Been making it for months - taking my time. It's eventually ready to be painted.

It's a Tamiya 1:48

I have to say, I'm very impressed with the quality of the kit and may well be alternating between Tamiya and Hasagawa

Very cool! I also like Tamiya. I build a lot of Soviet 1/48, so I often have to go to other manufacturers and when I do, I really miss that "falls together" quality of Tamiya models.

Thank you.

Tamiya is a nice "fit together" model - and as I said, Hasagawa are another make that seems complete.

Looking pretty nice.


Wheels

Nice...now what should I spend my Euro millions on ...
(If/When I win!!)

Drop dead georgous!

Nice!

Well - I'm filled with trepidation now.

Someone mentioned masking and sanding the joins (which never occurred to me) and then I found a website (Hyperscale) that shows some incredible paint jobs on models...several of which I have and whilst I wouldn't expect my paint jobs to turn out like theirs, I am now very disappointed with my work :-(

These are photos of an Academy Ju87 (the top images of each pair are Chris Wauchop's work I found at Hyperscale - THEY ARE NOT MINE! - the top one of each pair is Chris Wauchop's and next images of each pair are mine (mine are the crap looking ones!)- and to think I was quite pleased with the result on my version!

*edited above to be clear. I don't want people thinking I'm taking images of their work and pretending it's mine









I mean - a whole different league. I just asked my wife if I could look at getting a small compressor and airbrush set and she said "No - that's nerdy!" - mmm. Support for ones hobby is always welcome. To be fair though, even I'm not sure I would have the patience to go to anywhere near the lengths that these people go to. I have shaky hands and not great eyesight which makes detail stuff quite difficult.

Anyway - if anyone has good tips or knows a website with good tips for making and painting, I'd be very interested - I'd love to find out some techniques - especially for brush painting as it seems unlikely I'd ever go to spray painting - though I do love the effect.

Hi Billy,
The Mosquito is looking neat and tidy so far, and the figures look great. Don't be disheartened by other's builds. You're on a learning curve like everyone else, and at times it incredibly steep, others almost like freewheeling downhill!

If you can wangle an airbrush you'll have access to a new library of techniques that will help you improve no end, but you can achieve great results with brushes alone.

I've found massive amounts of help, encouragement and inspiration over at [url=www.britmodeller.co.uk]Britmodeller[/url]. If you don't mind paying a small fee then Flory Models has dozens of hours of video builds in which you can see the techniques being demonstrated. (I think there is one of that Tamiya Mosquito in fact.)

I use the same username as here over at both, so say 'Hi' if you do join up.

Have fun!

Gareth

Thanks goon.

I wonder if you know one thing I'm interested in finding out for the Mossie...someone mentioned Sludge painting for doing the panel joins. It's basically (in case you don't know) using a watered down water based acrylic and going over the lines and then wiping down with a wet cloth to remove the excess, leaving a nice dark line where the panels meet.

But they mentioned after painting your aircraft you seal it with a clear product. Do you know what I should use? IS it a varnish? Would that not give a terrible shiny look? Someone mentioned some sort of kitchen floor cleaner or something...how would that work?

Thanks

Oh - and I will be all over that website soon. Thanks for the link

Kitchen floor cleaner will be Johnson's 'Klear' which is (I think) an acrylic varnish. It's very hard wearing and dries very quickly. They recently changed the formula, but I THINK it behaves the same. I'm still on a bottle of the old stuff so haven't tried it yet.

A clear, glossy varnish is used to give a good surface for the decals to adhere to, to prevent 'silvering'. So, if I can, I paint gloss colours. If not, I seal the paint and make a glossy surface with Klear (you could use any gloss varnish really, but as I said, Klear dries very quickly and is hard wearing. It also self levels so is easy to apply by brush.) Once there is a nice gloss surface I decal, sometimes seal again with gloss, and then weather with Flory Models washes. You really need a gloss surface for this as they key in to matt and won't wipe off.

There are other ways of weathring and panel washing, but Flory Models stuff is great as if you don't get the result you want it will easily come off again with just water.

