#4330798 - 01/23/17 09:43 PM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Sokol1]
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Kb1rd1
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You are making a "keyboard"? - Oh Wow , I maybe stuck if you don't know how to assign the Button Matrix in MMJoy2 being one of the Guru's around here I am not "guru", just a "Google" - I know where are this or that related to "FrankenSticks". This Diode Matrix thing is really confusing, practical for a dozen of button, but for 32. Well , you are the Guru of Frankensticks for sure everywhere i go on the internet I find you have already been there and posted Your Google-Fu is great Obi-Wan I posted on the main thread too so I hope somebody knows as i think Mega-Mozg has disappeared ? or is still on holidays??? KB.
Last edited by Kbird; 01/23/17 10:29 PM.
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#4330901 - 01/24/17 09:12 AM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Kb1rd1]
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Kb1rd1
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I found this image by @Mega_Mozg_13 on page 6 of the Main Thread which shows he has a 6x6 matrix and 36 buttons seen in MMJoy2. Looking at how he has designated the Rows and Columns must mean the Columns wires are also Common to each switch and be wired in groups of 6 (10 now for the 10x10 Matrix MMjoy2 now supports) so it looks like I need to group (make common) some of my column wires somehow. KB.
Last edited by Kbird; 01/25/17 03:39 AM.
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#4330932 - 01/24/17 12:47 PM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Kb1rd1]
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Sokol1
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#4331090 - 01/24/17 07:42 PM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Kb1rd1]
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Kb1rd1
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Thanks Sokol , I am pretty sure that is what I have now , I can setup a 1x10 matrix and it works but as there are 14-15 buttons, I have 4-5 I cannot program in MMjoy2, so I need a 4x4 matrix of something similar so I can connect all 15 buttons to MMjoy2. Mega appears to have a 6x6 matrix in the image above , so I need to figure out how he wired it physically in the throttle since I may want to add more button later too.
KB.
Last edited by Kbird; 01/24/17 07:43 PM.
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#4331139 - 01/24/17 09:59 PM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Kb1rd1]
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Viper1970
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Wow, some real good drawings about the diode thing. Couldn't be a better time, cause I'm near my solder works for some of the throttles and grips I built. Have built the F-14 throttle and as I had seen some more joystick and throttle stuff lying around, I thought why not building a V-22 Osprey throttle, too? I'm crazy I know, but I'm infected with the HOTAS-Virus. I use the old pieces and put them together to get the shapes of the original thing. Not all is exact the same, but as near as possible, with exception of some extra features (original F-14 throttle has no ANT and RNG rotaries) I use. I try to make them as unremarkable as possible. Sometimes it succeeds and sometimes I'm not so happy with the result, but slowly I make improvements in the designs. Will post some pictures with the real thing and my Frankensticks to see the difference between original and fake, if all stuff is ready .
CockpitPC1: Ryzen9 5950X|64GB DDR4|512GB M2 SSD|2TB M2 SSD|Geforce RTX3090|Reverb G2|Win11Pro CockpitPC2: PhenomII X6 1100T|32GB DDR2|2x 2TB HDD|2x Geforce GTX660 SLI|Win7Pro64 ComUnitPC1: Ryzen9 3900XT|32GB DDR4|2x 2TB HDD|Geforce RTX2070|Win11 Pro ComUnitPC2: PhenomII X6 1100T|16GB DDR2|2x 2TB HDD|Geforce GTX660|Win7Pro64 ComUnitPC3: AthlonII X2 250|2GB DDR2|2TB HDD|Geforce 5950Ultra|2x VoodooII SLI|WinXPPro32&WinME ComUnitPC4: K6-2+|768MB SDR|640GB HDD|Geforce 256DDR|VoodooI|Win98SE
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#4331141 - 01/24/17 10:20 PM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Kb1rd1]
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Viper1970
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O.k. here is the work of the last days. Left to right: F/A-18 like throttle, F-15/A-10 hybrid, F-14 throttle. They use all the same base and will also be interchangeable, like my grips. The only throttle with its own base is my F-16/AV-8B hybrid, cause of the design of the F-16 throttle grip. All not painted yet and not sanded, some details are missing also (e.g. covers left and right on the rocker switch of F-14 throttle), but the main work is done.
