..."but the button is like always press."

This behavior is common to all press buttons, stay ON until release the button - or axis in case.

For example using a joy HAT (that is 4 micro switches), if you move the HAT for left the left corner button is ON until release the HAT.

big throttle, first steps:

If I remember correctly is not need install COM port for Teensy, as is need for PRO Micro.

But you could write the firmware?

BTW - My Teensy 2.0 has ATMEGA32U4 mc, see in the picture (in il-2).

Troll
you are need a "Teensy Loader Application" from here https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/index.html

Maybe:


how do you print screen

I don't know what is Row and Columns in your PCB, but if are like in the above sketch the encoder are connected to two different Columns.
In this positions reserved for encoder place thee diode inverted, pointed to encoder pins.

Or use a wire bridge (bold black line) and solder diodes in encoder pins with strip pointed for pins (as drawn).

1 Row is common for both encoder connections, and can be common for other encoders.

Hi Everyone.
And a big thanks to Mega_Mozg for making MMJOY it's brilliant!!
But i could do with some help, I have gone through the all the 72 pages of posts a few times and have the Images of the Pro Microboard people have posted but don't understand where to connect the TEL5011 to the Pro Micro board, I have got buttons and Potentiometers to work ok but need some help with what goes where with the Hall sensor.
Here is an image of the PCB I had made and soldered up (the PCB was made by http://www.seeedstudio.com £6 for 10!).
Any help would be much appreciated.
Pete.

Hi Troll. PERFECT!!
Thanks so much for taking the time to reply It Works!
I can't believe i made something that works Haha I owe you a drink!
I moved the MISO (DAT) and SCK and set the MMJOY2 to use D4 and BINGO!! :-)
I don't know what MISO, MOSI or SPI mean which was my problem probably.
May I ask one more question regarding adding another sensor for the Y AXIS.
GND and VCC(5v) is ok I understand this.
B6 Shared for all TLE5010/11 Sensors so I understand.
CS goes to go to D7 for example (with D4 for the X axis)
B3 share with X axis?
B1 share with X axis also?.

Thanks in advance.
Pete.

Thanks Troll.
I will make another one PCB up and try.
I have to mount the one I have done now as i'm only waving a Diametricall magnet in front of the sensor by hand.
I will let you know if it works.
Thanks once again!.

Pete.

WOW, Peter this is greatest egoism level?(nothing about Infenion TLE5010 and MMJOY project)
also TLE5010/TLE5011 is not "hall" sensor, read about "Giant Magneto Resistance"...

Mega_mozg do you have schematics for 4021 shift registers?

No, I use "74HC165".

Hi i donwload the last version of mmjoy2. In "axis assignment" there is no throttle, rudder, etc. I understand that rotary axis (rX, rY or RZ) cant be used like thats. true?

And when use a simple pot. dont work fine. star in the middle and when up. fill the level bar and back to the start and fill to the middle.

Thanks

Ok, do you have schematics for 74hc165? If you have can you please post it?

Thank you!

Sorry Mega_Mozg_13!
On the next board i will put credits to you and MMJOY2 on the PCB etc sorry if anyone took offence that it's not there!.
I was in a hurried excited state on making this! It's not egoism I was watching a youtube tutorial on how to design a pcb and just followed this guy who put his name and revision number on his pcb and thought that was a good idea!
I would share the drawing for the board board design if anyone wants it? (needs some work to make it better)

Pete.

UKPete

You can eliminate the resistors R1 to R4 in TLE5010/11 PCB, see there:

http://SimHQ.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4239992/Re:_MMJoy/MMjoy2_-_Build_your_#Post4239992

For conveniente leave R5, if not make a support board for MMjoy.

Hey guys,
I've been reading for a couple of hours this post and haven't seen anything like a list of components needed.

Would any of you be able to put a full list of components of what you need to for example create a 6 axis (yaw, pitch, roll, throttle, mix, propeller pitch) and then something like 32 buttons.

At the moment I have the following list:

-Arduino Micro

-Breadboards for prototype
-Cables for prototype

-32 switches
-Shift Register IC 74HC165 How many?

-6 Hall sensors (What type)
-6 External ADC MCP3208 One for each axis?

You can eliminate diodes if workng with shift registers. Diodes are only for button matrix. What exactly are you making, any drawings? What sort of mechanism?

I am working on shift register PCB, I'll upload it on OSH park where you can make pro PCB cheaply. You need a sensor for each axis, hall or potentiometer or similar.

Thanks.

Well, I am thinking of doing a full joystick setup.
The column stick, rudder, engine controls and then a pletora of buttons and switches for a WW2 plane. Therefore nothing extra fancy is needed.

I have found that Allegro A1302 can be used for the Joystick Axis.

Use this only for test, for final assembly make a PCB - order online or DIY.



Each 74HC165 handle 8 buttons, so you need four (no limit in numbers).



Honeywell SS495A-1 or Allegro A1324, they are more sensitive.

A1302 work but require almost 180 degrees of magnet turn, what will limit the axis resolution.
Movement in joystick gimbal is tipycally 20~25 degrees.

But instead HALL use Magneto Resistor sensor TLE5011, more easy to setup.



You need MCP3208 (12 bits) for axis that plan use above 10 bits - ATMEGA32u4 native ADC resolution - typically for X, Y, rudder axes. IMO - Are much hype about need of big resolutions, although this help to deal with axis movement limitation, e.g. use 14 bits for reach practical 10/12 bits.

Each MCP3208 has 8 inputs. So one fill you needs.

If use TLE5010/11 MPC3208 is not need, this sensor has internal (14 bits) ADC.