Brilliant. Thanks alot.

I can't wait to try this "new" technique out.

Billy - I know what you mean. I read several modelers' magazines and just when I think I'm getting halfway decent, I look at the pictures in there and feel like a total amateur. But I have to just ask myself if the model I'm working on is better than the last one. As long as I'm getting better, then it doesn't matter if I'm at world-class levels yet. Each time I try some technique I haven't tried before and most of the time it comes out pretty good. Most of my mistakes come through impatience and rushing. My dad always says "I can't build models, I don't have the patience" and I tell him "I don't either but it teaches me patience".

Anyway, I'd suggest not getting too hung up on your work vs. others', but concentrate on how much you've been improving. Besides, even though I fret over how this or that part doesn't look as good as it should, you know who sees my models down in my basement? People who don't even know what country the plane is from, much less whether this shade of interior grey is correct or not It's all about having fun in the process.

I'm working on recreating my spitfire picture and in this build I'm doing these for the first time:
-Painting figures (and "Frankensteining" them from various different figure models)
-Grass on a base
-Opening panels (and scratchbuilding a replacement)
-Using liquid mask on canopies
-Airbrushing with blu-tack masks
-Painting markings (as opposed to decals)

Lots to learn!

Someone mentioned to me about a process called Sludge Washing - using watered down arcrylic paint and (after coating the aircraft in Klear) going over the lines on the aircraft and then cleaning excess off with water.

I tried it and some came off, but the majority did not.

Can someone explain what I may have done wrong here please? Did I not water it down enough? Did I not prep the model enough before?

Hi Billy,
I've never done that technique with Acrylics. I normally use Flory Models weathering washes.

I have highlighted panels with very thin oil paints, but you need a very glossy finish, and I find I have to get the excess off very quickly or it stains.

Give the Flory Models stuff a try, it's very good stuff, and easy to remove if it goes wrong. (Again, needs a glossy finish. Klear may not provide enough of a gloss with one coat, I usually end up doing about 3 thin ones.)

Awesome models, very detailed.



Bullet

Thanks Goon - I've gone and ordered some of the wash

Final coats of Medium Sea Grey (underside) and Ocean Grey (top) are applied.

I've got the camo Dark Green (RAF) to put on and by that time I'll have my reading glasses so I can attempt the canopy and I should have my weather wash to apply - though I may not on this one - I'll see.

Really Nice work

Thank you carrick58.

First coat of Dark Green (RAF) added

You are showing great skill in building, I hope you can get an airbrush somewhere as it's tons easier to paint with.

Thanks RSColonel - I plan to for Christmas....maybe :-)

Acrylics can be removed with water as long as the paint has not dried out. Once it's dry you can use acetone (most nail polish removers contain that) to remove the paint - but if your coating is acrylic-based that will also be removed so be careful.

I also prefer oil paints as they're a bit transparent and give IMHO a more natural finish. However you can't use oil paint over acrylics - the oils are aggressive and will over time attack the base coat.

Thanks Legend - but I'm going to throw that one and do a rebuild.

I'm also going to give acrylics a go - people seem to prefer them to enamel and in truth I only used enamel because it's what I remember using when I was a kid and making models with my dad - I thought that's all there was.

Good luck, and let us know the result!

Enamel and oil paints are basically the same - but enamels contain more oil/resin to make them more liquid. Acrylics can be great paints but painting large areas with a brush is difficult as they dry very quickly. Like RSColonel said, maybe it's an idea to try to get an airbrush for applying the paint.

Bill, look at tutorials on youtube for warhammer models (yes warhammer the tabletop gaming stuff). They describe weathering pretty well and in particular washing and best of all it all applies to modelling in general so dont limit yourself to just aircrfat scale modeller sites.

