Thanks Sokol1, I tried to load the firmware multiple times but can't get the board to be recognzied as a boot loader. The symptoms are below:
On inital plug into a USB port,eventually 3 items show up as shown in the attachment.
When trying to upload the firmware on the Micro card (RobotDyn Micro ATmega32U4-MU). Windows sees it in device manager as a Arduino Micro on com5. When I press the reset button, device manager refreshes for just a second still showing the Arduino Micro on Com5 the lights go out on the Micro, then blink back on, Device manager refreshes a second time again showing the Arduino Micro still on Com5. I never see the Arduino as a boot loader device for 8 seconds like I'm supposed to.
I have pressed reset mulitple times as the thread states it make take a few tries but still no luck.
I have moved it to different USB ports on the same laptop, I have tried to do this in a different laptop and I have even opened another unit (exact same one, i ordered 3) in thinking that maybe I had a bad unit. All are recognized in Device manager, but all stay the same during the reset process.
I figured it out...I needed to hit the reset button twice. The instructions from github MMJOY wiki said this:
"To turn service mode on, we must perform the following actions:
#####On ProMicro board Briefly short GND and RST pins #####On Leonardo and Micro boards Preset RESET button",
So I only pressed the reset button once.
While looking around at some other sites about issues with the Pro Micro I remembered the instructions from Simpits.org.
The instructions from simpits.org that cover downloading firmware to the Pro Micro talked about touching the wires twice....I thought, maybe I need to hit reset twice....
Booom. All good now. Hit reset twice and the bootloader is visible in Device Manager for 8 seconds....
any way to verify that the board is communicating with the PC via MMJOYSETUP.EXE? Before the Firmware update I had a green led and two blue leds lit...not after the firmware update I only have a green ledlit on my Micro. Is that normal?
Now you need "fill" your joystick controller parameters - the firmware came 'blank", for this use MMjoySetup.
In this software you define how many axes is used (up to 8), how many buttons (up to 128), your "joystick" name - where now is 'MMjoy2" and their VID/PID*... after press the button "SAVE SETTINGS FOR DEVICE", and after the device reboot you now have a "joystick" visible in Windows Games controllers.
* VID/PID is set in 8888/8888, change this for a lower number, example 0001/0001 for make this joystick visible for windows before other controllers.
When set the Arduino for Throttle use a high number, eg. 0010/0010.
After every time you need change any parameter of your new joystick in MMjoySetup, you need reset this VID/PID number first or change then for another, because Windows keep the first number in heir Register and don't "see" the new - but the controller remain visible in games.
Hey Sokol1, I still don't have anything hooked up to the board yet. I should have been more clear in my question. I'm asking if there is a way to verify that the board downloaded the firmware without anything hooked up to it yet.
I figured it out...I needed to hit the reset button twice. The instructions from github MMJOY wiki said this:
"To turn service mode on, we must perform the following actions:
#####On ProMicro board Briefly short GND and RST pins #####On Leonardo and Micro boards Preset RESET button",
So I only pressed the reset button once.
While looking around at some other sites about issues with the Pro Micro I remembered the instructions from Simpits.org.
The instructions from simpits.org that cover downloading firmware to the Pro Micro talked about touching the wires twice....I thought, maybe I need to hit reset twice....
Booom. All good now. Hit reset twice and the bootloader is visible in Device Manager for 8 seconds....
you are beginning to make me wonder if you READ what I post ..... ie just yesterday ......geez.....
Use the 2016-8-18 Firmware , it is currently the one with the least Bugs although there was one newer (2016-18-11?), you can load it to the Micro anytime , if a single tap of the reset button does not work , try a double tap .....have Device Manager Open so you can see it change Ports ( to bootloader mode) and them quickly hit the upload Firmware button in MMjoy , as you only get 8 seconds.
Windows requires a Joystick to have two axis so just assign any pin to the axis for X and Y temporarily or if you know you are using F4 and F5 just do that . I was not aware of that requirement when I 1st uploaded the MMJoy Firmware.
The Micro no longer has an Arduino Bootloader perse and RobotDyn may have already loaded the "Blink" Sketch for testing so the lights may not be the same anymore...... you can check your others with the Arduino IDE , it's worth installing anyway to update Drivers etc if not already done.
