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#4249918 - 04/15/16 01:42 PM Re: MMJoy - Build your own USB controller ***** [Re: Sokol1]  
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#4250095 - 04/16/16 01:22 AM Re: MMJoy - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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After all, resistor in TLE5010/111 board are needed or not?
In the boards draw by CAPIAINBLOOD this resistors are placed.

In ENCODER board are resistors and capacitors, but their values are not informed.

#4250691 - 04/18/16 07:13 PM Re: MMJoy - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Can someone explain or collect to what do I need for my TM F 16 FLCS+TQS ?
Which panel , program , firmware ect.
Can I use Hall sensor A1302.
Which part can I use the original elektronic? What is the shift register or TLE 5010?

#4250708 - 04/18/16 08:05 PM Re: MMJoy - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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This joy & throttle combo need a USB controller with at least 5 axis: 2 for joy X, Y, 1 for throttle, 1 anthena, 1 for range.

Or 7 if you plan use a PS2 mini-stick (2 axis) for replace the "IBM" mouse under thumb in throttle leaving the TQS like Cougar TQS.

For the 1st case the Arduino PRO Micro is sufficient, for the 2nd you need a board that allow more axes input (PRO Micro is limited to 6), e.g. Teensy 2.0.

Or use one PRO Micro inside the joy and one inside the TQS, leaving the controllers independent. Samples: http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2725761&postcount=4

Firmware is MMjoy2 - link for the last revision available in first topic of this thread.

Read two post above your the inconvenient of A1302 HALL sensor.

The only part of original electronics that you will reuse is the Shift Register board inside F22 grip.
Remove the other circuit boards but leave buttons, HAT, wires and his connector in place.

TLE5010 is contactless sensor (for automotive industry), in practical terms work in joystick similar to HALL sensor, reading a magnet field, but is more easy to setup. Need assembly in small PCB with resistors and capacitors.

Sample, installed in Cougar TQS: http://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/topic/3027-mmjoy2-i-thrustmaster/page-2#entry322826





Last edited by Sokol1; 04/18/16 08:16 PM.
#4250822 - 04/19/16 08:18 AM Re: MMJoy - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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So If I understand well. If I use 2 pro micro each device and I don't want to use drivers or mmjoy2 program then It works plug and play whith directx buttons?
And can I use in same time both device in one game If they connect different USB port?
The pro micro has 5 analoge axis? So I can use PS2 mini stick in the throttle and I can connect to joy one plusz rudder with toe break?
The F16 FLCS shift regiszter is same as the F22? I don't have to modify in the original grip if I use this ?
Does the mmjoy2 program use macros or pinkyshift button ?

Where can I find the original connecting shematic because I cut out my wire in the grip.

I could replace only the original potmeter with TLE5011 ? A such device where I only change the potmeter ? Becouse normal pot has 3 wire TLE5011 has 5 If I see well.

Unfortunately,I can't see the pictures on the russian web page on the cougar TQS or other . I don't understand russian languages and I 'm not sign up on those page.

#4250912 - 04/19/16 04:17 PM Re: MMJoy - Build your own USB controller [Re: Repvez]  
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Originally Posted By: Repvez
So If I understand well. If I use 2 pro micro each device and I don't want to use drivers or mmjoy2 program then It works plug and play whith directx buttons?


Yes, but first ou need use the MMJoy2 JoySetup program one time, to define device name (e.g. Repvez TQS) wink , VID/PID, how many axis, buttons, encoders (optionally)... will use in each controller, after the controller became PnP and use Windows HID drivers.

Quote:

And can I use in same time both device in one game If they connect different USB port?


Yes, each require a USB port, and based in VID/PID set is seem by Windows/Games as Joy1, Joy2, etc...

Quote:

The pro micro has 5 analoge axis? So I can use PS2 mini stick in the throttle and I can connect to joy one plusz rudder with toe break?


PRO Micro has pins for 6 axis inputs - can be more if you use a external ADC, eg. MCP3208 plugged in PRO Micro, this allow use 8 axis (8 axis is Windows limit per USB Controller), other Arduino boards has pins for 8 axes inputs.