What you really want is a touch of black paint in water and then wash on the model, the 'ink' will go to the recessed parts and end up drying in. Theres loads of techniques you can learn and many are really simple. If you can't get an airbrush yet look into 'washes' and 'dry brushing'. And tell the mrs you want an airbrush or your going to buy trainsim 2012. According to my mrs you dont get much nerdy that me sat there with a cuppa tea enjoying a virtual loco run into London

Thx Lewis - I have watched some videos of weathering using the weather wash from Flory Models - but I'll look at some Warhammer ones too

I used the can paints for years. Albeit, there is a lot of over-spray and they cant beat an Airbrush. Speaking of which there are cheap models of airbrushes that use Cans of Air to run. ( they can be a Learning Tool till u can afford a good brush and compressor to run it.)

Can I ask about the quality of can fed airburshes? I'm sure I've read the feed of air isn't regular enough to give a decent finish

Also - if you buy an airbrush with tinned propellant, I presume the airbrush and acilleries can be used when you move to a compressor?

Can I ask some questions please - for all you airbrush boys out there...

The wife isn't going to give in yet for an airbrush/compressor kit - so I'm thinking about buying it piecemeal...so getting an airbrush now and then getting a compressor later in the year.

So - questions -
1. If I bought this Gravity High Precision Dual Action Airbrush, would I be able to use it with tins of propellant until I got a compressor?
2. How do I clean them? I guess with white spirits for enamel and water(?) for acrylic?
3. How do you the top feeder bowl?
4. If it does work with tins of air, would the brush come with a connector to a tin, or do the tins come with adapters or would I have to buy something else to get it to work with a tin of air?

Ta

Ready for the decals




I'm really unsure what to do about the canopy. I paint with brushes. I don't seem to have a steady enough hand to paint the canopy. At the same time, I haven't ever used masking tape and have no idea how I would be able to do that anyway...so I may well be stuck with leaving the canopy clear.

Get this:

http://www.eduard.com/store/Eduard/Masks/Aircraft/1-48/Mosquito-Mk-IV-1-48.html?cur=2

And this:

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tam/tam86509.htm

And you will have a A+ canopy

Decals on

Next stage is cover with clear then use my weathering solution...that may screw it up...but I need to practice - and it's not like I've got alot of space fr models anyway - so if it ends up in the bin, it just makes room for others :-)

This is the first model EVER that I have put all required decals on...I always found them too fiddly and thought "what the hell...they're so small no-one will notice"...but every decal that should be on this IS on this

Thanks Godzilla - but that is US...and I can't find any in the UK.

I'll leave the canopy for now. If I do it freehand, I'll screw it up

Check again my friend, you actually have one of the biggest online hobby shops located right in the UK.
http://www.hannants.co.uk/
http://www.hannants.co.uk/product/EDEX029
http://www.hannants.co.uk/product/TAAS30

I actually wanted to give you these links in my first reply since I saw you were in the UK but I couldn't remember how to spell Hannants to do a Google search

mmm....Thanks Godzilla.

I actually have Hannants in my favourites, but I googled and didn't see a shop with any in stock. Sometimes I rely too much on Google

Ordered - with a knife

Your Welcome BR, you love the Eduard paint mask. A little $$ but oh so much easier and faster then using the Tamiya kubuki tape and cutting method. Of all the time and effort that goes into a model that I enjoy (building/detailing/painting/weathering/decals) the only part I really didn't look forward too was painting canopy frames

so - is sticking these little bits easy? It looks like it will be very tricky

Billy,
if you are like me and have never used acrylics.. and are stuck in your ways with enamels, there is a product out there for when you dislike your paint scheme!
Theres stuff out there called modelstrip, it will strip off enamel paint back to the plastic and I use it all the time... I have now started using airbrushes, so for some of those muck ups I did with a brush and the paint is on nice and thick I use the modelstrip to get it back to the plastic. Dont know how it reacts to clear parts, but i will be finding out shortly.. got an Italeri V-22 to sort out!
Hannants stock the stuff, sometimes you really have to dig on the hannants website to find what you are looking for.

Thanks Valleyboy. I'll keep that in mind.

Yeah - the Hannants website has lots and lots of gear - unfortunately finding stuff can take AGES!

