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#3904734 - 01/31/14 05:00 AM Kauai trip report..(caution - 100+ images)  
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BeachAV8R Offline
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So my Mom invited us to go to Kauai with her - a trip we hadn't anticipated, but jumped at the opportunity to take. Some friends of hers were unable to go to their timeshare due to some work constraints, so they gifted the condo to my Mom - wow! Marisa and I were married in Maui back in 2010 (and nine months and one day later - Kai was born!) and we'd heard great things about how "outdoorsy" Kauai is, so we were very excited to go. The condo we stayed at was up in Princeville. Even though my wife works for an airline, trying to non-rev for multiple legs out to Hawaii would be a nightmare, so we bought tickets. Even still, a three-leg, 12-hour flight time trip with a three year old is fun stuff! In anticipation, I bit the bullet and bought him a Kindle to occupy some of his time with some movies and games. (Parent tip - Kindles are great because you can set Parental Controls to control the content, purchases, and even a timer that limits their use..)



Our flight departed Charlotte at around 8AM, connected through Atlanta, then on to Los Angeles, then Lihue, Kauai. Even though Delta is "the Enemy", they did a great job. Departing LAX - arrival in Kauai would be late afternoon on Sunday...



We arrive late in the afternoon, catching just a few tantalizing glimpses of the island as we taxi in. Then the sun sets and you drive in darkness unaware of all the awesome scenery around you. Makes for an awesome wake-up in the morning though!



Bone weary, we made a quick stop by a grocery store to pick up some groceries and arrived up in Princeville in the mid-evening. We all pretty much fell into bed at that point. Woke up the next morning in awe of the view, and took a walk around the resort (Westin - Princeville)...





I think I'm gonna grill some steaks right......HERE!



We waited until noon local time before ordering our first Mai Tai, even though at 7AM it is noon in Charlotte..



Makai golf course borders the property. My old man would have loved it, but he didn't make the trip... I only ever play golf with my Dad (like once every two years) so I wasn't compelled to destroy any golf course property...







The resort is perched up on some high cliffs that look out over the ocean north of the island. Throughout the day, migrating whales pass within eyesight and you can see them breaching and spouting. It was very cool. This is the view to the east toward Anini Beach...



My hot wife...(unfortunately the snorkeling was horrible on Kauai - so big thumbs down for lack of bikini pics...)



The "Quiet Pool" - for adults to meditate and sip on their Mai Tai without kids...



We took a walk down a steep path from the Westin property to Anini Beach. The walk takes about ten minutes, and the trail can be a bit slippery, but it isn't the high drama hike that some reports have made it out to be. Kai could do it without us holding his hand. Anini is great in the winter because the swell on the north side of the island can make a lot of the beaches unswimmable. The outer reef at Anini shelters the inner waters and they are perfectly calm no matter what the swell is doing...









Kai always stops to smell the flowers...



Kai at Anini Beach...



This dog - living the life...all he was missing was a bone..



The east end of West Anini Beach..





A cool mountain stream bisects the beach..




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#3904735 - 01/31/14 05:01 AM Re: Kauai trip report..(caution - 100+ images) [Re: BeachAV8R]  
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You can see how dead calm the water is on the inside of the reef. Outside the reef the swell was probably 6-8' on most of the days...higher on some others..



Heading back up the trail to the resort..





Trying out the local "Big Wave" beer in honor of the biggest waves in a decade that were arriving on the island about the same time we did. A huge storm north of the islands was sending an enormous swell south. The forecast was for 50' waves on the north shores of the islands. Indeed, the system sent huge waves to the islands and also to the coast of California where the Mavericks Big Wave contest scrambled to take advantage a few days later...



Responsible parenting..



We grilled out on our second night...local beef burgers with black pepper and teriyaki seasoning... Oh yes..! Since this was a trip on a budget (since we hadn't anticipated going to Hawaii - yeah, I know, first world problems), we ended up eating in every night. It was so nice to cook our own food and not have to travel to restaurants (and yes - a lot cheaper!). The grill areas at the resort are awesome. Clusters of five or six grills under canopies...really cool...





Kai's favorite part of the trip was probably the kid pool. He went down the slide probably two-hundred times. Great for us since it wore him out each day...





One of the infinite edge pools on the west side of the property... From here you can watch whales spouting all day long..





Nana and Kai examining shells..



