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#4383797 - 10/08/17 07:56 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller ***** [Re: Sokol1]  
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Barra Offline
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Need some advice.
I have finally got around to trying to wire the rudder pedals to Pro Micro. Connection of Pro Micro to PC only shows board as "Other Device" with the yellow symbol - it does not appear in ports.
Shorting the board does not change things.

I am wondering if board has an issue.

See DM file

Attached Files DM Device Error 20171008.PNG
Last edited by Barra; 10/08/17 07:57 AM.
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#4383851 - 10/08/17 04:22 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Hi , the PID and VID you allocate in MMjoy2 are only USB Identifiers and are not "ports" as in the old days , and there is really no limit on modern PCs to the number of Com Ports ( I see mine upto 31 sometimes till i have a cleanout with USB Deview) as most hardware is Allocated "ports" virtually , that started back in Vista when we lost the ability to use Gameport Joysticks etc as M$ stopped hardware from being addressed directly by Drivers etc .

Usually if it is showing up as a Leonardo still it means you haven't uploaded the MMjoy Firmware to the Micro or it has been corrupted somehow , perhaps when the old MB died if it was connected at that time? or you are testing with one Pro Micro and have another in the Pedals with no Firmware on it?

since the Leo has an issue in DM , I am also guessing you don't have the proper Leonardo Drivers installed either or the Arduino IDE ? ( currently version 1.8.5)

https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software

its possible the Board has a corrupt Firmware too which the IDE above should be able to reflash if needed but since you are installing the MMjoy Firmware the Leonardo one isnt really needed.

Try MMjoy2 2016-8-18 as the last version from November seems to have a few issues .... 3rd one from the bottom here : https://sites.google.com/site/mmjoyproject/fajly-dla-skacivania


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#4383906 - 10/08/17 10:30 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Kb1rd1]  
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I have 2 Pro Micros. 1 is in the button box which I tested yesterday and it seems to connect up and be seen in game ok. - Nothing was on PC when it had problems.

2nd Pro Micro I tried to connect for the 1st time yesterday and It is for the rudder pedals I am building.

On connection to PC it only showed in the "Other Devices" list in DM and it had the little yellow symbol on it right from connection. It has never showed on the ports list like I think it should.

Anyhow,I tried to short it like to have to do to start the firmware load process to get port number but nothing changed other than the DM screen flashing.

So there are no drivers or firmware on the board yet.

When I do get something to look like it's working I am using the same version of MMJOY as in the box which is the 2016 08 18 version you suggested a long time ago to me.


Last edited by Barra; 10/08/17 10:34 PM.
#4383916 - 10/08/17 11:41 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Did you load the MMjoy Firmware to the 2nd Pro Micro? , it's possible it came with a corrupted Arduino Bootloader (firmware), I have seen that reported on other Forums, so windows may not recognise it properly as a Leonardo , but the IDE should be able to flash the bootloader..... if it sees the Pro Micro that is....under Tools> Burn Bootloader once you have set the Tools section to Leonardo (Board Section) and a Port number. Otherwise you may need to use a 2nd Pro Micro or Uno or Leo. to burn the Firmware again.

I found with my Leonardo's a double tap of the reset button is needed to force it into Bootloader Mode to accept a firmware Upload , a single tap doesn't always work for me....you see DM flicker but nothing changes , with a dbl-tap you should see it change port numbers... ie mine changes from port 6 to port 7 and then back but it only remains in bootloader mode for 8 secs if you weren't aware?

If none of the above helps you maybe right about it being Faulty....

I am admittedly not and expert on arduino though so perhaps other can help out too...


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#4383930 - 10/09/17 12:27 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Kb1rd1]  
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Yes I was doing double tap. No port numbers appear.

I can see in USBDeview where board is listed. Wounder how import port number is?

Last edited by Barra; 10/09/17 01:19 AM.
#4383940 - 10/09/17 01:36 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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If the Arduino IDE doesn't see it either I would suspect a bad Pro Micro , ( bad bootloader) since the other one is seen just fine on the system I don't think it is a Driver /Port issue....

With the Pro , I also read on the Arduino website you can hold the reset but then use the IDE to reburn the Firmware / bootloader , then you can hopefully burn the MMjoy firmware afterwards.

see the very bottom paragraph on this page about uploading code .....( you should be able to do the other tests on this page too)

https://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/ArduinoLeonardoMicro

If you have a spare Uno or Leonardo you can also reburn the bad bootloader using the second good one..... you could use the one in the button box but you'd need to wipe the MMjoy firmware 1st and then reload it , or borrow/buy a 2nd good (genuine) board like an Uno or Leonardo locally. its not that hard , the 2nd part of this video shows how. ( the 1st part only applies if you have a cheap ($3-5) Uno Clone that needs a different Driver.)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHF45zhe_9U


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#4384147 - 10/10/17 01:06 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Barra Offline
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Well it looks like I may have managed to get it working - I think..