Quote:

The F16 FLCS shift regiszter is same as the F22? I don't have to modify in the original grip if I use this ?


Yes, you use the grip in his original form, just plug the 5 wires cable that come from grip in PRO Micro board.

For the throttle you need use one diode in one pin of each buttons/HAT.
Or assemble other Shift Register board using CD4021B or 74HC165 mc, is need board with 2 mc, each control 8 buttons.
TQS has 10 buttons.

Quote:

Does the mmjoy2 program use macros or pinkyshift button ?

No, for program macros you need a external keymapper program, e.g. Joy2Key, Xpadder, SVMaper...

MMjoy2 JoySetup allow you set a "Shift" button. Not sure on how this work..., but with Cobra M5 3 position slider switch this allow NAV, BVR, VIS modes.

Other MMjoy2 firmware feature is possibility to set a joy button to generate a keyboard keypress instead a DX button, e.g. button 10 = LShift.

Quote:

Where can I find the original connecting shematic because I cut out my wire in the grip.


In MMjoy2 package are a picture of Tm Shift Register board with cables description. It was posted somewhere in this topic.

Quote:

I could replace only the original potmeter with TLE5011 ? A such device where I only change the potmeter ? Becouse normal pot has 3 wire TLE5011 has 5 If I see well.


Yes and is high advisable replace, as pot's wear and Tm pot's are far for "stellar".
TLE5010/11 is PCB that you fix in front a magnet fixed in position like a port read.

TLE5010/11 has 5 wires because work in digital mode (less subject to interference).
Like the HALL sensor in Warthog/TM.16000M, X-55/56, or magnet resistor sensors in MFG Crosswind, Slaw pedals, VKB joy/pedal.

Pot's use 3 wires because work in analog mode.
HALL Sensor (Allegro A1324, Honeyweell SS495A1...) work in analog mode.
GVL224 "MagRez" sensor work in analog mode.

Quote:

Unfortunately,I can't see the pictures on the russian web page on the cougar TQS or other . I don't understand russian languages and I 'm not sign up on those page.


Some there. The TLE5010/11 PCB glued in (Cougar) TQS pot support:



The circular diametrical magnet fix in TQS axis:



Both in place:



As you see the thing is flexible to assembly, in the example glued with Epoxy putty, you can use hot glue, or better bolt the board.

Sample of flexibility allowed by TLE5010/11, in this PCB Mega-MOZG assembly the sensor over the box (11x11mm) of original Tm HOTAS X pot, the pot axis turn the magnet bellow the sensor:



The new "pot'sensor" installed in joy gimbal, in the same place of original pot. In gimbal axis was installed ball bearings to reduce axis play.



BTW - To access IL-2 Russian forum use the same password created in English forum (www.il2sturmovik.com). wink









Last edited by Sokol1; 04/19/16 05:10 PM.
#4250942 - 04/19/16 06:18 PM Re: MMJoy - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Thank you for detailed answer.

I have more question if I could.
What does the MCP3208 do and MCP3202+KMZ60? Those only use if I want connect analoge pot's on the board or when I want increase the axis bit resolution?

So ,Where connect the 5 wire of tle 5011 ? That's way this doesn't replace analog pot, if I only change pot's in another original joy?
"5V" ang "gnd" go same place on pro micro but other 3 are individual each from tle 5011 chip?
the tle5011 chip counts that which side (front/back) or orientation has toward the magnet.
The most of pics I saw horizontal assembly but there is verticaly.

Very interesting the "pot'sensor" with this modification could be replace the antenna elevation pot too.
How looks like this PCB?

#4250972 - 04/19/16 07:43 PM Re: MMJoy - Build your own USB controller [Re: Repvez]  
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Originally Posted By: Repvez

What does the MCP3208 do and MCP3202+KMZ60? Those only use if I want connect analoge pot's on the board or when I want increase the axis bit resolution?


The reason for use MCP3208 is has more two axis input than the allowed in PRO Micro, and use more resolution (12 bits), than the 10 bits native in PRO Micro ATMEGA43u4 mc.