CockpitPC1: Ryzen9 5950X|64GB DDR4|512GB M2 SSD|2TB M2 SSD|Geforce RTX3090|Reverb G2|Win11Pro CockpitPC2: PhenomII X6 1100T|32GB DDR2|2x 2TB HDD|2x Geforce GTX660 SLI|Win7Pro64 ComUnitPC1: Ryzen9 3900XT|32GB DDR4|2x 2TB HDD|Geforce RTX2070|Win11 Pro ComUnitPC2: PhenomII X6 1100T|16GB DDR2|2x 2TB HDD|Geforce GTX660|Win7Pro64 ComUnitPC3: AthlonII X2 250|2GB DDR2|2TB HDD|Geforce 5950Ultra|2x VoodooII SLI|WinXPPro32&WinME ComUnitPC4: K6-2+|768MB SDR|640GB HDD|Geforce 256DDR|VoodooI|Win98SE
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#4331145 - 01/24/17 10:42 PM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Kb1rd1]
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Sokol1
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... but I'm infected with the HOTAS-Virus. For sure. Paint with "Paint Dip".
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#4331146 - 01/24/17 10:55 PM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Kb1rd1]
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Viper1970
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Ha you brought me an idea! Anyone ever made anything with rubber coating spray? Is it abrasion-proof? Could be a solution to save some of the sanding works, which are really painfull. Have made two grips and worked for hours to get them finished. You have to remove all the buttons again and I use sanding surface spray as base coat. But it's really a hard work. Maybe the rubber coating could save some time (O.k buttons have still to be removed, but the sanding has not be as excact )?
Last edited by Viper1970; 01/24/17 11:05 PM.
CockpitPC1: Ryzen9 5950X|64GB DDR4|512GB M2 SSD|2TB M2 SSD|Geforce RTX3090|Reverb G2|Win11Pro CockpitPC2: PhenomII X6 1100T|32GB DDR2|2x 2TB HDD|2x Geforce GTX660 SLI|Win7Pro64 ComUnitPC1: Ryzen9 3900XT|32GB DDR4|2x 2TB HDD|Geforce RTX2070|Win11 Pro ComUnitPC2: PhenomII X6 1100T|16GB DDR2|2x 2TB HDD|Geforce GTX660|Win7Pro64 ComUnitPC3: AthlonII X2 250|2GB DDR2|2TB HDD|Geforce 5950Ultra|2x VoodooII SLI|WinXPPro32&WinME ComUnitPC4: K6-2+|768MB SDR|640GB HDD|Geforce 256DDR|VoodooI|Win98SE
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#4331204 - 01/25/17 03:47 AM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Kb1rd1]
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Kb1rd1
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Nice Viper 1970 , You really should Start a thread on your Pit Build I am sure Others will be interested and they would not find your Info and photos here on this thread easily. Some plastics do not like Etching Primer (acid base) not sure about TM HOTAS's (ABS's?) but Rustoleum and Duplicolor (spellings?) make Plastic Primers , if it says sandable ,that usually means it has fillers and is a little heavier to fill micro imperfections etc. Rubber coating spray they use for vehicles is for metal , used like a rock-guard on rocker panels, so I am not sure about it on Plastic either , an automotive paint store could maybe tell you since bumpers etc nowadays are made of plastic alot. KB.
Last edited by Kbird; 01/25/17 07:29 AM.
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#4331213 - 01/25/17 04:30 AM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Kb1rd1]
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Kb1rd1
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I found this image by @Mega_Mozg_13 on page 6 of the Main Thread which shows he has a 6x6 matrix and 36 buttons seen in MMJoy2.
Looking at how he has designated the Rows and Columns must mean the Columns wires are also Common to each switch and be wired in groups of 6 (10 now for the 10x10 Matrix MMjoy2 now supports) so it looks like I need to group (make common) some of my column wires somehow.
KB.
Okay I have figured it out I think, basically it is just my lack of Electronics background and my 1st time doing a Mod like this My images of the homemade Keyboard soldering earlier in the thread and looking last night at the Image by Mega_Mozg of his MMJoy2 configuration with a 6x6 Matrix made me realise it was a Wiring issue in the TQS... NOT a MMjoy2 Configuration Issue. I then looked at the wiring scheme Sokol posted of the F22+TQS on a BU0386 Board closely (Blown up/zoomed) and could see how the Rows and Columns were physically wired, and noted that no Switch was on the same Column as any other Switch in it's "group" or Row. (insert lightbulb emoticon here) So I came up with my own 4x4 matrix wiring scheme which seems to work but I am not 100% sure admittedly that it is "electronically correct". Note: I also had to move the Row off pin #13 (C7) to #11 (B7) as it would not stop blinking the yellow LED on the Leonardo with my wiring scheme, some research of the blinking issue revealed that pin 13 is traditional an Output Pin and best not used for this , I am guessing in a Button Matrix it is constantly polled as the matrix is scanned causing the LED to Flash? Below is a scan of My Scheme Notes with the two blow ups of the Bodnar BU0386 Wiring scheme too. My scheme is not finished I need to add a Rotary (en)Coder (RC at top of scheme) and perhaps a few more Buttons to the TQS Base but so far it is only "proofed" on the Breadboard but it seems okay, I'm just wondering now if I have messed up the Diode direction or anything else? The Diodes are in the Column wires with the Stripe towards the switch BTW I did not draw that on the scheme however. KB. Had I looked at SolderMonkey's Pic of the Diode Alignment in the light of a "button matrix" instead of just at the Diodes, I would of noticed he also indicated the Wiring for the proper Button Matrix hook up for this 4x2 Matrix too.... Thx S.M.