Hey KB, Don't lose faith in me...I just read too fast and skimmed. I'm listening to you. You've been really helpful and I wouldn't have gotten this far w/o you.
I have the 20160818 loaded.
so I can assign F5 and F4 in MMJOYSETUP utility without having the TM/FLCS actually hooked up to the micro board yet? I'll have to look where to do that in MMJOYSETUP.
"
The Micro no longer has an Arduino Bootloader and RobotDyn may have already loaded the "Blink" Sketch for testing so the lights may not be the same ...... you can check your others with the Arduino IDE , it's worth installing anyway to update Drivers etc if not already done."
Where did you find that out about the Micro not having an Arduino Bootloader? I went to RobotDyn's web page for the Micro I bought and they said that there was more info on the getting started page but I couldn't find that. I'll look for the Arudino IDE to see what that is.
I've got the pins soldered in. see attached pics.
For the ICSP header, the pics that I've seen show it like I currently have it placed, i.e. it's placed opposite the other pins, is that the correct way to do it?
I've got the DuPont jumpers ordered and am waiting for them before I go ahead and connect the FLCS to the board.
Hey Sokol1, I'm asking if there is a way to verify that the board downloaded the firmware without anything hooked up to it yet.
With Arduino plugged on USB open MMjoySetup.exe, if you see there - at left/top - an "MMJReset" (or similar name), firmware was loaded successfully.
Then, fill the "joystick" parameters as above. You should care in hook buttons, pot's, only after have a functional "joystick" in Windows Games Controllers.
BTW - Don't bother with ICSP header, you don't need this for MMjoy2 (remember the KISS).
Hey KB, Don't lose faith in me...I just read too fast and skimmed. I'm listening to you. You've been really helpful and I wouldn't have gotten this far w/o you.
LAST CHANCE ! ...... if you skim read you WILL not get all the naunces of the information....reading it 2-3 times usually helps.... this I know from my own experience.....
I have the 20160818 loaded.
so I can assign F5 and F4 in MMJOYSETUP utility without having the TM/FLCS actually hooked up to the micro board yet? I'll have to look where to do that in MMJOYSETUP.
YES....back to the WIKI for a how too and then the main thread with those questions.... as mentioned in the 1st post I started on page 109 on that thread and asked tonnes of questions over there..., not sure if all the info made it to this thread or not? but the guys over there know way more than me about MMjoy and electronics in general , I wouldn't have finished without them....
Where did you find that out about the Micro not having an Arduino Bootloader? I went to RobotDyn's web page for the Micro I bought and they said that there was more info on the getting started page but I couldn't find that. I'll look for the Arudino IDE to see what that is.
It has a bootloader perse but since the FIRMWARE is loaded windows sees it as a USB Composite device now, not an Arduino Board... the IDE is now at version 1.85, it's free ....it is how ALL Arduino Boards are usually Programmed with what are called "Sketches" (programs) , you other Micros will still show are Arduinos if the Firmware is loaded on them yet... .
For the ICSP header, the pics that I've seen show it like I currently have it placed, i.e. it's placed opposite the other pins, is that the correct way to do it?
I dont think it matters but doing it that way will make it harder to sit down flat I'm thinking , not sure if it's an issue though....mine came soldered in that way ...but i have not used them yet , so not sure....
I've got the DuPont jumpers ordered and am waiting for them before I go ahead and connect the FLCS to the board.
Did your Order the same Stripper as Tazz? like I have ? I like them ...... I found a DMM with a Continuity function was really helpful too and since my old DMM didn't have one I ended up buying the Uni-T 139C on Amazon too , both it and the Uni-T 210E are hackable /modable using an Ardunio to re-program them if you want to as well, eg longer back light , making DC Voltage 1st , increasing the range count etc.
Two Micro Pins Outs From the Wiki ...one Pic and a PDF too which I prefer full page for printing....making notes on etc.... it's easy to lose track so keep notes especially on the TQS......
With Arduino plugged on USB open MMjoySetup.exe, if you see there - at left/top - an "MMJReset" (or similar name), firmware was loaded successfully.