The sensors plugged in MCP3208 can work in digital or analoge mode, in the same way that is allowed the ones plugged in PRO Micro only.

Additionally, as MCP3208 free some pins in PRO Micro, this pins can be used for more buttons inputs, so instead use 32 buttons can use more... up to 64 -is need use keymapper for buttons above #32 - Windows limit.

KMZ60 is "magnet resistor" sensor but was became obsolete by TLE5010/11. His PCB require more additional components.

Quote:

So ,Where connect the 5 wire of tle 5011 ? That's way this doesn't replace analog pot, if I only change pot's in another original joy?


The 6 wires of TLE5010/11 was connected in specific pins in PRO Micro, 3 of this pins (+5v, Gnd, Axis input) can be used to connect a analog device - pot or HALL sensor.

You are not limited to use one or other type, can use sensor in digital mode in more sensible axis, e.g. X, Y, throttle, rudder and pot' or HALL sensor in analog mode in secondary axis like brakes, anthena, range, mini-stick...

Quote:

"5V" ang "gnd" go same place on pro micro but other 3 are individual each from tle 5011 chip?


+5V, Gnd, Miso, Sck... are shared for all axes, only the axis input pin is individual for each axis.

Quote:

the tle5011 chip counts that which side (front/back) or orientation has toward the magnet.
The most of pics I saw horizontal assembly but there is verticaly.


Dont know if this matter but most assembly is with chip horizontally positioned with his "front" toward the magnet.
In vertical operation probable is matter of position the magnet N/S orientation properly.
In case need invert axis direction is need flip the magnet N/S orientation, when this is not possible set the reverse in JoySetup (most of actual "flight games" allow this too).

Quote:

Very interesting the "pot'sensor" with this modification could be replace the antenna elevation pot too.
How looks like this PCB?


Download the MMJOY package, in PCB folder are layout to assembly the TLE5010/11 in this "pot/sensor" way.
Use the SprintLayout Viewer to open the file.








#4251200 - 04/20/16 08:30 PM Re: MMJoy - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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I registered the russian web page, but unfortunately I can't see the most of the pics or attachment there.

As I can see , the pro micro has 2 version , schould I buy the 5v version?
The chinese ardunio panel + TLE5011+ shift register are good? everything is one place, any other place where can we buy this?
The chinesian webshop is scary. Aliexpress could be better.

#4251245 - 04/20/16 10:27 PM Re: MMJoy - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Yes, get the 5 volts version of Arduino - most of HALL sensors work better with this voltage.

In Eagle forum a guy buy this assembled Chinese bards in Taobao:

http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2736643&postcount=14

The guy that make this is "flight simmer".

Or buy the components through eBay and assemble you own, this is the spirit of "DIY". smile






#4252215 - 04/23/16 03:48 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Originally Posted By: Sokol1
UKPete

You can eliminate the resistors R1 to R4 in TLE5010/11 PCB, see there:

http://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4239992/Re:_MMJoy/MMjoy2_-_Build_your_#Post4239992

For conveniente leave R5, if not make a support board for MMjoy.


Thanks for the Info Sokol1!

#4253373 - 04/27/16 07:11 AM Re: MMJoy - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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I ordered my pro micro boards each one for in FLCS and the TQS, And plus ordered some TLE5010 chip so i'm ready to the conversion.
What else do I need more?

#4253452 - 04/27/16 01:56 PM Re: MMJoy - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Originally Posted By: Sokol1
Originally Posted By: buccaneer89

-Breadboards for prototype
-Cables for prototype


Use this only for test, for final assembly make a PCB - order online or DIY.

Quote:

-32 switches
-Shift Register IC 74HC165 How many?


Each 74HC165 handle 8 buttons, so you need four (no limit in numbers).

Quote:

-6 Hall sensors (What type)


Honeywell SS495A-1 or Allegro A1324, they are more sensitive.

A1302 work but require almost 180 degrees of magnet turn, what will limit the axis resolution.
Movement in joystick gimbal is tipycally 20~25 degrees.

But instead HALL use Magneto Resistor sensor TLE5011, more easy to setup.