I will be moving to an airbursh soon. I persuaded my wife that buying it in two parts (air bursh first and compressor some other time) was the best option.

So...for anyone who's in the know, I'd appreciate advice on a half decent airbrush/tins of air (kits?) that I can use with compressed air (tins of). I've got a maximum budget of around £30. I know it's not alot - but bearing in mind I told her the airbrush/compressor kit was around £80 - it's all I've got.

Thanks

Hi BR,
It's pretty easy, just follow the instructions and take your time. I wish that I could tell you more but since I have been building models for years so compared to cutting out my own masks switching to using Eduards paint masks was a snap.

As for airbrushes thats a little harder. Testors/Aztec is about the only company that I think makes airbrushes that use canned air, problem is these type of airbrushes are usually made for wide area coverage and are not well suited for intricate camo paterns. Also spray painting with these cans of air is tricky since the air pressure never stays constant (being able to regulate your air pressure up or down is one key component is getting a superb camo finish). What I would suggest is getting a good airbrush to start with and use a portable compressed air tank (like the one you would use to fill a car tire). Attach an air regulator to it and your good to go. Yes it's a little bit of a pain in the arse to keep running down to your locale gas station to refill the air tank but it way cheaper then buying those cans of compressed air (plus alot of gas stations still offer free air, well at least here in the US). Plus if you decide later to buy a better air supplier (like an air compressor) you won't have to buy another airbrush to use on it (always think down the road)

Give me some ime, and I will post a link for airbrushes / compressors. I bought two cheap airbrushes (20 - 30 quid each) which if they were a brand name would be 3 to 4 times the cost! You don't have to start off with the most expensive thing you can buy, I started off with the canned air stuff like you, Revell make a few canned air powered airbrushes, but for the same cost as that Revell one I got two other airbrushes which are much better functional wise.. I will drag up the info and post, some other members on here have also used the same site as well in the past...

Thanks Valleyboy

I liked the look of this one http://www.amazon.co.uk/Airbrush-BD-130/...228&sr=8-1, but was unsure
a) if it would work with canned air
b) if it did, what I would have to buy (canned air, converter, regulator, hose?)

Godzilla - I simply cannot move to a compressor at the moment. It's just not an option for me. So if I can get a brush (like the one above) and it works with tinned air, then that is the best of both worlds for me. On top of that, at £6-£10 a tin of air, I could point out to the wife that I'd be better with a compressor sooner rather than later...but I need to get an airbursh in the house...if I push the compressor AND airbrush, they'll both be waiting until Christmas!

I had one of the Testors air brush and it worked on can air. The air hose was part of the airbrush assy. It did spray in wide patterns but was ok for camo jobs. Used in a combo of hand painted items , the completed job looks nice and doesn't have the over sprayed look that can paints have to them. ( thickness). Also a wider choice of paints at a lesser price. Speaking of price, U could change scales.
for example 1/32 to 1/48 or 1/72. Or a Combo. Large items ( aircraft bombers) use 1/72 small (Fighters) 1/48 scale. The same applies ships of AFV's. Hope this helps.

Thx Carrick - I already stick to those scales...1/48 for fighters/fighter/bombers and 1:72 for bombers.

The 1:72s I have were very early on...I quickly decided to go to 1:48 for fighters

Kudos, 1/48 is great for fighters besides 1/72 is really hard to work in WWI models. Most model shops have canned airbrushes and can answer questions . The Squadron.Com had a downloadable catalog and I think a few airbrushes ( gives an Idea of types and prices) Building models is really a nice Hobby an d not that expensive.

Okay I understand, but if you really want to get an air compressor down the line just make sure when you make that final sales pitch to the boss that you think of many other household uses for a air compressor other then "But honey it's cheaper then constantly buying canned air to paint model kits". Believe me even going as far as not even mentioning it's usefullness in painting model kits will probably get it into your hands quicker

That airbrush you linked reminds me of the Badger 150 airbrush I had when I started out, if it's anything like a Badger you will get many years of good service from it. One thing to keep in mind the BD-130 appears to be a double action airbrush, thats not a bad thing because if you stick with building models this is the type of airbrush you will want. But double action airbrushes are a little tricker to use then single action airbrushes so have some of scrap plastic kits to experiment on before you use this airbrush on a pricey Tamiya kit.