Last edited by Kbird; 01/25/17 07:41 AM.
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#4331276 - 01/25/17 12:46 PM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Kb1rd1]
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Sokol1
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I see (on Web) mouse painted with Plasti Dip. I paint a modified Tm WCS. Apply a protector liquid (forget name) to prepare the plastic surface, then conventional primmer, ordinary black paint, and latter apply a coat of gloss enamel. Since no Plasti Dip in this "corneroftheworld", to achieve a textured surface the last paint cover is sprayed from distance, resulting in a "sand" surface. That guy who used make left hand CH HOTAS in the past use Rust-Oleum paint to achieve a textured surface.
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#4331519 - 01/26/17 12:35 AM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Kb1rd1]
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Kb1rd1
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@Erichos was kind enough on the Main MMJoy2 thread to redo my TQS Wiring Scheme above for the electronically inclined, see this Post Erichos's Post Below I have reposted the images and text for anyone following this thread in the future too... All Credits to ErichosHi Kbird, I only recommend you use version [20160818upd1] but as I said button matrix must work at any version. I looked at your scheme, sorry but it is not very transparent :-) so I redrew it without changes and I hope it is clearer now, maybe :-) Here is your scheme But Note the 1N4148 Diodes inline in the column wires facing the Switch are not shown:**Edit this image was also posted by Erichos Important thing is to set MMJoy2 correctlySo connect your Arduino and click "Load sets from device". Then we start setting.Step 1: set which pins you use for ROWS and COLUMNS Step 2: click "Save sets to device" from now if you push any button you have to see red square with number 01-132 on the left side of MMJoy2 window (there is 01 in my picture because I pushed button connected between ROW1 and COL1 and press "PrintScreen" on keyboard) Step 3: now you can set which H/W.Button will be displayed as button in Windows. Doesn`t matter if H/W.Button 01 will be Joystick button 05 or 25... It is up to you. But OS Windows knows only 32 buttons and 1 HAT so SUM=36 buttons. Step 2: again send your settings to Arduino Now you click on the left-down "Windows Joystics" and then "Properties" and must see this: If you push the button 01 you have to see red square with number 01 on the left side of MMJoy2 window and red circle button 01 in joystick properties window. That`s all :-) I hope you do it now. Read more: http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4331393#ixzz4Wp6Yaka3 KB
Last edited by Kbird; 01/26/17 12:47 AM.
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#4332165 - 01/27/17 10:21 PM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Kb1rd1]
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Viper1970
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Hello, thanks for your references. Have decided not to use plastic dip, cause it's made for easy remove also. Not a good solution for a grip you have in your hands for hours. Think the coat will not stay long on the handle. So I will do it my old way with filler ( hours of sanding the fine shapes ) and simple car paint, black matt. After this the lettering has to be done and as finish I will take a matt clear paint, so that the lettering is fixed. My homebase is "Fursty" (Fürstenfeldbruck) near Munich in Bavaria (Germany). Half an hour distance to the "Oktoberfest" . You can get all materials here, but in Germany materials are often really expensive, specially in our building centers. I will make a seperate thread soon, if more is ready for showing (painted). Have finished the body shell of my V-22A throttle today and begun with the F/A-18/AV-8B grip handle. My girlfriend screems "Who needs twenty stick and throttle for flightsimulation" so I decided to make an F/A-18/AV-8B combi stick with changeable Coolie and castle hat switches (only difference between the two). Have used small neodym magnets for this. One grip reduced, so only 19, no more need for crying . Joking apart, I ever wanted to have the right feeling of the bird you are flying. At first I only wanted to have one side stick controller and one center stick to be changeable. Then I heard of the new AV-8B in Falcon BMS 4.3 and of Combat Air Patrol 2. So the idea of a Harrier like control came to my mind. As I have collected a lot of defect Suncom and Thrustmaster sticks and throttles from ebay the last years, I decided to use this stuff and make some more HOTAS for the major fighters and helicopters. They are not exact copies, cause I have to make some agreements in case of my budget and the things that are possible under this circumstances, but as close as I can do it with my possibilities. I hope it gives a little bit more realism to the flying in my universal cockpit. If I had much, much more money, I had a seperate room with a cockpit for every single aircraft, but this will be a dream for the rest of my life.