We snorkeled at Anini. Our expectations were not very high since we had read that the south side of the island has some of the better winter snorkeling, but we were unprepared for how devastated the coral is within the bay there at Anini. I'd guess that 90% or more of the coral is dead or dying (yes, I know the entire reef is composed mostly of live coral on top of dead coral..I'm saying the coverage of live coral is very, very sparse). Visibility was fair to poor on the two occasions we snorkeled there. The waves breaking over the reef on the east and west ends fill the bay and the current exits the center of the bay through two channels at a fairly brisk pace. We snorkeled out to the edges of the passes and were pretty impressed with the rate of the current. We saw a lot of turtles, a few fish, and very few bits of living coral unfortunately. If I had to guess (and it is purely a guess) - the runoff from the golf courses above the bay are probably fairly problematic for the coral in the bay.

These pics are from East Anini beach, which had slightly better snorkeling. West Anini had practically zero coral...







We did spot a nice White Spotted moray eel..very elegant..









Spot the fish in this and you get a prize..(not really)..





Cont...



#3904737 - 01/31/14 05:01 AM Re: Kauai trip report..(caution - 100+ images) [Re: BeachAV8R]  
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All of that said..the scenery and location are awesome..



Kai on his "surfboard"...



Kai was quite the "Ladies Man" on this trip... Had he been collecting phone numbers his phonebook would be full..



Little Bear taking a stab at seeing some fish..









Lots of beach to run on. Anini is totally safe - just leave your car unlocked and don't leave anything valuable within. Better to have a thief open the door than break glass... Every local I ran into was really friendly and seemed to be enjoying the beach as much as us tourists were...



Some cool sand ripples on the shallow bottom. Indicative of the strong current running left to right here exiting the bay..



David Hasslehoff 2.0



The next day we got in the car for a road trip. We headed down to Lydgate Beach on the east side of the island because we had heard it is a good area for little kids and is sheltered from the swell. It is a fantastic family and kids beach..no doubt about it. There are two protected (as in completely surrounded by jetties) beaches with tidal pools for the kids to wade and swim in with some little fish swimming around.











There is also an impressive playground for the kids at Lydgate...



Cont...



#3904738 - 01/31/14 05:02 AM Re: Kauai trip report..(caution - 100+ images) [Re: BeachAV8R]  
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While there we took a walk north on the beach toward the exit point for the Wailua River..a really nice area. I did some fishing here with some top-water lures but didn't hook into anything. Looked like a good area to fish though..











Since we were on the east side of the island we decided to continue south and push head toward the south and southwest side of the island. The drive toward Waimea Canyon takes a surprisingly long time..a couple of hours. The island looks smaller on a map than it is in reality..if that makes any sense.

We visited Poipu Beach area where the surf was hopping for the locals..









And enjoyed an awesome shaved ice - they put ice cream in the bottom of it..yeah, sounds weird, but it is damn good!



The drive has some great scenic vistas..



We hit Waimea in the late afternoon, which turned out to be great because there was almost nobody there (they had come and gone). We hadn't really planned to go so far, but the opportunity was there and we didn't want to have to repeat the drive. Now that I've been there, I'd suggest that a visit to Waimea Canyon is on the MUST DO list for Kauai. It is awesome. I just wish we had had time to do some hiking in the park because I know there are some incredible hikes there...











The highlight of the drive is reaching Kalalau Lookout which looks down onto the northwest edge of the island (the Na Pali Coast). The setting sun put on an ethereal show as the colors brightened, peaked, then faded into the night. Zooming in with my video camera I could see massive 20'+ waves pounding the coast. I can only estimate the size..but based on their relative speed of motion, and a pretty good sense of scale, I'm confident those waves were very, very big. It was so impressive..









The next day we got up early to visit the Kilauea Lighthouse, which is visible down the coast from the resort..





Cont...



#3904739 - 01/31/14 05:02 AM Re: Kauai trip report..(caution - 100+ images) [Re: BeachAV8R]  
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The park is very interesting with some great volunteers and rangers that hand out binoculars and help locate seabirds and whales. Having a 3-year old probably wasn't ideal since I could have stayed there for hours and watched whales, but it was a good time. Again, the surf pounding the north shore of Kauai was awesome. The deep thud of the waves striking the cliff faces was like hearing artillery land (if I had to guess) and the waves were shooting up 30 - 50' into the air after impacting the cliffs. It was incredible and you could watch it for hours without getting bored of the power and fury...