But I still want to show you what I was talking about:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GQ6...;pf_rd_i=507846

(the 10 gallon tank is a few $$$ more)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JW...;pf_rd_i=507846

These items probably can be found cheaper at your local mom and pop hardware store, but even if you got it at a big chain store it should still be cheaper then buying several cans of air. Plus after you get your dedictated air compressor you can always use the air regulator as a back-up and covert the air tank back to it's original configuration for portable use.

Nice airbrush, double-action and 0.3 nozzle are perfect for what you want to do.

You'll need around 2Bar pressure to run that thing, so for any canned air reserve you want a pressure regulator that can do that. Others have posted some great advice here already.

My word of warning is - if you want to airbrush, consider moving to water-soluble acrylics. It's a ton easier to work with IMHO, especially if you add a bit 70% pure alcohol to the mixing.

I'm by far not an airbrush expert but I remember in the past when my Dad was doing the brushing and I did the watching, any enamel or normal acrylic was a #%&*$# to thin properly. When I did some stuff myself last year, the water-based acrylics and alcohol made it unbelieable easy.

I second what Col says but spend the money on a good double action airbrush, one with a jar not a hopper. You might consider that canned air will be inconsistent pressure-wise and can frost up if used for long strokes, causing chunking and water droplets depending on humidity. Harbor Freight has compressors cheap here and a good airbrush can be had for about $30. USD

Acrylic ( water based) are great. If can air is your choice, use shot strokes. It works, Have fun. I ended up with a double action brush and a compressor that doesn't have a regulator . It uses a pivot turning screw to regulate the air flow. I havent used it that much ( after summer maybe). But I do like the arrangement. Picked it up for 18.00 dollars 5 yrs ago. One thing always clean ur brush just run a couple of hoppers thru it after use.

http://www.airbrush-pro.co.uk/

I bought my compressor and 2 airbrushes from here, not a bad thing to say about either, as for buying the same type of airbrush from a brand manufacturer would have cost me a lot more!

I see the BD-130 is in there. Just wondering if the BD-130 will work with canned air....for the time being. Maybe I'll contact them and ask.

Thanks

They work with canned air... It's how i started off before getting a compressor.. You will need an adapter though to fit on to the airbrush. It takes the smaller canned air pipe on one end and you just replace the adapter on there.. Ones that come on the air brush are quick release types you wont use... Once you get a compressor and hoze, that hoze just screws straight on to the airbrush... No adapter required.

Forgot to say, the prices are less VAT.. So add 20% to those prices... They add it at check out

Thanks valleyboy.

But I could do with a little more clearing up before I buy.

I work in IT and we buy tinned air to blow crap out the desktops...but I'm presuming your "normal" tinned air isn't the right sort or have the right connection.

So I see badger do 750ml of tinned air - ok - so I guess that's the stuff to buy...and the brush - the BD-130. Do you know what I'm looking for other than that? Obviously that website you need a particular hose - but that's for connecting to a compressor - and I'll probably pick that up anyway so I'm ready for a compressor - but I mean hose and connection for tinned air...I don't know what to even search for - and even if I did, I wouldn't know if the connections are standard or whether there's a certain make I need.

So - any ideas on
1. Are the hose connectors on airbrushes pretty standard? If not what one would I need to connect the BD-130 to a tin of air?
2. What do I have to look for in terms of a connector to connect a hose to my tinned air?

If you're all tired out with my questions, I can easily ask the wite I guess...but I have a feeling they may push me towards a compressor

I use to use the badger canned air, always ge tthe biggest cans you can get hold of... it caters for the drop off in pressure, as you will never be able to use a full can... you'll end up throwing it out the window if you try in frustration!