I actually decided to load Windows 10 due to Microsoft dropping support on new Gen 7 Mboards. It actually seems to work and load quicker on new board in comparison to W7.

I am yet to test button box but I just finished looking at the Pro Micro for the rudders (which was showing as a problem in DM in W7) and this time there was no issue in DM (Device Manager). So I tried a Firmware update and it went through - although it does not show as I expected in USBDview.

It would seem there was some issue in previous load of W7 between new Mboard/W7/ and MMJoy or something did not load correctly.

See attached file. Would it seem to others that it worked? It will be a few days again before I can attack the wiring of sensors to board.

Cheers

Attached Files MMJoy2 Firmware Load 2017 10 10.PNG
#4384285 - 10/11/17 02:38 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Your new USB joystick controller was created - is the "MMJ-reset".

A new joystick controller but a blank/empty one - so the Windows Game controller don't see then because has no axes.

Now is just mater of you customize like you want - how many axis will use, same for buttons if applicable, your custom name (10 letters), VID/PID to define controller priority relative to other existent joysticks...
and hit the "SAVE SETTINGS TO DEVICE".

After will be read to use.


Last edited by Sokol1; 10/11/17 04:09 PM.
#4384303 - 10/11/17 05:10 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Looks good Barra , I guess you haven't saved to device yet in the Pic? as the Name is at default and so are the VID and PID

As Sokol said , once you assign an X and Y axis at least and a few Buttons it will be seen in Win10's Game Controllers App.

If Win7 wasn't installed Clean on the New MB ? , then it may have had issues with the new MB's Chipset etc , so installing Win10 would of cleaned that up , the new MB will be full UEFI and have Fast Startup too most likely so it should boot quicker.

Good too hear you have it sorted out...

KB


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#4384315 - 10/11/17 07:55 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Barra Offline
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Thanks Sokol and KB, got back to this quicker as I had to stick around home for a delivery for son.

This is not working for me yet!

So I have connected up the TLE5010 (times 3) sensors. These are for left and right brake and rudder.

I have made the following wires common for all 3 sensors:
VCC (+)
GND (-)
MISO to Pin B2
SCK to Pin B1
GEN to Pin B6

Senor CS to 3 different F Pins
Left Brake F4
Right Brake F6
Rudder F5

I did stuff up big time by placing plug from sensors onto Pro Micro the wrong way around the 1st time and did not pick this up for some time. Even though it was connected incorrectly it did not loose the PM from software. This was actually the 2nd time I connected up, as on the 1st occasion it did not register in MMJOY2 but as thePM was upside down on a mounting board I could not see PM light. So I then removed PM from mount and plugged back together. It was at this time I reversed the #$%#^ plug!

However I have corrected and now when I connect Pro Micro to TLE5010's and connect the Pro Micro to PC the light on Pro Micro goes out and I loose PM from MMJPY2 software.

I can then remove sensors from PM and light comes back on and it appears again in MMJOY2 software.

With connecting plug on PM in incorrectly, I thought I may have stuffed the sensors. So I unplugged all sensors and connected the one spare sensor I have not touched previously. The same thing happens with loosing PM light and PM from software. In hindsight I think it did this the 1st time I just did not realise.

For what it's worth I have attached a copy of software connection from the 1st plugin when wiring was reversed. Obviously I have not saved sets.

Attached Files MMJoy2 TLE5010 setup 2017 10 11.PNG
Last edited by Barra; 10/11/17 10:01 AM.
#4384367 - 10/11/17 01:20 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Czary Offline
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Hi, Barra, what PCB's do you use for your rudder connctions ?
As I see on the "captainblood" PCB's for 3 axis TLE5010 rudder wiring is :

VCC
GND
MISO- B3
SCK- B1
GEN- B6
CS Rudder- D7
CS Right Ru.-E6
CS Left Ru.-C6

#4384383 - 10/11/17 02:54 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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At least on the Leonardo Barra B2 is MOSI not MISO so it should be B3 I think.... see attached


KB

Attached Files Leonardo PINS_Printable.pngLEOnardo PINS.png
Last edited by Kbird; 10/11/17 02:55 PM.

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#4384451 - 10/11/17 10:44 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Czary]  
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Barra Offline
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Originally Posted by Czary
Hi, Barra, what PCB's do you use for your rudder connctions ?