Then, fill the "joystick" parameters as above. You should care in hook buttons, pot's, only after have a functional "joystick" in Windows Games Controllers.
BTW - Don't bother with ICSP header, you don't need this for MMjoy2 (remember the KISS).
Hey Sokol1, I get the MMJRest so it looks like it's loaded the firmware. I loaded F4 and F5 for the Axis as KB suggested above. Windows shows up the MMJRest as a joystick, but gives an error if I try to calibrate it, which, I'm going to assume is normal since there is no physical joystick connected yet.
LAST CHANCE ! ...... if you skim read you WILL not get all the naunces of the information....reading it 2-3 times usually helps.... this I know from my own experience..... I'll try and read slower...
YES....back to the WIKI for a how too and then the main thread with those questions.... as mentioned in the 1st post I started on page 109 on that thread and asked tonnes of questions over there..., not sure if all the info made it to this thread or not? but the guys over there know way more than me about MMjoy and electronics in general , I wouldn't have finished without them....
Read up on the WIKI on how to do this and think I have it done correctly.
It has a bootloader perse but since the FIRMWARE is loaded windows sees it as a USB Composite device now, not an Arduino Board... the IDE is now at version 1.85, it's free ....it is how ALL Arduino Boards are usually Programmed with what are called "Sketches" (programs) , you other Micros will still show are Arduinos if the Firmware is loaded on them yet... .
I'm running Windows 7 and I don't think the current version will on Windows 7. says it requires Windows 8 or 10. I'll look for earlier version that runs on Windows 7.
DuPont jumpers arrived today. I'm going to start making some pigtails for the multiple connections to ground and power. I'm also going to mock up where I think the connections should all go based on what I've read and let you guys comment.
I dont think it matters but doing it that way will make it harder to sit down flat I'm thinking , not sure if it's an issue though....mine came soldered in that way ...but i have not used them yet , so not sure....
Agreed. Per Sokol1's advice, I think I'm just going to leave the ICSP Header disconnected for now.
Did your Order the same Stripper as Tazz? like I have ? I like them ...... I found a DMM with a Continuity function was really helpful too and since my old DMM didn't have one I ended up buying the Uni-T 139C on Amazon too , both it and the Uni-T 210E are hackable /modable using an Ardunio to re-program them if you want to as well, eg longer back light , making DC Voltage 1st , increasing the range count etc.
No, different one. That's the last piece I'm waiting for. Will be here tomorrrow. so depending on what happens this weekend I may have everthing done...I have two DMMs here, so I think I'm good on that front.
Two Micro Pins Outs From the Wiki ...one Pic and a PDF too which I prefer full page for printing....making notes on etc.... it's easy to lose track so keep notes especially on the TQS......
Thx, will do. I have multiple sheets printed out and haging on the wall now for reference.
You may need some of the input on the ICSP Header if you intend to use TLE 5010 Boards too ...have a look around and see if you can solder all pins from the same side if you think it wont fit the other way. I actually replaced my headers on the Leonardo's with Right Angle Pins to make them "lie flat" on the board. as it was a tight fit, not sure if that is another option for you?
You can set your Own USB Name and PID and VID in MMjoy at top right ..... Eg FLCS with a PID of 0100 and VID 0200 Keeping no#s low will mean they come 1st in MMjoy and the Windows Game Controller Applet.
PID = Manufacturer (Slarti ) and VID is Unique Device Code for each Board
Thx KB, Attached is my view of how the pinout should look based on my reading. If this is good, then I'll likely start tonight or tomorrow.
Looks Okay to me ...... just want to make sure you are aware that you can use ANY Digital Pin (labelled BM in MMjoy Images) for DATA or CS/SR Wires as long as you set and assign them properly in MMJoy on the Joysticks Buttons Tab and don't forget to set the number of SR Chips (3) and their Type (4021) on the Tab too. (see mine below)
Pot Wiper Wires must go to (Any) Pins Labelled AI , ( most use F0-F7 though) then assign them on the Joysticks Axis Tab as needed (see mine below)
Okay the above Info led me to Update your Pic for Others in the future ................(see below)
I don't know why but I thought that I'd read somewhere that F7 was dedicated to Shift Registers...so that's not true then, correct? The Shift Register can go anywhere that has a "bm" designation?
also, from reading, the Pots don't care which side I choose as hot (5v) and which side I choose as ground, correct?