Did a little shopping in Hanalei Bay. Kauai was really growing on Kai and he started turning into Laird Hamilton..



Ya' got a little ketchup on your fingers there Laird..



For most of the duration of our trip Hanalei Bay was going off. The outer reef was getting pounded by an enormous swell while the inside had some nice waves for learning on. I regret not having rented a board (or SUP) and doing some surfing near the pier..the conditions would have been great for confident swimmers.. The backdrop of the mountains of the Napali Coast are just jaw dropping. Hanalei Bay is steeped in surfing history. With dramatic stories such as Bethany Hamilton (lost her arm to a Tiger shark attack) to being the stomping grounds of Andy Irons, you just know that Hanalei has seen some awesome action. It is a surfer's paradise and has a special connection to watermen. Being so in love with the ocean I could see living there..but at the same time I wish for it to remain the cool town that it is. People live out of their cars just to surf there and scrap together enough of a living to extend their stay... A neat town with a different vibe..











On the west side of Hanalei Bay is a point that catches the northwest swell..and with the surf conditions enormous, it was getting pounded. I parked at a pull-off and walked down a short trail, the boom of the surf vibrating the soil beneath my feet. Seeing that kind of surf is just scary - and I've been out windsurfing in hurricanes on the east coast, but I've never seen anything like the surf on the north short of Kauai. It is just brutal..and you can see why there are so many warning posted everywhere.



We drove back to the Westin and Marisa and I took a walk and left Kai with Nana. We crossed the golf course and headed for the cliffs north of the resort. We semi-trespassed (OK - we trespassed) across some other properties and found the trail behind Sea Lodge that goes down to a really secluded beach called Kaweonui Beach. It is a really cool, steep and rugged hike down to the beach. Again, we could hear the swell pounding the cliff face, so we knew we'd be in for a good show...









The trail ends on the east side of the small bay/beach. The winter surf is caught by the outer reef here, but it is only a fifty meters offshore or so, and it only knocks down the surf a bit and doesn't make it calm like Anini Beach. So the waves are pretty rough. In slightly bigger conditions, coupled with high tide, I imagine the beach all but disappears and I suppose it could pin you up against the steep walls of the bay. We hit it at what looked to be low(ish) tide but we didn't dawdle since we didn't want the trail to go underwater and cut off our escape..







While walking on the very short beach, we saw some debris with what I assumed to be Japanese writing on it. I picked some of it up..then had the stupid morbid thought that what if it is Fukushima contaminated debris..<g> Then I got to thinking - I don't know the difference between Chinese and Japanese characters..so I have no idea where this buoy is from... There were other debris with similar markings on the beach..





Cont...



#3904740 - 01/31/14 05:03 AM Re: Kauai trip report..(caution - 100+ images) [Re: BeachAV8R]  
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The next day we left the Kai Bear with Nana early in the morning and we woke up at 5AM to make the short drive through Hanalei to the trailhead for the Kalalau Trail. For those not into hiking, the Kalalau Trail is probably in the top 10 hikes worldwide..so for us it was a no brainer. Unfortunately, we promised Kai we'd be back by mid-day, so we could only commit to hiking in about 4 miles or so (8 miles roundtrip) even though the trail goes 11 miles (22 roundtrip) to its termination at Kalalau Beach. The final half of the trail is reported to be the most difficult, with the most exposure, so we are bummed we missed out on that part. Typically it is done as a long single day with multiple overnights at the beach before hiking out. I'm definitely going back because I want to tackle "Crawlers Ledge" - it looks positively awesomely frightening. I think Marisa has the right idea - kayak in, daypack hike out. Sign me up..

Crawlers Ledge (skip ahead to about 10:00 to get the full effect..):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGkKnizlVSg





Looking back down the trail toward Ke'e Beach and I believe that is Tunnels Reef area on the point. Normally one of the best snorkeling areas on the island, it is typically a wash in the winter and definitely under the surf conditions during our trip..



The first four miles of trail is really good. I could see how it would be interesting in heavy rain..but under normal conditions it is no problem. The major stream crossings require care since rains higher in the valley can result in flash floods, but conditions were perfect for us..



My advice - go early. We had probably the third or fourth parking spot and we saw barely anyone on our hike in. The sun was just starting to peek over the eastern sky when we started. In a couple of hours the trail was jam packed..but we were passing everyone going the opposite way on the way back which was nice..