Quote:

-6 External ADC MCP3208 One for each axis?


You need MCP3208 (12 bits) for axis that plan use above 10 bits - ATMEGA32u4 native ADC resolution - typically for X, Y, rudder axes. IMO - Are much hype about need of big resolutions, although this help to deal with axis movement limitation, e.g. use 14 bits for reach practical 10/12 bits.

Each MCP3208 has 8 inputs. So one fill you needs.

If use TLE5010/11 MPC3208 is not need, this sensor has internal (14 bits) ADC.





Thanks man.

Would this be the same as the TLE5011

http://ie.farnell.com/honeywell/2ss52m/sensor-magnetoresistive-3-8-30vdc/dp/3111519


So recaping if I want 5 axis and 32 buttons. Would this list be enough to get everything working?

32 switches/ buttons

4 Shift Register IC 74HC16

5 TLE5011

1 Arduino Micro

Cables

Breadboard for prototype, to be PCBd when final.



Do I need any kind of resistors or capacitors for the TLE5011 or is it a straight connection to the Arduino Micro?

Also what is the resolution of the TLE5011, I have found mentions to 360 degrees, but not the resolution, as in what is the minimum amount it can mesure? 0.1 degree, 0.01 degree?

Last edited by buccaneer89; 04/27/16 02:08 PM.
#4253454 - 04/27/16 02:03 PM Re: MMJoy - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Ring Neodimium magnets or cicular diametrically magnetized - they attract others by sides.

For TLE5010 PCB you need - preferable in SMD 1206 format, not too small to solder manually and avoid the use of 0,6mm drill case use pass through components:

R1-R4 - 10-100 OHM, optional. For protection on long wires.
R5-R6 - 1-10 kOHM, required. Need to hold up "data" and "select" digital lines.
C1 - 0.1uF (ceramic 104), required. Used on all sorts of applications to decouple ICs from power supplies.
C2 - 10uF (tantal A), optional. These capacitor are great transient/surge suppressor.

#4253566 - 04/27/16 06:37 PM Re: MMJoy - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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I downloaded the sprint layout program but the *.lay6 file didn't open it . Why or what is the methods?
I tried rename the extension simple *.lay but didn't work And one more question. For the pro micro panel to flash firm need spec cable or I use a normal micro USB?

#4253689 - 04/27/16 10:47 PM Re: MMJoy - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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.lay6 open only in SprintLayout 6.0 - there a demo and a viewer in their site, that allow print the file.

To flash PRO Micro is only need the USB cable and JoySetup software (MMjoy2 package).

#4253946 - 04/28/16 04:08 PM Re: MMJoy - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Hi guys,
I am reading tons of info on the components that I should be buying and trying to understand how to connect everything.

I am having problem on the wiring of the Shift Register 74HC165 to the Arduino.

I don't know where I should connect the PL(green), CP(orange) and Q7(yellow) poles, I pressume that I can connect them to any BM available input on the Arduino like A0 to A5 on the Micro and then once in the software you select which inputs are being used.

Am I right?




As a side note has anyone found the 74HC165 for Fritzing. I found some but none of them could be succesfully imported.

Last edited by buccaneer89; 04/28/16 04:12 PM.
#4254797 - 05/01/16 04:26 PM Re: MMJoy - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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I found it.It is similar to shift register I think, but it use only 4 wire at te end of process.
On PCB there are two I2C expanders MCP23017 connected with Arduino with joystick library


Last edited by Repvez; 05/01/16 04:26 PM.
#4254965 - 05/02/16 06:07 AM Re: MMJoy - Build your own USB controller [Re: Repvez]  
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Originally Posted By: Repvez
I found it.It is similar to shift register I think, but it use only 4 wire at te end of process.
On PCB there are two I2C expanders MCP23017 connected with Arduino with joystick library

MMjoy2 are not Arduino sketch, and don't use arduino librarys.
"I2C" protocol not supported. Only variants of SPI.

#4255122 - 05/02/16 03:43 PM Re: MMJoy - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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I didn't know that. I thought MMjoy2 use same protokol because there use same ardunio panel or chip.

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