I'm in the states, out here I can get one sheet of 4'x8' 1/2" Plywood for about $18. Don't think I really need 3/4" for structural support. Shouldn't I be able to get away with 1/2"?

I'll need at least 2 sheets based on 'fit size' in order to use whole pieces for each surface. If I place panels on all three outer surfaces (the two sides and back), I'll need 3 sheets. I will have some scrap left over though.



I could, but the piece the pedals rest on is designed to slide side to side and front to back, so that I can maintain a central seating position and still use the appropriate pedals, although I'm considering trashing that as I'm not sure it will work out as well as I would like.

I wouldn't use the sheets for structural support, hence the recommendation for timber. I would say timber for the legs and some horizontal braces for further support. As this will be holding your CRT and other stuff, I would rather over-engineer it for sturdiness than find out the hard way.

Unless I'm sorely mistaken, I think you can build your layout for way less than $100.

Where/How would you use the timber for support? How would you change the design? I'm trying to visualize how I would build this and still allow for the shelves, and the PVC Pivoting HOTAS support platforms.

Using this drawing that I found on Google Sketchup I am working on building my first pit. I have built two of these stands and they have built in shelving. I am working on a panel to go across the front area to mount my Cougar MFD's and my box from 68valu that he built for me will go one one side with the throttle on the other while I am center mounting my Warthog.

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=5b18e62072f69395ea1e14c9fffff94f

I am sure that using something similar you can get your shelving in place easily. I don't know what it cost me to build these two stands since I did it with left over wood from previous projects when we were remodeling the house but I can guess that it was less than $50 and the remaining wood for the panel and center mount projects will be less than $50 as well.

Also if you are really looking for a pivoting area for your stick and throttle I would suggest using wood with door hinges from a place like Lowes or Home Depot since they are cheap and you can get some that simply allow you to lock the platform in place then drop it down once you are finished.

I would make at least 4 vertical timbers for the legs, then at least 2 horizontal timbers that go from left-to-right and attach from the left leg to the right leg. Then put your MDF "tabletop" on top and screw it to your horizontal timbers. Done!

As for your shelving and HOTAS mount, that would depend on how exactly you want them. I would probably make 4 small L-shaped timber assemblies, screw it onto each leg with the vertical part of the "L" going towards the floor, then put the shelftop over the assemblies.

I'm not too sure about the HOTAS mount though. I have ideas how it could be done, but I prefer my HOTAS controls to be on a rock-solid platform. Even though your table is solid, the "hinge" part is the weak spot and I suspect any and all "play" will come from there. Why not just make two small "side tables" and put your HOTAS there?

I suspect your right about the play in the Hotas mounts and I would rather not have any either. The reason for not using a side table is I would like them to move 'out of the way' when not in use, hence the hinge so they can swing in and out of view when I'm not flying. Although some sort of pull out drawer might work as well. Hmmm. . .

Lupus I looked at building a sliding mount or at least putting lockable casters on the two that I have built for just that reason. I have room to build a full pit in my office if I want one so it was easy for me to go either way.

Two small side tables can easily be placed "in position," and moved out once you're done. I even built mine with a stabilizing brace to put in place once I set things up.

The thing is I have no place else to really put the side tables, Unless they will slide under the edge of my desks. And putting together a 'stabelizing brace' like I saw you use, isn't what I'm looking for. Although I did come up with something like two bi-fold doors attached to the inside of the desk where the shelf uprights are that were used to support a 'tray' that went across the top of my lap to hold the throttle and stick.

Might be easy enough to hide them under the table when not in use. In fact, unless you have a solid reason for having the shelves under the table, why not put the shelves on the smaller side tables? ie, your table is just a flat tabletop and then the legs, then you have the two side tables slide in/out on each side. The "top" of your side table will be your HOTAS mount surface (great to keep the TM WH joystick on elbow-level) then you have a bottom surface that will be your "shelf."

Just tossing ideas around.

If you're using Sketchup, might be a good idea to post some renders.