If you go into a model shop they should have the stuff you need, for canned air use you need a screw on regulator cap and the hose.. the hose is of very small diameter compared to one you would use with a compressor. You can buy small starter airbrush kits for about £15.. this will be a fairly low end airbrush but has the rest of the stuff you need.
Something like this:
http://www.hannants.co.uk/product/RV29666
You can get these as starter kits with compressed air cans as well, I had one of these to start off with and realised how bad I was at using an airbrush! But the hose and adapter are what you need. To use that with canned air and one of the airbrushes from the airbrush pro site you also need a small adapter, its called a 'Compressor Adapter for Badger Airbrush'. You take off the adapter on the airbrush itself.. take out the o-ring from the adapter you are taking off, and use it on the adapter you are putting on.

Cheers. Thanks for all the advice...but I think rather than rushing into this, I'm going to wait and get all the kit. It's probably Christmas...but I'll get it. That way I can get the gun I want, the compressor I need and the hose...not fussing. No worrying about whether a bit will fit or whether it won't...

Thanks again all.

I'll be posting some shots this weekend hopefully of my canopy painted (thanks for the heads up on the canopy masking for the Mosquito), weathered Mossie

After that, keep an eye out for my Academy 1:72 B-17. I've bought some decals for it and the canopy masking. It'll be hand painted - but what the hell. And I'm really rather pleased with my Mossie. By far the best I've churned out from my previous 6...and to think I was happy with each of them! Practice really does make perfect!

Thanks again for taking the time to answer my many questions.

No need to hand paint BR, if your doing a B-17E/F in USAAC markings Tamiya does make the 2 colors you need in aerosol cans since most B-17E/F's in USAAC service had no elaborate camo patterns (Testors also makes these colors in enamel based aerosol cans). If your doing a B-17G I highly recommend either Testors Model Master Metalizer Lacquer Aluminum Plate (Buffing) or Testors Silver Metallic Enamel spray aerosols. The Model Master Metalizer is real nice since it's buffable and by using a Q-tip you can buff some panels on the aircraft to a higher sheen giving a convincing NMF look. Only drawback with the Metalizer paint is you also have to buy the Metalizer Sealer to seal the paint, and it's pretty strong smelling when applying and drying since it's a lacquer based paint, so use proper caution (ie don't spray indoors and wear a paint mask). The Silver Metalic paint is enamel based so it's a little safer when spraying but I would still follow the same cautions. Both paints go on thin and will give an airbrushed look. If you are doing a RAAF bird you can still do a camo job if you pick up some Tamiya Kubuki Tape (it's the same stuff Eduard uses to make their canopy paint mask) to make the camo demarkation lines, it's the best masking tape I have ever used and have never experianced "bleed under" with this product.

Godzilla 1985 is point on about the early B-17s and can paints. U can also use the same aerosols ( O.D. Green and Aircraft Gray) to paint a wide verity of early USAAC aircraft of WWII P47 P 38 some P 51s B 26 B-24 and others with just the 2 aerosol colors. They were all painted those colors. I would add a Flat white aerosol paint to the top of the wings before spraying the O.D. Green that will give a faded ( Weathering) look. Touch up with smeared exhaust paint and Hand paint the rest. There's a brunch of U Tube Vids on the subject Just type in Model airplanes or Tanks ? If ur doing a Metal B-17 the Model Master or Tamiya Aerosols are hard to beat. I have used Bare Metal Foil in the past to cover the cracks where the Wings meet the Body and it worked well. ( can get expensive) Enjoy.

I'm a bit late, but I add a few drops of dishwashing liquid to my acrylic washes (and always over gloss). It helps it flow into panel lines.