EDIT: Looking at your MMJOY shots, I think I understand the pots section, but I'm a little lost on teh button section. I gotta read up on the MMJOYSETUP tutorial more.
I don't know why but I thought that I'd read somewhere that F7 was dedicated to Shift Registers...so that's not true then, correct? The Shift Register can go anywhere that has a "bm" designation?
You were likely looking at something I posted...I use F7 for my Handle SR now, I had an issue with mine and other components in my stick as I have 2xTLE5010 and another SR Board with 16 inputs too
also, from reading, the Pots don't care which side I choose as hot (5v) and which side I choose as ground, correct?
MMjoy allows you to "Invert" the Pot Direction with a checkbox if needed. I tried to Wire mine per the example pics below but found I had to invert some of them in MMjoy anyway to get them to act as I wanted in the Windows Game Controller Applet, but on the FLCS I was using them as RNG and ANT pots (a substitute for the TQS) since I have the TLE5010 on the joystick Axis's
EDIT: Looking at your MMJOY shots, I think I understand the pots section, but I'm a little lost on teh button section. I gotta read up on the MMJOYSETUP tutorial more.
Once you have it hooked up and the SR chips set you have to go through each button on the stick , look for the red numbered button when depressed ,and then under the H/W Button Column assign that number to the Button number desired under Joystick Column I don't think you have any encoders or need special button modes for the TQS... at least at 1st. Once those 20+ buttons are assigned you must then "save sets to device" to update the Firmware. you'll then need to reselect the FLCS at the top to update the USB list and be able to see the button etc again. then test stuff in VKB Button Testor so you can confirm it is outputting the numbers correctly ...the Windows Game Controller Applet can do that too but only sees 32 buttons AFAIK, VKB will see upto 128.
Thank you for the photos, I'm restoring a stick to and your documentation help a ton because my tqs was in pieces when I got it. Per my pm, I'm not converting my stick to usb because I'm using it on an old machine. I might later but for now I have it mostly working under windows 98 as it was originally manufactured and intended.
Since your stick doesn't use the swf22 , do you still have it? You seem to be pretty versed with the electronics, I was curious if you would be able to dump the contents of the chip if you did?
SWF22 chips firmware is certainly protected against copy.
I use then in the past, they make set that "press joy buttons to press keyboards keys" more easy - but I don't like this and don't use in IL-2:46 because gosh key press still happen with this SWF22 or due the software.
Latter I sell this chips for a guy and stick and throttle are disassembled there in a box, never consider that FF22PRO heavy springs gimbal with lots of play deserve the work for do a modernization, besides their "F-16'ish" grip is not the most convenient for play WW2 flight games, my preference.
I've never regretted buying a joystick as much as this F-22PRO - cost me at time $400 + ~80 of chips.
Thank you for the photos, I'm restoring a stick to and your documentation help a ton because my tqs was in pieces when I got it. Per my pm, I'm not converting my stick to usb because I'm using it on an old machine. I might later but for now I have it mostly working under windows 98 as it was originally manufactured and intended.
Since your stick doesn't use the swf22 , do you still have it? You seem to be pretty versed with the electronics, I was curious if you would be able to dump the contents of the chip if you did?
I have the FLCS not F22 were the SW Chips the same? but as Sokol mentioned I am dubious of "dumping" the firmware , not that I know how..... my Electronics knowledge is on these pages I am basically a electronics Script Kiddie if it wasn't for the Guys here I would never have finished this conversion. I don't remember the Chips making that much difference , but it has been many years now....
Why doesn't USB work in win98? is there a Driver issue with Arduino going back that far? cos I thought the MMJoy Firmware just made it look like a USB HID device?
Is there any information or photos you need I maybe able to add to the thread for you and Others?
..... ie just yesterday ......geez.....
I'm listening to you. You've been really helpful and I wouldn't have gotten this far w/o you.