I am using Pro Micro Board with TLE5010's from Ali Express which were linked on this thread earlier.

I also used B2 going on a picture posted a couple of months ago.

I will change to B3 for /data (MISO)

I also used "F" numbered for axis. As I just assumed that it is were they should be. So maybe I can try other pins as well?

The PM staying active while plug on PM was reversed had me confused. On sleeping on it, I have realised that nothing is connected so it just sees PM. It just happened that with plug reversed there was only a pin on the VCC and nothing to ground.

#4384466 - 10/12/17 12:06 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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OK I tried changing MISO to B3.
Same reaction on Pro Micro. Light on board comes on then fades. No reaction in MMJoy2 nor in Device Manager.

I then tried connection without any CS connection pins - just:
VCC
GND
MISO- B3
SCK- B1
GEN- B6.
Same reaction.

So then I tried moving all CS connections in line with Czary post
CS Rudder- D7
CS Right Ru.-E6
CS Left Ru.-C6

and same reaction.

As soon as I remove senors plug the board lights up and appears in MMJoy2 software.

#4384481 - 10/12/17 02:46 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Barra Offline
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Well I have tracked down 1 problem.

Using multi I found that I have a wire swap in the 1 cable line that covers Right Brake and Rudder. I am yet to get head around the swap of wires as it happens at a plug.
The Left Brake shows good with Multi.

So I have only connected that verified Left Bake to the PM and at least now the PM does not shut down and stays recognised by the MMJoy2 software.

However moving of brake does not get a reaction. Below is snip of MMJoy2 software. Does the setup look correct?

Attached Files MMJoy2 TLE5010 setup 1 axis 2017 10 12.PNG
#4384494 - 10/12/17 05:28 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Barra]  
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Originally Posted by Barra
Well I have tracked down 1 problem.

Using multi I found that I have a wire swap in the 1 cable line that covers Right Brake and Rudder. I am yet to get head around the swap of wires as it happens at a plug.
The Left Brake shows good with Multi.

So I have only connected that verified Left Bake to the PM and at least now the PM does not shut down and stays recognised by the MMJoy2 software.

However moving of brake does not get a reaction. Below is snip of MMJoy2 software. Does the setup look correct?




I am no Electronics expert but is sounds like you are grounding something out , ie you have your wires flipped on the TLE's or have a solder bridge or something of that nature. What kind of plug are you talking about? I am assuming by Multi you mean a DMM and you are testing for Continuity on each wire?

The TLE5010 needs a Precision of 12 set in MMjoy and AFAIK you don't need the magnet offset box checked. You do need to run a MMjoy calibration on them too via the calibrate helper button, bottom left.Use saved calibration not auto calibration for TLE5011.

As you can see in the pic below I also have filter set at 12 which may or may not be needed as I am still playing around with mine as I have time , am also playing with the deadzone as you can see it is see at all 1's ATM.

KB

Attached Files Capture33.JPGProMicro PinOut.jpgTLE_5010_arduino_pro_micro.jpg
Last edited by Kbird; 10/12/17 05:37 AM.

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#4384496 - 10/12/17 06:10 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Kb1rd1]  
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Originally Posted by Kbird

I am no Electronics expert but is sounds like you are grounding something out , ie you have your wires flipped on the TLE's or have a solder bridge or something of that nature. What kind of plug are you talking about? I am assuming by Multi you mean a DMM and you are testing for Continuity on each wire?

The TLE5010 needs a Precision of 12 set in MMjoy and AFAIK you don't need the magnet offset box checked. You do need to run a MMjoy calibration on them too via the calibrate helper button, bottom left.Use saved calibration not auto calibration for TLE5011.

As you can see in the pic below I also have filter set at 12 which may or may not be needed as I am still playing around with mine as I have time , am also playing with the deadzone as you can see it is see at all 1's ATM.

KB


Thanks KB
I will try a few things.
The 3rd pic you posted (by someone else) shows MISO at B2 which is where I started. Now changed to B3.

The plugs I am using are below. I do not like them or the ribbon cable and will be changing but just have not found anything I feel fits right not many good electronics around here.

Also below is pic of rudders. Still got some temporary pieces on that will change. Also I need to take some weight out of them eventually. But they are really a 1st try.

Because the wires from the sensors (pic of arrangement included) are so fine and the brake sensors are on the moving arms I am concerned that they make break over time with movement. Hense I am trying to use a plug arrangement from brake to the base. I figure it will be much easier to replace a patch type cord them getting new sensors from overseas.