It's amazing how many military aircraft or civilian aircraft for that matter can be painted with just canned aerosol paint. While airbrushing (when done right) gives the ultimate finish and effects, good basic finishes can be achieved with aerosol paints. As carrick58 pointed out quite a few WW2 aircraft from different countries used a basic 2 color (upper/lower) camo pattern, USAAC, USN/Marines, Japanese, Russian just to name a few. Even British AC and some early war German AC tricolor camo's can be done well just by doing a good masking job. Plus the paint formula used by companies has changed greatly since I started modeling and aerosol paints for the most part now go on pretty thin and flow evenly. The only WW2 AC I feel that really do need an airbrush to get the perfect camo results are late WW2 German aircraft, they were very intricate as the war progressed. WW2 NMF on USAAC aircraft are just problematic to start with and results with airbrush or aerosol cans can vary wildly. I have seen NMF done with aerosols that I thought were done by airbrush and visa versa. Also a word of caution, if your B-17 is going to sport a NMF pay very close attention to seam lines and plastic blemishes before painting, NMF's tend to "pop out" these problems 10X more then camo paint jobs.

Sorry - what is NMF?

I have a chrome/aluminium colour I'll be using and some olive drab. I'm not really one for historical accuracy when modelling. I like a camo and a sign set and I use it. I know alot of proper modellers would have kittens hearing that - and I may one day start looking into historical accuracy - wanting to re-create a particular aircraft - but not right now.

Sorry BR, NMF = Natural Metal Finish


P.S. As far as historical accuracy in camo patterns and markings I'm definately not a rivit nazi Now if you entering your work in a contest at a model show thats a totally different animal and you might have to back-up your project with proof if questioned by the judges. Sometimes the debate about whats correct and incorrect can get really anal, just check out any discussion about the use of the color Amerigo on early Japanese A6m2 Zero's or the interior color Aotake in WW2 Japanese aircraft same with anything dealing with WW1 AC colors and markings.
Cheers

Well - the Eduardo Cockpit Mask for the Mossie was - erm - used with mixed success.

Not blaming the mask at all - it was fiddly for me to put on and I had to "re-seat" bits several times to get what I think was the right place. Turns out it wasn't in some cases. Also, I had no idea how to actually do the front to get it to fit - in the end, it's certainly better than my hand painted attempt - but the report card would say "could do better".

Still - a first try.

As you can see from the transfers on the wings, some of my Klear got under them. They look a bit of a mess too. Pity. Anyway - I'll be looking to test my Dark Dirt weathering solution on this one - and try and get some practice with it. No idea how it's going to act with the decals though...we'll see. I may have to pull those transfers at the front off.

That's a terminal case of "silvering" on those 'keep off' decals. The cause is two-fold, if I'm following this correctly... A less than smooth surface on which the decal was applied, and the resulting 'seepage' of the next coat of clear under the decals really causing a mess.

Decals *love* flat and smooth surfaces. They detest rounded, bumpy, textured surfaces... like most model aircraft skins. Once your color coats of paint are applied and thoroughly dried, a coat or three of clear floor polish (aka Future, most old timers prefer the older, less tree-hugger friendly mix) will help a lot. Once that is thoroughly dry, use clean filtered water for your decals (tap water can be full of stuff that dries as a solid) and if necessary use decal setting solution. Be careful with the setting solutions, as they are intended to make the decal film very flimsy. And very weak. Your decals should be snug all the way around, including over bumps and corners. Let the decals dry thoroughly, then carefully clean them of any left-over residue before applying a sealant coat of Future. After all that, your decals should be firmly fixed in place and ready for weathering.

And, if you're really in it for the money and glory ... well, the glory anyway, you can do away with the decals that are more clear area than color such as those red lines marking the 'do not step' areas. Carefully hand-paint or mask and airbrush the red lines, and salvage only the "keep off" wording as small decals to add.

Edit: Re Eduard masks... they are wonderful, and excruciatingly frustrating. I have about a 50/50 success rate with them on the few models I've tried them on.

One thing regarding air brushes: I didn't catch if you'd gotten a compressor or not. If not, I have an alternative... A supremely quiet one. Go to your local welding supply store and enquire about purchasing or leasing a carbon dioxide bottle. I'd recommend the 20 pound size, it's large enough to contain quite a lot of CO2 and is just small enough to carry around as needed. You will need a CO2 regulator, then whatever fittings and hoses to fit your air brush hose to the regulator. Once it's all set, you've got a quiet air brush set that will have no moisture content. Another, even more friendly gas to consider would be compressed nitrogen. I have't used nitrogen myself, but I am checking on it. And it's fairly inexpensive... I can lease a large compressed cylinder for $150 for five years... and one 125 cubic foot cylinder would provide enough gas to run an air brush non-stop for a LONG time, and still be easily maneuvered into and out of the house or garage.