As one would expect, the scenery is awesome. After a short hike in, the views down the Na Pali coast really open up and you can see how rugged the trip will be..







All the while you can hear the surf pounding on the cliff faces below. The thuds and hollow pounding are really cool..



Looks like Land of the Lost..



Cont...



#3904741 - 01/31/14 05:03 AM Re: Kauai trip report..(caution - 100+ images) [Re: BeachAV8R]  
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Soon the sun started to poke over the ridges to our east, illuminating the ridges to the west..



Marisa further on down the trail to give some scale..



We reached Hanakapiai Beach where we ran across the obligatory warning signs. One could shrug them off as propaganda until you see how insane the waves are and how some people are clueless about how occasionally larger sets of waves can come out of nowhere and sweep across what looked like a safe area..





The bay itself was all boulders and the surf was just pounding it. From what I've read, in the summer the waves recede and sand is deposited on the beach..but in the winter the swell scours all the sand away or buries it underwater and the area becomes just a huge boulder pounding melee. You'd get knocked unconscious in ten seconds if you swam here..



We pushed past the Hanakapiai because we agree to hike for about two and a half hours, have a light snack, then turn around so we could meet our obligation to meet up with Kai mid-day...





In this little cirque we stopped on the trail and grabbed a quick bite to eat, drank some water and turned around..



Heading back down the trail showed off views that we hadn't really seen behind us..









The sun was starting to blaze in the valleys. The temps run up pretty quick and the valleys fill with mist as the humidity ramps up.. It is beautiful..



Crossing the stream at Hanakapiai..









Back at the trailhead around noon.. We'll be back for the full deal some other time..



Cont..



#3904742 - 01/31/14 05:03 AM Re: Kauai trip report..(caution - 100+ images) [Re: BeachAV8R]  
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Ke'e Beach..right at the Kalalau trailhead..



That afternoon we picked up Nana and Kai and headed over to the St. Regis, which shares facilities with the Westin.. Very nice resort with a nice beach on the east side of Hanalei Bay. Surf conditions and wind prevented any swimming or snorkeling here of course..but it is probably awesome in the summer..

















The next morning I headed down early to Anini to do some fishing. I caught nine or ten small fish.. I wasn't being really sophisticated, just fishing a piece of squid on the bottom after wading out to the middle of the shallow bay. Bigger fish are in there, no doubt..and there were fly fisherman casting for what I'd guess were bonefish of some sort..but I didn't see any of them hook up. I caught mostly little jack type fish and parrotfish..







Kai excited about something on Anini Beach..



At the trailhead to Anini on the cliffs at the Westin..



Kai having a blast in the pool retrieving weighted streamers.. Kid is quite the fish..like his Daddy and Mommy..



Our last day it was a bit rainy and cloudy.. Our flight wasn't until 10PM out of Lihue, so we had all day to kill. We went into Hanalei to do some touristy shopping..



Kai killing an ice cream cone..damn that looks good!



We knew the conditions at the famed Queens Bath would be insane, but we wanted to check it out anyway. So we parked in the nearby lot and headed down the trail (cough..which was marked CLOSED). The sound and fury could be heard from the parking lot. What is normally a relatively calm and swimmable pool in the summer was positively gnarly during this big winter swell. It was actually scary just standing well above where the waves were hitting because you could just imagine how insane it would be do be in that water. Kai complained we were holding his hand too tight.. Uh..yeah..









Some other dude who had been there before and was much braver (or dumber) than I went around to where I guess the "bath" really is..but it looked way too exposed to me on that shelf. Surveying the leaves and debris around me, I could tell we were in a good spot..but where he was just looked problematic. Beyond him you can see waves shooting 20' above his head as it crashed against the cliffs. Nuts..



After taking in the awesome power of the coast one last time, we went back to spend the rest of the day at the resort. The Westin has a nice amenity where they allow you to use a suite for 45 minutes to shower and change and pack for late night flights. We definitely appreciated that perk. We took advantage and left the suite at 6:45 for our 9:50PM redeye flight out Lihue to LAX..



Kai traveled better than any of us. On the five hour flight from Kauai to LAX he slept the entire five hours. On the four hour flight from LAX to ATL he slept nearly the entire flight. He was awake on the one hour flight from ATL to CLT. Daddy, Mommy, and Nana weren't so lucky and didn't get any sleep for 30+ hours.. Kai got to sit in the cockpit of the Delta MD-88 that took us into Charlotte...