Attached Files 20171012_154925 Resize.jpg20170924_153314 Resize.jpg20171001_160648 REsize.jpg
Last edited by Barra; 10/12/17 06:14 AM.
#4384497 - 10/12/17 06:51 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Barra]  
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You have Pro Micros not Micros correct ?

If you look at the second image MISO is Pin 14 but it is B3 on ALL of MegaMozg Pins outs......B2 is MOSI

The 3rd image was posted when I was having trouble with my TLE5010's , I had not noticed the , what I assume is a mistake now? I think it was about page 123 I was doing my TLE5010's...... maybe more info after that as I worked things out with mine...

Did you look at my Thread and the pics of my CH Propedals and how they are wired for ideas?
http://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324054/1


This is from earlier in the thread too:

"B6" for TLE5010-GEN - this pin are shared for all TLE5010/5011 sensors.
"B3" for SPI-MISO - this pin are shared for all "SPI" sensors (TLE5010/5011/kma200/mcp3201-3208).
"B1" for SPI-SCK - this pin are shared for all "SPI" sensors (TLE5010/5011/kma200/mcp3201-3208).
"SPI-CS" - you can connect as you like, and where you connect CS-pin need to setup at configurator. this pin are individual to sensor. (F4 & F5 - just a sample).

also additional data line "SPI-MOSI" shared for "SPI" sensors mcp3202-3208 .if you did not use IC MCP3202-3208 you do not need pin SPI-MOSI and you can use this pin for button matrix or like CS for TLE5011 and so on...


Read more: http://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4101926#ixzz4Y7Yf4dVU



Attached Files Pins_Arduino [promicro]_Axis Pins.png
Last edited by Kbird; 10/12/17 06:55 AM.

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#4384500 - 10/12/17 07:18 AM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Sokol1]  
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Yep Pro Micro

and not have not looked at your CH Propedals. Will check it out.

Ok I now am confused. Is B3 (MISO) the 2nd bottom (right side) or the 3rd bottom. There seems to be conflicting info.

See
http://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.p...uild-your-own-usb-controller#Post3914928 - This reflects 3rd pic from your post but not exactly the situation for the 2nd pic.

The only consistent theme between them all is that they indicate that MISO is no 14 pin but sometimes referred to as B2 or B3. This is important as you need to set in software.

I actually had it on pin 14 but then changed it to pin 16 as I have generally gone by the pin diagram linked on 1st page of this thread..

I will change back to pin 14?

#4384562 - 10/12/17 03:21 PM Re: MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Build your own USB controller [Re: Barra]  
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Originally Posted by Barra
Yep Pro Micro

and not have not looked at your CH Propedals. Will check it out.

Ok I now am confused. Is B3 (MISO) the 2nd bottom (right side) or the 3rd bottom. There seems to be conflicting info.

See
http://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.p...uild-your-own-usb-controller#Post3914928 - This reflects 3rd pic from your post but not exactly the situation for the 2nd pic.

The only consistent theme between them all is that they indicate that MISO is no 14 pin but sometimes referred to as B2 or B3. This is important as you need to set in software.

I actually had it on pin 14 but then changed it to pin 16 as I have generally gone by the pin diagram linked on 1st page of this thread..

I will change back to pin 14?


MISO is 3rd from bottom on RH side in all the Pinouts I have as well as the MMjoy one, and is B3 on all the MMjoy docs I have seen... see the Wiki ...linked below....

Per the 2nd image above Pin16 is MOSI not MISO..... also see other PinOut I have below , I also found another Image I have that has Pin14 as B2 but it is not clear if that is a MMjoy2 layout, ( it has something called EIXOS?? labelled on it) so I won't post it either since the official pinout below and second image above agrees with the MMjoy (MegaMozg's) Pinouts on the Wiki and posted just above.

The MISO vs MOSI is more important than the B3 or B3 designation I think . The SPI Pins are how the Arduino handles data in and data out , ( (MISO)Master In Slave Out and (MOSI) Master Out Slave In ) and as I was using a Leonardo I didn't even notice the B2/B3 designation on that Yellow Image, I just wired for MISO which is B3 on all the Images I have for the Leonardo and on the MMjoy Wiki Here :

https://github.com/MMjoy/mmjoy_en/wiki

My Pedals I just rewired and made USB , and connect them to my TQS via a gameport connector/cable , nothing special but I thought you might see how the wiring was done originally for the toe brakes. Never was that fond of the CH pedals but I have ended up with 2 pairs of them as part of a deal for a 2nd FLCS and TQS, but was thinking I may convert the 2nd pair to something witth a wider stance etc when I have time at some point.

KB


Attached Files
Last edited by Kbird; 10/12/17 03:27 PM.

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