Thanks for the tip on the CO2.

As for Eduardo - I'm happy to put it down to two things at the moment...1) the canopy was already on the model, making it difficult to fit precisely and 2) Patience - I hadn't really thought it would be so fiddly. With my B-17 I will employ patience, better lighting AND the glass sections are not on the model yet, so hopefully will be easier to fit.

The decals - bang on with what happened. The model is designed to be bumpy there and I'm not sure what they thought those particular transfers were going to do...they were never going to fit snuggly because of the model underneath.

I'm not sure if I'm going to do any weathering yet - if I do, then I can imagine the decals will only get worse.

This is the finished article - before weathering.

Another thing to consider BR (at lest I didn't see it mentioned in the thread) is using a decal setting solution on decals before applying the final coat of clear (There are several brands that work well). The decal setting solution kind of melts the decal allowing it to conform over surfaces (like rivits, raised panel line etc) once it's dry it gives a convincing painted on look. But WWSandMan is spot on about the paint finish, the smoother the better. It's just about impossible to achive that kind of finish by brushing. Sorry about the Eduard Mask problems, didn't realize you had the canopy glued to the Mossie. But over all a very good job for your first kit. Building models is always an ongoing learning process, I have been in this hobby for years and i'm still learning new technic's

Canopy painting u might try and experiment. (Before gluing on the canopy)

1. Use toothpicks to paint the panel lines.
2. Paint the panel lines with a small brush then wait till the paint drys. Run a cocktail stick of toothpick along the panels to remove the excess paint ( I ended up scratching the plastic).
3. Cover the canopy with tape ( masking tape in wide sizes.) Then use an Xacto blade to cut the tape on each side of the panel lines
When complete pull off the strands of tape on top of the panel lines, and spray paint. When dry , remove the rest of the tape that formed the windows of the canopy. ( basically U make ur own mask)

Your Mossie Kit looks nice.

I've following this thread with a lot of interest. The Mossie is looking great now!

billyriley, it looks like you're in a very similar place to me about eight years ago when I decided to get back into modelling and discovered there was more to it that Liquid Poly and a dozen tins of sealed up Humbrol

Cheap Badger 200 clone (I use one): http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/000511320
What's £20 to find out if you like airbrushing?
Just learn how to maintain it and keep it clean. Works fine with the Badger/Revell cans.
Hard edges (play-doh masks!)

Soft edges (freehand)


Paint, I can't recommend enough Hannant's Xtracrylix range. They are water-soluble and very forgiving (unlike say the Tamiya acrylics). No nasty organic solvents, but please still wear a mask or respirator to avoid breathing atomised plastic. They also come in standard military colours, so very easy to get a basic palette. Just thin them before spraying.

Microsol and Microset I use for decals. A bottle each of those, a clean brush or two to apply them and a pack of cotton buds to soak up excess will revolutionize your decal work.

I would suggest working on one new skill per model. Focus on construction (filler, seams, fit) for one model, on another cheap one slap the bits together in an afternoon and rip into it with the paints. When it's dry stick some spare decals on it for practice. With tricycle gear planes, don't forget some weight in the nose

It's easy to try and get everything perfect and get frustrated. This is supposed to be fun, after all

Thanks U-96.

There is a Machine Mart about 200m from my work. So I may pop down there one day soon and have a look. I had no idea they did things like that. I thought it was all building tools!

Billy,

Don't bother.

I just phoned them to check availibility (as stated on their website) and they don't have any in stock.

I just placed an order for one over the phone (7 to 10 days delivery).

Thought I'd save you a walk......


cheers,

Andy

ok - cheers.