Altogether an awesome trip.. We wish we had another week there to do some other stuff (yeah..I know..cry me a river..).. Definitely a different island than Maui.. I'd love to go back and do some kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, surfing, and explore more of the island.. Thanks to my Mom for inviting us along and thanks to her friends for allowing us all the opportunity to go. It was the trip of a lifetime..

BeachAV8R

* Written quickly without editing - so forgive my mistakes!



#3904746 - 01/31/14 05:18 AM Re: Kauai trip report..(caution - 100+ images) [Re: BeachAV8R]  
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Awesome pics my man. Gorgeous Island. Looks like the trip of a lifetime! Thanks for sharing.

#3904785 - 01/31/14 07:34 AM Re: Kauai trip report..(caution - 100+ images) [Re: BeachAV8R]  
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You could have just written ..159 pics..but oooohhh noooo..you gotta get all fancy and be like 100+ biggrin (watch me get corrected when it is 158 or 160..or did i specifically use 159 so after reading this have to go and check my count just to see if that's how many there are..


Awesome spot and shots Beach, you constantly live up to your name. Number 105 really popped out at me biggrin


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#3904882 - 01/31/14 02:22 PM Re: Kauai trip report..(caution - 100+ images) [Re: BeachAV8R]  
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I don't know why I clicked this link, and when I did I thought this was just some lame "Hawaii vacation pics" post, but I must say that it was really worth looking at.
For one thing, your photography is really good.
Secondly, the place is just stunningly gorgeous (see no.1). I'd heard Hawaii was nice, but some of these pictures show such raw natural scenes, I'm dying to see it for myself.
Third, you did stuff. Swam, hiked, splashed around with your lovely little boy (3 is an awesome age [but so far, so is 4 and 6]). He looked like he had an awesome, mind-expanding time. Well done, parents.

#3904890 - 01/31/14 02:38 PM Re: Kauai trip report..(caution - 100+ images) [Re: BeachAV8R]  
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Excellent pics Beach. Thanks for sharing.


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#3904936 - 01/31/14 04:07 PM Re: Kauai trip report..(caution - 100+ images) [Re: BeachAV8R]  
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Awesome photos, thanks for taking us along and sharing your adventure. Always look forward to these photos
when the depths of winter blues set in here.


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#3904950 - 01/31/14 04:29 PM Re: Kauai trip report..(caution - 100+ images) [Re: BeachAV8R]  
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I can't believe how much he's grown up.


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#3904981 - 01/31/14 05:04 PM Re: Kauai trip report..(caution - 100+ images) [Re: BeachAV8R]  
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Wow! It's so beautiful in Hawaii!

I am so jealous!

Y'all looked like you had a fantastic time out there!

p.s. where are the pictures of the steaks?

duck biggrin


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#3904993 - 01/31/14 05:30 PM Re: Kauai trip report..(caution - 100+ images) [Re: BeachAV8R]  
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I see you visited some of the Jurassic Park locations like the waterfall. All you need is the InGen heli flying in front of it.



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#3905102 - 01/31/14 09:05 PM Re: Kauai trip report..(caution - 100+ images) [Re: BeachAV8R]  
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Awesome photos!

I can't believe you actually got a whale spout....


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#3905148 - 01/31/14 10:51 PM Re: Kauai trip report..(caution - 100+ images) [Re: BeachAV8R]  
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Beautiful photos.

And my, has Kai grown. I still remember you posting about your wedding...


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#3905169 - 01/31/14 11:49 PM Re: Kauai trip report..(caution - 100+ images) [Re: BeachAV8R]  
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Wonderful vacation! The sound of surf is amazing as it crashes into cliffs like those. Some of the north shore of Lake Superior has similar conditions and I have watched it for most of the day on occasions mesmerized by the intensity, rhythm and chaos of it all.


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#3905314 - 02/01/14 06:17 AM Re: Kauai trip report..(caution - 100+ images) [Re: BeachAV8R]  
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Looks like one heck of a trip. Thanks for sharing. thumbsup


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RIP Gemini/Apollo astronaut Tom Stafford
by semmern. 03/18/24 02:14 PM
10 years after 3/8/2014
by NoFlyBoy. 03/17/24 10:25 AM
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