CockpitPC1: Ryzen9 5950X|64GB DDR4|512GB M2 SSD|2TB M2 SSD|Geforce RTX3090|Reverb G2|Win11Pro CockpitPC2: PhenomII X6 1100T|32GB DDR2|2x 2TB HDD|2x Geforce GTX660 SLI|Win7Pro64 ComUnitPC1: Ryzen9 3900XT|32GB DDR4|2x 2TB HDD|Geforce RTX2070|Win11 Pro ComUnitPC2: PhenomII X6 1100T|16GB DDR2|2x 2TB HDD|Geforce GTX660|Win7Pro64 ComUnitPC3: AthlonII X2 250|2GB DDR2|2TB HDD|Geforce 5950Ultra|2x VoodooII SLI|WinXPPro32&WinME ComUnitPC4: K6-2+|768MB SDR|640GB HDD|Geforce 256DDR|VoodooI|Win98SE
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#4332171 - 01/27/17 10:59 PM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Viper1970]
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Joined: Dec 2016
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Kb1rd1
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Hello, thanks for your references. Have decided not to use plastic dip, cause it's made for easy remove also. Not a good solution for a grip you have in your hands for hours. Think the coat will not stay long on the handle. So I will do it my old way with filler ( hours of sanding the fine shapes ) and simple car paint, black matt. After this the lettering has to be done and as finish I will take a matt clear paint, so that the lettering is fixed. My homebase is "Fursty" (Fürstenfeldbruck) near Munich in Bavaria (Germany). Half an hour distance to the "Oktoberfest" . You can get all materials here, but in Germany materials are often really expensive, specially in our building centers. Are you talking about AutoBody filler like Bondo? (acrylic 2 part filler) , it would work well but for finer work I like Auto Glazing Putty better for small scratches etc it is easier to smooth out and to sand out ,works great on MDF (FiberBoard) etc too Bondo Glazing Putty http://bondo.com/products/automotive/bod...2CbUUHtoYETh.97Bondo Filler http://bondo.com/products/automotive/body-filler/bondo-filler-261.html#V2TbepciKhwUyK6R.97KB
Last edited by Kbird; 01/27/17 11:28 PM.
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#4332172 - 01/27/17 11:22 PM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Kb1rd1]
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,179
Viper1970
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It's a spay, but not a normal base coat. It's called " Spritzspachtel" here in Germany. I used it a lot in my time as car mechanic, as I refurbished oldtimers. It's "stronger than base coat and can fill many small scratches easy. You can use it at metall, but also at plastics ( never make to thick layers, cause they will easy crumble ).
We used it a lot at GFK (glass fibre) parts of "angry tuned" beetles, those days.
Last edited by Viper1970; 01/27/17 11:31 PM.
CockpitPC1: Ryzen9 5950X|64GB DDR4|512GB M2 SSD|2TB M2 SSD|Geforce RTX3090|Reverb G2|Win11Pro CockpitPC2: PhenomII X6 1100T|32GB DDR2|2x 2TB HDD|2x Geforce GTX660 SLI|Win7Pro64 ComUnitPC1: Ryzen9 3900XT|32GB DDR4|2x 2TB HDD|Geforce RTX2070|Win11 Pro ComUnitPC2: PhenomII X6 1100T|16GB DDR2|2x 2TB HDD|Geforce GTX660|Win7Pro64 ComUnitPC3: AthlonII X2 250|2GB DDR2|2TB HDD|Geforce 5950Ultra|2x VoodooII SLI|WinXPPro32&WinME ComUnitPC4: K6-2+|768MB SDR|640GB HDD|Geforce 256DDR|VoodooI|Win98SE
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#4332190 - 01/28/17 12:24 AM
Re: F16-FLCS + TQS (Original) USB Conversion
[Re: Kb1rd1]
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Kb1rd1
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I didn't know the Harrier was in BMS too ...interesting ......are you saying I need to convert my second FLCS to a Harrier look alike I am sure people would like to see the Pit Build and what you are doing too , not just the final "pretty" HOTAS's in a nice Row Well at least your Girlfriend is no# 20 not no# 21 on your list now , that will make things better don't have that issue here...especially with a Dining table looking like this.... KB.
Last edited by Kbird; 01/28/17 12:26 AM.
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