. Maybe the final BIOS coming in a couple weeks will do the job with simple settings.

HOWEVER, moving from 2666 to 3000 did not improve Ryzen CPU performance in the CPU-Z benchmark. Going from 2133 to 2666 made a very significant jump in the same benchmark.

I added a G.SKILL RIPJAWS KM780 RGB Mechanical Gaming Keyboard - Cherry MX Red with Gaming Keycaps. Cost $110 on sale. Does "everything". Easy to point and click program the individual keys. Each key color can be changed by point and click -- 16 million choices. One can make many different setups for different uses/games and push a key to load the one they want that second.

I added an AORUS THUNDER M7 GM-THUNDER M7 Black 16 Buttons 1 x Wheel USB Wired Laser 8200 dpi MMO Gaming Mouse. Cost $80. I can't see me using 16 buttons on a mouse. But, heck, I wanted something that would "never go out of date".

Next item I'll consider is an RX Vega graphics card -- due out this month. Decision depends on price/performance. My current RX480 does all I need at 1440p -- so, I'll be willing to wait for a good price/performance (but, I'd rather not wait ).

Here's my new keyboard and mouse with the color settings I've chosen. The actual colors and look of the keyboard are much nicer than they appear in this picture.

I recently updated to F5 (stable) bios. It did seem to revert some of my bios settings so as I was readjusting them (not OC related as I settled for 2133Mhz memory speed to avoid crashes) I decided to give it a go. I simply switched XMP on and left everything as default (it switches stuff automatically) and from now on I enjoy stable 2x16GB 3200Mhz at factory timings. Confirmation below after 6 passes/12h of memtest. Just a reminder, my motherboard is GA-AB350M-Gaming 3, so not a top end board by any means.

I replaced my bog-standard Thrustmaster joystick with this Gladiator joystick -- my signature lists my current Joystick collection.

I got this one particularly for X-Plane 11 ($90 on sale). It fits compactly next to my keyboard and mouse. Has electronic sensors. Copies an actual WW2 joystick shape.

Feels good. Lots of convenient programmable buttons. Recommended for X-Plane 11. But, I'm not claiming its the best ever. Just fills a need for me.

Also, for X-Plane 11: Modding an existing aircraft and making a "from scratch" higher resolution female pilot figure using Blender and CorelDraw 2017 graphics suite. I consider those applications as part of "my Gaming Build" -- because I like to mod games almost more than playing them.