show me please were to find this (ebay/ali).thank you.

I accidentally purchased one that was far too tight for a joystick, but my brother in law had purchased one too many when working on his atv so I got to play around with this in my hand. Any ball joint that moves freely would probably work. I was going to drill a spot for a magnet on the bottom of the ball, but after drilling through the outer casing, I found there was already a hole there! I will get ahold of him and try to determine the model of this one and let you know.

spogooter
ok. now understand. What sensor and controller?

Sensor: http://www.melexis.com/mlx90333
Controller: https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/teensyLC.html

I need to build the proper circuit to get a clean signal from the mlx90333. This gimbal is a test bed for it.

Newest project: functional B-5 grip (P-51) replica

Work in progress gallery here: http://imgur.com/a/iBeQ7



Now to tackle the intricacy of 3d printed knurling!

I have a real one of those if you need/want any reference pics or specific dimensions (machinist with calipers here). I can't see from that angle, do you have the top button on it?

It was the stock grip in my sailplane that was destroyed in a windstorm. Back in the day however, I would make machine gun sounds while I pulled the trigger and pretend to shoot down other ships 'stealing' my thermals :p

That is very kind. I may very well bug you for dimensions at some point. A friend at AirCorps Aviation recently sent me some photos with a ruler in. His is a slightly different model though, without the nut/screw doodad on the side. I'm not quite sure what it does. Maybe holds some internals in place. I assume the brass flat screw up top is to adjust the trigger spring tension. Looking to source something for that, as I'd like to make mine adjustable as well. Really neat to hear you had one in your plane! It's a very comfortable grip. I do have the top button printed, I'm just fiddling with the design to accommodate cheapo switches at the moment. I'm sitting in the shop "pew pew pewing" now

I've been experimenting with my printer now for a couple of weeks now, work takes to much time though .
I think I got the basic setup going pretty good from start, will try to improve my 0.1mm prints now with PLA.

Any good tips on speed, retraction, heat settings and so on?

I will post some progress pics when I've printed my first panel.

Cheers!
Robin

PLA is pretty straight forward. I usually heat the bed to 55-60 just to keep it from possibly warping, and it never has. The PLA I got with mine prints very nicely compared to hatchbox and several other brands we have at work. I run the nozzle at 195 with it. I haven't altered my extrusion multiplier (1.00) or retraction (1mm) from the defaults in simplify3d. It's an expensive program, but worth it imo. Especially with the money I saved getting this ridiculously cheap printer
I sometimes run the speed a 4000mm/min and it still prints fine. Any specific stuff you're having trouble with?

I finally went out and got a nice cloth wheel to buff the flap lever printed in stainless pla...


Pretty happy with the results.

A couple more pics here: http://imgur.com/a/rhAzH

Nice mate

Thank you, and thanks again for the ref image I've got a pair of mustang pedals growing next to me right now, should be done in...13 hours. I had them fail once tonight because my support material spacing was still set for pla "easy release". I think I've got it dialed in. Fingers crossed!

You can print PLA on cold glass if you like.

g.

I use 2mm aluminium ;)Keeps the heat beautifully..

I like to heat the bed to 50 for pla if I'm printing onto glass. I've had it curl up a bit without heat. My important stuff will all be printed in ABS. I think brushing the mustang pedals with acetone will give them just the look I'm going for. The pedal print failed last night. Layers delaminated so today I built an enclosure. Just putting the door together now. It's not pretty but for 15 bucks at home depot I think it will do the job.





I'll probably add some insulation board to the interior walls.

Hmm. Up until now I haven't been very impressed with 3D printed tech outside of shapeways. I might be getting one of these and doing some sand casting.
Keep the prints coming.

If you're willing to put a little extra effort into finishing, you can get some pretty nice results. I'm curious to try casting as well. I wonder if I could make an abs mold, fill that with wax, then put that wax into a sand cast? I have no idea when it comes to casting.

Talk to LocNar. He's quite knowledgeable about casting.

Will do when the time comes, thanks. I knew that name sounded familiar (beyond this thread). I just looked him up by name, and I realized I've found his threads from numerous google searches in the past. I love those hall pots he did

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3674791/1

He also posts as "Thadiun Okona" over on the Star Citizen forums. He recently posted some very detailed information on casting over there.